[Illustration: Tatting Shuttle.]
The needlework called Tatting in England, _Frivolité_ in French, and
_Frivolitäten_ in German, is a work which seems, from all accounts, to
have been in favour several generations ago. Modern ingenuity has
discovered some ways of improving on the original plan of tatting, which
was, indeed, rather a primitive sort of business as first practised. To
Mrs. Mee, one of our most accomplished _artistes_ in all matters
connected with the work-table, belongs, we believe, the introduction of
the plan of working from the reel instead of the shuttle. By this
alteration the advantage of the shuttle being constantly kept filled
with cotton was gained, and the necessity also obviated for frequently
joining the thread; and to Mdlle. Riego, equally distinguished in all
details appertaining to the employment of the needle, ladies are
indebted for an arrangement by which the same thread used in the making
of the pattern is used for fastening the work. The old plan only
provided for the working of the different portions which constituted the
pattern, and then these portions had to be sewn together with a needle
and thread. The ingenious workers on the Continent have also given much
attention of late to the art of tatting, and our instructions now
printed comprise what we consider the best mode of learning and doing
this exceedingly interesting and fashionable work.
[Illustration: Tatting Pin.]
Tatting differs entirely from crochet, and is composed of stitches
forming _knots_. It is intended as an imitation of point lace, and is
especially used for trimming under-linen, on account of its strength.
To make the stitches or knots a small instrument is used, called a
_shuttle_. This shuttle consists of two oval pieces, flat on one side
and convex on the other, and is made of wood or ivory.
The two oval pieces are joined together by a strong cross-piece. The
illustration shows the construction of the shuttle. These shuttles are
made in ivory, pearl, tortoiseshell inlaid with pearl, and silver; they
are also manufactured in coloured bone, black, red, and white. The best
to work with are the pearl for a white shuttle, and the inlaid
tortoiseshell for a black shuttle; the prices vary from sixpence to one
shilling and two-and-sixpence each. In selecting a shuttle be careful to
see that the ends close, as if dropped it soon becomes unthreaded, which
is very inconvenient. The cotton intended for the work is wound round
this shuttle, and the thickness of the cotton varies according to the
style of work. It is better to use the proper tatting cotton, because it
is stronger than the ordinary kinds; this is manufactured by Messrs.
Walter Evans and Co. for the purpose. Their Boar's Head Cotton is also
frequently used, and answers very well.
_Shuttles._
These are made in 3 sizes:--Finest, No. 1; No. 2, useful medium size;
No. 3, the largest.
_The Way to Hold the Hands._
Take the shuttle in the right hand, between the thumb and second finger,
and allow the forefinger to remain at liberty, and rest the under part
of the shuttle _between_ the second and third and _on_ the middle
finger. Place the thread round the three middle fingers of the left
hand, so as to form a loop, keeping the second and third fingers a
little apart, and bring the cotton again between the thumb and
forefinger, letting the end fall within the palm of the hand, while the
end of cotton which holds on to the shuttle passes over the thumb-nail.
_To Make a Stitch._
Keep the hands in the position above described; pass the shuttle at the
back, through the loop--that is, between the second and third fingers.
Take the end of the shuttle which comes out from the loop between the
forefinger and thumb of the right hand, and strain the cotton very
tightly towards the right. When the cotton is drawn through the loop,
this cotton must not be impeded by the fourth finger; it should, on the
contrary, slide over it, and be drawn tight. It should divide the loop
into two parts. After this withdraw the second left-hand finger, which
is _above_ the cotton, and pass it again under that cotton, so as to
draw up the loop. A _half-stitch_ is thus formed, and must be tightened
by being drawn closely to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand. For
the remaining half of the stitch keep the hands in the same position,
but, instead of letting the cotton fall over the thumb, pass this cotton
over the back of the hand; then let the shuttle fall between the second
and third fingers of the left hand, in front, and take it out again at
the back, strain the cotton very tightly, withdraw the second finger
from the loop, letting the cotton which is behind the hand sweep over
the fingers. When this is done, guide with the unoccupied fingers of the
left hand this second half-stitch up to the other, thus completing _one
stitch_.
_The Way to Make a Loop in Tatting._
When a certain number of stitches are made, very tightly draw in the
loop by straining the cotton until the first stitch touches the last,
and thus a loop is formed. During this process the stitches should be
held tightly between the forefinger and thumb.
_The Way to Make a Purl._
A _purl_ is a small loop of cotton often used as an edging in tatting,
as, for instance, round the outer edge of the ovals in tatted insertion
No. 2. The following is the easiest method of making a purl:--The
stitches are not made quite closely together at the place where a purl
is to be made; about one-sixth of an inch is left between each. This
space is left free until the loop is made by uniting the stitches; then
the small piece of cotton in the space bulges out between the stitches,
and forms the purl. If several are required a small space is left
between every two or three stitches, according to the desired number.
Care must be taken in that case that the small pieces of cotton left be
all of the same length, so that the purl may be perfectly even. The purl
can also be made thus: At the same time with the end of thread take the
tatting-pin or a very large darning needle or knitting needle in the
left hand, so that the point may come out farther than the row of
stitches; if then you wish to make a purl, throw the cotton on the pin
before making the stitch; then fasten this stitch, and push it at once
close to the preceding; the pin with the cotton should come above the
stitches. Do not take out the pin before all the purl and all the
stitches are completed and joined together.
_Joining the Work._
Place the tatting-pin in the loop that is to be joined, and with the
hook draw the thread of the loop--that is, round the hand through
it--pass the shuttle through this loop, and draw it up tightly close to
the stitches.
A "straight" or double thread is used to join various parts of the work,
and forms very beautiful patterns. Without the straight thread we
should be unable to imitate point lace patterns, or, indeed, to execute
any designs but those composed of circles, ovals, &c. To use this
straight thread 2 shuttles are required; they should be of different
colours. Sometimes one end of thread is left attached to the reel
instead of using the second shuttle. In commencing a loop the straight
thread is held between the second and third fingers of the left hand,
about 2 or 3 inches from the work; the other shuttle is held as usual in
the right hand, and the stitches and purls worked with it upon the
foundation of the straight thread of the second shuttle.
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