UP THE AMAZON AND MADEIRA RIVERS.
[Illustration: MAP TO ILLUSTRATE “UP THE AMAZON & MADEIRA RIVERS”
by E. D. MATHEWS, Assoc. Mem. Inst. C. E.
W. & A. K. Johnston, Edinburgh & London.
London: Sampson, Low, Marston, Searle & Rivington, 188, Fleet St.]
UP THE
AMAZON AND MADEIRA RIVERS,
THROUGH
BOLIVIA AND PERU.
BY
EDWARD D. MATHEWS,
ASSOC. MEM. INST. C.E.
LONDON:
SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE & RIVINGTON,
CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET.
1879.
(_All rights reserved._)
LONDON:
PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS,
STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.
DEDICATED TO COLONEL GEORGE EARL CHURCH, F.R.G.S., CHAIRMAN OF THE
MADEIRA AND MAMORÉ RAILWAY COMPANY, BY HIS OBLIGED AND FAITHFUL SERVANT
EDWARD D. MATHEWS, ASSOC. MEM. INST. C.E.
PREFACE.
A few years ago I was Resident Engineer of the projected Madeira and
Mamoré Railway, to be constructed in the Province of Matto Grosso, in
the Empire of Brazil, and as nearly as possible in the centre of the
Continent of South America. From various causes the prosecution of the
enterprise fell into abeyance for some considerable time. When the works
were temporarily stopped, several reasons combined to induce me to
return home by way of Bolivia and Peru. During that journey I kept up
my ordinary custom of keeping a rough diary, and I have since dressed
up my notes into something of a consecutive form. The resumption of
the railway works has led me to think that some interest would attach
to a description of a route across South America that has yet been but
little travelled over. It has also occurred to me, that nowadays, when
the Eastern trip to India, China, Japan, and home _viâ_ San Francisco
and New York, has been done by so many there may be adventurous spirits
in search of new worlds to conquer, who would be pleased to know of a
journey offering the combined attractions of canoeing on the magnificent
affluents of the Amazon and a journey in the saddle across the Andes. My
endeavour therefore has been to give all the information in my possession
regarding the method and expense of travelling over the route indicated.
In grateful remembrance of many kindnesses received, I have dedicated
my labours to the indefatigable worker who, for many years past, has
devoted his life to the noble enterprise of opening a way to the markets
of Europe for the many and varied products of the Republic of Bolivia and
the Province of Matto Grosso in the Empire of Brazil.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
CHAPTER I.
Brazilian coast—True and false Salinas—Dangers of the mouth of
the Amazon—Pará—Steamers on the Amazon—Amazon Steam Shipping
Company, Limited—Vicinity of Pará—European residents—Climate 1
CHAPTER II.
Bay of Marajo—Lighthouses—Rule of the road for
steamers—Vegetation on the Amazon—Rubber trees—Boa
Vista—Corralinha—Breves—Parainha—Gurupá—Mont
Alegre—Cattle-feeding grounds—River Tapajoz—Santarem—American
settlers—Obidos—Manufacture of charqui—Villa
Bella—Serpa—Navigation of the Amazon 7
CHAPTER III.
Manáos—Trade direct with Europe—Obelisk commemorating opening
of the river Amazon to all flags—Climate of Manáos—Absence
of mosquitoes—River Madeira—Rubber-collecting preferred
to agriculture—Mode of collection and preparation of the
rubber—Guaraná 12
CHAPTER IV.
Borba—Tobacco—Island of Araras—Piedras de
Uruás—Cachoerina—Exaltacion—Manicoré—Mundurucu
Indians—Marmélos—Bayetas—Juma—Mission of San Pedro—Crato—Old
penal settlement—Umaitá—Parententin Indians—Missionary efforts
unable to reclaim these savages—Praia of Tamandoa—Turtles—San
Antonio 18
CHAPTER V.
Madeira and Mamoré Railway—Ocean steamers can ascend to the
first rapid—Brazilian outposts—Difference between high and low
water below the rapid—Rainfall—Temperature—Scenery—Marks on
rocks—Glossy black deposit on rocks—Trees of the forest—Brazil
nuts—Alligators—Peixebois, pirahybas, pirarucus, and other
fish—Tapirs, how shot—Onças, and other animals—Birds, wild
turkeys, ducks, etc.—Insects, mosquitoes, ants, etc.—Snakes,
etc., etc. 23
CHAPTER VI.
Rapids of the Madeira River—Journey undertaken—Canoes, Indians,
and other requirements for the journey described—Articles good
for trading with savages—Provisions, etc. 32
CHAPTER VII.
A start made—Canoe heavily laden—San Antonio rapid passed—Slow
progress made—Method of passing over strong currents—The current
of Macacos—The Bay of Theotonio—Canoe nearly swamped in same—The
Falls of Theotonio—Fish at foot of falls—Franciscan mission to
the Pamas—The portage of Theotonio 39
CHAPTER VIII.
Currents above Theotonio—Loss of a small canoe—Theft of rum at
night by one of the Bolivian boatmen—The rapid of Morinhos—Crew
turn out to be very weak and slow—Plan for securing a good
crew—The river Yaci-Paraná—Morning fogs—Igarapé of the Caripuna
savages—Capitan Cinco’s Island—Buena Esperanza—Rations given to
the boatmen 45
CHAPTER IX.
The rapid of Calderão do Inferno—Attacks of fever and
vomiting—Caripuna savages—Death of a Bolivian boy—Earth-eating
practised by the Indians—Death of Mariano, a Bolivian
boatman—Peculiar custom prevailing amongst the Indians—The Falls
of Girão—Miseries of a wet night 51
CHAPTER X.
The rapid of Trés Irmãos—Meeting with the Pacaguara savages—The
river Trés Irmãos—Wild turkeys 57
CHAPTER XI.
San Louise—Track across the big bend of the river—Corrientes
and Remansos—The rapid of Paredão—Violence of one of the Indian
boatmen during a fit—The rapids of Pederneira—La Cruz—Probability
that the country is level in the interior on the right bank of
the river—As Penhas Coloradas 63
CHAPTER XII.
The rapid of Araras—Farinha and sardines for supper—Difficulty of
treating the Indians successfully when they are sick—The current
of Periquitos—Arrival at the Rabo do Ribeirão—The Bolivian
Indian’s chaunt at night—Passage of the Rabo do Ribeirão—Quantity
of farinha consumed by boatmen, in the form of “shebee”—Canoe
aground in the bay below the main fall of Ribeirão—The river
Ribeirão—The portage of Ribeirão—Curious marks on rocks 69
CHAPTER XIII.
Bad arrangements of the Bolivian patrons for rationing their
men—The rapid of Misericordia—Tradition attached thereto—Meeting
with canoes from Bolivia—The Madeira rapids and the junction of
the river Beni—Nomenclature of the river Madeira in its different
sections—The rapids of Layes—Wild cocoa trees—The Falls of Pao
Grande 78
CHAPTER XIV.
The river Yata—Meeting with another party descending from
Bolivia—The rapids of Bananeiras—Abandoned settlement—Variability
of the Bolivian character—The cabeçeiras of Bananeiras—The Sierra
da Paca Nova—The rapids of Guajará Guasu and Merim—A few hints on
leaving the last of the rapids 85
CHAPTER XV.
Start made up river above rapids with drums beating—The islands
of Cavalho Marinho—A party of Baure Indians met with—Rate of
progress calculated at two miles per hour—Otters, alligators, and
monkeys shot—Steam navigation practicable on the river above the
rapids—Stock taken of food-supplies left—Long hours worked 93
CHAPTER XVI.
Junction of the river Itenez—Short description of the Itenez
or Guaporé and its affluents—Fires at night prohibited on
account of savages—A capybara shot—Abundance of game above the
rapids—False alarms of attack by savages—Cooking-stove rigged
up in the canoe—The river Matocari—Hard work towing canoe—Open
pampas—Strong gale from the south hinders progress—Chocolotales
of Exaltacion—Falling banks—Estancia de Santiago—Value of oxen in
the Estancias of Mojos 102
CHAPTER XVII.
“El Cerrito”—Small steamer, the _Explorador_—“Taita Crusa”—The
town of Exaltacion—The fifteen missions of the Beni and the
tribes that belong to them—Some numerals and words in Mojeño,
Cayubaba, Canichana, and Yuracaré—Education of the Indians 119
CHAPTER XVIII.
Festival of St. John the Baptist—Water-throwing—Morning
mass—Church of La Exaltacion de la Santa Cruz—“Macheteros,”
or Soldiers of the Cross—Decrease of the Indians of the
Beni—Suggestions for the re-population of the department—A crew
for Trinidad obtained with difficulty—Desertion of an Indian
lad—Landslip and dangers of the port of Exaltacion—Changes in the
courses of the rivers—Richness of the soil—Prices of provisions 128
CHAPTER XIX.
Leave Exaltacion—Improvement in crew—Mobima Indians of Santa
Ana—“Mani” planted on sandbanks—The river Yacuma—Trading up
the Yacuma to Reyes, San Pablo, San Borja, etc.—Multitudes
of mosquitoes, etc.—Shoal of fish—Storks, ducks,
flamingoes—Canichana Indians—The river Apiri and the village
of San Ignacio—Poling over the shallows—The river Jamucheo—San
Pedro—Traders haul their canoes over a portage to San
Pedro—Weather turns very cold—The river Ybari—Arrival at Trinidad 139
CHAPTER XX.
Pampas of Trinidad—Oxen of the Beni—Merchants of
Trinidad—Carayanas—Cholos—Indios—Chicha, general drink in
Bolivia—Baile and Spanish dance—Bolivian drinking—Bolivian
peculiarities—The old maid’s black cat—Smallpox amongst the
Indians—Depopulation of Trinidad—Wages of the peons—Drills,
hammocks, shirts, and hats made by Indians—Prices of
provisions—Trade in Trinidad—Depreciated currency—Melgarejos 151
CHAPTER XXI.
Start from Trinidad with convoy of nine canoes—Hacienda de San
Antonio—Shifting of the river’s course—The river Securé—Bella
Vista, the port of Loreto—Siriono savages—State and ceremony
in preparation of meals—Excellent character of Bolivian
chocolate—Junction of the river Grande—River Piray—The
Mamoré left, and the Chapari entered—The Chimoré route to
Coni preferable to that of the Chapari—Class of steamers
suitable for the Upper Mamoré—Difficulties of navigation in the
Chapari—Scarcity of game—Number of Indians available in Trinidad
for navigation of the upper rivers—The raya fish—Jaguars—Mountain
ranges approached—Bamboo trees seen—The river Coni 165
CHAPTER XXII.
Coni and its trade—Yuracaré Indians—Their bark shirts,
ornaments, and dyes—Musical instruments—Tradition of Cain
and Abel—Difference between the Indians of the interior and
those of the plains—Bravery of the Yuracarés—Start from
Coni—Pachimoco—River San Antonio—Cristal Maio—Continuous
rains—Zinc-roofed houses—Coca plantations—Minas
Maio—Metalliferous character of district—Coffee and cotton—El
Chaco—Cuesta of Lina Tambo—Los Jocotales—Inca Corral—Cuesta de
Malaga—Snowstorms 185
CHAPTER XXIII.
Total change in the appearance of nature—Cochi-janchi—Barley
and potatoes—Chuño—Road to Coni by Bandiola—Sacába—Approach to
Cochabamba—Tambos—Apartments—The city and people—Luxuriously
furnished houses—Fruits, flowers, and grain crops—Douche
baths—Alaméda, or public garden—Sweets and ices—Tertulias and
rocking-chairs—Commercial firms and their trade—Cascarilla,
or cinchona bark—Hospitality of foreign residents
and others—Moonlight ride—Climate—Want of sanitary
arrangements—Mineral wealth of the district 212
CHAPTER XXIV.
Shortest route to the Pacific coast from Cochabamba—Journey
to Sucre _viâ_ Totora determined upon—Leave Cochabamba
in one of Haviland and Keay’s coaches—Dangers of the
journey—Tarata and Cliza—The pampas compared to the plains
of Central India—Punata—Señor Manuel Arauco, his house,
family, museum, etc.—Manufacture of felt hats, ponchos,
etc.—Arani—Lagoons near Vacas—Irrigation works—New road
between Arani and Totora—Pocona—Totora—Proposed road from
Totora to the river Chimoré—Probable future system of roads in
the east of Bolivia—Misque—Ravines and river-courses used as
roads—Aiquile—Chinguri—Quiroga—Palca—Cuestas Jaboncillo and
Masa-Cruz—Canto Molino—Thermal spring of Huata—First view of
Sucre 237
CHAPTER XXV.
Sucre—Seat of the Government—Court of Justice and
Archbishopric—Cathedral—Image of “Our Lady of Guadalupe”—Plate
and pictures—Revolting character of the pictures—The clergy
of Bolivia—Palacio del Gobierno—Sala del Congreso—Deputies
and Debates—Treaty with Chili—Diplomatic body—Politics and
parties—Quintin Quevedo—Casimir Corral—Sack of his house in La
Paz—Rojos, or Ballivianistas—Hilarion Daza—Schemes for roads
to the river Paraguay—River Amazon _v._ river Paraguay—Remarks
upon the finances of Bolivia—Results to be expected from
the enterprise of the Madeira and Mamoré Railway—Closing of
Congress—The Bolivian flag—Revolution of 1874—Defeat of Quevedo
and Corral, and deposition of Frias by Daza 260
CHAPTER XXVI.
The Prado of Sucre—Belzu’s Rotunda—The President’s evening
constitutional—Personal politics—Quevedo’s birthday
banquet—Dancing with the general—Ball at the Chilian
Embassy—Baile caramba!—Environs of Sucre—La Paz not visited
on account of revolution in progress—Routes to ocean and
home—Santa Cruz, Curumbá, and the Paraguay—Oran and the
Vermejo—Tarija and Cinti—Cinti wines and spirits—Cobija and
Desert of Atacama—Silver mines of Caracoles, etc.—Encroachments
by Chili—Official report on the Desert of Atacama, published by
the Government of Chili—Description of the road to Tacna and
Arica commenced—Preparations for journey—Servants and their
pay—“Postas”—Buying and selling mules—A few requisites for a land
journey 294
CHAPTER XXVII.
Leave Sucre under escort of English residents—Village of
Nutshucc—Yotala—“Quintas,” or farmhouses—Don Tomas Frias’
country-house—Señor Pacheco’s quinta—The river Cachimayo and
its basket bridge—Fever at Nutshucc—The river Pilcomayo—Terrado
and Pampa-tambo—Quebrada Honda—Bartolo—Potosí—The Soroche—The
Fonda Coca—The Cerro de Potosí—Silver mines—Reservoirs—Church
of La Matriz—The mint—New coinage—Burying money—Future of
mining in Potosí—Departure from Potosí—Tarapaya—Yocalla—Yocalla
bridge built by the devil in a night—Leñas—Loss of my aneroid
barometer—Vicuñas—Condors—Lagunillas—Tolapalca—Bolivian
Norfolk-Howards, or Vinchutas—Vilcapujio—Curious custom
of Indian women—Llamas and alpacas—Ancacata—The pampa of
Aullagas—The “Chulpas”—Catariri, Pazna and Poopo—Miserable
appearance of mining towns in Bolivia—Machacamarca—Rumours of
revolution—Beautiful mirage—Arrival at Oruro 313
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Oruro—Mineral districts and mining
operations—“Barilla”—Freighting ore by llamas—Future of mining
in Oruro—Attempted revolution in Oruro—Night attack on the
Quartel—Start from Oruro for Tacna—The river Desaguadero—The
ferry called La Barca—Llollia—Escape of the mules during
night—Indian cooking arrangements—Dress and appearance of Indian
men and women—El Cruzero—“Quinoa”—Heavy storms—Electrified
state of the atmosphere—Peculiar strata observed near El
Cruzero—Curahuara de Carangas—Its church, people, and parish
priest—Travelling jewellers—Mining prospects of the district 348
CHAPTER XXIX.
Pichagas—The peak of Sahama—Chocos—Capture of a sheep for
fresh meat—Ostriches—Sepulturas—Mortality amongst animals—Mule
attacked with belly pains—El Cerro del Volcan—Las Siete
Vueltas—Bright-coloured hills—Peru entered—Tacora—Mules attacked
with soroche—El Rio de Azufre—Aqueduct to Tacna from river
Maury—The pass of Chulancani—Apacheta of bones—Aspect of the
Pacific slope of the Andes—Projected railway between Tacna and La
Paz—The Portada—El Ingenio—Palca—New road in construction—Arrival
at Tacna—The hotel Bola de Oro—Tacna and its trade—Attempt to
sell the mules in Tacna—Railway from Tacna to Arica—Effects of
the great hurricane wave of 1869—Arica—By steamer from Arica to
Callao—Callao—Its magnificent harbour—Lima—The cathedral—Plaza
de Armas—Old bridge, built in 1608—Firemen—By steamer from
Lima to Panamá—Payta—Panamá—Severe fires—The prison—Rail to
Aspinwall—Aspinwall—Home by mail steamer 371
APPENDIX 399
LIST OF ENGRAVINGS.
PAGE
MAP _Frontispiece_
SAN ANTONIO—RIVER MADEIRA (LOOKING DOWN STREAM)[1] 25
GARITEA, OR TRAVELLER’S CANOE, RIVER MADEIRA[1] 33
CASCARA, OR BARK CANOE OF THE CARIPUNAS AND OTHER TRIBES OF
THE RIVER MADEIRA[1] 60
CURIOUS INSCRIPTIONS ON ROCKS AT DIFFERENT RAPIDS 77
INDIAN GIRL OF EXALTACION[1] 130
THE BATA[1] 143
SKETCHES OF TRINITARIO INDIANS[1] 153
NECKLACE OF BRIGHT RED BEANS[1] 188
GROUP OF BOLIVIAN MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS, ETC.[1] 189
AUTHOR, AND YURACARÉ INDIANS 191
VIEW OF COCHABAMBA 219
SUCRE, OR CHUQUISACA, CAPITAL OF BOLIVIA 258
GENERAL QUEVEDO 271
PRESIDENT FRIAS 290
EL CERRO DE POTOSÍ 322
YESCA AND MECHA HOLDER (POTOSÍ)[1] 326
A CHULPA[1] 343
QUICHUAN OVEN (LLOLLIA)[1] 360
QUICHUAN WOMAN OF LLOLLIA[1] 361
PASS OF TACORA 378
LA PORTADA 381
ANGOSTURA 383
FOOTNOTES
[1] From a sketch by the Author.
UP THE AMAZON AND MADEIRA RIVERS.
CHAPTER I.
Brazilian coast—True and false Salinas—Dangers of the mouth of
the Amazon—Pará—Steamers on the Amazon—Amazon Steam Shipping
Company, Limited—Vicinity of Pará—European residents—Climate.
After about twenty days’ steaming from Liverpool with southerly and
westerly courses, the low-lying coast of the north of Brazil appears, and
navigators who are not acquainted with the locality have considerable
trouble in making out the pilot station of the Salinas.
The false Salinas are about half a day’s steam to the east of the true,
which, again, are a few hours’ steam from the mouth of the Amazon River.
At the true Salinas there is a lighthouse and a small village, a large
red house, visible from the deck of the steamer, being the barrack in
which the pilots for Pará live.
The steamer in which I had a passage had been chartered specially for the
conveyance of the railway staff to which I belonged. The captain knew
nothing at all of the spot to which he had undertaken to navigate his
ship, and took the vessel considerably to the east of the Salinas; we
were therefore a night and a day coasting about in soundings. At dark, a
slight gale gave the sea the most phosphorescent appearance that, in the
course of a good many voyages, I have yet seen. Every wave, as it curled
over, broke in vivid phosphorescent fire, and it appeared as though we
were steaming through a sea of flaming spirits.
The mouth of the river Amazon has many shifting banks and reefs of which
no accurate information exists, and vessels are frequently lost in
attempting to get up to Pará without a pilot. In 1873, three vessels,
laden with iron for the Madeira and Mamoré railway, were lost, one after
another, on the reefs near the Braganza lightship, which had shifted from
her moorings and remained away from her station for many months. More
pilots are required at the station of Salinas, for it has often happened
that captains of vessels have got tired of beating about, waiting for a
pilot to come off, and have attempted to enter the river alone, only to
lose their vessels and cargoes.
The river Pará may be termed an outlet or arm of the river Amazon, and on
its right bank the city of Pará is situated. The land on the left bank
of the river forms the island of Marajo, which appears to be subject to
periodical inundations, but is valuable as a feeding-ground for cattle.
The rise and fall of the river at Pará is about twenty feet at highest
tides.
In front of the city the river affords splendid anchorage for almost
any amount of shipping, but the wharfage is very badly arranged, as
there is no pier or jetty at which vessels can unload, consequently much
time is lost in transhipping cargoes from the vessels into launches,
and from these to the wharves. The practice has been to build out these
wharves into the river at low water; and as each successive wharf has
been completed, the river has silted up its frontage, and so rendered
necessary the building of a new one further out. The “Rua da Praia,”
which doubtless was the “Street of the Shore” some fifty years ago, is
now the third line back from the river, and so the city is extending
itself out into the water instead of backwards into the country. A wharf
on screw piles, and a jetty with a cross-head wharf at its end, would
probably not cause the silting, and would not cost more, while it would
be more durable than the badly built stone walls that are now from time
to time put up in front of each other.
The bay of Pará presents a cheerful aspect, from the number of vessels
generally found there. The Red Cross line, owned and admirably maintained
by Messrs. Singlehurst, Brocklehurst & Co., of Liverpool, Booth’s line,
Garrison’s and another American line between Brazil and New York, all
touch at Pará, and the Amazon Steam Shipping Company, Limited, always
have some of their steamers lying in front of the wharves. The trade
of the Amazon valley is already sufficient to maintain a considerable
number of steamers in the river, the finest and largest of which, built
by Messrs. Laird and Co. of Birkenhead, were formerly owned by the Baron
Mauá. The Baron sold his steamers and workshops, with the subventions
from the Brazilian Government to the Amazon Steam Shipping Company,
Limited, formed in London a few years ago. This company, being desirous
of maintaining its purchased monopoly of the trade of the Amazon, has
bought up the two Brazilian companies that also traded on the river. One
was called the “Fluvial Paraense,” and traded from Pará to Manáos, and
to several small towns on the islands near Pará. This company’s boats
were all built by Messrs. Pusey, Jones & Co., of Delaware, on American
principles, with cabins on upper deck, and are very suitable for river
navigation. The other company was the “Alta Amazonas Company,” owners of
three or four small steamers, built by Laird & Co., that traded on the
upper waters of the Amazon, and on its confluents—the Madeira, Purus,
and Rio Negro. There are also several other steamers on the river, owned
by private firms, which pick up all the freights left by, and even give
great opposition to, the powerful English company. A new enterprise
has lately been started in London, with the object of placing tugs and
barges on the Amazon, and the Madeira and Mamoré Railway Company will
doubtless run its own craft between Pará and San Antonio, the terminus
of its railway on the Madeira River. The Amazon, therefore, is likely in
future years to bear a considerable increase of steam shipping on its
broad bosom, for attention seems to be almost universally directed to
the magnificent facilities that it offers, for the ready export to the
European markets of the produce of Northern Brazil, Peru, and Bolivia.
The city of Pará has not much to boast of in architecture; nevertheless,
from the river, it has an imposing appearance, from the number of its
churches. The convent of San Merced and the president’s palace, amongst
old buildings, and the new theatre, a very elegant structure, are all
worthy of notice. The streets are mostly broad and well paved, fairly
lighted with gas by an English company, and kept decently clean. There is
a very good market-place, and water is now being laid on to every house.
Excellent hired carriages ply, at moderate prices, for the accommodation
of the richer city merchants; while a tramway, worked by a locomotive and
cars, takes the humbler individual out to join his family circle in the
cooler districts of Nazareth, a very pretty suburb of Pará, where the
principal merchants have built many elegant villa residences. As most of
the roads run down avenues of very handsome palm trees, the effect of the
whole is charming. There are also two public gardens, maintained with a
good deal of taste.
The Europeans resident in Pará are extremely hospitable, and the staff
of engineers and others to which I was attached, took away with them to
the solitudes of the Madeira River most grateful recollections of the
kindness, attention, and good wishes bestowed on them during their stay
in Pará, more especially by the English and German consuls.
Pará does not enjoy a very good reputation for its climate, but I do not
think it is so bad as is generally supposed. It has a fair alternation
of wet and dry seasons, and the air is so pure that it is said that
persons suffering from consumption rapidly recover after a short stay
there. Yellow fever and small-pox sometimes linger a long time amongst
the lower classes, being maintained a good deal, I believe, by the
exhalations at low tides from the silted-up mud in front of the river
wall. As I have said, it is probable that this silting up could in future
be avoided by erecting a screw-piled pier instead of a wharf wall; and if
the country behind the town were cleared further inland, the plague of
mosquitoes might be materially decreased.
A trip up the Amazon is extremely pleasant, for the steamers of the
Amazon company are commanded by very accomplished and amiable Brazilian
captains. The table is very fairly found for one that can accustom
himself to Brazilian cookery, and a liberal ration of Portuguese “vino
verde” is supplied to passengers. The upper deck, covered with a
double-planked water-tight awning which protects one from the hot sun,
affords an agreeable lounge during the day, whilst at night it forms the
general dormitory where each passenger slings his hammock and mosquito
net, if he has been thoughtful enough to provide himself with these
indispensable articles of a travelling equipment for Brazil.