the Askoome, to the Lindill. And foure score miles from the Skie towards
the west, to the Ling, the Gigarmen, the Berner, the Magle, the Pable,
the Flad, the Scarpe, the Sander, the Vateras, which later hath a noble
hauen for great ships, beside sundrie other commodities: and these nine
last rehearsed are vnder the dominion of the bishop of the Iles. After
[Sidenote: Bar.]
this we come to the Bar, an Iland seauen miles in length, not
vnfruitfull for grasse and corne, but the chiefe commoditie thereof
lieth by taking of herrings, which are there to be had abundantlie. In
one baie of this Iland there lieth an Islet, and therein standeth a
strong castell. In the north part hereof also is an hill which beareth
good grasse from the foot to the top, and out of that riseth a spring,
which running to the sea, doth carrie withall a kind of creature not yet
perfectlie formed, which some do liken vnto cockels; and vpon the shore
where the water falleth into the sea, they take vp a kind of shelfish,
when the water is gone, which they suppose to be ingendred or increased
after this manner. Betwéene the Barre and the Visse lie also these
Ilands, Orbaus, Oue, Hakerset, Warlang, Flad, the two Baies, Haie,
Helsaie, Gigaie, Lingaie, Fraie, Fudaie, and Friskaie. The Visse is
thirtie miles long and six miles broad; and therein are sundrie fresh
waters, but one especiallie of three miles in length: neuerthelesse, the
sea hath now of late found a waie into it, so that it cannot be kept off
with a banke of three score foot, but now and then it will flowe into
the same, and leaue sea-fish behind it in the lake. There is also a fish
bred therein almost like vnto a salmon, sauing that it hath a white
bellie, a blacke backe, and is altogither without scales: it is likewise
a great harbour for théeues and pirats.
Eight miles beyond this lieth the Helscher, appertinent to the nuns of
Iona: then haue we the Hasker, verie plentifullie benefited by seales,
which are there taken in time of the yéere. Thrée score miles from this
also is the Hirth, whose inhabitants are rude in all good science and
religion; yet is the Iland verie fruitfull in all things, and bringeth
foorth shéepe farre greater than are else-where to be found, for they
are as big as our fallow deare, horned like bugles, and haue their
tailes hanging to the ground. He that is owner of this Ile, sendeth ouer
his bailiffe into the same at midsummer, to gather in his duties, and
[Sidenote: Baptisme without preests.]
with him a préest to saie masse, and to baptise all the children borne
since that time of the yéere precedent: or if none will go ouer with him
(bicause the voiage is dangerous) then doth each father take paine to
baptise his owne at home. Their rents are paid commonlie in dried seales
and sea foule. All the whole Ile is not aboue a mile euerie waie; and
except thrée mounteines that lie vpon one part of the shore, such as
dwell in the other Iles can see no part thereof.
Being past the Visse, we came after to Walaie, the Soa, the Strome, to
Pabaie, to Barner, Ensaie, Killiger, the two Sagas, the Hermodraie,
Scarfe, Grie, Ling, Gilling, Heie, Hoie, Farlaie, great So, little So,
Ise, Sein the more, Sein the lesse, Tarant, Slegan, Tuom, Scarpe,
Hareie, and the seauen holie Ilands, which are desert and bréed nothing
[Sidenote: Wild sheepe.]
but a kind of wild shéepe, which are often hunted, but seldome or neuer
eaten. For in stéed of flesh they haue nothing but tallow; and if anie
flesh be, it is so vnsauorie, that few men care to eate of it, except
great hunger compell them. I suppose, that these be the wild sheepe
which will not be tamed; and bicause of the horrible grenning thereof,
[Sidenote: Tigers.]
is taken for the bastard tiger. Their haire is betweene the wooll of a
sheepe, and the haire of a goat, resembling both, shacked, and yet
absolutelie like vnto neither of both: it maie be also the same beast
which Capitolinus calleth Ouis fera, shewed in the time of Gordian the
emperour; albeit that some take the same for the Camelopardalis: but
hereof I make no warrantise.
There is also not farre off the Garuell, the Lambe, the Flad, the
Kellas, the two Bernars, the Kirt, the two Buies, the Viraie, the
[Sidenote: Ile of Pigmeies.]
Pabaie, the two Sigrams, and the Ile of Pigmeies (which is so called
vpon some probable coniecture) for manie little sculs and bones are
dailie there found déepe in the ground, perfectlie resembling the bodies
of children; & not anie of greater quantities, wherby their coniecture
(in their opinion) is the more likelie to be true. There is also the
Fabill Ile, Adams Ile, the Ile of Lambes, Hulmes, Viccoll, Haueraie,
Car, Era, Columbes Ile, Tor Ile, Iffurd, Scalpe, Flad, and the Swet; on
whose east side is a certeine vault or caue, arched ouer, a flight shoot
in length, wherevnto meane ships do vse to runne for harbour with full
saile when a tempest ouertaketh them, or the raging of the sea, in those
parts do put them in danger of wrecke. Also we passed by the old castell
Ile, which is a pretie and verie commodious plat for fish, foule, egges,
corne, and pasture. There is also the Ile Eust or Eu, which is full of
wood, and a notable harbour for théeues, as is also the Grinort;
likewise the preests Ile, which is verie full of sea foule and good
pasture. The Afull, the two Herbrerts, to wit, the greater and the
lesse; and the Iles of Horsses, and Mertaika: and these 8 lie ouer
against the baie which is called the Lake Brian. After this, we go
toward the north, and come to the Haraie, and the Lewis or the Leug,
both which make (in truth) but one Iland of thrée score miles in length,
and sixtéene in breadth, being distinguished by no water, but by huge
woods, bounds, and limits of the two owners that doo possesse those
parts. The south part is called Haraie, and the whole situate in the
[Sidenote: Lewis called Thule by Tacitus, with no
better authoritie than the Angleseie Mona.]
Deucalidon sea, ouer against the Rosse, & called Thule by Tacitus,
wherein are manie lakes, and verie pretie villages, as lake Erwijn,
lake Vnsalsago: but of townes, S. Clements, Stoie, Nois, S. Columbane,
Radmach, &c. In like sort, there are two churches, whereof one is
dedicated to saint Peter, an other to S. Clement, beside a monasterie
called Roadill. The soile also of this Ile is indifferent fruitfull; but
they reape more profit vnder the ground than aboue, by digging. There is
neither woolfe, fox, nor serpent séene in this Iland; yet are there great
woods therein, which also separate one part from the other. Likewise
there be plentie of stags, but farre lesse in quantitie than ours: and in
the north part of the Iland also is a riuer which greatlie aboundeth with
salmons. That part also called Lewisa, which is the north half of the Ile
is well inhabited toward the sea coasts, and hath riuers no lesse
plentifull for salmon than the other halfe. There is also great store of
herrings taken, whereof the fisher men doo raise great gaine and
commoditie; and no lesse plentie of sheepe, which they doo not sheere,
but plucke euerie yeere; yet is the ground of this part verie heathie,
and full of mosse, and the face thereof verie swart and blacke, for the
space of a foot in depth, through the corruption of such woods as in time
past haue rotted on the same. And therefore in time of the yeere they
conuert it into turffe to burne, as néede shall serue; and in the yéere
after, hauing well doonged it in the meane time with slawke of the sea,
they sowe barleie in the selfe places where the turffes grew, and reape
[Sidenote: Tithe whales.]
verie good corne, wherewith they liue and féed. Such plentie of whales
also are taken in this coast, that the verie tithe hath béene knowne, in
some one yéere, to amount vnto seauen and twentie whales of one
greatnesse and other. This is notable also in this part of the Ile, that
there is a great caue two yards déepe of water when the sea is gone, and
not aboue foure when it is at the highest; ouer which great numbers doo
sit of both sexes and ages, with hooks and lines, and catch at all times
an infinite deale of fish, wherewith they liue, and which maketh them
also the more idle.
Being past this about sixtie miles, we come vnto the Rona, or Ron, which
some take for the last of the Hebrides, distant (as I said) about fortie
miles from the Orchades, and one hundreth and thirtie from the
promontorie of Dungisbe. The inhabitants of this Ile are verie rude and
irreligious, the lord also of the soile dooth limit their number of
housholds, & hauing assigned vnto them what numbers of the greater and
smaller sorts of cattell they shall spend and inioie for their owne
prouision, they send the ouerplus yéerlie vnto him to Lewis. Their
cheefe paiments consist of a great quantitie of meale, which is verie
plentifull among them, sowed vp in shéepes skins. Also of mutton and sea
foule dried, that resteth ouer and aboue, which they themselues do
spend. And if it happen that there be more people in the Iland than the
lords booke or rate dooth come vnto, then they send also the ouerplus of
them in like maner vnto him: by which means they liue alwaies in
plentie. They receiue no vices from strange countries, neither know or
heare of anie things doone else-where than in their owne Iland. Manie
whales are taken also vpon their coasts, which are likewise replenished
with seale, and porpasse, and those which are either so tame, or so
fierce, that they abash not at the sight of such as looke vpon them,
neither make they anie hast to flie out of their presence.
[Sidenote: Suilscraie.]
Beyond this Ile, about 16 miles westward, there is another called
Suilscraie, of a mile length, void of grasse, and without so much as
heath growing vpon hir soile: yet are there manie cliffes and rocks
therein, which are couered with blacke mosse, whereon innumerable sorts
of foules do bréed and laie their egs. Thither in like sort manie doo
saile from Lewissa, to take them yoong in time of the yeare, before they
be able to flie, which they also kill and drie in eight daies space, and
then returne home againe with them, and great plentie of fethers
gathered in this voiage. One thing is verie strange and to be noted in
[Sidenote: Colke foule.]
this Iland, of the Colke foule, which is little lesse than a goose; and
this kind commeth thither but once in the yeare, to wit, in the spring,
to laie hir egs and bring vp hir yoong, till they be able to shift for
themselues, & then they get them awaie togither to the sea, and come no
more vntill that time of the yéere which next insueth. At the same
season also they cast their fethers there, as it were answering tribute
to nature for the vse of hir mossie soile: wherein it is woonderfull to
sée, that those fethers haue no stalkes, neither anie thing that is hard
in them, but are séene to couer their bodies as it were wooll or downe,
till breeding time (I saie) wherein they be left starke naked.
[Sidenote: Orchades.]
The Orchades (whose first inhabitants were the Scithians, which came
from those Iles where the Gothes did inhabit, as some sparks yet
remaining among them of that language doo declare) lie partlie in the
Germaine, and partlie in the Calidon seas, ouer against the point of
Dunghisbie (being in number eight and twentie, or as other saie thirtie
& one, yet some saie thirtie thrée, as Orosius, but Plinie saith fortie)
and now belonging to the crowne of Scotland, as are the rest whereof
héeretofore I haue made report, since we crossed ouer the mouth of the
Solueie streame, to come into this countrie. Certes the people of these
Islands reteine much of their old sparing diets, and therevnto they are
of goodlie stature, tall, verie comelie, healthfull, of long life, great
strength, whitish colour, as men that féed most vpon fish; sith the cold
is so extreame in those parts, that the ground bringeth foorth but small
store of wheate, and in maner verie little or no fuell at all, wherewith
to warme them in the winter, and yet it séemeth that (in times past)
some of these Ilands also haue béene well replenished with wood, but now
they are without either trée or shrub, in stéed whereof they haue
plentie of heath, which is suffered to grow among them, rather thorough
their negligence, than that the soile of it selfe will not yéeld to
bring forth trées & bushes. For what store of such hath béene in times
past, the roots yet found and digged out of the ground doo yéeld
sufficient triall. Otes they haue verie plentifullie, but greater store
of barleie, wherof they make a nappie kind of drinke, and such indéed,
as will verie readilie cause a stranger to ouershoot himselfe. Howbeit
this may be vnto vs in lieu of a miracle, that although their drinke be
neuer so strong, & they themselues so vnmeasurable drinkers (as none are
[Sidenote: If he speake all in truth.]
more) yet it shall not easilie be séene (saith Hector) that there is
anie drunkard among them, either frantike, or mad man, dolt, or naturall
foole, meet to weare a cockescombe.
This vnmeasurable drinking of theirs is confessed also by Buchanan, who
noteth, that whensoeuer anie wine is brought vnto them from other
soiles, they take their parts thereof aboundantlie. He addeth moreouer,
how they haue an old bole (which they call S. Magnus bole, who first
preached Christ vnto them) of farre greater quantitie than common boles
are, and so great, that it may séeme to be reserued since the Lapithane
banket, onelie to quaffe and drinke in. And when anie bishop commeth
vnto them, they offer him this bole full of drinke, which if he be able
to drinke vp quite at one draught; then they assure themselues of good
lucke, and plentie after it. Neuerthelesse this excesse is not often
found in the common sort, whom penurie maketh to be more frugall; but in
their priests, and such as are of the richer calling. They succour
pirats also, and verie often exchange their vittels with their
commodities, rather for feare and want of power to resist (their Ilands
lieng so scattered) than for anie necessitie of such gains as they doo
get by those men: for in truth, they thinke themselues to haue little
need of other furniture than their owne soiles doo yéeld and offer vnto
them. This is also to be read of the inhabitants of these Ilands, that
ignorance of excesse is vnto the most part of them in stéed of physicke;
and labour and trauell a medicine for such few diseases as they are
molested and incombred withall.
In like sort they want venemous beasts, chéefelie such as doo delight in
hotter soile, and all kinds of ouglie creatures. Their ewes also are so
full of increase, that some doo vsuallie bring foorth two, three, or
foure lambes at once, whereby they account our anelings (which are such
as bring foorth but one at once) rather barren than to be kept for anie
gaine. As for wild and tame foules, they haue such plentie of them, that
the people there account them rather a burthen to their soile, than a
benefit to their tables: they haue also neat and gotes, whereby they
abound in white meat, as butter and cheese: wherein, next vnto fish, the
chéefe part of their sustenance dooth consist. There is also a bishop of
the Orchades, who hath his see in Pomona the chéefe of all the Ilands,
wherein also are two strong castels, and such hath béene the
superstition of the people here, that there is almost no one of them,
that hath not one church at the least dedicated to the mother of Christ.
Finallie, there is little vse of physicke in these quarters, lesse store
of éeles, and least of frogs. As for the horsses that are bred amongst
them, they are commonlie not much greater than asses, and yet to labour
and trauell, a man shall find verie few else-where, able to come neere,
much lesse to match with them, in holding out their iournies. The seas
about these Ilands are verie tempestuous, not onelie through strong
winds, and the influences of the heauens and stars; but by the contrarie
méetings and workings of the west ocean, which rageth so vehementlie in
the streicts, that no vessell is able to passe in safetie amongst them.
Some of these Ilands also are so small and low, that all the commoditie
which is to be reaped by anie of them, is scarselie sufficient to
susteine one or two men: and some of them so barren and full of rocks,
that they are nothing else but mosse or bare shingle. Wherefore onelie
thirtéene of them are inhabited and made account of, the rest being left
vnto their sheepe and cattell. Of all these Ilands also Pomona is the
greatest, and therfore called the continent, which conteineth thirtie
miles in length, and is well replenished with people: for it hath twelue
parish churches, and one towne which the Danes (sometime lords of that
[Sidenote: Kirkwa.]
Iland) called Cracouia: but now it hight Kirkwa. There are also two
pretie holds, one belonging to the king, the other to the bishop: and
also a beautifull church, and much building betweene the two holds, and
about this church, which being taken as it were for two townes, the one
is called the kings and the other the bishops towne. All the whole Iland
is full of cliffes and promontories, whereby no small number of baies
and some hauens are producted.
There is also tin and lead to be found in six of these Iles, so good and
plentifullie as anie where else in Britaine. It lieth foure & twentie
miles from Cathnesse, being separated from the same by the Pictish sea:
wherein also lie certeine Ilands, as Stroma, foure miles from Cathnesse,
which albeit that it be but foure miles from Cathnesse, is not reputed
for anie of the Orchades. Going therefore from hence northward, we come
to the first Ile of the Orchades, called south Rauals, which is sixtéene
miles from Dunghilsbie, aliàs Dunachisbie, & that in two houres space,
such is the swiftnesse of the sea in that tract. This Ile is fiue miles
long, and hath a faire port called saint Margarets hauen. Then passe we
by two desert Iles, which lie towards the east, wherein nothing is found
but cattell: some call them the holmes, bicause they lie low, and are
good for nothing but grasse. On the northside lieth the Bur, and two
other holmes betweene the same & Pomona. From Bur, toward the west lie
thrée Iles, Sun, Flat, and Far: and beyond them Hoie and Vall, which
some accompt for two, and other but for one; bicause that in March and
September, the flats that lie betwéene them, doo séeme to ioine them
togither, after the tide is gone. This neuerthelesse is certeine, that
in this single or double Ile, which is ten miles in length, the highest
hilles are to be séene that are in all the Orchades. And as they lie
eight miles from Rauals, so are they two miles from Pomona, & from saint
Donats in Scotland full twentie miles, and on the north side of it lieth
the Brainse, in a narrow streict, as Buchanan dooth remember. And these
are the Iles which lie betweene Pomona and Cathnesse. As for the west
side of the continent, I find that it lieth open to the sea, without
either shelues, Ilands, or rocks appéering néere vnto it: but on the
east side thereof Cobesa dooth in maner ouershadow it. Siapinsa also an
Ile of six miles long, lieth within two miles of Cracouia, toward the
east, on the west side of Pomona lieth the Rouse of six miles in length:
and by east of that, the Eglisa, wherin (as they saie) their patrone S.
Magnus lieth interred. From hense southward lie the Vera, Gersa, and not
far off the Vester (which is fourescore miles from Hethland) Papa &
Stronza, which is also eightie miles from Hethland as is the Vester. In
the middest also of this tract lieth Far, or Fara, which is to saie,
faire Ile, in old English, faire eie: and within sight so well of
Hethland, as the Orchades (by reason of three insuperable rocks which
are apparant in the same) a verie poore Iland, and yet yearelie robbed
of such commodities as it hath by such Flemish and English fishermen as
passe by the coasts thereof in time of the yeare, to catch fish for the
prouision of their countries.
Next vnto this is the greatest of all the Hethlands, an Iland called the
Maine, sixtie miles in length, and sixteene in bredth, full of rocks,
and whose coasts are onelie inhabited, the innermost parts being left
vnto the foules of the aire, bicause of the barrennesse and
vnfruitfulnesse of the soile: yet of late some haue indeuoured to
impeople it, but with no successe correspondent to their desire.
Wherefore they returned to their former trades, making their chéefe
commoditie and yearelie gaine by fish, as aforetime. Ten miles from this
toward the north, lieth the Zeale, twentie miles in length, eight in
bredth, and so wild that it will suffer no creature to liue thereof,
that is not bred therein. Betwéene this Iland also and the Maine, are
other smaller Ilands to be found, as the Ling, Orne, Big, and Sanferre.
And from hense nine miles northward Vsta, twentie miles long, & six in
bredth, plaine, pleasant, but inuironed with a swift and terrible sea.
Betwéene this also and the Zeale, are the Vie, the Vre, and the Ling:
also towards the west, the two Skeues, Chalseie, Nordwade, Brase, and
Mowse, on the west side lie the west Skeies, Rottia, Papa the lesse,
Wunned, Papa the more, Valla, Londra, Burra, Haura the more, Haura the
lesse, & in maner so manie holmes dispersed heere and there, whereof I
haue no notice. Some call these the Shetland, and some the Shotland
Iles. Buchanan nameth them in the third member of his diuision
Zelandine, and toward the end of his first booke seemeth to auouch, that
they liue in maner as doo the inhabitants of the Orchades: although not
in so ciuill wise, nor in such large measure and aboundance of diet in
their houses. He addeth moreouer, that their apparrell is after the
Germaine cut, comelie, but not so chargeable and costlie, and how they
raise their gaine by skins of beasts, as marterns, sheepe, oxen, and
gotes skins, and therevnto a kind of cloth which they weaue, and sell to
the merchants of Norwaie, togither with their butter, fish, either
salted or dried, and their traine oile, and exercise their trade of
fishing also in their vncerteine skewes, which they fetch out of
Norwaie.
Their speech is Gothish, and such of them as by their dealing with
forren merchants doo gather anie wealth, that will they verie often
bestow vpon the furniture of their houses. Their weights & measures are
after the Germaine maner, their countrie is verie healthie, and so
wholesome, that a man was found which had married a wife at one hundred
yeares of age, and was able to go out a fishing with his bote at one
hundred and fortie, and of late yéeres died of méere age, without anie
other disease. Dronkennesse is not heard of among them, and yet they
meet and make good chéere verie often. Neither doo I read of anie great
vse of flesh or foule there, although that some of their Ilands haue
plentie of both. Nor anie mention of corne growing in these parts, and
therefore in steed of bread they drie a kind of fish, which they beat in
morters to powder, & bake it in their ouens, vntill it be hard and drie.
Their fuell also is of such bones as the fish yéeldeth, that is taken on
their coasts: and yet they liue as themselues suppose in much felicitie,
thinking it a great péece of their happinesse to be so farre distant
from the wicked auarice, and cruell dealings of the more rich and ciuill
part of the world.
Herein also they are like vnto the Hirthiens, in that at one time of the
yeare, there commeth a priest vnto them out of the Orchades (vnto which
iurisdiction they doo belong) who baptiseth all such children, as haue
béene borne among them, since he last arriued, and hauing afterward
remained there for a two daies, he taketh his tithes of them (which they
prouide and paie with great scrupulositie in fish, for of other
commodities haue they none) and then returneth home againe, not without
boast of his troublesome voiage, except he watch his time. In these Iles
[Sidenote: Amber.]
also is great plentie of fine Amber to be had (as Hector saith) which is
producted by the working of the sea vpon those coasts: but more of this
elsewhere. This neuertheles is certeine, that these Ilands, with the
Orchades, were neuer perfectlie vnited to the crowne of Scotland, till
the mariage was made betwéene king Iames and the ladie Marie daughter to
Christierne king of Denmarke 1468, which Christierne at the birth of
their sonne Iames (afterward king of Scotland and called Iames the
fourth) resigned all his right and title whatsoeuer either he or his
ancestors either presently or hertofore had, might haue had, or herafter
may or should haue, vnto the aforesaid péeres, as appéereth by the
charter.