We arrived at Aranjuez on the 13th of October, after an absence of
four days; three of which were spent as agreeably as we could have
wished, and in the full enjoyment of every variety afforded by a city
well deserving a longer visit, and one which though it is less
generally known, is more interesting in every point of view, than many
that are more frequently resorted to.
On the 23rd of October the troops were again in full march, on the
high road to Madrid, halting at various intermediate stations. We
passed that city, on the 29th of the same month, and, tantalized as we
were by our close proximity to its gates, we continued onward in the
direction of the Pass of Guadarama, it being the object of our chief
to follow hard upon the French army, (which was then bending
northward, in rapid strides,) and allow them no rest, night or day,
until we brought them to a decisive combat. Our road, as we approached
the mountains, lay over a fertile country; the view on every side
presenting a vast extent of arable and tillage land. Towards evening,
after a long and painful journey, we halted at the Court-yard of the
Escurial.
This famous palace, built by Philip the Second of Spain, is
consecrated to St. Lawrence, and is formed after the pattern of a
gridiron, upon which very useful culinary article the Saint is
supposed to have undergone the operation of being broiled. The
building stands on one of the heights at the base of the lofty chain
of the Guadarama, and is a huge and spacious pile, enclosing four
distinct court yards, the whole surrounded by an extensive range of
buildings, allotted to the domestic establishment of the royal
household. The grand entrance faces the mountain, the barren sides of
which offer but a confined and uninteresting prospect. From the
windows of the principal apartments, looking to the South, (which are
said to be as numerous as the days in the year,) a view embracing all
that fine extent of country round Madrid, and along the Manzanares,
may, however, be enjoyed, which fully compensates for the dull
uniformity on the other quarters. Some idea may be formed of the
enormous amplitude of the structure, when it is considered that
General Hill's division, including the Portuguese troops, were lodged
within the walls, and found sufficient room in the galleries,
court-yards, and outer-halls, without entering any of the private
chambers. Our brigade marched up the great staircase, with ample space
to move along in sections. It was a splendid cantonment, and worthy a
better fate than that of being converted into a barrack and cooking
place for a few thousand hungry soldiers.
The rooms, into which the officers obtained admittance, were spacious
and lofty, those appropriated to the members of the court being
ornamented and furnished in a costly manner. The lateness of our
arrival, as well as the shortness of our stay, prevented our seeing
the mausoleum; in which the royal family of Spain has been entombed
for ages past. It is considered one of the greatest curiosities in
Europe, and is beneath the grand chapel of the palace. The grand front
has three separate entrances, and above the dome surmounting the
central gate, the figure of St. Lawrence, together with the gridiron,
stand upon a pedestal, and underneath are the Arms of Spain.
On the 1st of November we moved on towards the crest of the Guadarama,
our route being along the summit of the hills, forming the lower
branches of the Sierra, the ascent of which we took more than two
hours to accomplish; many times on the way being obliged to halt, in
order to gain breath for a further stretch. It was a work of
considerable fatigue to both men and animals, and on arriving at the
extreme point we were fairly exhausted by the effect of our morning's
walk. Nature has here placed a formidable barrier between the
provinces of Old and New Castile. This road, which is the only one
across the mountain, is difficult of access, the rocks on either side
being steep, rugged, and in some parts perpendicular, rising high
above the causeway. Close to where we halted stands a pedestal of
granite, on which is placed the figure of a lion crouched, holding
between his paws two balls, intended, as denoted by the inscription
underneath, to represent the provinces below. In the centre of the
pedestal is inserted a square slab of marble, on which is inscribed,
in large characters, "Fernando VII, Pater Patriæ," followed by a long
account of the cause for which the monument was erected, but in
letters so small, and so much defaced, that it is a matter of some
difficulty to decipher the mysterious tale.
Being again formed into something like marching order, we proceeded
downward with a lively pace, leaving the plains of New Castile behind,
and bidding a long and last farewell to that part of Spain, which had
been for years gone by the theatre of our varied and ofttimes not very
peaceful occupation. On our descent from the Sierra, we continued
along the main road to Valladolid, and after having cantoned at
several intermediate stages, arrived on the 8th at Alba de Tormes, a
small town, one day's march from Salamanca, and commanding the passage
of the Tormes, over which, at this place, there was a solid stone
bridge.
We were soon actively employed getting all the old walls and defences
into good condition, and, after waiting behind them for a few days,
expecting an attack from a large body of the French army, (who had
sent some round shot about our ears), we again crossed the river,
taking care to destroy the bridges, the moment that the last of our
men were over.
The enemy, who had threatened in so formidable a way, sheered off to
his left, making for the road to Ciudad Rodrigo, in order to interrupt
our progress in that line, with the view of eventually cutting off our
communication with the frontiers of Portugal.
The whole of the British forces, meanwhile, passed on towards the
Aripiles, those remarkable heights, where the great contest of
Salamanca was fought in the preceding year. Here battle was again
offered to the French, who declined the pleasure of our kind
invitation, and wisely deeming prudence to be the better part of
valour, continued their manoeuvres to impede our march on Portugal,
and succeeded in getting possession of almost all the approaches in
that direction.
On the 14th, our troops were rapidly pushed forward, in order to
counteract their plans, and, by forced marches, we got the lead, the
foremost columns being far advanced on the road to Rodrigo in the
course of that day. It was a neck and neck concern, and nothing but
the superior generalship of Lord Wellington could have brought us
through the difficulty.
The rain poured down in torrents, as we entered the woods, through
which the various routes penetrated, and the most inclement weather
that ever was experienced set in on the commencement of this
unfortunate march. Wind and hail in all their varieties beat
unmercifully upon us, and the elements in fearful agitation combined
to assail us on every side, while the roads, broken up by the violence
of the storm, were rendered almost impassable, producing thereby the
utmost delay in the transport of our supplies. To increase our
sufferings, the personal baggage had been sent on some days in
advance, so that we had no covering whatever but the garments that we
wore, which were now waxing quite deplorable; and as for subsistence,
our only resource was the miserable contents of a lank and scanty
haversack, wherein were jumbled up together, in a sort of medley, the
various remnants of ration leather, (falsely called beef), and mouldy
biscuit, hard and jaw breaking, of which the maggots contended for a
share.--It was enough to horrify the poor chop-fallen wanderer, who
trudged along most dismally, cold, drenched, and woebegone.
Were I to relate but one tenth of the sufferings we endured, in what
is known as the retreat of Salamanca, civilians would stare, and say
that I dealt largely in the marvellous, or was drawing a long bow;
but, start not, ye fireside and ye featherbed gentry, when I inform
you, that many times have we arisen from our damp, and comfortless
berth on the cold ground, with no prospect of a breakfast, but that
which we derived from a meal of acorns, and often have we munched at
these in lieu of more savoury food; chewing (by way of dessert), the
bitter cud of disappointment and vexation.
At the termination of each day's march, down came the branches of the
forest, and loudly clashed the bill hook and the axe, to put in
requisition materials for the long wished-for fire, to establish which
was a labour of no trifling nature, for the timber, throughly
saturated with rain, lay in smoking heaps, long after the light had
been communicated, while we with haggard looks stood collected round
the smouldering pile. The flames at length got up, all due advantage
was taken of this blessing, and no sirloin was ever more industriously
turned by the hand of anxious cook than were our precious bodies, both
front and rear alternately, with the vain hope of getting dry, and
some degree of heat wherewith to cheer our wearied bones.
In the midst of all our extremities there was still something to
excite the mind; while camping out among the oak trees, numerous
droves of wild pigs ran to and fro, as we invaded their dominions, and
in their flight many were fired at and shot by the famished soldiers,
who were ignorant, when committing the depredation, of its being a
crime which would cause the displeasure of our Chief.--Some were
performing the achievement of hunting down the grunters, while others
displayed their skill in the culinary art, after the chase was over.
The unfortunate swinish multitude afforded some delicate tit bits, and
the greasy provender was bolted in solid pieces by the half-starved
men.
Before we came to break in on their retirement, the poor animals were
revelling in luxury on the acorns, by which they chiefly fed, but as
our troops approached their haunts they set up a grand concert,
resounding through the woods, the most audible tone of which was a
firm thorough bass.
The hog is by no means the most despicable of the brute creation, for
have we not had the learned pig, and the pig-faced lady, who thought
it no disgrace to bear a likeness to the useful beast. We have
moreover good reason to know that the quadruped has proved a subject
of deep meditation to more than one biped. There was a certain
wiseacre, who lived not quite a hundred miles from Chester, of ample
paunch, and who not only loved his port, but his port loved him; for
it shone in rosy blossoms on his well bronzed visage; in fact, his
person bore no bad resemblance to a well filled bottle. He was a great
admirer and disciple of Kitchener, Mrs. Glass, and others of the same
stamp. Having one day a party at his house, he, by way of entertaining
them, led them through his grounds, and, after that, to the various
buildings for his cattle. "But now," says the happy man, as they
approached the piggery, rubbing, at the same time, his hands with joy,
"you will see something on which you may feast your eyes;" and, on
giving the signal, a regiment of fat hogs were marched out of their
quarters, and passed in review before the delighted guests. One of the
gentlemen remarked what amazingly fine animals they were. "Yes," says
their host, "I thought you would say so! I flatter myself," (here his
eyes sparkled in triumph,) "there are not such prime ones in England;
they ought to be so,--I feed them well,--_I have made them my constant
study all my life_."
What an intellectual scholar! there was the feast of reason with a
vengeance; fat pork, tusks, bristles and all. What a study!--O ye
classics, ye national educationists, ye Broughamites,--hide your
diminished heads! Here's a college course for ye; aye, and one that
may be studied by John Bull with joy and pride; for, instead of
wasting the midnight oil, he may consult his larder, and contemplate,
with a rapturous sensation, the Essays of Bacon, and Hog's-tales,
while poring over the whole range of his swinish library. But, enough!
we must recommence our march.
The gentlemen with the blue coats not chusing to measure swords with
us, we lingered not upon the road, but, moving on the Agueda, arrived
at the village of Robledo on the 18th. Here we were comparatively in
luxury for a season; the severity of our recent journey, added to the
miseries of night exposure under such dreadful weather, rendered
doubly welcome the comfort of a roof; and the kitchen fire of even an
humble dwelling restored us once more from our torpid state to spirit
and animation. To each of the officers was allotted a tolerably good
sized cabin, furnished plentifully with straw, in which, to our
dismay, we found a numerous tribe of nimble footed gentry, which have
already been more than once mentioned.
We broke up from those cantonments, and, steering our course over a
long mountainous ridge, we entered the town of Coria, on the 30th of
November. This place is situated on a steep hill, at the base of which
flows the small river Alagon, and is at no great distance from the
Portuguese frontier. The country around is well planted with the olive
and the vine, of the latter in particular there was then a great
abundance, of the finest description, from which the most delicious
wine is made.
In company with another officer, I was billetted on the house of an
ancient widow, who was the most perfect shrew I ever beheld. It must
have been a happy day for her unfortunate spouse, that witnessed his
departure from the stormy vicinity of his termagant rib, to the more
peaceful mansions of the defunct.
The heaviness of the weather, subsequent to our arrival, caused us to
pass rather a dreary time, made still more sad by the death-like
tolling of the cathedral bells, eternally sounding in our ears. The
place is well stocked with a great variety of priests, monks, friars,
and other ecclesiastics, forming a worshipful host, with ill-favoured
countenances. Although their looks are meagre, their corpulent
rotundity of shape proves that to mortify the body forms no part
whatever of their doctrine, and that an abundance of fat things,
together with a liberal supply of the vinous fluid, are by no means
inconsistent with their holy calling. It is also said of them, that
the worldly discussion of those affairs is much more frequently the
subject of their meditation, than the comparatively irksome duty of
either _prayer_ or _fasting_. The best and most luscious wine, not
only here, but in all parts of Spain, is denominated, in justice to
the better taste of those divines, "_Priests' wine_," and is more
highly valued than any other.
The Alcalde, the corporation, and the myrmidons pertaining thereto,
were a mean-looking, ill-dressed set of fellows. The former is chosen
annually from the middle classes; in some instances his worship has
figured in the trade of pig-driver, butcher, or other employment of
that nature.
We saw but few inhabitants of distinction here; the families of the
poorer order were numerous, generally ill-looking, and badly clothed.
The females, in particular, we remarked, as not being "cast in
nature's finest mould;" in fact, to tell the honest truth, I must say,
that we never beheld a more ugly and forbidding race of damsels. On
this account, they were certainly right to hide themselves. Indeed, we
seldom had an opportunity of gazing at their lovely persons; as,
unless at those times when they tottered, (as they always seemed to
do) to chapel, they remained chiefly within doors, enjoying the genial
warmth of the brasseiro, in preference to exposing their delicate
frames to the effect of the chilling blast. The usual mildness of the
climate, as well as the summer heat, congenial to the Spanish fair,
renders them more sensible of cold, and less capable of enduring the
rudeness of December winds and frost. The transition from the close
atmosphere of their dwellings to the bleak and humid air within their
churches is often the means of imparting to the Senoras a pale and
ghastly look, their dark and sallow aspect assuming a death-like
tinge, which, combined with their usually spectral form, would
indicate to the observer, that the wire drawn figures on the marble
flags of the chapel were speedily to occupy a tenement of small
dimensions beneath the stones upon which they knelt.
A short time subsequent to our arrival at Coria, Colonel Charles
Stewart, of the 50th, died of fever, brought on by excessive fatigue,
after an illness, of about ten days. His constitution was undermined,
not only by the effect of past service in India, but by that in which
he was engaged in Spain. The harassing marches we had undergone since
we passed the Tormes overcame his already impaired health, and he may
be literally said to have fallen a victim to his unwearied exertions
on that retreat.
By all who could appreciate the value of high military feeling and
strict discipline, Colonel Stewart was justly regretted. Zealous and
well informed on every point of duty, he knew how to estimate those
qualities in others, while he held a tight rein over the careless and
inattentive. Such characters as composed the Belem[26] Rangers he
never could approve of, and at all times he set his face against a
certain set of men, who were very fine fellows when strutting upon
parade at home, but were so careful of their own dear persons, that
they kept at a most respectful distance from the field when there was
any rough work going forward.
[26] This troop of heroes was composed of men and officers
with facings of all the colours in the rainbow, and with
every variety of garb. Among them were those who could not
fight, as well as those who would not; and I am sorry to
say, that of the latter there was a large proportion. Some,
ashamed of being enrolled upon its list, remained but a
short time with the corps; others, vegetating in all the
delights of peace and quietness, with zealous attachment to
the Rangers, put off the evil hour as long as possible.
Being fond of dainties, they kept within the smell of
Lisbon, with its oil and garlick, the perfume of which they
snuffed up with ecstasy. As for being exposed to fire, they
coveted no more than sufficed for their cigars; the smoke
from thence was smoke enough for them. Figuring away with
the Portuguese Senoras, they were formidable cavaliers, and
as their gallantry was all expended on those fair objects,
they had none to spare for warlike purposes. They were fond
of duty about the castle of Belem, nor had they any
particular fancy to go to a distance from the Tagus. The
bivouac was their horror; they eschewed the miseries of a
camp; and, with regard to marching, from the caffés to the
operas and back again, was, in their ideas, just as much
fatigue as any gentleman ought to suffer; therefore, to call
them Rangers was a sad misnomer. In order to neutralize the
evil, and prevent the corps from getting rather strong,
officers were placed at Abrantes, Castel Branco, and other
intermediate stations, who performed the duty of whippers
in. Those in general were tight hands, and if there was an
officer of rank, who bore the character of being a bitter
pill, he was sure to get the post, so that the poor
crest-fallen aspirants for promotion in the Belemites had no
chance, but were checked in their career; and unless they
could duly prove that they were curtailed in natural
dimensions, by the loss of legs or arms, or had suffered
other more desperate mutilations, they were forced to troop
it back again, with their faces to the army.
It latterly became so difficult a matter to pass these
barriers, that several preferred, though riddled through
with balls, to rough it in the camp, rather than run the
gauntlet past these commandants.
The worthy members of the corps above alluded to had no
extraordinary relish for intelligence from the front, and
when accounts came down of desperate fighting, or a hint was
thrown out, that some of them might be wanted, it created a
wondrous stir among them; their military ardour was cooled
in a marvellous way, and whatever stock of courage they
could boast of, oozed out, (as it did with Bob Acres),
through their fingers' ends.
At home what capital officers they made, swarming in to join
with prompt alacrity (when the war was over,) and with much
bravado talking of their past campaigns, and lording it over
the juniors! How they did puff and blow, in country
quarters, on trooping off the guard, and looking wondrous
big, as they exercised their little brief authority!
The remains of Colonel Stewart were followed to the tomb by all the
troops in the garrison, and were interred in the terrace of the grand
Cathedral here.
Brigadier General Wilson, late Colonel of the 39th also died here, he
was an old officer and deservedly regretted.