this course of the streame doth happen to be disturbed; yet at two
seuerall times of the age of the moone, the waters returne to their
naturall course and limits of time exactlie. Polydore saith, that this
riuer is seldome increased or rather neuer ouerfloweth hir banks by
landflouds: but he is herein verie much deceiued, as it shalbe more
apparentlie séene hereafter. For the more that this riuer is put by of
hir right course, the more the water must of necessitie swell with the
white waters which run downe from the land: bicause the passage cannot
be so swift and readie in the winding as in the streight course. These
landflouds also doo greatlie straine the finesse of the streame, in so
much that after a great landfloud, you shall take haddocks with your
hands beneath the bridge, as they flote aloft vpon the water, whose eies
are so blinded with the thicknesse of that element, that they cannot see
where to become, and make shift to saue themselues before death take
hold of them. Otherwise the water of it selfe is verie cléere, and in
comparison next vnto that of the sea, which is most subtile and pure of
all other; as that of great riuers is most excellent, in comparison of
smaller brookes: although Aristotle will haue the salt water to be most
grosse, bicause a ship will beare a greater burden on the sea than on
the fresh water; and an eg sinke in this that swimmeth on the other. But
he may easilie be answered by the quantitie of roome and aboundance of
waters in the sea; whereby it becommeth of more force to susteine such
vessels as are committed to the same, and whervnto the greatest riuers
(God wot) are nothing comparable. I would here make mention of sundrie
[Sidenote: London bridge.]
bridges placed ouer this noble streame, of which that of London is most
chieflie to be commended, for it is in maner a c[=o]tinuall street, well
replenished with large and statelie houses on both sides, and situat
vpon twentie arches, whereof ech one is made of excellent free squared
stone, euerie of them being thréescore foot in height, and full twentie
in distance one from another, as I haue often viewed.
In like maner I could intreat of the infinit number of swans dailie to
[Sidenote: 2000 boates vpon the Thames
and 3000 poore m[=e] mainteined by
the same whose gaines come in most
plentifullie in the tearme time.]
be séene vpon this riuer, the two thousand wherries and small boats,
wherby three thousand poore watermen are mainteined, through the
cariage and recariage of such persons as passe or repasse, from time to
time vpon the same: beside those huge tideboats, tiltbotes, and barges,
which either carrie passengers, or bring necessarie prouision from all
quarters of Oxfordshire, Barkeshire, Buckinghamshire, Bedfordshire,
Herfordshire, Midlesex, Essex, Surrie, and Kent, vnto the citie of
London. But for somuch as these things are to be repeated againe in the
particular description of London, annexed to his card; I surceasse at
this time to speake anie more of them here, as not lingering but hasting
to performe my promise made euen now, not yet forgotten, and in
performance whereof I thinke it best to resume the description of this
noble riuer againe into my hands, and in adding whatsoeuer is before
omitted, to deliuer a full and perfect demonstration of his course. How
and where the said streame ariseth, is alreadie & with sufficiencie set
downe, noting the place to be within a mile of Tetburie, whereof some
doo vtterlie mislike, bicause that rill in summer drouths is oft so
drie, that there is little or no water at all séene running aboue ground
in the same. For this cause therefore manie affirme the verie head of
[Sidenote: Isis.]
Isis to come from the poole aboue Kemble. Other confound it with the
head of the Cirne or Chirne, called in Latine Corinium that riseth aboue
Coberleie. For my part I follow Leland, as he dooth the moonke of
Malmesburie, which wrote the historie intituled Eulogium historiarum,
who searched the same of set purpose, and pronounced with Leland,
although at this present that course be verie small, and choked vp (as I
heare) with grauell and sand. Procéeding therefore from the head, it
[Sidenote: Couus.]
first of all receiueth the Kemble water called the Coue, which riseth
aboue Kemble towne, goeth by Kemble it selfe vnto Poole and Somerford,
and then (accompanieth the Thames) vnto Canes, Ashton, Canes, and
Howston, holding on in one chanell vntill they méet with the Chirne, the
next of all to be described.
[Sidenote: Corinium.]
The Chirne is a faire water arising out of the ground aboue Coberleie,
from whence it runneth to Cowleie, Cowlesburne, Randcome, and so into
the Isis on the left side aboue Crekelade. These thrée waters being thus
vnited and brought into one chanell, within a little space of the head
of Isis, it runneth on by Crekelade, beneath which towne it receiueth
[Sidenote: Rhe.]
the Rhe, descending from Elcombe, Escot, Redburne, Widhill, & at the
fall into Isis, or not far off ioineth with another that runneth west of
Purton by Braden forrest, &c. Next of all our Isis méeteth with the
[Sidenote: Amneie.]
Amneie on the left hand, which comming from aboue Holie roode Amneie,
runneth by Downe Amneie, and finallie into the Isis a little aboue
Iseie. In like sort I read of another that méeteth withall on the right
hand aboue Iseie also, which so far as I can call to remembrance,
commeth from about Drifield and falleth so into our Isis, that they run
as one vntill they come at the Colne, although not so nakedlie and
without helpe, but that in this voiage, the maine streame dooth crosse
one water that descendeth from Swindon, and going also by Stratton
toward Seuingham, is it selfe increased with two rils by the waie,
whereof one commeth from Liddenton by Wambreie, as I haue béene
informed.
[Sidenote: Colneius, Colineus, or Colunus.]
The Colne is a faire riuer rising by north neere to Witchington, & from
thence goeth to Shiptons, Compton Abdale, Wittenton, Parneworth, Colne
Deanes, and Colne Rogers, Winston, Biberie, Colne Alens, Quenington,
Faireford, and west of Lachelade into the riuer Isis, which hereabout on
the southside also taketh in another, whereof I find this remembrance.
The Isis being once past Seuingham, crosseth a brooke from southest that
mounteth about Ashbirie, and receiuing a rill from bywest (that commeth
from Hinton) beneath Shrineham, it afterward so diuideth it selfe, that
the armes therof include Inglesham, and by reason that it falleth into
the Isis at two seuerall places, there is a plesant Iland producted,
whereof let this suffice.
[Sidenote: Lecusor Leche.]
Being past Lechelade a mile, it runneth to saint Johns bridge, &
thereabout méeteth with the Leche on the left hand. This brooke, whereof
Lechlade taketh the name (a towne wherevnto one péece of an old
vniuersitie is ascribed, which it did neuer possesse, more than
Crekelade did the other) riseth east of Hampnet, fr[=o] whence it goeth
to north Lech, Estenton, Anlesworth, east Lech, south Thorpe, Farendon,
& so into the Isis. From hence this famous water goeth by Kenskot toward
Radcote bridge (taking in the rill that riseth in an od péece of
Barkeshire, and runneth by Langford) and being past the said bridge (now
notable through a conspiracie made there sometimes by sundrie barons
against the estate) it is not long yer it crosse two other waters, both
of them descending from another od parcell of the said countie, whereof
I haue this note giuen me for my further information. There are two fals
of water into Isis beneath Radcote bridge, wherof the one commeth from
Shilton in Barkeshire by Arescote, blacke Burton and Clarrefield. The
other also riseth in the same péece, and runneth by Brisenorton vnto
Bampton, and there receiuing an armelet from the first that breake off
at blacke Burton, it is not long yer they fall into Isis, and leaue a
pretie Iland. After these confluences, the maine course of
[Sidenote: Winrush.]
the streame hasteth by Shifford to Newbridge, where it ioineth with the
Winrush. The Winrush riseth aboue Shieburne in Glocestershire, from
whence it goeth to Winrush, & c[=o]ming by Barrington, Burford,
Widbrooke, Swinbecke castell, Witneie, Duckington, Cockthorpe, Stanlake,
it méeteth with the Isis west by south of Northmore. From hence it goeth
beneath Stanton, Hartingcourt and Ensham, betwéene which and Cassinton,
[Sidenote: Briwerus.]
it receiueth (as Leland calleth it) the Bruerne water.
It riseth aboue Limington, and going to Norton in the Marsh, and through
a patch of Worcestershire vnto Euenlode, betweene it and the foure
[Sidenote: Comus.]
shirestones, it taketh in a rill called Come, comming by the long and
the little Comptons. After this also it goeth by Bradwell, Odington, and
[Sidenote: Rolrich.]
so to Bleddenton, aboue which towne it taketh in the Rolrich water that
issueth at two heads, in the hils that lie by west of little Rolrich,
and ioine aboue Kenkeham, and Church hill. From thence also it goeth
vnto Bruerne, Shipton vnderwood, Ascot, Short hamton, Chorleburie,
Corneburie parke, Stonfield, Longcombe, and southeast of Woodstocke
[Sidenote: Enis.]
parke, taketh in the Enis, that riseth aboue Emstone, and goeth to
Ciddington, Glimton, Wotton (where it is increased with a rill that
runneth thither from stéeple Barton, by the Béechin trée) Woodstocke,
Blaidon, so that after this confluence, the said Enis runneth to
Cassinton, and so into the Isis, which goeth from hence to Oxford, and
there receiueth the Charwell, now presentlie to be described.
[Sidenote: Charwell.]
The head of Charwell is in Northamptonshire, where it riseth out of a
little poole, by Charleton village, seuen miles aboue Banberie
northeast, and there it issueth so fast at the verie surge, that it
groweth into a pretie streame, in maner out of hand. Soone after also
[Sidenote: Bure.]
it taketh in a rillet called the Bure, which falleth into it, about
Otmere side: but forasmuch as it riseth by Bincester, the whole course
therof is not aboue foure miles, and therefore cannot be great. A friend
of mine prosecuting the rest of this description reporteth thereof as
followeth. Before the Charwell commeth into Oxfordshire, it receiueth the
[Sidenote: Culen.]
Culen, which falleth into the same, a little aboue Edgcote, and so
descending toward Wardington, it méeteth with another comming from by
north west, betweene Wardington and Cropreadie. At Banberie also it
[Sidenote: Come.]
méeteth with the Come (which falleth from fennie Conton by Farneboro,
and afterwards going by kings Sutton, not far from Aine, it receiueth
the discharge of diuerse rillets, in one bottome before it come at
Clifton. The said water therfore ingendred of so manie brookelets,
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
consisteth chiefelie of two, whereof the most southerlie called Oke,
commeth from Oke Norton, by Witchington or Wiggington, and the Berfords;
and carieng a few blind rils withall, dooth méet with the other that
falleth from by northwest into the same, within a mile of Charwell.
That other (as I coniecture) is increased of thrée waters, wherof each
[Sidenote: Tudo.]
one hath his seuerall name. The first of them therefore hight Tudo,
which comming betwéene Epwell and the Lée by Toddington, ioineth about
[Sidenote: Ornus.]
Broughton with the second that runneth from Horneton, named Ornus, as I
gesse. The last falleth into the Tude or Tudelake, beneath Broughton;
and for that it riseth not far from Sotteswell in Warwikeshire, some are
[Sidenote: Sotbrooke.]
of the opinion, that it is to be called Sotbrooke. The next water that
méeteth without Charwell beneath Clifton commeth from about Croughton,
[Sidenote: Souarus.]
[Sidenote: Sowar.]
and after this is the Sowar or Swere, that riseth north of Michaell Tew,
[Sidenote: Burus.]
and runneth by nether Wotton. The last of all is the Reie aliàs Bure,
whose head is not far aboue Burcester, aliàs Bincester, and Burncester:
and from whence it goeth by Burecester to Merton, Charleton, Fencote,
Addington, Noke, Islip, and so into Charwell, that holdeth on his course
after this augmentation of the waters, betwéene Wood and Water Eton, to
Marston, and the east bridge of Oxford by Magdalene college, and so
beneath the south bridge into our aforesaid Isis.
[Sidenote: Middest of England whereabouts.]
In describing this riuer, this one thing (right honorable) is come vnto
my mind, touching the center and nauill as it were of England. Certes
there is an hillie plot of ground in Helledon parish, not far from
Danberie, where a man maie stand and behold the heads of thrée notable
riuers, whose waters, and those of such as fall into them, doo
abundantlie serue the greatest part of England on this side of the
Humber. The first of these waters is the Charwell, alreadie described.
The second is the Leme that goeth westward into the fourth Auon. And the
third is the head of the Nene or fift Auon it selfe, of whose courses
there is no card but doth make sufficient mention; and therefore your
honour maie behold in the same how they doo coast the countrie, and also
measure by compasses how this plot lieth in respect of all the rest,
contrarie to common iudgement, which maketh Northampton to be the
middest and center of our countrie.
But to go forward with my description of the Ouse, which being past
Oxford goeth to Iflie, Kennington, Sanford, Rodleie, Newnham, and so to
Abington, som time called Sensham, without increase, where it receiueth
[Sidenote: Ocus.]
the Oche, otherwise called the Coche, a little beneath S. Helens, which
runneth thither of two brooklets, as I take it, whereof one commeth from
Compton, out of the vale and west of the hill of the White horsse, the
other from Kings Letcombe, and Wantage in Barkshire, and in one chanell,
entreth into the same, vpon the right side of his course. From Abington
[Sidenote: Arun.]
likewise (taking the Arun withall southwest of Sutton Courtneie) it
goeth by Appleford, long Wittenham, Clifton, Wittenham the lesse, &
beneath Dorchester, taketh in the Thame water, from whence the Isis
loseth the preheminence of the whole denomination of this riuer, and is
contented to impart the same with the Thame, so that by the coniunction
of these two waters Thamesis is producted, and that name continued euen
vnto the sea.
[Sidenote: Thame.]
Thame riuer riseth in the easterlie parts of Chilterne hils, towards
Penleie parke, at a towne called Tring west of the said parke, which is
seauen miles from the stone bridge, that is betweene Querendon and
Ailsburie (after the course of the water) as Leland hath set downe.
Running therefore by long Merston, and Puttenham, Hucket, and Bearton,
it receiueth soone after a rill that commeth by Querendon from Hardwike,
and yer long an other on the other side that riseth aboue Windouer in
the Chilterne, and passing by Halton, Weston, Turrill, Broughton, and
Ailsburie, it falleth into the Tame west of the said towne (except my
memorie doo faile me.) From this confluence the Tame goeth by Ethorpe,
the Winchingtons, Coddington, Chersleie, Notleie abbeie: and comming
almost to Tame, it receiueth one water from southeast aboue the said
towne, and another also from the same quarter beneath the towne; so that
Tame standeth inuironed vpon thrée sides with thrée seuerall waters, as
maie be easilie séene. The first of these commeth from the Chiltern east
of Below or Bledlow, from whence it goeth to Hinton, Horsenden,
Kingseie, Towseie, and so into the Tame. The other descendeth also from
the Chilterne, and going by Chinner, Crowell, Siddenham, and Tame parke,
it falleth in the end into Tame water, and then they procéed togither as
one by Shabbington, Ricot parke, Dracot, Waterstoke, Milton, Cuddesdon,
and Chiselton. Here also it taketh in another water from by-east, whose
head commeth from Chilterne hils, not farre from Stocking church, in the
waie from Oxford to London. From whence it runneth to Weston (and
méeting beneath Cuxham with Watlington rill) it goeth onto Chalgraue,
Stadham, and so into the Tame. From hence our streame of Thame runneth
to Newenton, Draton, Dorchester (sometime a bishops see, and a noble
citie) and so into the Thames, which hasteth in like sort to Bensington,
[Sidenote: Blauius.]
Crowmarsh, or Wallingford, where it receiueth the Blaue, descending from
Blaueburg, now Blewberie, as I learne.
Thus haue I brought the Thames vnto Wallingford, situate in the vale of
White horsse, that runneth a long therby. From hence it goeth by
Newenham, north Stoke, south Stoke, Goring, Bassilden, Pangburne, where
it meeteth with a water that commeth from about Hamsted Norris, runneth
by Frizelham, Buckelburie, Stanford, Bradfeld, Tidmarsh and Pangburne.
After which confluence it goeth on betweene Mapledorham and Purleie, to
Cauersham, and Cauersham manour, and a little beneath receiueth the
Kenet that commeth thereinto from Reading.
[Sidenote: Cenethus.]
The Kenet riseth aboue Ouerton 5 or 6 miles west of Marleborow, or
Marlingsborow, as some call it; & then going by Fifeld, Clatfor, Maulon,
& Preshute, vnto Marleburie: it holdeth on in like order to Ramsburie,
and northwest of little Cote, taketh in a water by north descending from
the hilles aboue Alburne chase west of Alburne town. Thence it runneth
to little Cote, Charnhamstréet, & beneth Charnhamstréet it crosseth the
[Sidenote: Bedwiine.]
[Sidenote: Chalkeburne.]
Bedwin, which (taking the Chalkburne rill withall) commeth from great
Bedwijne, & at Hungerford also two other in one botom somewhat beneath
the towne. From hence it goeth to Auington, Kinburie, Hamsted marshall,
[Sidenote: Lamburne.]
Euburne, Newberie; and beneath this towne, taketh in the Lamburne water
that commeth by Isberie, Egerston, the Sheffords, Westford, Boxford,
Donington castell, and Shaw. From Newberie it goeth to Thatcham,
[Sidenote: Alburnus.]
Wolhampton, Aldermaston, a little aboue which village it receiueth the
Alburne, another brooke increased with sundrie rils: and thus going on
to Padworth, Oston, and Michaell, it commeth at last to Reading, where
(as I said) it ioineth with the Thames, and so they go forward as one by
Sonning to Shiplake, and there on the east side receiue the Loddon that
commeth downe thither from the south, as by his course appéereth.
[Sidenote: Lodunus.]
The Loddon riseth in Hamshire betwéene west Shirburne and Wooton toward
the southwest, afterward directing his course toward the northwest,
thorough the Vine, it passeth at the last by Bramlie, and thorough a
peece of Wiltshire, to Stradfield, Swallowfield, Arberfield, Loddon
bridge, leauing a patch of Wiltshire on the right hand (as I haue béene
informed.) This Loddon not far from Turges towne receiueth two waters in
one bottome, whereof the westerlie called Basing water, commeth from
Basingstoke, and thorough a parke vnto the aforesaid place.
The other descendeth of two heads from Mapledour well, and goeth by
Skewes, Newenham, Rotherwijc, and yer it come at Hartlie, ioineth with
the Basing water, from whence they go togither to Turges, where they
méet with the Loddon (as I haue said alreadie.) The next streame toward
[Sidenote: Ditis vadum.]
the south is called Ditford brooke. It riseth not farre from Vpton, goeth
[Sidenote: Ikelus.]
by Gruell, and beneath Wharnborow castell receiueth the Ikell (comming
from a parke of the same denomination) from whence they go togither by
Maddingleie vnto Swalowfield, and so into the Loddon. In this voiage
[Sidenote: Elueius.]
also the Loddon méeteth with the Elwie or Elueie that commeth from
Aldershare, not farre by west of Euersleie: and about Eluesham
[Sidenote: Ducus.]
likewise with another running from Dogmansfield named the Douke: and
[Sidenote: Erin.]
also the third not inferior to the rest comming from Erin, whose head is
in Surreie, and going by Ash becommeth a limit, first betwéene Surreie
and Hamshire; then betwéene Hamshire and Barkeshire, and passing by Ash,
Erinleie, Blacke water, Perleie, and Finchamsted; it ioineth at last
with the Ditford, before it come at Swalowfield. To conclude therefore
with our Loddon, hauing receiued all these waters; and after the last
confluence with them now being come to Loddon bridge, it passeth on by a
part of Wiltshire to Twiford bridge, then to Wargraue, and so into the
Thames that now is maruellouslie increased and growen vnto triple
greatnesse (to that it was at Oxford.)
Being therefore past Shiplake and Wargraue, it runneth by Horsependon,
or Harding: then to Henleie vpon Thames, where sometime a great rill
voideth it selfe in the same. Then to Remenham, Greneland (going all
this waie from Shiplake iust north, and now turning eastwards againe) by
Medenham, Hurlie, Bisham, Marlow the greater, Marlow the lesse, it
meeteth with a brooke soone after that consisteth of the water of two
[Sidenote: Vsa.]
rilles, whereof the one called the Vse, riseth about west Wickham, out
of one of the Chilterne hilles, and goeth from thence to east Wickham or
high Wickham, a pretie market towne. The other named Higden, descendeth
[Sidenote: Higden.]
also from those mounteines but a mile beneath west Wickham, and ioining
both in one at the last, in the west end of east Wickham towne, they go
togither to Wooburne, Hedsor, & so into the Thames. Some call it the
Tide; and that word doo I vse in my former treatise: but to procéed.
After this confluence our Thames goeth on by Cowkham, Topleie,
Maidenhead, aliàs Sudlington, Braie, Dorneie, Clure, new Windsore
(taking in neuerthelesse, at Eaton by the waie, the Burne which riseth
out of a Moore, & commeth thither by Burnham) old Windsor, Wraiborow,
and a little by east therof doth crosse the Cole, whereof I find this
short description insuing.
[Sidenote: Colus, aliàs Vere and Vertume.]
The Cole riseth néere vnto Flamsted, from whence it goeth to Redburn, S.
Michaels, S. Albons, Aldenham, Watford, and so by More to Richmansworth,
where there is a confluence of three waters, of which this Cole is the
[Sidenote: Gadus.]
first. The second called Gadus riseth not farre from Ashridge, an house
or palace belonging to the prince: from whence it runneth to great
Gaddesdin, Hemsted, betwéene Kings Langleie, and Abbots Langleie, then
to Hunters, and Cashew bridges, and so to Richmanswoorth, receiuing by
the waie a rill comming from Alburie by northwest, to Northchurch,
Barkehamsted, and beneath Hemsted ioining with the same. The last
commeth in at northwest from aboue Chesham, by Chesham it selfe, then by
Chesham Bois, Latimers, Mawdlens, Cheinies, Sarret and Richmanswoorth,
and so going on all in one chanell vnder the name of Cole, it runneth to
Vxbridge, where it taketh in the Missenden water, from northwest, which
rising aboue Missenden the greater goeth by Missenden the lesse,
Hagmondesham (now Hammersham) the Vach, Chalfhunt Giles, Chalfhunt S.
Peters, Denham, and then into the Cole aboue Vxbridge (as I haue said.)
Soone after this our Cole doth part it selfe into two branches, neuer to
ioine againe before they come at the Thames, for the greater of them
goeth thorough the goodlie medows straight to Colebrooke, the other vnto
two milles, a mile and a halfe east of Colebrooke, in the waie to
London, leauing an Iland betwéene them of no small size and quantitie.
[Sidenote: Vindeles.]
Being past the Cole, we come to the fall of the Vindeles, which riseth
by northwest néere vnto Bagshot, from whence it goeth to Windlesham,
Chobham, and méeting with a brooklet comming westward from Bisleie, they
run togither toward Cherteseie, where when they haue met with a small
rill rising north of Sonning hill in Windlesoure great parke, it falleth
into the Thames on the northeast side of Cherteseie. When we were come
beyond this water, it was not long yer we came vnto another on the same
side, that fell into the Thames betweene Shepperton on the one side, and
[Sidenote: Veius.]
Oteland on the other, and is called the Waie. The Weie or the Waie
rising by west, commeth from Olsted, & soone after taking the Hedleie
brooke withall (which riseth in Wulmere forrest, and goeth by Hedleie
and Frensham) hasteth by Bentleie, Farnham, Alton, Waiberleie, Elsted,
[Sidenote: Thuresbie.]
and so to Pepper harrow, where it ioineth with the Thuresbie water,
which commeth not farre off from a village of the same denomination.
From hence also it goeth to Godalming, and then toward Shawford, but yer
it come there, it crosseth Craulie becke, which rising somewhere about
[Sidenote: Crawleie.]
the edge of Sussex short of Ridgewijc, goeth by Vacherie parke, Knoll,
Craulie, Bramleie, Wonarsh, and so into the Waie. From hence then our
[Sidenote: Abbinger.]
riuer goeth to Shawford, and soone after (méeting with the Abbinger
water that commeth by Shere, Albirie, and the chappell on the hill) it
proceedeth to Guldeford, thence to Stoke, Sutton in the parke, Send,
Woking, and at Newarke parke side taketh in a brooke that riseth of two
heads, whereof one dooth spring betwéene two hils north of Pepper
harrow, and so runneth through Henleie parke, the other aboue Purbright,
and afterward ioining in one, they go foorth vnto Newarke, and being
there vnited, after the confluence it goeth to Purford court, to Bifler,
Waifred, Oteland, and so into the Thames.