than the mantilla, a fashion that bids fair to be quite general the
entire winter for outside garments, or _pardessus_, as the French call
them. This, however, is intended for the milder season of spring, being
made of rich violet-colored taffeta, trimmed with bows of thick satin
ribbon, the same shade in front, and encircled by two falls of black
lace.
Figs. 2 and 3 are breakfast caps, Fig. 2 being intended for a bride
or young married lady, being composed of lace and close bows of
rose-colored satin ribbon; the cap fits close to the head, a fall of
broad ribbon coming behind the ear.
Fig. 3 is more novel in shape, and intended for an older person, the
trimming encircling the face.
EMBROIDERED SCREEN.
[Illustration]
_Materials._--Black satin, three shades of green chenille, gold
twist, and gold beads.
Work the shamrock with the green chenille, veining the leaves with
gold twist; the foliage in the background is also worked with green
chenille. The frame-work of the harp is executed with beads, and the
strings with twist. The wolf-hound is worked with brown chenille in
embroidery stitch, as also are the stems of the shamrock and foliage.
PATTERNS FOR EMBROIDERY.
[Illustration]
BRAID PATTERN.
[Illustration]
PETTICOAT TRIMMING.--IN BRODERIE ANGLAISE.
[Illustration]
_Materials._--French muslin, with royal embroidery cotton, No. 30,
and Moravian, No. 24.
This engraving is on a scale just half the size of the original
pattern. It is so strong that it is peculiarly adapted for jupons,
which are worn, generally, most elaborately trimmed. The edge, which
consists of a single scallop, is considerably raised; the Moravian
cotton is to be used for this purpose. The wheels are all worked round
in button-hole stitch, over a tracing of three threads, a rosette being
in the centre of each. Indeed, if the entire pattern be overcast,
instead of being sewed in the usual way, it will contribute much to the
durability as well as the appearance of the work.
BRODERIE ANGLAISE FOR FLOUNCING.
(_See Blue Plate in front of Book._)
_Material._--French embroidery cotton, No. 20.
This description of work, now so extremely fashionable for every
description of dress, is usually done on fine jacconet muslin; and, to
prepare the pattern, either of the following methods may be used: Place
the muslin over the pattern, taking care to keep it even and tight;
then, with a fine camel-hair brush, and a solution of indigo or powder
blue, mixed with gum-water, copy the outline of the pattern, and, to
continue it, take care, after one length of the design is drawn, to
place the muslin so that the pattern joins correctly. The other method,
which is useful for thicker material--take the design, and, with a fine
penknife or scissors, cut out the blue parts of the pattern, place it
over the material to be used, and trace it round the cut-out parts as
above directed; pierce the small eyelet-hole with a stiletto. When the
pattern is prepared, tack the muslin on a piece of oil-cloth (green
is the best color to work on for all descriptions of embroidery); run
twice round the outline of the pattern with the cotton used double,
and join the open spaces, cut a small piece out of the centre of the
rounds and ovals, and, with the single cotton, work the edges in
overcast stitch--the cotton run round, and the edges cut, forming the
foundation. In the parts between the ovals and rounds, when there is
only a small division of muslin, the whole should be overcast so as
to form one bar between the open spaces. Repeat the same for the ovals
which form the scallop round the outer edge, the diamonds of twelve
ovals, and the rounds which form the Vandykes. The remainder of the
pattern is worked in the same manner; but, instead of the overcast
stitch, the open spaces are to be sewn thickly over. A small portion
only of the pattern should be cut out at a time; and, should the design
be worked on a fine material, use cotton No. 24 or 30.
EMBROIDERED COLLAR.
[Illustration]
_Materials._--French muslin, with embroidery cottons, Nos. 70 and
50; and boar's head sewing cotton, No. 90.
As the popularity of embroidery in muslin has become greater during
the past year than it had been for a long period previous to it, so
the skill of the majority of lady-workers has greatly increased; and
we can now venture on presenting them with designs of a more elaborate
nature than we have hitherto done, in the hope that our friends will
be tempted, by the novel style of the pattern, to try the effect of a
blending of the open work with satin-stitch.
The medallions are given of the full size, and any number may be used
for a collar, according to the taste of the wearer. One half must fall
in one direction, and the other half in the opposite one. Perhaps the
design may appear hardly deep enough to those who are accustomed to the
outrageous size of some of the mousquetaire collars; but very large
collars are entirely exploded, and the dimensions of this now given are
quite in accordance with the mode.
The design is so clearly seen in the engraving that no description of
it is required. The finest embroidery cotton is to be used for the
satin-stitch, and for sewing round the eyelet-holes; the coarser for
the button-hole stitch; the boar's head cotton for the herring-bone.
EDITORS' TABLE.
Our American Peripatetics--that is, travelling lecturers--are now,
and have been since last October, in full voice among us. To number
the amount of "good sentences and well pronounced" uttered by these
popular instructors during the season, would require the assistance of
a calculating machine. Let us hope the effect of all this speechifying
may be salutary. At any rate, none will deny that the general tendency
of this mode of evening entertainments is innocent, and if the
knowledge thus acquired is not of great amount, the love of knowledge
is warmed into new life, and the desire to improve awakened; and then,
women are admitted to these lessons of literature and philosophy, a
vital improvement on the Aristotelian platform. Let the educator be
rightly instructed--woman is the educator of the race--and who shall
set bounds to the progress of humanity? But the lectures--among those
we have heard or read, as reported for the press, none pleased us
better than one on Poetry, by Mr. Saxe; one on "Books," by Mr. Giles;
and the series on "The Poetry of Poets," by Dr. Holmes. The lecture on
"Books" was, perhaps, the most original, and a few paragraphs we will
select as illustrative of the style and tone of thought.
* * * * *
_The Power of Books._--"Fragments of divine biography swept away the
bloody power of the Cæsars, and books may set in action the most
resistless natures--overturn and obliterate empires. The elements,
even, are weak to what a book may be. The most accessible, the most
manageable, it may possess that which will change nations, and make
empires disappear.
* * * * *
"When we inquire what it is that causes the words of men to live upon
the earth after they have departed, we may say, Truth; but that is
undefinable: but if we could arrive at the greatest cause, we would
say, Humanity--those attributes which constitute man's universal nature.
* * * * *
_Of Books, good and bad._--"A good book is among the best of good
things, and its contents are embalmed and treasured up 'to life above
life.' Good is not alone that which is fact, but that which gives
impulse--which does not flatter into content, but quickens into
inspiration; and while a good book is the best of good things, a bad
book is the worst of bad things. But we must take a free literature
with its imperfections as well as its advantages, for an inquisition
of literature would be no more tolerable than an inquisition of
religion. Preaching, even, on bad books is worse than vain--it only
advertises them, and makes the hearer eager to read and examine their
contents, for how can the preacher know that it is a bad book unless
he reads it? and why are his hearers not as capable to judge as well
as himself? The true guard against them is education, and the next
step is to treat them with silence and contempt. There are those who
desire a book as a living companion of the mind; and to such, a good
work is society to his loneliness--a balm to his troubles--a friend to
the friendless--wealth to the poor, and moreover, can keep the mind in
action though the body dies.
* * * * *
_The Pleasures of Books._--"There is a joy in books which those alone
can know who read them with desire and with enthusiasm; as from time
to time there were books which created order out of disorder, and made
states, and shaped empires. By books we can accompany the traveller,
and take a voyage with the navigator, see what they have seen, and thus
go back to other days, and other times; can listen to eloquence which
was not so much the thought, of man as of nations, and read speeches
of men who incarnate whole civilized nations in their views--whose
impulse was the common heart. There is a genius for reading as well
as for writing, and there are probably as few successful readers as
writers--that is, those who come in material relation to the meaning of
the author; for, without imbibing the spirit of the writer, there can
be no criticism."
LITERATURE FOR LADIES.
Among the books of interest lately published, we must place the last
work[C] by Miss Bremer, which needs to be read in the spirit of the
writer--that is, in the love of the true and the good, which she deeply
manifests, in order to be justly appreciated. We gave in our last
number a short notice of this remarkable work, intending to prepare
a longer critique for this month; and regret we have been hindered
from completing our intention. But as the work cannot now be readily
obtained, our readers who have not read it, will, we are sure, be
gratified by a few selections expressive of Miss Bremer's opinions
concerning the position, prospects, and progress of American women.
* * * * *
_The Ideal of Man and Woman in America._--"The ideal of the men of
America seems to me to be, purity of intention, decision in will,
energy in action, simplicity and gentleness in demeanor. Hence it is
that there is something tender and chivalric in his behavior to women,
which is infinitely becoming to him. In every woman he respects his own
mother.
"In the same way it appeared to me that the ideal of the women of
America, of the women of the New World, is independence in character,
gentleness of demeanor and manner. The American's ideal of happiness
seems to me to be, marriage and home, combined with public activity.
"Of the American home, I have seen enough and heard enough for me to be
able to say that the women have, in general, all the rule there that
they wish to have. Woman is the centre and lawgiver in the homes of the
New World, and the American man loves that it should be so. I must,
however, say, that in the happy homes in which I lived, I saw the wife
equally careful to guide herself by the wishes of her husband, as he
was to indulge her; affection and sound reason make all things equal."
* * * * *
_Female Education in America._--"The educational institutions for
women are, in general, much superior to those of Europe, and perhaps
the most important work which America is doing for the future of
humanity, consists in her treatment and education of woman. Woman's
increasing value as a _teacher_, and the employment of her as such
in public schools, even in those for boys, is a public fact in these
States; which greatly delights me. Seminaries have been established
to educate her for this vocation. It even seems as if the daughters
of New England had a peculiar faculty and love for this employment.
Young girls of fortune devote themselves to it. The daughters of poor
farmers go to work in the manufactories a sufficient time to earn the
necessary sum to put themselves to school, and thus to become teachers
in due course. Whole crowds of school teachers go from New England to
the Western and Southern States, where schools are established and
placed under their direction. In the schools for young ladies, they
learn the classics, mathematics, physics, algebra, with great case, and
pass their examination like young men. Not long since, a young lady in
Nantucket,[D] not far from Boston, distinguished herself in astronomy;
discovered a new planet, and received in consequence a medal from the
King of Denmark."--Vol. i. pp. 190, 191.
* * * * *
_Woman the Physician for her own Sex._--"When one reflects how
important for future generations is the proper estimation of the woman
and the child, how much depends upon diet, upon that fostering which
lies beyond the sphere of the physician and his oversight, and which
woman alone can rightly understand, who can doubt the importance of the
female physician, in whose case science steps in to aid natural sense,
and to constitute her the best helper and counsellor of women and
children? That women have a natural feeling and talent for the vocation
of physician, is proved by innumerable instances from the experience of
all ages and people, and it is a shame and a pity that men have not,
hitherto, permitted these to be developed by science.
* * * * *
"In the old times, the physician was also the priest, and consecrated
to holy mysteries. The descendants of Æsculapius were considered a
holy race, and among them were also women; the daughter of Æsculapius
Hygeia, one of them, was called the Goddess of Health. Of this race
came Hippocrates. We now talk about Hygeia, but we only talk. She must
be recalled to earth, she must have room given her, and justice done
her, if she is to present the earth with a new Hippocrates."--Vol. i.
pp. 143, 144.
* * * * *
_Family Affections in America._--"The family relationship between
parents and children seems to me particularly beautiful, especially
as regards the parents towards the children. The beautiful maternal
instinct is inborn in the American woman, at least, in all its fervent,
heart-felt sentiment; and better and more affectionate family-fathers
than the men of America, I have seen no where in the world. They
have in particular a charming weakness for--daughters, and God bless
them for it! I hope the daughters may know how to return it with
interest."--Vol. i. p. 337.
* * * * *
_The American Thanksgiving._--"After breakfast, we went to church, for
this day (Thanksgiving) is as sacred throughout the country.
* * * * *
"Why have not we, why have not all people such a festival in the year?
It has grown here out of the necessities of the nobler popular heart;
it is the ascribing of our highest earthly blessings to their heavenly
Giver. We, in Sweden, have many publicly appointed days for prayer, but
none for Thanksgiving; it is not right and noble."
* * * * *
Such was Miss Bremer's appreciation of our Thanksgiving Festival,
and thus it will be approved and followed in all Christendom, when
the popular heart and voice shall bear sway. A national Thanksgiving
Day!--If this could once be established in our own land, Americans
would soon introduce its observance and cheerful festivities into
every part of the world where they are found, and thus, our American
Thanksgiving would be the example for all people.
_The last Thursday in November_ has these advantages--harvests of all
kinds are then gathered in--summer travellers have returned to their
homes--the diseases that, during summer and early autumn, often afflict
some portions of our country, have ceased, and all are prepared to
enjoy a day of Thanksgiving. The unanimity was nearly perfect last
November; still it would be better to have the _day_ so fixed by the
expression of public sentiment that no discord would be possible,
but, from Maine to Mexico, from Plymouth Rock to Sunset Sea, the hymn
of thanksgiving should be simultaneously raised, as the pledge of
brotherhood in the enjoyment of God's blessings during the year. How
this national festival can be made sure, we must leave to those who
have the guidance of public affairs; but we do earnestly desire to see
the _last Thursday in November_ become the fixed time for this American
jubilee.
* * * * *
A TRUE HEROINE.--Margaret of Valois, sister of Francis I. of France,
was the most celebrated woman of the seventeenth century, and
deservedly esteemed for her piety as well as great talents. Theodore
de Bèze thus eulogizes Margaret: "Her name is worthy of perpetual
honor, on account of her piety and the holy zeal she manifested for the
advancement and preservation of the Church of God, so that to her we
owe the life of many a good man."
To Margaret, also, is due the glory of elucidating the true principles
of royal government, which no man of that age understood or taught.
She says: "Kings and princes are not the masters and lords of the
multitude, but only ministers whom God has established to serve and
protect them."
* * * * *
AN EXCELLENT EXAMPLE.--A school for street children has recently been
established in Brooklyn, N. Y., by an association of ladies, which is
supported entirely by voluntary contribution. In order to induce the
children to attend regularly, a good dinner is provided every day. The
number of scholars--all girls--at the present time, is thirty.
This plan might be adopted in every city, and thus the saddest sorrow
of humanity, the sufferings of childhood from the want, ignorance, or
wickedness of their parents be greatly alleviated. Christian ladies of
Philadelphia, will you not enter on this good work?
* * * * *
TO CORRESPONDENTS.--The following articles are accepted, and will
appear as we have room: "Vesuvius," "Niagara," "Little Effie," "The
Maniac's Parting Salute," "The Lady Doctor," "A Patient of the Insane
Hospital," "The Last Banquet of the Girondists," "The Wanderer's
Return," "The Was, and the Is," "I was robbed of my Spirit's Love,"
"Mary," and "Home, Sister, Home."
The following articles are declined: "Idylls," "The Venetian Girl,"
"I'm Sad," "Woman's Heart," "André's Prayer to Washington," "The
Angel's Whisper," "Lines to a Bride," "True Love for True Love," "Cui
Bono?" "The Future," "A Tradition of Sicily," and "Morning Dreams."
A number of articles on hand have not been examined, for want of time.
The writers will, we trust, wait patiently another month.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote C: "Homes of the New World;" published by the Harpers--and
the last edition destroyed by the fire that consumed their warehouses.]
[Footnote D: Miss Mitchell. See "Woman's Record," by Mrs. Hale.]
Literary Notices.
BOOKS BY MAIL.--Now that the postage on printed matter is so low, we
offer our services to procure for our subscribers or others any of the
books that we notice. Information touching books will be cheerfully
given by inclosing a stamp to pay return postage.
* * * * *
From HENRY CAREY BAIRD (successor to E. L. Carey), No. 7 Hart's
Buildings, Sixth Street above Chestnut, Philadelphia:--
SPECIMENS OF THE BRITISH POETS; _with Biographical and Critical
Notices, and an Essay on English Poetry_. By Thomas Campbell, Esq.
This is a new edition, revised and with additional notes, of a work
which has long since passed the ordeal of criticism unscathed. Nothing
more remains to us, therefore, than to notice the beautiful appearance
of the present edition, with its appropriate illustrations, elegant
binding, and attractive typography. But of this few need be told. Mr.
Baird's poetical publications are already celebrated.
* * * * *
From BLANCHARD & LEA, Philadelphia:--
ON THE USE AND ABUSE OF ALCOHOLIC LIQUORS IN HEALTH AND DISEASE. By
William B. Carpenter, M. D., F. R. S., Examiner in Physiology in the
University of London, Professor of Medical Jurisprudence in University
College, etc. With a preface by D. F. Condie, M. D., Secretary of the
College of Physicians of Philadelphia, etc. The author of this essay
takes strong ground against the habitual use of alcoholic liquors,
even in moderate quantities. Medically, he favors their employment
in certain cases; but with the same precautions that are observed
in administering "any other powerful remedy which is poisonous in
large doses." With a view to its circulation as an auxiliary in the
temperance cause, Dr. Condie, the American editor, has added to the
popular elements of the work by explaining concisely, yet clearly, its
technical language; while Messrs. Blanchard & Lea have prepared copies
in flexible cloth, suitable for mailing, which they will forward, free
of postage, to any part of the United States, on receipt of fifty
cents. For $30, one hundred copies may be obtained, the purchaser to
pay freight charges.
A HISTORY OF ROMAN CLASSICAL LITERATURE. By R. W. Browne, M. A., Ph.
D., Prebendary of St. Paul's, and Professor of Classical Literature in
King's College, London. Unlike the generality of works of its class,
this volume is not made up wholly of the names of authors and the
titles of their works. These, however, it does not omit; but there is
nothing dry or uninteresting in their enumeration. Well adapted for the
use of classes in schools, it need not be shunned by such readers as
desire a graceful style and entertaining narrative, while they would be
fully informed with regard to the subject upon which it treats.
* * * * *
From LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO, & CO. (successors to Grigg & Elliot), No. 14
North Fourth Street, Philadelphia:--
LINES FOR THE GENTLE AND LOVING. By Thomas MacKellar. A modest-looking,
but charmingly printed little collection of unpretending poems, which,
though they may not possess the sublimer elements of poesy, are
nevertheless well calculated to touch the heart and excite it to tender
and generous action.
A DICTIONARY OF DOMESTIC MEDICINE AND HOUSEHOLD SURGERY. By Spencer
Thomson, M. D. First American from the last London edition. Revised,
with additions, by Henry H. Smith, M. D. A work of this kind should
be found in every family. It would prove an invaluable assistant to
a mother, or those who have the care of the family. Diseases are
described simply and clearly; all the ordinary medicines are treated
of, and their use explained; and, although it by no means takes the
place of the physician, yet it would be of great use in an innumerable
number of cases, especially where the aid and advice of a medical
practitioner cannot be readily obtained. The names of the compiler and
editor are a sufficient guarantee for the correctness of the work.
* * * * *
From LINDSAY & BLAKISTON, Philadelphia:--
THE PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE; _or, Transcendental Gastronomy. Illustrated
by Anecdotes of Distinguished Artists and Statesmen of both Continents
(Europe and America)_. By Brillat Savarin. Translated from the
last Paris edition, by Fayette Robinson. A book for epicureans,
gastronomists, and the admirers of Parisian wit; but one which, with
all its peculiar merits, we cannot consider an extremely desirable
addition to our translated literature.
* * * * *
From LEARY & GETZ, No. 138 North Second Street, Philadelphia:--
THE LIFE AND SPEECHES OF HENRY CLAY. Two volumes in one. In this
very heavy volume of more than a thousand pages, we have a succinct
narrative, somewhat partisan in its tone, of the career of the great
statesman and orator, together with full and correct reports of all his
more important speeches, from that "On the Line of the Perdido," to the
later effort in support of the "Compromise Bills."
* * * * *
From WILLIS P. HAZARD, No. 178 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia:--
THE AMERICAN FAMILY ROBINSON; _or, the Adventures of a Family Lost in
the Great Desert of the West_. By D. W. Belisle. With illustrations.
Aside from its interest as a tale abounding in strange and stirring
adventures, with which the young cannot fail to be delighted, this
volume will prove attractive to "the larger growth" of children, as one
imparting in a pleasant way all the existing knowledge with regard to
those antiquities of the Great West which render it wellnigh certain
that those wilds were once peopled--centuries ago, perhaps--with a race
infinitely more cultivated than the restless, barbarous tribes that now
wander there. Pleased with the design and execution of the literary
portion of this entertaining work, we must also notice the beautiful
appearance of its typography and binding, and the excellence of its
four steel plate illustrations.
* * * * *
From D. APPLETON & CO., No. 200 Broadway, New York, through C. G.
HENDERSON & CO., corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, Philadelphia:--