Without the slightest degree of reluctance we departed from Monte
Hermosa, on a beautiful morning, (the 8th inst.) Our road extended
over that wild desert track which stretches towards the Sierra de
Placentia, and proved throughout extremely bad and rugged. About
twelve o'clock, after a march of two leagues and a half we got into
Santivanez, and passing through that village, (which is a poor and
miserable place,) we proceeded to Aggal, half a league further. Here
we halted for the remainder of the day. The following morning we
resumed our journey, and travelled through some romantic scenery.
About a mile from the village of Gihon, we came to a remarkable old
bridge, having but one arch, of immense span, its abutments being
supported by the solid rocks, between whose steep and rugged sides
flowed one of the tributary streams of the Alagon. The situation of
this extraordinary bridge, combined with the wildness of the
neighbouring country, produced on our minds an effect as impressive as
it was delightful. While crossing this dangerous pass, and looking
down upon the torrent that rushed furiously beneath, a terrific chasm
presented itself, of at least a hundred feet in depth; and, in
consequence of the slight elevation of the battlements, it required
some degree of caution to avoid an awful somerset into the dark abyss.
The road, after we had safely cleared the stream, continued along the
face of a craggy precipice, and at length brought us to a thick forest
of oak and elm trees.
We halted at a pretty village called La Sacita where we had good
quarters; mine were at the dwelling of a respectable tiller of the
ground, named Bernardo Lopez, who not only gave me a hearty welcome to
his abode, but regaled me with the best of every thing that his means
could afford. His better half, our worthy patrona, had spent the day
at a distant town, and as in her way home she had to pass through a
lawless track, the anxiety of her family for her safe return was
extreme; Maricita, in particular, (the youngest daughter,) was quite
unhappy on the subject, and the tears ran quickly down her very pretty
and intelligent face.--The mother however soon came to the door, to
the no small delight of the expectant party, and joy once more resumed
its accustomed place at the social hearth of this contented family.
The fire was replenished with an additional supply of fagots, and a
plentiful store of plain though wholesome food was laid upon the
table; in the mean time, a tribe of labouring hinds and foresters
joined the group, and taking up a position in the chimney corner, made
a furious attack, like hungry wolves, upon the sausages with which
their platters were abundantly supplied. On the conclusion of their
repast, the fair damsels of Bernardo beguiled the lazy hours with
sundry cheerful ditties; but from the liberal use of garlick, onions,
and other delicious things by which their breath was perfumed, the
_air_ of those songs, at least in one sense, was anything but
ambrosial, however affecting might be the words.
We proceeded on our journey towards the mountains on the following
day, and entered some very romantic scenery, unequalled in beauty, as
well as grandeur of effect, by any through which we had hitherto
travelled. When within a league of the Puerto de Banos, the promontory
closes into a narrow pass, where a strong and almost impenetrable
defile presents itself, and where a handful of resolute men could
maintain the post against superior numbers. We entered the village of
Banos, where we lodged that night, and marched on the succeeding day
to Bejar.
After winding round the heights beyond Puerto de Banos, and about one
league further, we perceived the town of Bejar, which, from its
elevated site on a craggy range of hills, forms a most conspicuous
feature in the surrounding scenery. The road became narrow as we
approached the town, conducting in a circuitous direction along the
sides of the rocky precipice, having gained the ascent of which we
arrived at the gates by 2 o'clock, and proceeded through a long street
to the Plaza. The balconies on each side were lined with a pretty fair
display of Spanish beauty, from whose sparkling black eyes we were
assailed in every quarter. They all appeared ready to leap down from
the keeping of their duennas, and were so overjoyed at the sight of
the first English soldiers that ever entered within their walls, that
they continued one ceaseless cry of "vive los Ingleses, viva, viva,"
at the same time waving handkerchiefs, flags, and streamers, as we
passed along.
It was easy to account for the joyful reception which we got from the
inhabitants. The French were in their immediate neighbourhood, the
inhabitants of the town momentarily dreaded a visit, and therefore
hailed us as sent to protect them from the plundering hands of the
invaders.
Bejar is situated on the crest of a barren and rocky chain of heights,
branching from the mountains of Candelario. It is as large as
Placentia, but differently planned, being composed of one extensive
range of houses, enclosed by walls, now falling into ruin, yet still
denoting that the place must have been of some importance, to have
required the aid of defences such as these were, in former times.
The approach is by means of a road or pathway, difficult and bad, in
consequence of the broken and irregular nature of the ground, and
there are five entrances by arched gateways, leading from Salamanca,
Alba, and other places. The houses are generally solid and well-built,
forming a contrast with the streets, which are narrow, mean-looking,
and most indifferently paved.
The 50th, which since the death of Colonel Stewart, was commanded by
Lieutenant Colonel I. B. Harrison, formed the garrison here, and the
71st Light Infantry, under Colonel Cadogan, and the 92nd under Colonel
Cameron, were stationed at Banos, and the neighbourhood.
In the usual routine of friendly intercourse with the natives, we
experienced a good deal of what might be termed a gay sort of life;
the intervals, however, and they were tolerably long, were filled up
with duty enough to satisfy the most fastidious martinet, the Adjutant
or Sergeant Major, with their satellites, being perpetually at our
skirts, at all hours, with some newly concocted order for our
edification. The French troops, under Foy, being close at hand,
watching a favorable opportunity to pounce upon us when off our guard,
it was quite requisite that we should be on the alert, and keep our
eyes about us; idle time was, therefore, a very rare commodity, so
that between pickets, outlying and inlying, parades, and other matters
of an equally pleasing description, there was not any very great room
left to enjoy that society which, in a most inviting way, offered its
varied charms for our gratification. By reason of the miserable state
of the old defences of the town, that were tumbling about our ears, it
became highly necessary to guard other openings than those which the
gates presented, and, accordingly, our working parties were busy night
and day, in repairing, with loose stones and clay, the several chasms
and breaches made by time, that yawned in the ancient and crumbling
walls.
Here, and at all the other weaker points, were well armed parties
stationed, and it was by no means so agreeable a lounge as that of
Bondstreet, or Pall Mall, to be pacing up and down, like a hungry
tiger in his cage, behind those tottering stockades, ever and anon
peering above the top, to look out for squalls, or watch the motions
of our vigilant opponents. It was truly no joke, or rather it was a
cool one, to remain thus shivering in every limb, from the damp and
frosty air of a wintry morning. The whole regiment, with the exception
of the lame and lazy, was planted at their alarm post, one hour before
daylight, and at the rendezvous did they remain, in awful stillness,
hardly wide awake, patiently to abide the moment of dismissal, which
usually came when the first glimmering of dawn was seen in the
horizon, or when a white horse was visible within a mile. With faces
exposed to the gentle influence of a sharp norwester, and suffering a
purgatorial trial, while straining our organs of vision to get a peep
at the aforesaid quadruped, we might have waited till this hour, or
even to the day of doom, for no such animal appeared. However, on the
full assurance that our quondam neighbours had no desire to favour us
with their company at that particular period, we were again despatched
from the well known rendezvous, and, hastening to our quarters, we
once more unharnessed, and lost no time in bundling into the warm nest
from which we had so lately started.
Among the varieties of our cantonment, assemblies were got up by those
of the officers who never failed to levy war against melancholy or the
spleen. Dancing was therefore the grand attraction, and the votaries
of that science were amply gratified. To the lively music of our band,
the charming Senoritas figured away, in all the seducing attitudes of
the bolero and the waltz.
In conformity with their absurd and to us hateful usage, the fair
damsels on their appearance filed off right and left, in due order,
and ranged themselves along the benches with a military precision,
worthy of a better cause, taking their seats at such a distance that
they seemed resolved, not even in the ball-room, "to trust their soft
minutes with betraying man." It was soon manifest, however, that they
had not abjured the other sex, for a volley of amorous glances was
darted at the forlorn and deserted males, who, taking consolation in
noisy converse with each other, were soon lost amid the smoke of their
offensive cigars.
With voices naturally sharp and loud, the Spanish Dons continued a
palaver, that seemed as though it came through a speaking trumpet, and
a Babylonish jargon arose on all sides, equalled only in the noisy
purlieus of a bull-ring, while, in the mean time, when they chanced to
notice any thing particularly striking or amusing in the dance, their
delight and admiration were proclaimed by deafening shouts and
vociferous yells. Then, again, they might be heard crying out for
various changes in the figure, such as bolero! bolero! fandango!
seguidillo! contradanza! each bellowing for that which pleased his own
fancy, to the utter discomfiture of those who would have preferred the
quiet pleasures of a less stormy region.
Fortunately, however, for us, the brawlers were seized with a gambling
mania, and a rush was immediately made by them to the folding doors of
an adjoining chamber, where a table was ready, covered with dollars
and doubloons.
The sight of these glittering lures caused the heroes to rejoice, and
attracted thereby, they crowded to the room where the blind goddess
presided, leaving the party in the other to the full enjoyment of
their harmless mirth, for the remainder of the night.
The ladies were highly gratified at the departure of the noisy crew,
for, being vain of their graceful shapes and figures in the dance,
they were happy to show them off to advantage, and to exhibit in the
waltz, which, owing to the crowd, they were before unable to
accomplish. Previous to the vanishing of the gamesters, great was the
jostling, pushing about, and trampling of toes, amidst the hooting and
noise of the spectators.
The palace of the Duke of Ossuna, near the Square, has been in its day
a noble and spacious mansion. Situated on the most elevated part of
the ridge, its conspicuous appearance and lofty towers impart an air
of respectability to the town, that could not be derived from any
other object. The solid masonry of the outer walls, together with the
massive staircase and iron balustrade, which time alone can destroy,
remain in good preservation; but the interior, as well as the
ornamental work, are utterly in ruins, and the mutilated shell is now
the only monument of its original splendour.
Round each of the windows, and the parapet of the tower, the stonework
is curiously wrought in the form of a chain; and the bastion
encircling each tower, together with the courtyard battlements, formed
a defence in ancient times that must have added considerably to the
strength and importance of the building.
There is scarcely a day in the whole year which is not dedicated to
some favourite Saint, and, when the day arrives, each inhabitant,
whose name is that of his Saint, considers it necessary to celebrate
the great event by feasting all his friends and neighbours. St. Joseph
was the protecting holy man of my landlord in Bejar, on which occasion
he gave a grand entertainment to all his acquaintance far and near.
The ceremony began in the morning when the family arose, and continued
throughout the day. The visitors, who came to offer their gratulations
and respects to my worthy host and hostess, were received in the large
reception chamber occupied by Don Pepe (Joseph), and were served with
cakes, chocolate, and liqueurs, handed on plated or silver salvers.
Numbers came to pay their devoirs until the hour of dinner, twelve
o'clock, when a glorious scene of gormandizing set in, which continued
for some hours. The banquet was of a most sumptuous nature, and
consisted chiefly (being Lent time), of fish, eggs, vegetables, and
many other articles in that line, cooked up into an endless variety of
forms and dishes, such as omelets, olla-podridas, pucheros, and
others, which it would be tedious to enumerate. Fruit and wines were
likewise dispensed in abundance, the former entering first; so that
the dessert was served before the first course. To all these edibles
the company did every justice, laying in with such good effect, that
it would seem as if they were storing themselves with provender for a
long campaign. After the siesta, which commenced at three o'clock, the
remainder of the time was spent in loud conversation, in smoking, and
drinking cold water. The supper, where a vigorously renewed attack was
made by those hungry souls, was the last act of this gluttonous
display, after which those who could accomplish it rolled away to
their respective dwellings.
During the week preceding Lent, a sort of Carnival goes on throughout
the town, for the entertainment of the people, who having a long fast
before them give a loose rein to their carnal appetites, and such an
exhibition of buffoonery takes place, that a stranger would imagine
that every fool in Fernando's wide dominions had congregated here on
the occasion. It is properly called El tiempo del _Trucco_, (or
time for play,) men, women, and children joining in the ridiculous
farce, running to and fro through the streets like maniacs, with their
faces blackened, or with masks, cutting all manner of capers, and
playing every variety of antics and practical jokes upon each other.
The chief amusement of the mob consists in fastening on rags, bits of
paper, onion skins, and other ornaments, to decorate the sternmost
parts of the luckless wight to whom the honourable badges are
appended. In order to complete the resemblance to the monkey race, a
tail is sometimes added, giving them thereby a title to claim affinity
also with their brothers of the long eared tribe. The delighted
multitude, calling out "rabo, rabo," throw pails of water from the
windows on the addle pate of the unfortunate pedestrian in the street,
and at the same time, logs of wood tied to ropes are suddenly let fall
from the balconies, to startle the passing horse or mule, so that the
equestrian is soon laid sprawling on the pavement. The gazing crowd is
thrown into raptures, while they grin and shout at the wry faces made
by the luckless object of their mirth. This display of tom-foolery was
carried on to the last moment allowed by their reverend pastors.
Besides the Rabo, they had another trick of casting about on every
side a sort of weed called _pillujo_, which stuck to the clothes
like flour, powdering the garments in such a manner that the streets
appeared as if a fall of snow had lately taken place. In this festival
the Alcalde himself, as well as other Jacks in office, took an active
part. His worship, at the head of a regiment of mountebanks, rigged
out in a motley sort of costume, went skipping and dancing along,
while he led the noisy crew of tag-rag-and-bobtail to collect money
for the support of these absurd performances.
My landlord, Don Pepe, was a worthy sort of a fellow, and gave me a
good deal of information regarding the town; his brother, a member of
the tribe of clerigos, was also a fine hearty don, who had no
objection to a spree; whether in canonicals or not, he was
particularly fond of cards, and he frequently employed the intervals
between his religious duties on the sabbath in a rubber or two with
others of his fraternity, who seemed much more expert in that way than
in their exercise before their congregations.--Gambling is their
favourite pastime, and they enjoy it more on Sundays than they do on
any other day.
The chief employment here is carding and cleaning wool for the cloth
manufactories. The females are constantly occupied in this business,
assembled in groups at their doors and windows, picking the wool and
getting it ready for the loom.
The men appear to be an idle, good for nothing race, lounging about
the squares, or basking in the sun with their constant companion the
cigar; here, or, when the weather is bad, round the brasseiro, they
congregate in knots, holding disputations on the politics of the day,
a subject that is everlastingly on their tapis. In the evening the
aristocracy of the place hold their Tertullias, which is a meeting
where Dame Temperance presides. Collecting a pretty good number at the
Caza of some comfortable Hidalgo, they carry on the old trade of
gaming to some extent, the dons who do not play seating themselves
with the senoras, a lively conversation is maintained, in which those
damsels are by no means idle; nor do they in this, or any other sort
of joint stock company, prove themselves to be sleeping partners. At
those Tertullias there is no refreshing beverage stronger than the
chrystal fluid, to wash down confectionary, or bolas (cakes), which
are handed round on such occasions.
The French, whose head quarters were at Salamanca, twelve leagues from
Bejar, had for some time previous to our arrival threatened to pillage
this town and levy contributions on the inhabitants; but the British
troops appearing, their plan was then disconcerted.--Finding, however,
that one regiment alone was to compose the garrison, their former
intentions were revived, and they accordingly prepared to make an
immediate attack upon the place. The information we gained on this
subject (as already noticed) was the means of keeping us on the alert,
so that we were quite ready to give them a warm reception, whenever
they might feel disposed to pay their long promised visit.
On the night of the 19th, when we were assembled with the civilians at
their public ballroom, and were engaged in all the charming mazes of
the dance, the harmony of our entertainment was interrupted by the
appearance, _mal a-propos_, of one of the staff officials, armed _cap
a pie_, and with lengthened visage. With matters of importance written
on his brow, this harbinger of warlike tidings, looking like a
descendant of him who "drew Priam's curtains in the dead of night,"
informed us that the enemy was rapidly advancing on the town, and that
we must proceed, forthwith, to our respective stations at the wall.
Nothing could exceed the general confusion that immediately prevailed.
Merriment and joyous glee were in a moment transformed to hurry and
vexation. Waltzes and Boleros vanished like a dream, their place being
taken by long faces and grim despair. The fair and lovely senoritas,
who just now were all smiles, laughter and good-humour, became, in the
twinkling of an eye, downcast, forlorn and woebegone. Like so many
terrified rabbits, hunted from the warren, they ran screaming
breathless and bonnetless in all directions, they knew not whither.
The brilliant assemblage was soon dispersed, the scene being changed,
as if by magic, into darkness, solitude and gloom.
Meanwhile, we, whose trade was bloodshed, war and battery, proceeded
to our natural occupation, and, being already accoutred for the field,
were quickly at the rendezvous, prepared for a little morning sport
with the veterans in our front.
At an early hour General Foy, at the head of two thousand men, and a
squadron of cavalry, was observed marching with hasty strides along
the Salamanca road; and when it was clear day-light, their advanced
guard, consisting of light troops, made a vigorous attack upon a
strong picket of the 50th, commanded by Captain Benjamin Rowe, which
had been posted at a farm house on the road.
Formidable by his numerical strength, the enemy pushed on regardless
of all opposition, while the riflemen, stealing warily behind the
rocks and broken ground, and concealed from our view by the
surrounding mist and fog, penetrated almost to the very walls. With
determined obstinacy the picket kept its station, disputing every
inch, until at length, overpowered by superior numbers, it was
compelled to fall back on the reserve, posted near the town.
Well armed parties of our men were drawn up at all the most exposed
and assailable positions, and the utmost vigilance was required on
their part to guard against surprise; the defences being so much
extended, from their embracing the whole circuit of the scattered
suburbs, that, had the French General made a bold and persevering
assault, he must at least have gained access to the principal entrance
of the place.
To this point Foy pushed forward with a considerable body of his
troops, who, flushed by the success of their first onset, moved
daringly forward, to force their way even to the principal street, and
made a furious charge upon the party stationed at the gate. This small
resolute band, detached from the main picket, was commanded by
Lieutenant William Deighton, of the 50th grenadiers, who ranging his
men across the passage, over which the archway was projected, resolved
to defend to the utmost extremity the post at which he was stationed.
Like a warrior of olden time this gallant soldier, of colossal build
and stature, (for he was more than six feet high,) seemed as though he
were himself able to check the further progress of the foe. His orders
for the firing to commence, was answered by a peal so well directed,
and with such deadly aim, as made the Frenchmen waver and fall back. A
repetition of this warm salutation was answered by a sharp and
rattling volley from the rifles of the Frenchmen; with bravery worthy
of a better cause, the assailants still pressed on, closing after the
soldiers under Rowe, until they arrived within thirty or forty paces
of the walls.
Their spirit was, however, at length effectually damped by a repeated
and destructive fire from our men, which sent them about like
nine-pins, handling them so roughly, and finishing the morning's work
by such an unmerciful _coup de grace_, that they could no longer
hold their own. Having no power to rally, or withstand the treatment
they met with, they collected the remnant of their scattered force,
and forming into column, filed off with deliberate steps along the
road, on which, puffed up by full assurance of success, they had so
recently travelled.
They were soon after joined by the remainder of the troops under Foy,
who, seeing that all further efforts would be in vain, marched off to
his former quarters, chagrined in no small degree at his defeat, and
no doubt regretting that he had ventured to attack a garrison composed
of such tough materials.
The joy of the inhabitants of Bejar, on the departure of the enemy,
could be only equalled by their gratitude; and, during the remainder
of our stay among them, we were treated with a degree of kindness and
hospitality, exceeding if possible all that we had hitherto
experienced at their hands. Encouraged by these warmhearted people, as
well as by the smiles of beauty, we could not have felt any duty too
severe, that might have been a means of protecting them from the rude
embraces of Frenchmen, and from the plunder and destruction of their
town and families.