LETTER XI.

Trial Chamber at the Luxembourg.--Institute.--M.

Mignet.--Concert Musard.

As a great and especial favour, we have been taken to see the new

chamber that has been erected at the Luxembourg for the trial of the

political prisoners. The appearance of the exterior is very handsome,

and though built wholly of wood, it corresponds perfectly, to all

outward seeming, with the old palace. The rich and massive style of

architecture is imitated to perfection: the heavy balustrades, the

gigantic bas-reliefs, are all vast, solid, and magnificent; and when

it is stated that the whole thing has been completed in the space of

two months, one is tempted to believe that Alladdin has turned

doctrinaire, and rubbed his lamp most diligently in the service of the

state.

The trial-chamber is a noble room; but from the great number of

prisoners, and greater still of witnesses expected to be examined, the

space left for the public is but small. Prudence, perhaps, may have

had as much to do with this as necessity: nor can we much wonder if

the peers of France should desire to have as little to do with the

Paris mob upon this occasion as possible.

I remarked that considerable space was left for passages, ante-rooms,

surroundings, and outposts of all sorts;--an excellent arrangement,

the wisdom of which cannot be questioned, as the attendance of a large

armed force must be indispensable. In fact, I believe it ever has been

and ever will be found, that troops furnish the only means of keeping

a remarkably free people in order.

It was, however, very comforting and satisfactory to hear the manner

in which the distinguished and agreeable individual who had procured

us the pleasure of seeing this building discoursed of the business

which was to be carried on there.

There is a quiet steadiness and confidence in their own strength among

these doctrinaries, that seems to promise well for the lasting

tranquillity of the country; nor does it impeach either their wisdom

or sincerity, if many among them adhere heart and hand to the

government, though they might have better liked a white than a

tri-coloured banner to wave over the palace of its head. Whatever the

standers-by may wish or feel about future struggles and future

changes, I think it is certain that no Frenchman who desires the

prosperity of his country can at the present moment wish for anything

but a continuance of the tranquillity she actually enjoys.

If, indeed, democracy were gaining ground,--if the frightful political

fallacies, among which the very young and the very ignorant are so apt

to bewilder themselves, were in any degree to be traced in the policy

pursued by the existing government,--then would the question be wholly

changed, and every honest man in full possession of his senses would

feel himself called upon to stay the plague with all his power and

might. But the very reverse of all this is evidently the case; and it

may be doubted if any sovereign in Europe has less taste for license

and misrule than King Louis-Philippe. Be very sure that it is not to

him that the radicals of any land must look for patronage,

encouragement, or support: they will not find it.

After quitting the Luxembourg, we went to the _bureau_ of the

secretary at the Institute, to request tickets for an annual sitting

of the five Academies, which took place yesterday. They were very

obligingly accorded--(O that our institutions, our academies, our

lectures, were thus liberally arranged!)--and yesterday we passed two

very agreeable hours in the place to which they admitted us.

I wish that the Polytechnic School, when they took a fancy for

changing the ancient _régimes_ of France, had included the uniform of

the Institute in their proscriptions. The improvement would have been

less doubtful than it is respecting some other of their innovations:

for what can be said in defence of a set of learned academicians,

varying in age from light and slender thirty to massive and

protuberant fourscore, wearing one and all a fancy blue dress-coat

"embroidered o'er with leaves of myrtle"? It is really a proof that

very good things were said and done at this sitting, when I declare

that my astonishment at the Corydon-like costume was forgotten within

the first half-hour.

We first witnessed the distribution of the prizes, and then heard one

or two members speak, or rather read their compositions. But the great

fête of the occasion was hearing a discourse pronounced by M. Mignet.

This gentleman is too celebrated not to have excited in us a very

earnest wish to hear him; and never was expectation more agreeably

gratified. Combined with the advantages of a remarkably fine face and

person, M. Mignet has a tone of voice and play of countenance

sufficient of themselves to secure the success of an orator. But on

this occasion he did not trust to these: his discourse was every way

admirable; subject, sentiment, composition, and delivery, all

excellent.

He had chosen for his theme the history of Martin Luther's appearance

before the Diet at Worms; and the manner in which he treated it

surprised as much as it delighted me. Not a single trait of that

powerful, steadfast, unbending character, which restored light to our

religion and freedom to the mind of man, escaped him: it was a mental

portrait, painted with the boldness of outline, breadth of light, and

vigour of colouring, which mark the hand of a consummate master.

But was it a Roman Catholic who pronounced this discourse?--Were they

Roman Catholics who filled every corner of the theatre, and listened

to him with attention so unbroken, and admiration so undisguised? I

know not. But for myself, I can truly declare, that my Protestant and

reformed feelings were never more gratified than by listening to this

eloquent history of the proudest moment of our great apostle's life,

pronounced in the centre of Cardinal Mazarin's palace. The concluding

words of the discourse were as follows:

"Sommé pendant quatre ans de se soumettre, Luther, pendant quatre ans,

dit non. Il avait dit non au légat; il avait dit non au pape; il dit

non à l'empereur. Dans ce non héroïque et fécond se trouvait la

liberté du monde."

Another discourse was announced to conclude the sitting of the day.

But when M. Mignet retired, no one appeared to take his place; and after

waiting for a few minutes, the numerous and very fashionable-looking

crowd dispersed themselves.

I recollected the anecdote told of the first representation of the

"Partie de Chasse de Henri Quatre," when the overture of Mehul

produced such an effect, that the audience would not permit anything

else to be performed after it. The piece, therefore, was

_remise_,--and so was the harangue of the academician who was to have

followed M. Mignet.

You will confess, I think, that we are not idle, when I tell you that,

after all this, we went in the evening to _Le Concert Musard_. This is

one of the pastimes to which we have hitherto had no parallel in

London. At half-past seven o'clock, you lounge into a fine, large,

well-lighted room, which is rapidly filled with company: a full and

good orchestra give you during a couple of hours some of the best and

most popular music of the season; and then you lounge out again, in

time to dress for a party, or eat ices at Tortoni's, or soberly to go

home for a domestic tea-drinking and early rest. For this concert you

pay a franc; and the humble price, together with the style of toilet

(every lady wearing a bonnet and shawl), might lead the uninitiated to

suppose that it was a recreation prepared for the _beau monde_ of the

Faubourg; but the long line of private carriages that occupies the

street at the conclusion of it, shows that, simple and unpretending as

is its style, this concert has attractions for the best company in

Paris.

The easy _entrée_ to it reminded me of the theatres of Germany. I

remarked many ladies coming in, two or three together, unattended by

any gentleman. Between the acts, the company promenaded round the

room, parties met and joined, and altogether it appeared to us a very

agreeable mode of gratifying that French necessity of amusing one's

self out of one's own house, which seems contagious in the very air of

Paris.

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