We had to be continually on the watch, to have safe men at every door,

in every passage, on every floor; we had to superintend the least

details. I remember, for instance, standing by for nearly two hours

while the Empress's dresses were being unpacked, so great was our fear

lest a disguised bomb might be slipped into one of the sovereign's

numerous trunks, while the women were arranging the gowns in the

special presses and cupboards intended for them. Lastly, day and night,

we had to go on constant rounds, both inside and outside the château.

On the occasion of one of these minute investigations, I met with a

rather interesting adventure. Not far from the apartments reserved

for the Empress Alexandra's ladies was an unoccupied room, the door

of which was locked. It appeared that, during the Empire, this room

had been used by Madame Bruant, the Prince Imperial's governess, wife

of Admiral Bruant. At a time when every apartment in the château

was thrown open for the visit of our imperial guests, why did this

one alone remain closed? I was unable to say. In any case, my duty

obliged me to leave no corner unexplored; and, on the first evening, I

sent for a bunch of keys. After a few ineffectual attempts, the lock

yielded, the door opened ... and imagine my bewilderment! In a charming

disorder, tin soldiers, dancing dolls, rocking horses and beautiful

picture-books lay higgledy-piggledy in the middle of the room, around

a great, big, ugly plush bear!

I enquired and found that they were the Prince Imperial's toys: they

had been left there and forgotten for thirty years. And an interesting

coincidence was that the big bear was the last present made by the Tsar

Alexander II to the little prince.

I softly closed the door which I had opened upon the past; I resolved

to respect those playthings; there are memories which it is better not

to awaken.

The next morning chance allowed me to assist at a sight which many a

photographer would have been glad to "snap." The Tsar and Tsaritsa, who

are both very early risers, had gone down to the garden, accompanied

by their great greyhound, which answered to the name of Lofki. The

Tsar was expected to go shooting that morning, in anticipation of

which intention the keepers had spent the night in filling the park

with pheasants, deer and hares. Their labours were wasted; Nicholas

II preferred to stroll round the lawns with the Empress. She was

bare-headed and had simply put up a parasol against the sun, which was

of dazzling brightness; she carried a camera slung over her shoulder.

The young couple, whom I followed hidden behind a shrubbery, turned

their steps towards the covered walk of hornbeams which Napoleon I had

had made for Marie-Louise, hoping, no doubt, to find in the shade

of this beautiful leafy vault, which autumn was already decking with

its copper hues, a discreet solitude suited to the billing and cooing

of the pair of lovers that they were. But the departments of public

ceremony and public safety were on the lookout; already, inside the

bosky tunnel, fifty soldiers commanded by a lieutenant, were presenting

arms!

The sovereigns had to make the best of a bad job. The Emperor reviewed

the men with a serious face and the Empress photographed them and

promised to send the lieutenant a print as soon as the plate was

developed. Thereupon the Tsar and Tsaritsa walked away in a different

direction. A charming little wood appeared before their eyes. Lofki

was running ahead of them. Suddenly, a furious barking was heard; and

four gendarmes emerged from behind a clump of fir-trees and, presenting

arms, gave the military salute!

There was nothing to be done and the sovereigns gaily accepted the

situation. With a merry burst of laughter, they turned on their heels

and resolved to go back to the château. By way of consolation, the

Tsaritsa amused herself by photographing her husband, who, in his turn,

took a snapshot of his wife.

They showed no bitterness on account of the disappointment which their

walk must have caused them. In fact, to anybody who asked him, on his

return, if he had enjoyed his stroll, Nicholas II contented himself

with saving:

"Oh, yes, the grounds are beautiful; and I now know what you mean by 'a

well-cared-for property'!"

7.

While life was being arranged in the great palace and everyone settling

down as if he were to stay there for a month instead of three days;

while the head of the kitchens, acting under the inspiration of the

head of the ceremonial department, was cudgelling his brains to bring

his menus into harmony with politics by introducing subtle alliances

of French and Russian dishes; while the musicians were tuning their

violins for the "gala" concert of the evening and Mme. Bartet, that

divine actress, preparing to utter, in her entrancing voice, M. Edmund

Rostand's famous lines beginning, "Oh! Oh! _Voici une impératrice!_"[3]

while the Tsaritsa, at first a little lost amid these new surroundings,

found a friend in the Marquise de Montebello, our agreeable

ambassadress in St. Petersburg, of whom people used to say that she

justified Turgenev's epigram when he declared that, wherever you see

a Frenchwoman, you see all France; while the most complete serenity

seemed to reign among the inhabitants of the château, a solemn question

was stirring all men's minds. Would the Tsar go to Paris? As it was,

the people of Paris were disappointed because the reception had not

been held in the capital, as in 1896; would he give it the compensation

of a few hours' visit? A special train was awaiting, with steam up, in

the station at Compiègne; long confabulations took place between the

Emperor and M. Waldeck-Rousseau; a luncheon was prepared at the Élysée

with a view to the entertainment of an illustrious guest; secret orders

were given to the police. In short, nobody doubted that Nicholas II

intended to carry out a plan which everybody ascribed to him.

Nothing came of it. The Tsar did not go to Paris.

This sudden change of purpose was interpreted in different ways. Some

people pretended that the prime minister was at the bottom of it, M.

Waldeck-Rousseau having declared that he could not answer for the

Emperor's safety in view of the inadequate nature of the preparations.

In reality, we never learnt the true reasons; and I have often asked

myself whether this regrettable decision should not be attributed to

the influence of "Philippe."

Who was "Philippe"? A strange, disconcerting being, who had something

of the quack about him and something of the prophet and who followed

the Tsar like a shadow.

His story was an astounding one from start to finish. He was a native

of Lyons--a Frenchman, therefore--who pretended, with the assistance

of mystical practices and of inner voices which he summoned forth

and consulted, to be able to cure maladies, to forestall dangers, to

foresee future events. He gave consultations and wrote prescriptions,

for he did not reject the aid of science. And, as he came within the

law which forbids the illegal practice of medicine, he hit upon the

obvious expedient of marrying his daughter to a doctor, who acted as

his man of straw. His waiting-room was never empty from the day when

the Grand-duke Nicholas Michaelovitch, chancing to pass through Lyons

and to hear of this mysterious personage, thought that he would consult

him about his rheumatism. What happened? This much is certain, that

the grand-duke, on returning to Russia, declared that Philippe had

cured him as though by magic and that he possessed the power not only

of driving out pain, but of securing the fulfilment of every wish. The

Emperor, at that time, was longing for an heir. Greatly impressed by

his cousin's stories and by his profound conviction, he resolved to

summon the miracle-monger to St. Petersburg. This laid the foundation

of Philippe's fortunes. Admirably served by his lucky star, highly

intelligent, gifted with the manners of an apostle and an appearance

of absolute disinterestedness, he gradually succeeded in acquiring a

considerable hold not only on the imperial family, but on the whole

court. People began to believe very seriously in his supernatural

powers. Made much of and respected, he had free access to the

sovereigns and ended by supplanting both doctors and advisers. He also

treated cases at a distance, by auto-suggestion. Whenever he obtained

leave to go home on a visit, he kept up with his illustrious clients an

exchange of telegrams that would tend to make us smile, if they did not

stupefy us at the thought of so much credulity. Thus, a given person of

quality would wire:

"Suffering violent pains head entreat give relief."

Whereupon Philippe would at once reply:

"Have concentrated thought on pain; expect cure between this and five

o'clock to-morrow."

This is not an invention: I have seen the telegrams.

For people to have so blind a faith in his mediation, he must obviously

have effected a certain number of cures. As a matter of fact, I believe

that the power of the will is such that, in certain affections which

depended partly upon the nervous system, he succeeded in suggesting to

a patient that he was not and could not be ill.

However, what was bound to happen, happened. His star declined from

the day when people became persuaded that he was not infallible. The

Tsar's set precipitated his disgrace when the Tsaritsa brought another

daughter into the world, instead of the promised son. One fine day,

Philippe went back to Lyons for good; he died there a few years ago.

And, in the following year, the mighty empire had an heir!

At the time of the visit of the sovereigns to Compiègne, he was still

at the height of his favour. He accompanied our imperial hosts; and his

presence at the château surprised us as much as anything. In fact, like

the Doge of Venice who came to Versailles under Louis XIV, he himself

might have said:

"What astonishes me most is to see myself here!"

But Philippe was astonished at nothing. Anxious to retain his

personality in the midst of that gold-laced crowd, he walked about the

apartments in a grey suit and brown shoes; on the first day, he was

within an ace of being arrested; we took him for an anarchist!

Our extreme distrust, to which the unfortunate Philippe nearly fell a

victim, was only too well justified. I believe that I am not guilty

of an indiscretion--for the memorable events of 1901 are now a matter

of history--when I say to-day that there was an attempt, an attempt of

which our guests never heard, because a miraculous accident enabled us

to defeat its execution in the nick of time.

It was in the cathedral of Rheims that the criminal effort was to be

accomplished during the visit of the sovereigns, who had expressed a

desire to see the inside of that exquisite fabric. On learning of Their

Majesties' intention, our colleagues of the Russian police displayed

the greatest nervousness:

"Nothing could be easier," they told us, a few days before the visit,

"than for a Terrorist to deposit a bomb in some dark place, under a

chair, behind a confessional, or at the foot of a statue. The interior

of the cathedral must be watched from this moment, together with the

people who enter it."

Although we had already thought of this, they decided, on their part,

to entrust this task to an "informer"--in other words, a spy--of

Belgian nationality, who had joined the Russian detective-service.

Hennion, who was always prudent, hastened, in his turn, to set a watch

on the "informer." Twenty-four hours later, one of his men came to see

him in a great state of fright:

"M. Hennion," he said, "I have obtained proof that the 'informer' is

connected with a gang of Terrorists. They are preparing an attack in

the cathedral!"

Hennion did not hesitate for a moment. He hastened to Rheims,

instituted a police-search in a room which the "informer" had secretly

hired under a false name and seized a correspondence which left no

doubt whatever as to the existence of the plot. The "informer" himself

was to do the dirty work!

He was at once arrested and pressed with questions:

"I swear that I know nothing about it," he exclaimed, "and that's the

plain truth!"

"Very well," said Hennion, who held absolute proof. "Take this man to

prison," he ordered, "since he's telling the truth, and drag him back

to me when he decides to tell a lie."

The next day, the man confessed.

This was the only tragic episode that occurred during the imperial

visit. Nevertheless, in spite of the satisfaction which we had felt

at receiving the Tsar and Tsaritsa, we heaved a sigh of relief when,

on the following day, we saw the train that was to take them back to

Russia steam out of the station.

They were still alive, God be praised! But that was almost more than

could be said of us!

V

THE KING AND QUEEN OF ITALY

1.

I have always harboured a vagrant spirit under my official frock-coat.

I find my pleasure and my rest in travelling. I, therefore, took

advantage of a few weeks' leave of absence, allowed me after the

departure of the Russian sovereigns, to pay a visit to Italy.

A few days after my arrival at Milan, I was strolling, one afternoon,

on the well-known Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele, that favourite Milanese

and cosmopolitan resort, whose incessant and picturesque animation

presages the gaiety, if not the charm of Italy, when the window of a

glove-shop caught my eye and reminded me that I had left my gloves

in the railway-carriage. I thought I might as well buy myself a new

pair; and I entered the shop. A customer had gone in before me. It was

a lady, young, tall and slender, quietly but elegantly dressed in a

plain, dark travelling-frock. Through the long blue motor-veil that

close-shrouded her face and even her hat, a pair of eyes gleamed,

black and, as I thought, large and beautiful; her hair was dark and, as

far as I could see, she had masses of it; the face seemed refined and

pretty. Leaning on the counter, she tried on the gloves which a young

shop-assistant handed to her. None of them fitted her.

"They are too large," she said, shyly.

"That is because the signora has so small a hand," replied the young

assistant, gallantly.

She smiled and did not answer; the elderly lady who was with her gave

the youth an indignant and scandalised glance. After patiently allowing

the measure to be taken of her hand, open and closed--it was indeed a

very small one--she ended by finding two pairs of gloves to suit her,

paid for them and went out.

Just then, the owner of the shop returned. He looked at the lady,

gave a bewildered start, bowed very low and, as soon as she was gone,

shouted to his assistant:

"Have you the least idea whom you have been serving?"

"A very pretty woman, I know that!"

"Idiot! It was the Queen!"

The Queen! It was my turn to feel bewildered. The Queen, alone,

unprotected, in that arcade full of people! I was on the point of

following her, from professional habit, forgetting that I was at Milan

not as an official, but as a private tourist. A still more important

reason stopped my display of zeal: it was too late; the charming vision

was lost in the crowd.

2.

The next evening, I was dining at a friend's house, where the guests

belonged, for the most part, to the official and political world. When

I related my adventure and expressed my astonishment at having met the

sovereign making her own purchases in town, accompanied by a stern

lady-in-waiting:

"Did that surprise you?" I was asked. "It does not surprise us at

all. One of our haughty princesses of the House of Savoy said,

sarcastically, that we had gone back to the times when kings used to

mate with shepherdesses. This was merely a disrespectful sally. The

truth is that both our King and Queen have very simple tastes and that

they like to live as ordinary people, in so far as their obligations

permit them. Let me give you an instance in point; whenever they come

to Milan--and they never stay for more than two or three days--they go

to the royal palace, of course, but, instead of living in the state

apartments and bringing a large number of servants, they prefer to

occupy just a few rooms, have their meals sent in from the Ristorante

Cova and order the dishes to be all brought up at the same time and

placed on a sideboard. Then they dismiss the servants, shut the doors

and wait upon themselves."

In our sunny countries--I can speak for them, as a Corsican--we love

pomp and ceremony. I seemed to observe in the friends who gave me this

striking illustration of the royal simplicity a touch of bitterness,

perhaps of regret. Remarks that came to my ears later led me to the

conclusion that the aristocracy, if not the people, disapproved of

their sovereign's democratic tendencies, which contrasted with the ways

of the old court, of which Queen Margherita had been the soul and still

remained the living and charming embodiment.

No doubt. Queen Helena's "manner" was entirely different from that

of Margherita of Savoy, whose highly-developed and refined culture,

whose apposite wit, whose engaging mode of address, built up of shades

that appealed to delicate minds, had attracted to the Quirinal the

pick of intellectual, artistic and literary Italy and held it bound

in fervent admiration. Educated at the court of her father, Prince

Nicholas, Helena of Montenegro had grown up amid the austere scenery

of her native land, in constant contact with the rugged simplicity of

the Montenegrin highlanders; her wide-open child-eyes had never rested

on other than grave and manly faces; her girlhood was decked not with

fairy-tales, but with the old, wild legends of the mountains, or else,

with epics extolling the heroism of those who, in the days of old,

had driven the foreign invader from the valleys of Antivari or the

lofty plateaux of Cetinje. At the age of twelve, she was sent to St.

Petersburg to finish her studies. There, in the promiscuous intercourse

of a convent confined to young ladies of gentle birth, she had known

the charm of friendships that removed all differences of social rank

between her fellow schoolgirls and herself, while her mind opened to

the somewhat melancholy beauties of Slav literature. On returning to

her country, she enjoyed, in the fulness of an independence wholly

undisturbed by the demand of etiquette, the healthy delights of an

open-air life, which she divided between water-colour drawing, in which

she excelled, and sport in which she showed herself fearless.

When, therefore, she saw Italy for the first time in 1895 and saw it

through the gates of Venice, where her father had taken her on the

occasion of an exhibition; when, one evening, in the midst of the

fanciful and to her novel scene of the lagoon arrayed in its holiday

attire, she saw the homage of a glowing admiration in the eyes of

the then Prince of Naples, it will readily be conceived that she was

flurried and a little dazzled. When, lastly, in the following year,

she bade farewell to her craggy mountains and to the proud highlanders,

the companions of her childhood, and saw the gay and enthusiastic

nation of Italy hastening to welcome her, the twenty-years-old bride,

with the hopes and promises which she brought with her, it will be

understood that she at first experienced a sense of confusion and

shyness.

The shyness, I am told, has never completely worn off. On the other

hand, in the absence of more brilliant outward qualities, Queen Helena

has displayed admirable domestic virtues; she has known how to be a

queen in all that this function implies in regard to noble and delicate

missions of devotion and goodness to the poor and lowly. And she has

done better than that: she has realised her engrossing duties as wife

and mother; and they are sweet and dear to her.

Had this been otherwise, the King's character, which is quick to take

offence, and his jealous fondness would have suffered cruelly. He too

is shy, he too is a man of domestic habits, who has always avoided

society and pleasure. Possessing none of the physical qualities that

attract the crowd, endowed with an unimaginative, but, on the other

hand, a reflective and studious mind, remarkably well-informed,

highly-intelligent, passionately enamoured of social problems and

the exact sciences, none was readier than he to enjoy the charm of

a peaceful home which he had not known during his youth. Touching,

in fact, though the attachment between the son and mother was, they

nevertheless remained separated by the differences in their character,

their temperament and their ideas. Whereas Queen Margherita kept all

her enthusiasm for art and literature, the Prince of Naples displayed,

if not a repugnance, at least a complete indifference to such matters.

When he was only ten years of age, he said to his piano-mistress,

Signora Cerasoli, who was appointed by his mother and who vainly

struggled to instil the first principles of music into his mind:

"Don't you think that twenty trumpets are more effective than that

piano of yours?"

To make amends, he showed from his earliest youth a marked predilection

for military science. He had the soul of a soldier and submitted,

without a murmur, to the strict discipline imposed upon him by his

tutor, Colonel Osio. He is still fond of relating, as one of the

pleasantest memories of his life, the impression which he felt on the

day when King Humbert first entrusted him with the command of a company

of foot at the annual review of the Roman garrison:

"The excitement interfered so greatly with my power of sight," he says,

"that the only people I recognised in the cheering crowd were my

dentist and my professor of mathematics."

His keen love of the army became manifest when, as heir apparent,

he received the command of the army-corps of Naples. Frivolous

and light-headed Neapolitan society looked forward to receiving a

worldly-minded prince and rejoiced accordingly; but it soon discovered

its mistake; the prince, scorning pleasure, devoted himself exclusively

to his profession and left his barracks only to go straight back to the

Capodimonte Palace, where he spent his spare time in perfecting himself

in the study of military tactics.

When, at last, the tragedy of Monza called him suddenly to the throne,

the manliness of his attitude, the firmness of his character and the

soberness of his mind impressed the uneasy and scattered world of

politics. He insisted upon drawing up his first proclamation to the

Italian people with his own hand and in it proved himself a man of the

times, thoroughly acquainted with the needs and aspirations of modern

Italy.

"I know," he said to Signor Crispi, a few days after his accession, "I

know all the responsibilities of my station and I would not presume to

think that I can remedy the present difficulties with my own unaided

strength. But I am convinced that those difficulties all spring from

one cause. In Italy, there are few citizens who perform their duty

strictly: there is too much indolence, too much laxity. Italy is at a

serious turning-point in her history; she is eaten up with politics;

she must absolutely direct her energies towards the development of

her economic resources. Her industries will save her by improving her

financial position and employing all the hands at present lying idle

in an inactivity that has lasted far too long. I shall practise what I

preach by scrupulously following my trade as king and by encouraging

initiative, especially by encouraging the social and economic evolution

of the country."

Let me do him this justice: he has kept his promises. A will soon

made itself conspicuous under that frail exterior. He applied to

the consideration of every subject the ardour of an insatiable

curiosity and his wish to know things correctly and thoroughly. He

studied the confused conditions of Italian parliamentary life with

as much perseverance as the social question. It is possible that, by

democratising the monarchy, he has forestalled popular movements which,

in a country so passionate in its opinions and so exuberant in its

manifestations as Italy, might have caused irreparable disorders and

delayed the magnificent progress of the nation.

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