second-floor level. The forebuilding which covers it is the finest in
England. It is in fair preservation, all but its roofs and part of
its east wall, which are modern. As at Rochester, it is of masonry
inferior to the keep, at least outside, and there is no cordon at the
base of its pilasters, but it contains within more ornamental work than
the keep, with which it is so intimately connected that it cannot be
an addition. In the north-east and south-west angles of the keep are
well-staircases remarkably commodious and well lighted. They are 14
feet 6 inches in diameter, the stairs being 6 feet 6 inches and the
newel 1 foot 6 inches. They rise from the basement to the roof by 114
steps, and communicate with each floor, the two lower by lobbies, the
upper and upper gallery by branching passages. From the north-east
lobbies doors open into the two tiers of vaults below the upper
part of the forebuilding. The extraordinary thickness of the walls
is intended to allow of the construction of a very unusual number of
mural chambers, of which there are altogether twenty-seven. Besides the
main entrance there seems to have been one at the first-floor level,
also from the forebuilding. Others have since been made, one probably
in the fourteenth century, direct into the basement, and another very
recently into the base of the south-western staircase. Besides these,
divers loopholes have been converted into doors, to give external
entrance to the basement mural chambers which are used as water-tanks
and powder-magazines.
[Illustration: DOVER CASTLE.]
[Illustration: DOVER KEEP.
FIRST FLOOR.
BASEMENT.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.]
The _basement_.—There is some doubt about the original level of this
floor. At present it is 9 feet above the ground outside, but it
contains two doors, the sills of which are 6 feet or 8 feet below the
floor, and on opening the ground near the centre of the keep a pavement
was found at the same level, so that the floor may have been filled in
with earth and raised. If so, however, there must have been some kind
of stair to supplement the well staircases, for the floor of their
lobbies is certainly at its original level. The cross-wall between the
two chambers is pierced by three plain round-headed arches of 11 feet
opening.
The east chamber, 50 feet by 20 feet, has in its north end a deep
recess, and a loop up to which the sill is stepped, while the arch
overhead rises as the recess contracts. It is evident that the recess
at the south end was similar, but has been converted into a doorway.
This is the opening in general use, from the first landing of the
exterior staircase. The wall here is 24 feet thick, and there are
rebates for two doors, with bars within each. The arches are segmental
and the angles rounded off. The alteration seems to have been made in
the Decorated period, with a trace of later work. Close east of this
door, and 6 feet below it, is another door, now partially concealed,
which led into a vault 28 feet by 15 feet, occupying the south-east
angle of the building. In its south wall a door leads into a second
vault, 23 feet by 15 feet, below the lower vestibule and chapel. Each
vault had a loop towards the east. They are now used as water-tanks,
and reached by external openings. Returning to the east chamber, in
its east wall are two doors, one at its north end and one near the
middle, now blocked up. The northern door opens into the lobby of the
north-east staircase, and from it a door led into a vault 28 feet by 12
feet, in the forebuilding, now used as a magazine, and entered through
the outer wall. The middle door probably led into another vault, of
which nothing is known. Thus at the ground level of the forebuilding
there are three, if not four vaults, all originally entered from the
keep. They are about 6 feet high to the arch-springing.
The west chamber, 50 feet by 16 feet, has a large recess and loop in
each end, and in the west wall two doors, one opening into the lobby of
the south-western staircase, where is the modern door, and the other,
now blocked up, which led into a mural chamber 39 feet long by 12 feet
broad, now a powder-magazine, and entered from the outside.
The first floor also contains two main rooms which communicate by a
small door near the north end of the cross-wall.
The east chamber, 53 feet by 22 feet, has a recess 7 feet wide in
its south end, which ended in a loop, now converted into a window.
In its right or west jamb is a fireplace; in its left a door opening
into a mural chamber 18 feet by 11 feet, with a loop to the south,
and from the east end of which a door opens upon a staircase of the
forebuilding. This door and the window above it are of Tudor date, but
there are indications that there was an original door here, of which
the Tudor frame is a replacement. In the exterior wall is an arch of
relief in fine ashlar, which matches in size with the vault within, and
looks as though intended to protect an original door. In the east wall
of the great chamber is a door opening into the lobby, in which six
steps descend to the north-east staircase. From this lobby a door leads
into a vault 24 feet by 12 feet, with a recess in its north and south
walls, and a loop in its east end. From this a short passage leads into
a second vault, 17 feet by 2 feet, with a loop to the north. These two
vaults are placed below the upper vestibule and great guard-room of
the forebuilding. In the north wall of the great chamber, at the east
end, a small door opens into a mural gallery, 16 feet by 4 feet, with a
loop to the north, and which ends in a chamber 5 feet by 6 feet, also
with a loop to the north. Above this gallery is a recess 7 feet wide,
raised about 10 feet from the floor, to clear the gallery. Its loop is
replaced by a modern window.
The west chamber, 52 feet by 20 feet, has also a 7-feet recess in
its south end, with a modern window, and in its east jamb a door
opening into a mural chamber, 13 feet by 9 feet, with a south loop,
and a fireplace in the east wall. This, and the fireplace already
mentioned, are placed back to back, and, though with Tudor fittings,
may possibly be original. In the north wall of the great chamber is a
high recess and window, similar to that in the east chamber. In the
west wall are four openings; that at its north end opens into a chamber
in the north-west angle, 23 feet by 10 feet, with loops to the west
and south. From it branches a passage 18 feet by 4 feet, in the north
wall, which leads under the high window recess to a chamber 7 feet by
6 feet. Both passage and chamber have loops to the north. Next follows
a window recess of 6-feet opening at the floor level, rising by four
steps to the modern window; then a door opening into a mural chamber,
20 feet by 9 feet, with a fireplace in the east wail and two loops to
the west. Finally is a door opening upon the lobby which leads to the
south-west staircase, rising three steps, and having a loop to the
west. Besides the three fireplaces in mural chambers, there were two
others under arches of 12 feet span, one in the centre of each face of
the cross-wall. These, however, are closed up. In the same wall, at the
north end, is a door between the two chambers.
[Illustration: DOVER KEEP.
SECOND FLOOR GALLERY.
SECOND FLOOR.
Wyman & Sons, Gᵗ. Queen Sᵗ. London.]
The second floor is the main or state floor of the building, and
that into which opens the great entrance. As in the keeps of London,
Rochester, and Hedingham, it had two tiers of windows, the upper
passing through a mural gallery. Early in the present century this
floor was covered in by two large brick vaults, slightly pointed. The
object was to convert the ramparts into a platform for cannon. This
clumsy addition completely conceals the upper half of the walls and
destroys the effect of two very fine chambers.
The east chamber, 55 feet by 24 feet, is entered on the east side, near
the north end, by a large, full-centred doorway, flanked outside by
nook shafts. From this a vaulted passage, 5 feet broad, traverses the
wall, here 16 feet thick, and descends by eight steps into the main
chamber. This inconvenient height was evidently given to secure headway
for the vault below the vestibule. In the entrance passage, on the left
or south side, a door opens into the well chamber, a vault, 16 feet
by 8 feet, with a loop to the east upon the great staircase. At the
south end of the vault, upon a step, is the well, 4 feet diameter and
289 feet deep, lined, as far as can be seen, with ashlar. In the east
wall is a recess for a spare bucket. Near the entrance, at the north
end of the east wall of the great chamber, a door leads into a curved
passage which descends eleven steps into the north-east staircase. At
the south end of the same wall a large arch, 5 feet above the floor,
opens into a mural chamber 8 feet by 7 feet. This arch has been reduced
by modern brickwork, to support the great vault. In the same chamber a
loop opens upon the grand staircase, and in the south wall is a door
and a descent by eight steps towards the chapel. It is possible that
the loop was originally a small door leading into the upper floor of
the middle tower of the forebuilding, and that thence, in Tudor days, a
small wooden gallery led to the north door of the ante-chapel. In the
south end of the great chamber is a window recess of 7 feet, opening
with nearly flat sides. In its west jamb is a fireplace, in the east a
door leading into a mural vault 18 feet by 12 feet, over that by which
the first floor is entered. This vault has a loop to the east upon
the great staircase, on the north the eight steps, already mentioned,
and in the south wall a narrow door and mural passage leading to the
robing-room and ante-chapel. In the north end of the great chamber,
near the north-east corner, a door opens into a chamber 7 feet by 5
feet, which lies in the north wall below the window recess, here of 8
feet opening.
The west chamber, 55 feet by 21 feet, has in its south end a window
recess 7 feet broad, in the east wall of which a door opens into
a mural chamber 14 feet by 9 feet, with a loop to the south and a
fireplace in the east wall. In the west wall of the great chamber is a
window recess 5 feet wide, commencing at the floor level, and there are
three doors. That at the north end opens into a chamber, 22 feet by 9
feet, in the west angle, with loops to the west and north. From this
opens a passage in the north wall 17 feet long, which ends in a chamber
11 feet by 5 feet; chambers and passage have loops to the north. Near
the centre of the west wall of the great chamber a door opens into
another mural chamber, 22 feet by 14 feet, with two loops to the west
and a fireplace in the east wall. Another door leads, by a curved
passage with a loop to the west, into the south-west staircase. In the
great cross-wall is a door near its north end, and in each of its faces
two large fireplaces, now walled up. In the north wall is a high window
or recess of 8 feet opening.
The main gallery, though it threads the wall nearly all round, lies
at different levels, and at one point is stopped. It is entered from
the two staircases. That at the north-east gives off two branches, of
which one rises by fourteen steps, with a loop to the north, and enters
a passage in the north wall 16 feet long, having a loop to the north,
and to the south an opening, now blocked up, into the great chamber.
The passage ends in a chamber 18 feet by 8 feet, in the north wall of
which is a loop, and near it a deep recess for a garderobe; and in the
south wall is what seems to be the mouth of a gallery threading the
cross-wall, where, however, it would be stopped, or very much reduced,
by the shafts of the fireplaces. The other branch from the north-east
staircase rises by six steps, when it gives off a branch to the east
of nine steps, which lead to the roof of the upper tower of the
forebuilding. The main passage then curves and rises ten steps more,
in all sixteen steps, when it enters the substance of the east wall,
where it is 60 feet long and 4 feet 7 inches broad, and has a door to
the east, opening on the middle tower of the forebuilding, and a loop,
and opposite to these are two openings in the west wall, which formerly
opened into the great chamber, and now are blocked by the brick vault.
The passage then turns and lies for 67 feet in the south wall. In its
east end is a loop; in its south wall, there 10 feet thick, a door
opening upon the roof of the lower tower of the forebuilding. In the
same wall are two, and probably three loops, opposite to two of which
seem to have been openings into the great chamber. The third is much
broken. In the inner wall is a recess, probably the mouth of the
cross-wall gallery. At its west end the main gallery descends twenty
steps to reach the south-east staircase. From this staircase, at twenty
steps higher up, a door opens into the gallery, which is continued
along the west wall 68 feet. It has three loops in the outer wall,
opposite to two of which are apertures, now closed, which looked into
the great chamber. This gallery is continued 15 feet, with a width of 6
feet, in the north wall.
The roof of the keep is now an artillery platform, pierced on the south
by six and on the west by five embrasures, the top of the pilasters
forming a bay in the centre of each face. The two other faces are
solid, and protected by guns “en barbette.” Of the four turrets, which
are 21 feet square, with two entrances on each face, the two to the
south have entrance stairs, and doors from the stair-head open in the
side of those at the north-east and south-west angles. The north-west
turret seems to be entered by an opening in its east face. Though
these turrets have been much pulled about, their substance seems
original.
The forebuilding covers the whole of the east and about 45 feet of the
adjacent south face of the keep. Its breadth ranges from 15 feet to
23 feet. It was strengthened by three towers, one over the north end
or top of the staircase, one over the south-east angle or bottom, and
one on the east front over the middle of the staircase. The middle
tower, in which was the middle doorway, is unusual. These rose to about
four-fifths of the height of the main building, and their battlements
were reached, as has been shown, by doors from the upper gallery.
The object of this forebuilding was to contain and protect the great
staircase, and in it are three vestibules, a lower and upper chapel,
and an ante-chapel, several mural chambers, and a well. The entrance
at this time begins from the ground on the south front by an open
staircase of ten steps, probably modern, as the original ascent seems
to have been against and parallel to the keep wall. At the top of these
steps is a landing, upon which opens the present entrance into the
basement floor. The staircase then turns to the right and rises eleven
steps, still open, having on the left the keep and on the right the
flanking projection of the forebuilding, in which is the lodge, and
above it the robing-room. In front is a lofty doorway, 7 feet wide,
with a segmental arch, quite plain, and above it a loop which opens
from the chapel passage. This was the lower entrance, and was closed
by a barred door. Entering the doorway, eleven steps under cover lead
to the lower vestibule, which is thirty-two steps, or 20 feet, above
the ground. This vestibule is a handsome chamber, 15 feet by 12 feet,
with an arcade of two arches in its south wall, each pierced for a
loop. In the west wall, near the entrance, is the door of the lodge, a
plain barrel-vaulted chamber, 13 feet by 6 feet, having a loop to the
west. In the east wall of the vestibule is an arch of 7 feet opening,
springing from coupled columns and flanked by two others. The head
is moulded with the chevron pattern. This arch opens into the lower
chapel, 14 feet by 13 feet, which occupies the south-eastern angle of
the building, and is so placed that the altar could be seen if desired
by each person who entered the keep. In its north and south walls are
arcades of two arches, divided by a pier carrying two nook shafts and
a third shaft in the centre. In the south-east arch is a loop, and
opposite to it a cupboard. In the east end is also a loop, placed in
a recess flanked by two shafts. The floor of this chapel is one step
above the vestibule. The ceiling of both was flat, and of timber.
Beneath chapel and vestibule is the vault already described. The walls
of this part of the forebuilding are from 2 feet 6 inches to 5 feet
thick.
From the vestibule a doorway, the second, opens in the north wall.
This has a segmental head, and is original, but it has been reduced in
breadth, probably when the basement door was opened, by the insertion
of new jambs. It opens into a vaulted passage, 6 feet wide and 5 feet
long, being the thickness of the north wall of the lower tower. It is
occupied by three steps and a landing, from which four steps ascend
into the middle vestibule. This is a chamber 25 feet long by 15 feet
broad, having a modern roof and two modern windows in its east wall,
which has been in part rebuilt. On the left, on entering, is a Tudor
doorway, and above it a square-headed window of two lights, of the same
date. This opens into a mural chamber already described, and thence
into the first floor of the keep. A large arch of relief is seen above
in the wall, and it is probable that there was always a door here.
Beyond this door the staircase rises by twelve steps to a broad landing
at the end of the vestibule. Besides the Tudor doorway and window, on
the same side, higher up, are loops from two mural chambers of the
second floor of the keep, and in the south wall over the stairs a small
door, not now used, which opens into the ante-chapel. In the north wall
of this vestibule, a doorway of 5 feet opening, the third in order
upon the stairs, opens into a passage 6 feet wide, which pierces the
wall of the middle tower, here 6 feet thick, the whole tower being 14
feet. From this doorway a flight of twenty steps, 8 feet wide, ascends
into the upper vestibule, to a large landing 19 feet by 14 feet. The
vestibule itself is 25 feet by 14 feet, and lies between the middle
and upper tower of the forebuilding. In the east wall, which has been
rebuilt with the roof, are two modern windows. In the south wall a
narrow passage, 10 feet long by 3 feet broad, leads to the outer well,
the ashlar pipe of which is 4 feet diameter. It seems to have been used
in modern times as a cesspit, and is choked up. The well is placed in
the centre of the tower, which seems to have been a mass of masonry. At
present the wall round the well has been broken away so as to form a
rude chamber. It cannot now be ascertained whether the well stopped at
this level, as is probable, or was carried up to the roof of the tower.
In the north end of the vestibule, looking down upon the staircase, a
door leads into a vaulted guard-chamber, 16 feet by 10 feet, with loops
to the north and east, and a deep recess in the west wall. In the west
wall of the vestibule is the great door of the keep and a loop from the
well-chamber. There are traces on this wall of ashlar, as though it was
originally intended to vault and groin this vestibule.
In the forebuilding, on the level of the second floor of the keep,
remain to be mentioned the robing-room, ante-chapel, and chapel. They
are placed in the lower tower of the forebuilding over the lodge,
vestibule, and lower chapel, and were entered only from the keep,
through the mural chamber already described. From this chamber a
passage, only 2 feet 5 inches broad, lies in the wall over the outer
doorway, and from it a loop opens over the staircase, outwards. This
passage, 17 feet long, ends in two small doors, right and left, one
entering the robing-room, the other the ante-chapel. Originally this
was the only way into the chapel, and a very stout person could
scarcely have reached it. The Plantagenet princes, though mostly big in
the bones, were rarely corpulent. The robing-room is over the lodge.
It is 10 feet by 7 feet, vaulted, groined, and ribbed; the ribs are
of plain roll section, and there is no boss. They spring from nook
shafts at the four angles. There are loops, or rather small windows,
of a foot opening to the west and south, flanked by small columns. The
ante-chapel, 16 feet by 13 feet, has an arcade of two arches in the
north and south walls, and a loop in the north-east space, converted
into a small door, so as to give a separate entrance. In the east
wall an arch of 8 feet span opens into the chapel. It springs from
coupled columns, flanked on each face by two others, and the arch has
a chevron moulding. The floor was of timber, and rested on five beams.
The roof is vaulted, groined, and ribbed, and the moulding a roll with
a band of dog-tooth. The chapel is 14 feet by 13 feet. It is peculiar
in its position, being placed over the base of the entrance stair,
instead of, as at Middleham, at its head. It also has an arcade of two
arches in the north and south walls, with nook shafts in pairs at the
angles behind which, from a corbel capital, spring the ribs of the
vaulted roof. These are of a roll section with a band of the dog-tooth
ornament, and a central flowered boss. There is a small east window,
and also south of it a piscina with a trefoiled head and projecting
basin, now broken off. This seems a Decorated addition. There are two
loops in the south wall, and one in the north near the east end, and in
the other north bay a cupboard. The floor was of timber, resting upon
four joists.
The material of this keep is chiefly the rag stone of the country
worked as rubble, not very regularly coursed. Ashlar, mostly of Caen
stone, is used freely for the door and window dressings and the
quoins. The joints are close. The pilasters are of unusual breadth and
projection. The chapels and the lower vestibule are highly ornate,
with much of the chevron and roll mouldings, and occasionally of the
dog-tooth. The arches are sometimes segmental, but more commonly full
centred. There is no portcullis in the building; the entrances were
closed with doors only, secured with wooden bars. None of the loops
that open on the staircase could be used in its defence. Excepting
about the main door there is no ornamentation in the keep itself.
Doors, windows, and fireplaces seem to have been quite plain. This
is the only known keep in which there is a second well, and it is
difficult to understand why there should be two so near together, the
expense of making which must have been so great. The upper gallery is
of very rude masonry indeed; the lines of the passages do not coincide
with the general direction of the walls, and the execution is very
inferior. It is unfortunate, with ample buildings all round, that
the authorities should pervert this very curious keep to vulgar and
dangerous uses. The stores should be kept elsewhere, and the brick
vaulting and additions be removed. The external breaches and doors in
the walls should be closed, the second well cleared out, and the whole
building as far as possible restored to its original condition. It
might then be fitted up as a museum of arms, and every part, including
the ward, made accessible. The reputed date of this keep is 1153,
when the foundations are said to have been laid by Henry, grandson of
Henry I., shortly before he succeeded to the throne. This coincides
sufficiently well with the evidence of the building itself, which is
late in the Norman style.
The general view here added is taken from the north, and shows the
constable’s gate and bridge, and in the foreground the towers and
curtains of the outer ward on this side. Immediately behind them are
seen the square towers and the curtain of the inner, or Norman ward,
and within all rises the keep, applied to the east side of which are
seen the three towers of the forebuilding.
DUNSTER CASTLE, SOMERSET.