CUTTING HARNESS.
The cutting of harness leather so as to avoid waste, and to secure
that best suited to the requirements of each individual strap is a
subject of the first importance to every harness maker, no matter what
the extent of his business may be. Leather scraps are of no value,
though every piece has been paid for, while the use of the softest
and weakest part of the leather in straps that receive the greatest
amount of strain insures the production of an inferior harness, be it
ever so well made up. The cutter therefore lays the foundation for,
and upon his skill depends much of, the manufacturer’s success. In
large factories this is well understood, and the most skilful men are
employed at high wages to cut up stock.
These cutters are of necessity governed by the grade of harness and
kind of stock used, and are guided solely by their own judgment, there
being no general rule that can be applied to each individual case. The
small manufacturer, however, is differently situated, and by following
rules that have been adopted by those who have had years of experience
in the best shops of the country, he will not only save stock, but
produce much more durable harness. The cutter receives his leather
in three forms, known to the trade as weight stock, trimmed stock,
and backs; these are illustrated by Fig. I. The extreme outline shows
the side in full; this is sold as weight stock—that is, by its actual
weight at the time of purchase. The dotted line commencing at the root
of the tail and passing down the back end, along the belly and up
the front to the top, shows the general form of the hide after being
trimmed, though in some cases the trimming consists of merely cutting
off a few of the most prominent points and slightly straightening the
edges. The dotted line A, running parallel with the length of the hide,
indicates the bottom line of what is known as the back (the width of
which is governed by the condition of the hide itself), the line of
separation being drawn just above the thin portion of the flank, the
position of which is shown by the dotted line B, the ends being trimmed
the same as in trimmed stock.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
A harness maker who does a small business of a general nature will find
it most profitable to buy weight stock of the best quality; he can then
crop it, as it is called—that is, cut the side in two parts at or about
the line A. This will give him three straight edges to work from in
cutting out straps for repairing and other small jobs, obviating the
necessity of splitting his leather to obtain straps for the requisite
thickness, and also avoiding the spoiling of a trace or rein by cutting
a small strap from the back, as he would be compelled to do under
other circumstances. In cutting, there is one point that should not
be overlooked, namely, to avoid as far as possible the use of the
splitting-machine to reduce the straps to the required thickness. This
machine materially facilitates the labor of the workman, but it is
positively injurious to the leather, and should not be used when it is
possible to dispense with it. For small straps the spokeshave works
nearly if not quite as expeditiously, and is in no way injurious.
The cutter must first ascertain the actual condition of the hide he
proposes to cut up. If one hide is to be used exclusively for a single
harness, it must be of good quality, uniform thickness, and free from
blemishes; but if a number of harness are to be cut at one time, the
sides should be selected, the finest and most uniform in thickness
being used for traces, reins, etc., but those having thick butts and
thin shoulders should be cut up in short straps, in the manner shown by
Fig. 1.
The dotted line represents the straightened edge. If the back for a
few inches below this line is of suitable thickness for traces, that
portion of it between C and D may be used for this purpose, and all the
back end between D and A, back of E, be cut up for short, heavy straps,
such as hold-backs, martingales, breast straps, etc., for express or
team harness, and shaft girth-billets, back-bands, breeching-straps,
etc., for carriage-harness. The shoulder forward of the line E, being
thin, is admirably adapted to docks, and should be cut as shown by
lines X. Being cut across the grain, they work up smoothly on the
inside, the few wrinkles that are formed by bending being easily rubbed
out. The remaining portion of the side, such as bellies, etc., be cut
into folds and linings, and the short, firm pieces into buckle chapes
and short billets, thus utilizing every part.
To cut a single harness out of a side of leather requires an entirely
different process, which will be explained in detail, the side with the
different sections being shown by Fig. 2.
A side for this purpose if of closely trimmed stock should weigh about
sixteen pounds, the rough brand being seventeen or eighteen.
The back should first be straightened as shown by the dotted line A,
which should be drawn as nearly as possible on a line parallel with the
center of the back-bone. It may be necessary to waste a little stock
to do this, but the advantage of having the fibre of the side parallel
with the edges of the straps will more than repay the loss occasioned.
Having straightened the center cut of the tail as shown by line 1,
then measure off from line 1 the full length required for the traces
and reins, cut in line 2 of the same depth as line 1, and cut the
requisite straps for these parts. This will leave the back perfectly
straight, unless, as sometimes occurs, the side from the root of the
tail is shaped like that shown. In this case, straighten the new line
by cutting off the small piece back of line 1, and cut the straight
cross-line 3, then measure from the back end the length required for
the breeching-straps, and cut these from B. This will leave the edge
with a jag at line 4, which should be straightened before cutting any
other straps from the back end.
It may be well to state at this point that keeping a straight edge
the full length of the side, and cutting the cross-lines no deeper
than absolutely necessary to release the straps, are two important
considerations, which if not observed will result in no little waste
of leather. A very common fault of the cutters, and one that should
be carefully guarded against, is the holding of the knife at an acute
angle, and cutting from the under side, allowing it to cut into the
side of leather in order to release the end of the strap previously
slit off.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
The offset C, forward of the cross-line 4, can be cut up into layers
for girths. These being removed, the edge is once more straight, and
the cutter should measure off from the back end section the requisite
length for the turnback or hip-straps, cutting in on line 5, the same
lengths answering for shaft tug-billets and back-bands, giving a pair
of each by cutting in the middle. Sections H and M may be cut up into
breast collar-layers, crown pieces, breeching-layers, neck-straps,
nose-pieces, martingale-layers, etc., and, if not too heavy, into
check-pieces, throat-latches, and center check-pieces in the order
named. Section E should be cut into straps that require rounding, such
as checks, round throat-latches, etc., and section K into linings and
points, always measuring from the back end, and retaining the head and
neck part that is left in as large a piece as possible. By this time
all the heaviest straps are provided for and the best portion cut up.
The section X, indicated by the dotted line, represents the thin, baggy
flank, which should not be cut up into straps, but can be used to good
advantage for linings to winkers. Section P, back of this, is just what
is required for winker-braces, the back end being thick, the leather
gradually growing thinner as the flank is approached. All that part
of the side forward of the flank, and below section K, can be worked
up into folds, cutting the breeching, breast-collar, neck-straps,
belly-bands, and crowns in the order named. The thick end back of the
flank, and below section P, can be cut up into buckle chapes, short
billets, etc., while the thin ends and other irregular-shaped pieces
can be used to good advantage for linings for tabs, etc. It is not
claimed that this system of cutting can be strictly carried out in
all cases, but by following the general order given, the cutter will
be sure of securing just such leather as is needed for the particular
straps named, and will at the same time avoid all unnecessary waste.
Certain defects in the side may necessitate slight changes in the
section indicated for certain straps, but when the blemishes are
removed the regular order given should be followed, providing that the
straps requiring great strength are not crowded below the line A in
Fig. 1.
[Illustration: PHAETON HARNESS.]