a shoe-store to fit on boots and slippers. If by proper she means
customary, we reply in the affirmative; and, indeed, if the attendant
is respectful, there can be nothing more to say. If in the least rude,
his employer should at once be spoken to; a few such lessons would
teach civility. In Philadelphia, and sometimes in New York, ladies
are the attendants, which is much more agreeable, and should be made
a general custom. Whenever the reverse is the case, the motto of the
"garter" should be taken for the shoe--"_Honi soit qui mal y pense._"
"MISS L. S. D." will find a reply to her queries in our "Centre-Table
Gossip." We prefer the old style of canvas-work, which should never
be done in the evening hour, as the threads of the canvas, counting
stitches, or sorting the wools strains the strongest eyes. Filling up
the groundwork is not so objectionable.
"LA TABLIER"--Aprons are _not_ worn in the street, but are very
fashionable for morning or home-dress. They are two breadths wide,
and reach a little below the knee, and can be made of plain black or
fancy silk, with outside pockets or not, at pleasure. Velvet ribbon and
galloon are sometimes used in trimming them. Others are flounced across
the bottom by graduated ruffles, or ornamented by knots of ribbon in
the old style.
"E. JANE B." need not fear that we will betray her inquiries to any
of her acquaintances. We cannot recommend any perfectly safe cosmetic
but soap and water, disapproving of the whole plan. Elder-flower
water is said to be efficacious, and is certainly simple. Powder of
any kind will _eventually_ dry up the skin, and produce wrinkles and
discoloration, however much it may seem to improve the complexion at
first.
"A SOUTHERN SUBSCRIBER" must remember that we have no claims to
medical skill as a journal. The word dyspepsia explains the nature of
the ailment. It came from the Greek, and signifies, "I digest with
difficulty." For the oppression he speaks of after meals, we have
always found a cup of water taken clear, and as hot as it is possible
to drink it, the best remedy. Ginger, or any other stimulant, has its
mischievous reaction or consequent.
"MRS. C." can have the curtains cleaned at any dyers; they are the
persons to apply to, and will often restore them wonderfully. The shawl
will probably look almost as well as new, though crapes have invariably
a stiff, _washed_ look that betrays them.
"ROSA" will find that we continue our gardening hints, finding them
very popular. As regards the other matter, she will find all necessary
information in "Godey's Hand-Book of Dress-making," just published.
"A SCHOOL-GIRL" should never use common brown soap if she is liable
to chapped hands, as it contains turpentine, which roughens the skin.
Oatmeal will answer instead of any soap; also, honey softens the skin.
"A HOUSEKEEPER."--French mustard differs materially from what is used
in England, for vinegar, more or less, enters into the composition,
and the grain itself is not the same; the finer sorts have always the
addition of aromatic herbs, so that there are no less than twenty-four
different sorts of French mustard. The common kind is made with the
grain of the Lenvoyè, which is of a darker color than English mustard
seed. It is ground up with vinegar on a stone slab, and then put into
pots for use. Provide yourself with the senevè or senvy seed, and then
reduce it to a fine powder, mixing it with the French vinegar sold by
the grocers.
Fashions.
NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.
Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry,
millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance, _the Editress of the
Fashion Department_ will hereafter execute commissions for any who
may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time
and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets,
dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc.,
will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or
packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last,
distinct directions must be given.
_Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be
addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for
the amount, and the early execution of commissions._
_No order will be attended to unless the money is first received._
Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note
of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on which
_much depends_ in choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's, bonnets
from Miss Wharton's, jewelry from Bailey's, Warden's, Philadelphia, or
Tiffany's, New York, if requested.
DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE FOR FEBRUARY.
_Fig. 1st._--Morning or home-dress, of violet-colored cashmere,
embroidered with black, in a new and very elegant style. The basque
has deep points, and a trimming to correspond extends up the points
and surrounds the sleeves. Chemisette in imitation of a vest pattern;
sleeves and cap of Honiton lace.
_Fig. 2d._--Dinner or evening-dress of pale rose-colored watered silk,
made perfectly plain, with a tunic skirt end _berthé_ cape of a white
brocaded pattern. The hair is arranged in very rich puffs and bands,
and dressed with rose-colored plumes falling to the throat.
EMBROIDERED DRESSING-GOWN.
(_See Plate._)
We give the pattern of a beautiful dressing-gown in needle-work
embroidery. It may be done on plain cashmere or merino for winter, or
muslin or cambric as a summer dress. It consists of a petticoat and
sacque, the latter loose, with flowing sleeves.
CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS FOR FEBRUARY.
February, with its few mild days, is still to be reckoned as one of
the winter months by dress as well as the calendar. The shop windows
themselves present very few novelties, and the side-walk none at all.
The endless varieties of cloaks and mantillas--the Hungarian, the
Galeta, the Nabob, the Victoria, the Norma--are still in season, and
the winter bonnets, with their profusion of trimming inside and out,
will be worn until April. We particularly notice for the benefit of
those having a large or expensive stock on hand, the edict of a late
foreign fashion journal: _although large collars are the fashion_, it
must not be _supposed_ that _small ones are altogether laid aside_.
They are still worn with cloth and merino dresses, and for the street,
as large ones do not set well over cloaks and mantillas. Plain linen
collars and undersleeves are still worn for the street, and travelling,
and for the morning.
For making dresses, there are every variety of sleeves. For
morning-dresses, the fulness at the wrist is gathered into a wide cuff
turned over. It is a mistake to copy the full-puffed or slashed sleeve
of Charles V.'s costume with any other style of waist. Such fanciful
costumes should not be copied piecemeal; they lose all their effect.
Better be a little behind the fashion. Costumes invented for rich
materials expressly cut a very shabby figure in mousselines or chintzes.
Basques are as much in fashion as ever, the favorite style being
renamed "Odette Bodies." The basque, or lappets, being of the same
piece as the body--not attached to it, but gored out, as it were, over
the hips. For slender waists, the Parisian dress-makers have used
gathered bodies, with the lappets sewed on, as the Odette body, being
quite plain, is not considered becoming.
We conclude our chat by an article upon mourning, copied from a
valuable little publication, to which we would call the attention of
our lady readers. The title is significant--"HOW TO MAKE A DRESS: _a
Help to those who wish to Help themselves_." The American edition
is altered and enlarged by our own editress, from whom we quote the
following chapter:--
"MOURNING.
"Some guiding hints as to the choice of mourning goods, and the general
effect of close and half mourning, may not be amiss.
"Close mourning, more commonly called _deep_ mourning, is usually worn
only for the nearest relations--a husband, parents, child, brother,
or sister. A widow's mourning, called 'weeds' in England, is not so
distinct in this country. There the close tarleton or muslin cap, with
its crimped border, is its accompaniment for a year at least. The
fashion has of late years been adopted in this country, particularly in
New York, where it is so common as not longer to excite the curiosity
it called out at first, when worn by young persons. Bombazine, trimmed
with folds of crape (the dress, mantilla, and bonnet), with a veil
of double Italian or heavy English crape, is considered the deepest
mourning. Nothing white, as collar, cuffs, or undersleeves, is worn by
those who thus follow the dictates of fashion, even in their sorrow,
through the first six months or year.
"Another style--also considered deep, and usually worn for parents
or children--allows of a variety of material, as black cashmere,
mousseline, Tamese cloth, alpaca, etc. etc., trimmed with silk or
ribbon, even plain braids and galloons. Undersleeves and collars of
Swiss muslin, tarleton, or linen, relieve the sombre shade, and add a
neatness to the dress which it can never have where black crape is used
for the purpose. This is the most general style.
"A lighter mourning is black silk trimmed lightly with crape, mode
bonnet, etc. etc.
"Again, half mourning admits of as great a variety in shade and
material as colors; lead and stone colors being considered appropriate;
lavender, and even deep purple, are often used. What is thus
denominated 'dressy black,' or, by the witty author of 'How to get
Married,' 'mitigated grief,' seems to us to lose the sacredness with
which sorrow usually invests the dress of a mourner.
"In choosing mourning goods, the first essential, _even before
quality_, is a good shade of black, neither blue nor rusty; a dead,
solid color is considered most desirable. If possible, have the dress,
mantle, and bonnet from the same piece, either in bombazine or silk.
It gives the whole dress the same shade, and will wear alike. Never
get a cheap material in black; it will be sure to fade or grow rusty.
Here, especially, _the dearest is always the cheapest in the end_.
For constant wear, we prefer cashmeres, or even plain mousselines, to
bombazines. Black English chintzes make nice morning-dresses, and fade
very little in washing. For summer wear, _barèges_, silk tissues, and
grenadines are considered deep mourning. The cross-barred _barège_ is
the strongest, and grenadines of good quality will wear several years.
"Although not exactly belonging to our present purpose, we would
mention that drawn hats of crape and grenadine, or even black straws
trimmed with crape, are appropriate to the second style of dress we
have mentioned, when the heat of the weather is too great for bombazine
and silk.
"Veils are of double crape, single English, and crape lisse. 'Love
veils' are a thick tissue or grenadine, with a deep silk border.
"In making up mourning, if in a thick material, a lead-colored lining
will be sufficiently dark; in a thin material, it is usual to have the
lining covered with thin Florence silk. Black linen will, however,
answer the purpose. It should be boiled first in salt and water, and
pressed out while damp. Black cambric, etc., will color the skin, and
the stain be found very difficult to efface. The same is true of plain
black lawns as a dress material.
"Very little trimming suffices for mourning; indeed, the very intention
of the dress would be lost if much were used. We know this is often
the case; but it is sanctioned neither by taste nor economy. We have
even seen _ruffled bombazines_. We object to them decidedly. Folds, by
general consent, seem to be the most appropriate style; in the first
place, from the thickness of the material generally in use, and again,
from the plainness of the effect which is generally required. Broad
flat galloons have also been the style the present year; but that is
only a transient shade of fashion.
"As travelling has always its accompaniment of dust, gray dresses are
almost invariably worn even by those in deep mourning. There is a
material of silk and linen which will be found very serviceable, and
is sufficiently dark trimmed with black braid. As there can be very
little variety in close mourning, _neatness is considered its principal
elegance_, and is the point to be aimed at."
SCOTT'S WEEKLY PAPER
FOR 1853 AND 1854.
THE GREATEST ARRAY OF LITERARY TALENT,
And most splendid Series of Legends, Nouvellettes, Romances,
Stories, &c., ever offered to the American Public.
* * * * *
The Publisher of "Scott's Weekly Paper," in making his announcement
for the Fall and Winter campaign, takes more than ordinary pleasure in
stating that his popular Family Journal for the coming year will present
A COMBINATION OF LITERARY ATTRACTIONS
and marks of distinguished ability entirely unprecedented in newspaper
publishing. Grateful for the liberal and highly flattering support
extended to his favourite paper in
EVERY SECTION OF THE UNION,
and determined, regardless of expense, to place it in a position above
all competition, he has entered into arrangements with the leading
FIRST CLASS AMERICAN AUTHORS,
by which he will be enabled to furnish his subscribers with _THE
CHOICEST LITERARY GEMS_ ever offered in a weekly journal.
* * * * *
Among the _NEW FEATURES_ of the coming year, the publisher would
announce a new and brilliant series of _POPULAR ROMANCES_ from the
gifted and distinguished pen of
GEORGE LIPPARD,
Entitled, "LEGENDS OF THE LAST CENTURY,"
written expressly for "_Scott's Weekly Paper_," and now first offered
to the public.
All who enjoyed the rare felicity of reading MR. LIPPARD'S famous
"=LEGENDS OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION=," published in the "_Saturday
Courier_" _for fifty-six consecutive weeks_, will, we feel satisfied,
be delighted with the prospect of a new series, embracing the leading
events in American and French history during the last hundred years.
The scenes, incidents, and characters of this, his last work, have
been collated with the greatest care and most diligent research, from
the records, reminiscences, and popular traditions of the people of
both continents, and form the most reliable _HISTORICAL CYCLOPEDIA_
of the present age. Mr. Lippard has, in these Legends, displayed all
the original power, brilliancy, and classic beauty of style, which
rendered his previous works so popular at the firesides of all true
lovers of _A SOUND AMERICAN LITERATURE_; and we feel proud in having
the opportunity to announce that the readers of "Scott's Weekly Paper"
shall be the first to peruse them, and admire their separate and
numerous excellences.
As Mr. Lippard will contribute solely to "Scott's Weekly Paper," the
American public will see the necessity of sending their orders at the
earliest possible moment, in order to secure these _GREAT HISTORICAL
PRODUCTIONS_, which will not be published in any other form.
In connection with the above-named Legends of the Olden Time, we have
the satisfaction to announce that
EMERSON BENNETT,
the eminent Novelist, author of "Viola," "The Forged Will," and other
works of unmistakable genius, has been engaged to write one or more
=POPULAR NOUVELLETTES=, the publication of which will shortly be
commenced.
These will be followed by
HENRY C. WATSON'S
splendidly illustrated story, entitled
THE TWO-EDGED KNIFE,
the incidents of which are taken from the early history of the hardy
Pioneers of Kentucky.
To these, we expect to add contributions from the following
_DISTINGUISHED FEMALE WRITERS_, with whom negotiations are now
pending:--
=Mrs. Caroline Lee Hentz=, =Mrs. D. E. N. Southworth=,
=Mrs. M. A. Dennison, and Lille Lilberne=:
So that it may be fairly presumed and confidently promised that
_SCOTT'S WEEKLY PAPER_, in excellence, variety, and originality of
reading matter, will be acknowledged at once as
THE LARGEST AND BEST FAMILY NEWSPAPER OF THE WORLD.
The Paper will also contain the choicest selections from the best
American and European publications of the day, together with Editorials
on Current Events, Domestic and Foreign News, Graphic Letters on the
Old World and the New, Interesting Outlines of Social and Political
Life, and, indeed, every feature that can delight the reader and store
the mind with useful and practical knowledge of the times we live in.
* * * * *
TERMS OF SUBSCRIPTION.
_ONE COPY_, _One Year_, $2
_TWO COPIES_, " 3
_Full Price_ $4
_FOUR COPIES_, " 5
" 10
_NINE COPIES_, "
_and one to the getter-up of the Club_, 10
" 20
_TWENTY COPIES_, " " " " " "
20 " 42
Address, postpaid, A. SCOTT, Publisher,
_No. 111 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa._
READING FOR THE MILLION!
T. S. ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.
THE CHEAPEST MONTHLY PERIODICAL IN THE WORLD.
ONLY $1 25 A YEAR IN CLUBS OF FOUR.
Eighty large, double-column Octavo Pages of Choice Reading
Matter in each Number. Elegantly Illustrated with Steel and Wood
Engravings.
THE THIRD VOLUME OF THE HOME MAGAZINE BEGINS IN JANUARY, 1854.
* * * * *
In conducting this work, the editor (T. S. Arthur) pledges himself to
keep its pages free from everything that is ill-natured, profane, or
vulgar; while, at the same time, he will seek to impart thereto the
highest possible degree of interest.
Of its quality we will let the press speak. From hundreds of editorial
notices of a highly commendatory character, the following are taken:--
ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.--The publishers of this valuable monthly have
added a new feature to its attractiveness. The second volume, beginning
with the number for July, opens with a beautiful steel plate, besides
a great number of fine wood engravings. The Home Magazine only lacked
this feature, of illustrations, to make it not only one of the best,
but one of the most beautiful and attractive of all our monthlies. With
this addition, it will certainly rank among the first, if not at the
head of the list.--_Journal, Greenville, N. Y._
Arthur's editorial department is characterized by sense, energy, and
progress.--_Philadelphia Delta._
Parents, if you wish to create and foster a love for reading in your
children, obtain Arthur's Magazine.--_Courier of Reform, Concord, N. H._
Arthur's Home Magazine is before us in its endless variety. It is the
finest breakfast-table companion we meet with. A person can peruse its
pages with pleasure and profit for a moment, or for hours.--_Herald,
Fond du Lac, Mich._
This monthly, although one of the youngest, is certainly one of the
most popular periodicals in the country.--_Philadelphia Inquirer._
This periodical should be a "standard" in every
family.--_Intelligencer, Amsterdam, N. Y._
Arthur's Home Magazine is rapidly making its way into public
favor, as it deserves, and will, before very long, assume its
place among the best and most widely circulated magazines in our
country.--_Philadelphia News._
We can confidently recommend this magazine.--_Times, Maumee City, Ohio._
The contents are of the most interesting and useful character, and
it is exactly what it purports to be, a "Home" Magazine.--_Literary
Journal, Washington, Ind._
We predict for this magazine a popularity never exceeded in this
country. It is the best and cheapest published this side of the
Atlantic.--_Herald, Springfield, N. Y._
Mr. Arthur has succeeded in getting up, in our opinion, one of the best
and cheapest magazines of the day. We wish the talented editor and
author success in his new enterprise.--_Cincinnati Daily Atlas._
The number before us is of rare interest, and we doubt not of its
success.--_Scientific American._
ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.--This monthly is a constant and welcome visitor
at our table, and should be in every family in the land. T. S. Arthur
has done, and is still doing, more to promote the dissemination of
chaste and unexceptionable literature among his countrymen than any
other writer of his times.--_Chronicle, Gowanda, N. Y._
ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.--This is an admirable magazine, conducted
with great ability, and is entirely free from everything that can
vitiate or in the least deprave the mind. It is just what it purports
to be, a _Home_ Magazine, eminently adapted to the wants of the
family.--_Miscellany, Thomaston, Me._
ARTHUR'S HOME MAGAZINE.--Eighty pages per month of choice reading for
$1 25. That is, four can club and get it for $5--a little less than ten
cents per month. You may pay twenty-five cents for a red-covered volume
by Mrs. Somebody, and the Home Magazine will be worth a dozen of that
same--Fact!--_Advertiser, Roxbury, Mass._
If you want good reading for your family, try the Home Magazine for a
year. The price is so low that you need not deprive yourself of any
favourite publication in order to make the experiment.
* * * * *
Terms of Arthur's Home Magazine.
One Copy for One Year, $2 00
Two Copies " " 3 00
Three " " " 4 00
Four " " " 5 00
[Illustration] All additional subscribers beyond four at the same rate,
that is, $1 25 per annum.
[Illustration] Where twelve subscribers and $15 are sent, the getter-up
of the club will be entitled to an additional copy of the Magazine.
[Illustration] _Send for specimen numbers._
[Illustration] _AT THESE PRICES, THE HOME MAGAZINE IS THE CHEAPEST
MAGAZINE IN THE WORLD._
[Illustration] For $3, a copy each of the _HOME GAZETTE_ and _HOME
MAGAZINE_ will be sent for one year.
[Illustration] For $3 50 a copy of each of _HOME MAGAZINE_ and _LADY'S
BOOK_ will be sent for one year.
Address, T. S. ARTHUR & Co.
No. 107 Walnut Street. Philadelphia.
* * * * *
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| Transcriber notes: |
| |
| P.124. 'how meagrely' changed to 'how meagerly' |
| P.147. 'crums' changed to 'crumbs'. |
| P.159. 'had'nt' changed to 'hadn't' |
| P.183. Taken hyphen out of 'excellent-book'. |
| P.184. 'envelop' changed to 'envelope'. |
| P.189. 'Miss Wharton's jewelry', was 'ewelry', changed. |
| Add 1: 'the followin' changed to 'the following'. |
| Music, page 1. bar 19, [g b], should be [g b], changed; |
| bar 18, g,8.[ b8 d8] should be g,8.[ b16 d8], changed. |
| Fixed various punctuation. |
| |
+--------------------------------------------------------------+