Transcriber’s Notes:
Equal signs “=” before and after a word or phrase indicate =bold=
in the original text.
Small capitals have been converted to SOLID capitals.
Illustrations have been moved so they do not break up paragraphs.
Typographical and punctuation errors have been silently corrected.
[Illustration: GOLDSMITH MAID, WITH TRACK HARNESS.]
THE
HARNESS MAKERS’
ILLUSTRATED
MANUAL.
SECOND EDITION.
A PRACTICAL GUIDE BOOK FOR MANUFACTURERS AND MAKERS
OF HARNESS, PADS, GIG SADDLES, ETC.,
CONTAINING
DIRECTIONS FOR SELECTING, CUTTING, AND PREPARING
LEATHER; TABLES OF LENGTHS AND WIDTHS FOR
CUTTING TRACK, SINGLE AND DOUBLE ROAD,
COUPÉ, COACH, EXPRESS, TEAM AND FARM
HARNESS, HALTERS, HORSE BOOTS, ETC.;
RECIPES FOR PREPARING BLACKINGS, STAINS, OILS,
AND LEATHER VARNISHES;
HINTS ON RENOVATING AND REPAIRING HARNESS;
NOTES ON HARNESS MOUNTINGS, WITH DESCRIPTIONS AND
ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MOST POPULAR
STYLES AND KINDS.
ADAPTED TO THE OFFICE AND THE WORKSHOP.
BY
W. N. FITZ-GERALD,
NEW YORK.
1880.
Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1880,
By WM. N. FITZ-GERALD,
in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS LEATHER.
PAGE
The peculiar Characteristics of Leather—Test by which
the Quality may be determined—Effect of strong Acids in
Coloring—Impure Oils—Kinds of Harness Leather—Oak,
Hemlock, and Union Tanned; the Nature of each—Hides
suitable for making Harness Leather—Causes of “Gum,
Spew, or Fry”—The Effect of Dampness—Weights to be
selected for all Kinds of Harness—Grain Leather for Folds 21
CHAPTER II.
RUSSET LEATHER.
Selecting Rein Leather—Stains—Comparative Value of
good and poor Stock—Hand Part Leather—Graining in
the Workshop—Buff Leather—Loop Leather—The Necessity
of a Mellow Grain; uniform Thickness unimportant—Buying
Leather—Weight Stock—Unreliability of the rough
Brand—Backs—Cropping—Trimmed Stock 33
CHAPTER III.
PATENT LEATHER.
Glazed Leather—The Uses to which it is put—Quality of
Hides—Splits, how designated—The Effect of Splitting
upon the Grain—Varnishing, Drying, and Finishing—Enamel
Leather—Texture, Color, and Finish—Stretching Leather
injurious to the Fibre—Care of Patent Leather—When the
best Leather is made—July and August unfavorable months 40
CHAPTER IV.
CUTTING HARNESS.
How to cut to avoid Waste—Value of Scraps—The
Responsibility of the Cutter—Illustration of a Side of
Weight Stock—Directions for Cutting—Dividing the Side
to the best Advantage—Objections to the Splitting Machine
—Cutting a Harness from one Side—Illustration of a trimmed
Side—Weight—Details for Cutting the different Straps 45
CHAPTER V.
PREPARING THE LEATHER FOR THE FITTER.
Wetting the Stock—Drying—How long to soak—Testing
Strap—Trimming the Flesh Side—Applying Tallow—Straps
not to be disturbed until the Water has dried out—Cleaning
and Slicking—The Effect of recurrying—Blacking Leather
for a Single-Strap Harness—Wetting common Stock 53
CHAPTER VI.
MEASURING FOR HARNESS.
Lack of System—Result of improper Lengths—Length of Hame
Tugs—Lengths adopted by prominent Manufacturers—Harness
for Horses of different Sizes—Lengths governed by Localities 58
CHAPTER VII.
TABLES OF LENGTHS.
No. 1. Single-Strap Track Harness—No. 2. Single Road
Harness—No. 3. Single Harness (Breast Collar)—No. 4.
Single Harness (Hame Collar)—No. 5. Heavy Coupé Harness
—No. 6. Double Road Harness—No. 7. Short Tug Coach Harness
—No. 8. Long Tug Coach Harness—No. 9. English Four-in-Hand
—No. 10. Tandem—No. 11. Single Express—No. 12. Heavy
Express—No. 13. Long Tug Team Harness—No. 14. Long Tug Farm
Harness—No. 15. Wagon Harness with adjustable Trees—No. 16.
Adjustable Pad Double Harness—No. 17. Pennsylvania Wagon
Harness—No. 18. Stage Harness—No. 19. Bitting Harness—No.
20. Cart Harness—No. 21. Mule Harness—No. 22. Short Tug
Butt Chain Harness—Trimmings for Carriage Harness 64
CHAPTER VIII.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING UP A BREAST COLLAR SINGLE HARNESS.
Result of Neglect in learning the Trade—Want of System—
Importance of the Fitter and Stitcher working in Unison—
Wetting the Stock—Skiving and slicking the Straps—Fitting
up the Shaft Tugs, Docks, and Winker Brace—Finishing the
Edges—Prepared Tallow—Gum Tragacanth—Cutting and preparing
the Patent Leather—Finishing up Rounds—Making Docks—
Importance of good Patterns—How to prepare the Patterns 112
CHAPTER IX.
MAKING SINGLE-STRAP TRACK HARNESS.
Its Origin—Skill required in making up—How to attain the
best Results—Steer Hides the best—Weight of Side required
—Sectional Drawings—Safety Strap—Half Kemble Jackson check 122
CHAPTER X.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING TEAM HARNESS.
Mistaken Ideas regarding Team Harness—Selecting Stock—
Weights to be used—General Directions for cutting and
fitting—Pads—Filling Folds—Bridles, the Importance of
proper Proportions—Lines, Lengths—Mountings, the Importance
of Strength—Stitching to be done with white Thread—Coarse
stitching the strongest—Fitting and stitching Traces—Final
Finish—Heavy ornamental Truck Harness—Bridles, Coach Style
—Wheel Harness without Pads—Traces and Safes, how cut—
Lead Harness—Loin Straps—Mountings—Collars 128
CHAPTER XI.
MAKING GIG SADDLES.
Cleaning and treeing up the Tree—Preparing the Seat
Leather—Preparing the Frame—Making Jockeys—Flopping
off—Making Loops—Cutting and fitting Points—Back
Bands—Quality of Leather—Making the Pads—Stuffing—
Materials used—Changing Shape of Patterns 139
CHAPTER XII.
PADS FOR COACH AND TEAM HARNESS.
Improvements—Patent Pads—Directions for making Coach
Pads—Socket Piece, how to cut—Fitting up—Cutting
Felt for the Pad—Stitching, etc—Hair-stuffed Pads—
Directions for making—Soft Pad illustrated—Cutting Tops
and Sides—Hard Pad, Directions for making—Illustrated—
Plain Pads, Directions for making 149
CHAPTER XIII.
MAKING HARNESS LOOPS.
Kinds of Loops in use—Patent Loops, how made—Advantages
of hand made Loops—Selecting Stock—Wetting the Leather
—Fullness necessary—Creasing—Back Clamp Iron—Working
up Sides before creasing—Coloring and finishing—Pressed
Loops, stitching on—How they are made—Time needed to press
—Variety of Patterns—How cheap Harness are improved by
their use 161
CHAPTER XIV.
STITCHING HARNESS.
The End to be attained—Thread, Size and Number of Strands
—White Thread the strongest—Making up the Thread—Waxing
before twisting—The Kind of Wax for specific Purposes—
Importance of Care in Stitching—How the Stitches are laid
—Irregularity produced by not drawing the Threads evenly
—To cause both Sides to appear alike—Points to be observed 168
CHAPTER XV.
MAKING ROUND REINS.
Good Stock a Necessity—Directions for Cutting—Dampening
the Leather—Making the Stop—Marking off for the Billet—
Filling up and rounding—Board Iron, how made—Rounding and
trimming—Stain, how made—Advantage of using Shellac—Rein
Ends, illustrated 175
CHAPTER XVI.
COACH AND WAGON BRIDLES.
The most ornate Part of the Harness—Winkers, Style and
Finish—“Hinging”—English Coach Bridle Cuttings—
Illustrations of various Styles of Bridles—Crown Pieces 182
CHAPTER XVII.
RIDING BRIDLES.
Uniformity of Style—How they are named—Cuttings for various
Kinds—Illustration—Leather used—English Russet—Buff
Leather—Stitching not used for ornamenting 196
CHAPTER XVIII.
HALTERS.
The Varieties—United States Government Halter—Spanish
Halter—French Halter—Training Halter—Bitting Halter
—Stable Halter—Yankee Halter—Double Cheek Halter—
Slip Halter—Team Halter—Cuttings and Illustrations 205
CHAPTER XIX.
HORSE BOOTS.
Success in making Knee, Shin, Ankle, and Combination Boots
—Directions for making—Illustrations for Weights—How made
—Illustrations 224
CHAPTER XX.
HARNESS MOUNTINGS.
Classes and Styles—Plated, close and electro—Grades of Silver
for Close Plate—How to determine the Quality—Electro Plate
less durable, but cheaper—Tarnishing not an Evidence of Impurity
—Gold Plate—Nickel—Its Color and Advantages—Brass not popular
—Oroide, its Color—Not desirable except as a Base for Gilding
—Aluminum the most expensive Metal—German Silver, its
superiority as a white Metal—Covered Mountings—Leather and
Composition—Leather used—Liability to rip—Improvements made
—Rubber-covered—When patented—Description of Process of
Manufacture—Celluloid-covered—Description of Manufacture—
Tinned—XC Plate—Japanned—Patented Styles—Illustrations of
Terrets, Hooks, etc. 249
CHAPTER XXI.
BUCKLES.
Patent Trace—Harness—Trace—Collar—Center Bar—Popular
Styles—Illustrations 271
CHAPTER XXII.
BITS AND BITTING HARNESS.
Brutal Devices—Popular Styles—Snaffle—Dexter—Hanoverian—
Half Cheek Trotting Snaffle—Metals used—Steel not desirable
—Unreliability of Malleable Iron—System of numbering—How
designated—Illustrations—Bitting Harness—Wooden Jockey,
illustrated—Patent Jockey, illustrated 281
CHAPTER XXIII.
REPAIRING HARNESS.
As important as making new Stock—False Directions—Cleaning
the Leather an important Consideration—When to repair—
Cleaning the Surface before oiling—How to soften old Leather
—Pure Neat’s-foot Oil the best—Castor Oil, its qualities—
Tallow the only reliable Grease—How to apply Grease—Gum,
how to remove it—Patent Leather—Varnish only will restore
the Lustre—How to clean 290
CHAPTER XXIV.
CARE OF HARNESS IN THE FACTORY AND STABLE.
Durability dependent upon Treatment—Consumers not acquainted
with the Peculiarities of Stock—The great Destroyer—Care of
Harness in Stock—White Mold—Importance of removing it
immediately—Cleaning Mountings—Pegs for hanging Harness—Daub,
how made—How to keep Russet Strapping—The Manufacturer’s duty
to his Customers—Directions for the Care of Harness in the
Stable—Mountings not to be scoured—How to clean 296
CHAPTER XXV.
LEATHER BLACKING.
Stains, Varnishes, and Polishes 302
CHAPTER XXVI.
RECIPES.
Miscellaneous Recipes for the Workshop and Harness Room 317
INDEX OF PLATES.
Goldsmith Maid, Track Harness Frontispiece.
PAGE
Double Road Harness 20
Coupé Harness 33
Phaeton Harness 53
Coach Harness 61
Breast Collar, Single Harness 113
Hame Collar, Single Harness 122
Team Harness 129
Heavy Draft Harness 137
Georgia Wagon Harness 161
PREFACE.
This book originated from a desire to furnish harness makers with a
condensed practical guide suited to the workshop, office, salesroom,
and stable. It treats of leather as furnished to the harness maker by
the currier, its texture, strength, adaptability for specific uses; how
to cut, fit, and finish; measuring for harness; complete tables for
lengths and widths for cutting the various classes in use, whether for
the carriage, farm, or road; bridles, halters, horse boots, mountings,
bits, etc.
The illustrations represent standard styles and kinds of articles used
by the trade, and guides for making up.
In the hints on repairing and caring for harness, a large amount of
information is furnished the manufacturer and consumer, in a condensed
form. The recipes for blacks, stains, varnishes, polishes, etc., have
been tested and found reliable; the whole making a methodical manual
indispensable to the progressive harness maker, and useful to every
horse owner or other person interested in harness or saddlery. It is
the only book of the kind published in the English language, and
supplies a much-needed want. Every care has been taken to present the
subjects treated on in the plainest manner, and to avoid errors. The
author confidently believes that benefit will result from following the
instructions given, and the standard of harness making be elevated.
Should this anticipation be realized, the time spent in its preparation
will be compensated for.
INTRODUCTION.
The manufacture of saddlery and harness, exclusive of all collateral
branches, stands thirty-fourth in magnitude out of the two hundred
and fifty-eight specified industries tabulated in the census report
of 1870. At that time there were in the United States 7,607 saddlery
and harness establishments, giving employment to 23,557 workmen; all
but 841 were males above 16 years of age; employing a capital of
$13,935,961; paying in wages $7,046,207; for materials, $16,068,310;
and producing goods to the value of $32,709,981. Missouri stands first
in the list in value of products, but fifth in the number of workmen
employed, and second in the wages paid. New-York stands second in value
of products, first in every other particular. Pennsylvania, Ohio,
Illinois, and New-Jersey are next in order.
By the total figures it will be seen that the average wages of the
workmen is about $299 a year, being $78 below the average for the whole
country in 1870, and $10 above the average of 1860.
There are but eleven branches of industry in which the number of
establishments exceeds those of saddlery and harness, and in view of
this fact, the average rate of wages is remarkably good. The harness
maker is called upon to supply harness, saddlery, etc., for 7,145,370
horses, 1,125,415 mules and asses, a total of 8,270,785 animals; yet
the total value of products of a year show but $4 a head for each
animal—a figure disproportionately small, and one which explains, in
part at least, why the trade is less prosperous than it should be. Were
it a business which required the investment of a large capital, the
case would be different; but as it is, the investment of a few hundred
dollars enables a man to engage in a small business which returns him
a moderate living, but one that might be lucrative if conducted in
a proper manner. The harness maker supplies an article of absolute
necessity, and there is no excuse for his placing his prices below fair
business rates. If each man in the business would properly estimate the
cost of every article, and add thereto a fair percentage of profit,
there would be less complaints as to the unprofitableness of the
harness trade. In preparing this manual the author has aimed to give
information of a practical character to the trade, which will enable
those engaged in it to conduct the workshop in a systematic manner. If
this end is accomplished, it will be one important step toward making
the business a profitable and pleasant one.
[Illustration: DOUBLE ROAD HARNESS.]
THE HARNESS MAKERS’ ILLUSTRATED MANUAL.
CHAPTER I.
HARNESS LEATHER.
Before entering upon details respecting the practical work of the
harness maker, I shall give some general directions regarding the
various kinds of leather used, its adaptation to specific grades and
patterns of harness, together with such other details as may serve to
assist the manufacturer in selecting his stock.
The familiar adage, “There is nothing like leather,” is an old one, and
it is true in more senses than one. In the first place, leather is an
article of such peculiar structure that those who have spent a lifetime
in working it can not give any reliable rules by which an inexperienced
person may judge to a certainty of its quality. The grain may be fine,
close, and to the eye all that can be desired, the flesh side smooth,
of good color, and finely finished, and yet the quality be such as to
condemn it as soon as it gets into the hands of the workman. On the
other hand, the grain may be coarse and the flesh side badly cleaned,
and yet, for actual wear, it may be of good quality. The hides from
which it was made may have been taken from old or poorly fed cattle,
insufficiently tanned, badly curried with cheap oil and tallow, stuffed
to weigh heavy, blacked with strong acids, which have passed through
the grain and rendered it hard and brittle, of uneven thickness, the
shoulders thin and unfit for general use; all of which faults are of a
serious nature, and yet a long experience, by which the eye and touch
are so educated as to detect almost by intuition defects other than the
most prominent, is the only safe and reliable guide as to the actual
merits of the leather.
There are, however, a few leading tests which assist in the acquiring
of the needful experience. The character of the hide before it was
tanned may be ascertained, in most cases, by close examination. It is a
well-known fact that cattle raised in certain sections of the country
produce much finer grained hides, possessing in a greater degree the
firm, elastic nature necessary for the production of harness leather,
than those raised in other sections. If the hide has been taken from an
old and poor animal, the grain will be coarse, uneven, and irregular,
the neck hard and rough, the flanks thick and flabby, and the
shoulders and hips thin and baggy; if from a young, well-kept animal,
the grain will in most cases be fine, close, and even, the flesh side
smooth and of a good color, and the whole side of nearly uniform
thickness. Grub holes are a sure indication of poor hides, but, as
they can be so easily detected, it is unnecessary to caution buyers to
avoid all having these defects. Short tannage is a very common fault,
but it is one that can be detected by cutting a strip from the hide and
wetting the freshly-cut edge with the tongue: if the color is uniform
throughout, and the cut edge presents a smooth and glassy appearance,
instead of being covered with fine fibres, the tannage is good. If, on
the other hand, the cut edge presents a fuzzy appearance, feels harsh
and rough when dry, and shows a white or light-colored strip through
the center when wet, it is insufficiently tanned, and the wider this
light strip the poorer is the tannage.
It frequently happens that leather which has been well tanned is
injured in the currying, and it is much more difficult to detect faults
arising from this source than those due to short tannages. The grain
may have been injured while being tanned, but it is just as liable to
injury from the use of strong acid blacks, which, while giving it a
deep black color, cause it to become hard and brittle. The best and
most reliable test for detecting this fault is to bend a narrow strip,
flesh sides together, and close it down between the teeth; if the grain
is hard and brittle, it will surely break off short, so as to show
the natural color of the leather underneath. If, however, the leather
is extra heavy, this test will be likely to rupture the grain, whether
the quality be good or bad; but if good, it will have the appearance of
having been torn asunder instead of broken off short. If the hard grain
has been produced by strong acids, which have burned it, a freshly-cut
edge will show to what depth they have penetrated, and there will be
black streaks well down into the fibres below the grain. The use of
impure oils or grease is also a source of much annoyance, it being very
difficult, in fact almost impossible, to detect the fault until after
the harness has been made up and exposed for a time in the showcase,
when the tell-tale gum-spots will appear on the surface, exposing the
fraud, though not until the manufacturer has suffered much loss by
the depreciation in the value of his harness. It sometimes happens
that these gum-spots will appear upon the grain before the side has
been cut. When this is the case the leather may be treated as we have
directed in Chapter V., and future gumming will be prevented.
These points seem to assist in the detection of the above-mentioned
faults, but they can not be relied upon under all circumstances;
frequent handling and close observation will alone give the eye and
touch the training necessary for the intelligent selection of the
different qualities. Good leather, in the language of one of the best
known and most experienced men in the harness leather trade, should
be “solid, but not hard; mellow, but not soft”—qualities that can not
be explained, but which can be detected instantly by one who has the
requisite experience. In this country there are three kinds of leather
employed by harness makers—namely, oak, hemlock, and union (oak and
hemlock) tanned, all of which are used to a considerable extent. All
other conditions being equal, however, oak-tanned leather is by far
the best. It is firmer, but not so hard as hemlock, the fibre is finer
and more dense, and, as a natural result, is not so easily affected
by water; it also works up finer, takes a much better finish, is more
easily worked, and possesses more of the qualities indispensable to
the production of good harness—strength and pliability—than any other
tannage. Hemlock leather is harder; of a dark red color, which greatly
interferes with its taking a good black, and also causes the latter
to assume a dingy brown appearance on exposure to the elements; the
grain is more open and appears coarser; it wets up quickly, and does
not dry out as soft as does oak leather; it is harder to stitch, and
is inferior in strength, particularly when the strap is placed in a
position where the strain comes on a short bend or on the edge. It is
also much heavier. A side of hemlock will weigh from eight to ten per
cent more than a side of oak leather of equal spread and thickness,
a difference that makes up for the margin in price between the two
kinds. “Union” leather is either tanned with mixed oak and hemlock
liquors, or first tanned with hemlock, and afterwards retanned with
oak, the latter operation giving it a much lighter color than it
originally possessed; in some cases the color on the flesh side being
so light as to deceive the buyer who is unacquainted with this kind
of leather. The grain is close and, as a rule, finer than either oak
or hemlock, but for harness this leather is inferior to oak in every
respect, and but a little better than hemlock. It weighs nearly as
heavy as the latter, and possesses no qualities that recommend it to
the buyer who desires good stock.
In some sections of the country, hemlock leather is made with much
care, the hides being closely selected, well tanned, and curried with
the best oil and grease. Prepared in this manner, it gives satisfaction
when not brought into direct competition with oak-tanned stock; but,
no matter how much care may have been exercised, it is inferior to
oak-tanned leather with which the same pains have been taken, and there
is but one condition under which it should receive the preference, and
that is when the choice lies between inferior oak and superior hemlock.
The following general advice may be of value to harness makers and
manufacturers of harness leather. Select hides of young steers or
heifers which were in the best condition when killed: they only possess
the requisites of fineness of grain, uniformity of thickness, and
strength of fibre. A cow or bullock hide is entirely unfitted for
this kind of leather; the butt of the former is liable to be thick
and the shoulder thin, while the latter will be thick at the head and
belly, thin and soft at the butt. Having found such a hide, examine
it further and see that it has not been damaged by scratches. These,
though apparently simple, are very injurious, as they can not be
entirely removed, and will show upon the grain as soon as the leather
is dampened by the workmen. See that there are no warble or grub holes
along the back. These are not likely to be found in hides taken from
cattle that are killed in the summer or fall. Next ascertain whether
the hide has been damaged by the butcher or not. If it has been cut,
it should never be used for harness leather. Length is an important
consideration, and many hides are seriously damaged in this respect
by the butcher having cut the animal’s throat from ear to ear, thus
shortening the hide by severing the cheeks from the body.
Tanning, though not a portion of the harness maker’s business, should
be understood by him so far as to enable him to distinguish between
the various products. Oak-tanned is superior to any other now in use
because of its being tougher and more pliable; but even oak-tanned may
not be good. There are two general methods of tanning: one the sole
leather, by which the leather is made firm and hard; the other the
upper leather, by which the leather is made pliable and tough. By the
first method greater weight is secured, but the quality is unsuited to
the use of the harness maker. Some tanners follow the former method in
part, and thereby secure a greater weight, but they can not produce
a good quality. This leather can be detected while working it by its
hard, sole-leather-like character. It does not work well in rounds,
or when being raised, and is more likely to break when subjected to a
sudden strain.
In addition to these features of tanning, there is what is known as
the short-tanned, this leather coiling like a piece of tin, and when
cut it shows a pale streak through the center. Then there is the limy
leather, with a loose, wrinkled grain, or puffed up beyond its proper
thickness, which will, upon being worked, stretch and fall away to its
natural substance. There is also the black-oak tannage. This leather
shows a greenish-yellow appearance in spots upon the flesh side. It is
soft, and possesses less strength than white-oak leather. Well-tanned
leather is too often injured in being curried; the use of poor oils and
grease causes the “gum,” “spew,” or “fry,” as it is known in different
localities; if properly curried with good oils, this pest of the
harness maker will not appear. Leather that has been well curried will
possess a surface free from roughness or wrinkles, and will be smooth
and silky to the touch.
The buyer, therefore, should insist upon the seller furnishing him with
hides such as have been recommended, reasonably free from scratches,
warble or grub holes, or cuts by the butcher, of fine, mellow tannage,
and curried in the best manner with pure oil and grease. Perfection
is not to be expected; the harness maker should aim to secure leather
possessing the minimum of defects. Hard leather is sometimes made to
feel mellow and to appear tough by being moistened by the currier.
The dampness may be detected by placing the palm of the hand upon the
thickest part of the side. Such leather shrinks in weight, and proves a
poor purchase to the buyer.
Next in importance to the procuring of a good quality of leather is the
selection of that which possesses the requisite weight and strength for
the kinds of harness designed to be made, and the particular parts for
which it is intended.
So well is this understood by leading harness-manufacturers who make
up full lines, that they never cut a harness from a single side, but
select the leather carefully and use a specific grade or weight for
each particular strap; while the leading custom manufacturers purchase
or cut only backs of the best quality. The great majority, however,
buy their leather in small quantities, and by so doing commit the
error of not procuring a proper assortment. As a rule, they select the
weight best adapted to the greater portion of their work, and when
lighter stock is needed they resort to the splitting-machine, entailing
on themselves extra labor, and wasting no inconsiderable amount of
leather, besides materially weakening the straps thus manipulated, as
the portion of the flesh side which is removed is the strongest part of
the stock.
If extra heavy straps are needed, three thicknesses of leather are
used, which in most cases calls for the use of the splitting-machine
to prevent overweight, whereby further loss is incurred. If, instead
of following this course, they would assort the sides so as to provide
themselves with a full line of weights, from six to twenty pounds
a side, they would at all times possess leather adapted to every
requirement except the heaviest truck harness, which calls for the
heavier grades. Light weights are needed for bridles, no matter what
kind of harness is to be made, and, as a rule, sides weighing fourteen
pounds and under can be cut to good advantage for this purpose. Traces,
back-bands, and breeching-straps require heavier leather, and hides
suitable for these particular straps should always be kept on hand.
A few years’ experience will enable any man to determine the proper
weights and proportions for his line of business, and he can procure
assorted stock just as easily as he can any single weight.
Light road-harness of the best quality, whether single or double, is
made up of two thicknesses and stitched throughout. The leather used
should be of the finest quality of light weights, ranging from fourteen
to sixteen pounds to the side for the harness proper, and eight to
twelve pounds for the bridles, these weights being better adapted to
this class of harness than the heavier grades that need to be split in
order to reduce them to the required thickness. The grain is generally
fine and the fibre strong; it fits up well, retains its shape, and
finishes smooth and soft.
The track-harness, which is now one of the most popular styles in use
for trotting-horses, is made up of single straps throughout, excepting
the back-bands. The leather best adapted to this style is that made
from fine-grained, young hides, the weight being about sixteen pounds
to the side for all but the bodies; these, being also single, should be
of a lighter weight, or they will have to be skived off on the under
side to prevent the edges curling up. For bridles, the same weight
should be used as for light road-harness.
The medium grade of light single harness is generally made up with
single straps and lined points. For this style a heavier leather is
required, except for the bridle, in order to obtain the requisite
firmness and strength, the best weight being from sixteen to eighteen
pounds to the side. These weights also answer well for all grades of
single or double harness up to those requiring one and one quarter
inch traces, though it is better to use heavier weights for traces,
hold-backs, and back-bands.
For light coach harness, the best weight is about eighteen pounds to
a side; but if extra heavy traces are used, it is better to select
leather sufficiently heavy to allow of the employment of only two
thicknesses, thus obviating the necessity of a filling-in piece. If
the latter is used, it should be of quite light leather.
Coach and coupé harness require heavy weights, particularly for
traces, hold-backs, back-bands, and breeching-straps; for all other
straps, excepting bridles, eighteen to twenty pounds to a side are
good weights, but the latter should be made from sides weighing about
fourteen pounds.
Light express harness, being made up of single straps, requires the use
of sides weighing from eighteen to twenty pounds each; the bridles,
however, should be made from stock of about the same weights as that
used for coach harness. These weights also answer well for farm and
the lighter grades of team harness, while heavy truck and cart harness
requires the use of the heaviest grades of leather in the market. The
above weights are those of the average spread of oak-tanned sides;
extra large or small hides, or those tanned with hemlock, may be gauged
by these.
Grain leather is much used for folds, and, as a rule, the bellies, or
at least the lower portions of trimmed hides, answer well for this
purpose; though the finest, for coach and light harness, is made from
sides weighing sixteen pounds or under, while for team and truck
harness a heavier grade is required.
[Illustration: COUPÉ HARNESS.]