As the day wore on, the crowd and the hum of it increased into a jam

and a racket. By four o'clock it was a din of wheels, cracking whips,

and postilions' cries. Great diligences, loaded down till they

squeaked and groaned on their axles; hay-wagons of all sizes, rigged

with white cloth stretched on poles for a cover, and rough planks

fastened to the sides for seats, came in procession, all packed with

the country people; hundreds of shabby einspanners, bringing two or

three, and sometimes a fourth holding on behind with dangling feet;

fine travelling-carriages of rich people, their postilions decked in

blue and silver, with shining black hats, and brass horns swung over

their shoulders by green and white cords and tassels,--on they came

into the twist and tangle, making it worse, minute by minute.

Most remarkable among all the remarkable costumes to be seen was that

of an old woman from Dachau. She was only a peasant, but she was a

peasant of some estate and degree. She had come as escort and maid for

four young women belonging to a Roman Catholic institution, and

wearing its plain uniform. The contrast between the young ladies'

conventional garb of black and white and the blazing toilet of their

guide and protector was ludicrous. She wore a jacket of brocade stiff

with red, green, and silver embroidery; the sleeves puffed out big at

the shoulder, straight and tight below to the wrist. It came down

behind only a little lower than her shoulder-blades, and it was open

in front from the throat to the waist-belt, showing beneath a solid

mass of gold and silver braid. Nine enormous silver buttons were sewed

on each side the fronts; a scarf of soft black silk was fastened tight

round her throat by a superb silver ornament, all twists and chains

and disks. Her black woollen petticoat was laid in small, close

flutings, straight from belt to hem, edged with scarlet, and

apparently was stiff enough to stand alone. It was held out from her

body, just below the belt, by a stiff rope coil underneath it, making

a tight, hard, round ridge just below her waist, and nearly doubling

her apparent size. All the women in Dachau must be as "thick" as that,

she said; and "lovers must have long arms to reach round them!" The

jacket, petticoat, and scarf, and all her ornaments, had belonged to

her grandmother. What a comment on the quality of the fabrics and the

perpetuity of a fashion! She was as elegant to-day as her ancestor had

been nearly a century before her. On her head she wore a structure of

brocaded black ribbon, built up into high projecting horns or towers,

and floating in streamers behind. As she herself was nearly six feet

tall, this shining brocade fortress on the top of her head moved about

above the heads of the crowd like something carried aloft for show in

a procession.

Another interesting sight was the peasants who had come bringing

edelweiss and blue gentians to sell,--great bunches of the lovely dark

blue chalices, drooping a little, but wonderfully fresh to have come

two days, or even three, from home; the edelweiss blossoms were there

by sheaves, and ten pfennigs a flower seemed none too much to pay to a

man who had climbed among dangerous glaciers to pick it, and had

walked three whole days to bring it to market.

The very poor people, who had walked, were the most interesting. They

came in groups, evidently families, two women to one man; carrying

their provisions in baskets, bundles, or knapsacks; worn and haggard

with dust and fatigue, but wearing a noticeable look of earnestness,

almost of exaltation. Many of them had walked forty or fifty miles;

they had brought only black bread to eat; they would sleep the two

nights on hay in some barn,--those of them who had had the great good

fortune to secure such a luxury; the rest--and that meant

hundreds--would sit on the ground anywhere where they could find a

spot clear and a rest for their heads; and after two nights and a day

of this, they trudged back again their forty miles or fifty,

refreshed, glad, and satisfied for the rest of their lives. This is

what the Passion Play means to the devout, ignorant Catholic peasant

of Bavaria to-day, and this is what it has meant to his race for

hundreds of years.

The antagonism and enlightenment of the Reformation did not reach the

Bavarian peasant,--did not so much as disturb his reverence for the

tangible tokens and presentations of his religion. He did not so much

as know when miracle plays were cast out and forbidden in other

countries. But it was sixty-one years later than this that the

Oberammergau people, stricken with terror at a plague in their

village, knew no better device to stay it than to vow to God the

performance of a Play of the Divine Passion of Christ. It is as holy a

thing to the masses of them now as it was then; and no one can do

justice to the play, even as a dramatic spectacle, who does not look

at it with recognition of this fact.

The early history of the Play itself is not known. The oldest

text-book of it now extant bears the date 1662,--nearly a generation

later than the first performance of it in Oberammergau. This

manuscript is still in possession of the Lang family, and is greatly

amusing in parts. The prologue gives an account of the New Testament

plan of salvation, and exhorts all people to avail themselves of it

with gratitude and devotion. At this juncture in rushes a demon

messenger from the devil, bearing a letter, which he unfolds and

reads. In this letter the devil requests all the people not to yield

to the influence of this play, asks them to make all the discordant

noises they can while it is going on, and promises to reward them well

if they will do so. The letter is signed: "I, Lucifer, Dog of Hell, in

my hellish house, where the fire pours out of the windows." The demon,

having read the letter aloud, folds it up and addresses the audience,

saying: "Now you have heard what my master wishes. He is a very good

master, and will reward you! Hie, Devil! up and away!" with which he

leaps off the stage, and the play at once begins, opening with a scene

laid in Bethany,--a meeting between Christ and his disciples. These

grotesque fancies, quips, and cranks were gradually banished from the

Play. Every year it was more or less altered, priest after priest

revising or rewriting it, down to the time of the now venerable

Daisenberger, who spent his youth in the monastery of Ettal, and first

saw the Passion Play acted at Oberammergau in 1830.

In 1845 the Oberammergau people, in unanimous enthusiasm, demanded to

have Daisenberger appointed as their pastor. He at once identified

himself warmly with the dramatic as well as the spiritual life of the

community; and it is to his learning and skill that the final

admirable form of the Passion Play, and the villagers' wonderful

success in rendering it, are due. He has written many Biblical dramas

and historical plays founded on incidents in the history of Bavaria.

Chief among these are: "The Founding of the Monastery of Ettal,"

"Theolinda," "King Heinrich and Duke Arnold of Bavaria," "Otto Von

Wittelsbach at the Veronese Hermitage," "The Bavarians in the

Peasants' War," "Luitberge, Duchess of Bavaria." He has also

dramatized some of the legends of the saints, and has translated the

"Antigone" of Sophocles and arranged it for the Oberammergau stage. A

half-century's training under the guidance of so learned and dramatic

a writer, who added to his learning and fine dramatic faculty a

profound spirituality and passionate adherence to the faiths and

dogmas of the Church, might well create, in a simple religious

community, a capacity and a fervor even greater than have been shown

by the Oberammergau people. To understand the extent and the method of

their attainment, it is needful to realize all this; but no amount of

study of the details of the long process can fully convey or set forth

the subtle influences which must have pervaded the very air of the

place during these years. The acting of plays has been not only the

one recreation of their life, otherwise hard-worked, sombre, and

stern,--it has been their one channel for the two greatest passions of

the human heart,--love of approbation and the instinct of religious

worship; for the Oberammergau peasant, both these passions have

centred on and in his chance to win fame, please his priest, and honor

God, by playing well some worthy part in the Passion Play. The hope

and the ambition for this have been the earliest emotions roused in

the Oberammergau child's breast. In the tableaux of the Play even very

young children take part, and it is said that it has always been the

reward held up to them as soon as they could know what the words

meant: "If thou art good, thou mayest possibly have the honor of being

selected to play in the Passion Play when the year comes round." Not

to be considered fit to take any part in the Play is held, in

Oberammergau, to be disgrace; while to be regarded as worthy to render

the part of the Christus is the greatest honor which a man can receive

in this world. To take away from an actor a part he has once played is

a shame that can hardly be borne; and it is on record that once a man

to whom this had happened sank into a melancholy which became madness.

When the time approaches for the choice of the actors and the

assignment of the parts, the whole village is in a turmoil. The

selections and assignments are made by a committee of forty-five,

presided over by the priest and by the venerable "Geistlicher Rath"

Daisenberger, who, now in his eightieth year, still takes the keenest

interest in all the dramatic performances of his pupils. The election

day is in the last week of December of the year before the Play; and

the members of the committee, before going to this meeting, attend a

mass in the church. The deciding as to the players for 1880 took

three days' time, and great heart-burnings were experienced in the

community. In regard to the half-dozen prominent parts there is rarely

much disagreement; but as there are some seven hundred actors required

for the Play, there must inevitably be antagonisms and jealousies

among the minor characters. However, when the result of the

discussions and votes of the committee is made public, all dissension

ceases. One of the older actors is appointed to take charge of the

rehearsals, and from his authority there is no appeal. Each player is

required to rehearse his part four times a week; and as early in the

spring as the snow is out of the theatre the final rehearsals begin.

Thus each Passion Play year is a year of very hard work for the

Oberammergauers. Except for their constant familiarity with stage

routine and unbroken habit of stage representation through the

intervening years, they would never be able to endure the strain of

the Passion Play summers; and as it is, they look wan and worn before

the season is ended.

It is a thankless return that they have received at the hands of some

travellers, who have seen in the Passion Play little more than a show

of mountebanks acting for money. The truth is that the individual

performers receive an incredibly small share of the profits of the

Play. There is not another village in the world whose members would

work so hard, and at so great personal sacrifice, for the good of

their community and their Church. Every dollar of the money received

goes into the hands of a committee selected by the people. After all

the costs are paid, the profits are divided into four portions: one

quarter is set aside to be expended for the Church, for the school,

and for the poor; another for the improvement of the village, for

repairs of highways, public buildings, etc.; a third is divided among

the tax-paying citizens of the town who have incurred the expense of

preparing for the Play, buying the costumes, etc. The remaining

quarter is apportioned among the players, according to the importance

of their respective parts; as there are seven hundred of them, it is

easy to see that the individual gains cannot be very great.

The music of the Play, as now performed, was written in 1814, by

Rochus Dedler, an Oberammergau schoolmaster. It has for many years

been made a _sine qua non_ of this position in Oberammergau that the

master must be a musician, and, if possible, a composer; and Dedler is

not the only composer who has been content in the humble position of

schoolmaster in this village of peasants. Every day the children are

drilled in chorus singing and in recitative; with masses and other

church music they are early made familiar. Thus is every avenue of

training made to minister to the development of material for the

perfection of the Passion Play.

Dedler is said to have been a man of almost inspired nature. He wrote

often by night, and with preternatural rapidity. The music of the

Passion Play was begun on the evening of Trinity Sunday; he called his

six children together, made them kneel in a circle around him, and

saying, "Now I begin," ordered them all to devote themselves to

earnest prayer for him that he might write music worthy of the good

themes of the Play. The last notes were written on the following

Christmas Day, and they are indeed worthy of the story for which they

are at once the expression and the setting. The harmonies are

dignified, simple, and tender, with movements at times much resembling

some of Mozart's Masses. Many of the chorals are full of solemn

beauty. A daughter of Dedler's is still living in Munich; and to her

the grateful and honest-minded Oberammergau people have sent, after

each performance of the Passion Play, a sum of money in token of their

sense of indebtedness to her father's work.

The Passion Play cannot be considered solely as a drama; neither is it

to be considered simply as a historical panorama, presenting the

salient points in the earthly career of Jesus called Christ. To

consider it in either of these ways, or to behold it in the spirit

born of either of these two views, is to do only partial justice to

it. Whatever there might have been in the beginning of theatrical show

and diversion and fantastic conceit about it, has been long ago

eliminated. Generation after generation of devout and holy men have

looked upon it more and more as a vehicle for the profoundest truths

of their religion, and have added to it, scene by scene, speech by

speech, everything which in their esteem could enhance its solemnity

and make clear its teaching. However much one may disagree with its

doctrines, reject its assumptions, or question its interpretations,

that is no reason for overlooking its significance as a tangible and

rounded presentation of that scheme of the redemption of the world in

which to-day millions of men and women have full faith. It is by no

means distinctively a Roman Catholic presentation of this scheme; it

is Christian. The Holy Virgin of the Roman Catholic Church is, in this

play, from first to last, only the mother of Jesus,--the mother whom

all lovers and followers of Jesus, wherever they place him or her,

however they define his nature and her relations to him, yet hold

blessed among the women who have given birth to leaders and saviors of

men.

This presentation of the scheme of redemption seeks to portray not

only the scenes of the life of Jesus on earth, but the typical

foreshadowing of it in the Old Testament narratives,--its prophecy as

well as its fulfilment. To this end there are given, before each act

of the Play, tableaux of Old Testament events, supposed to be directly

typical, and intended to be prophetic, of the scenes in Christ's life

which are depicted in the act following. These are selected with

skill, and rendered with marvellous effect. For instance, a tableau of

the plotting of Joseph's brethren to sell him into Egypt, is given

before the act in which the Jewish priests in the full council of the

Sanhedrim plot the death of Jesus; a tableau of the miraculous fall of

manna for the Israelites in the wilderness, before the act in which is

given Christ's Last Supper with his Disciples; the sale of Joseph to

the Midianites before the bargain of Judas with the priests for the

betrayal of Jesus; the death of Abel, and Cain's despair, before the

act in which Judas, driven mad by remorse, throws down at the feet of

the priests the "price of blood," and rushes out to hang himself;

Daniel defending himself to Darius, before the act in which Jesus is

brought into the presence of Pilate for trial; the sacrifice of Isaac,

before the scourging of Jesus and his crowning with the thorns: these

are a few of the best and most relevant ones.

The Play is divided into eighteen acts, and covers the time from

Christ's entry into Jerusalem at the time of his driving the

money-changers out of the temple till his ascension. The salient

points, both historical and graphic, are admirably chosen for a

continuous representation. In the second act is seen the High Council

of the Jewish Sanhedrim plotting measures for the ruin and death of

Jesus. This is followed by his Departure from Bethany, the Last

Journey to Jerusalem, the Last Supper, the Final Interview between

Judas and the Sanhedrim, the Betrayal in the Garden of Gethsemane.

The performance of the Play up to this point consumes four hours; and

as there is here a natural break in the action, an interval of an

hour's rest is taken. It comes none too soon, either to actors or

spectators, after so long a strain of unbroken attention and deep

emotion.

The next act is the bringing of Jesus before the High-Priest Annas;

Annas orders him taken before Caiaphas, and this is the ninth act of

the Play. Then follow: The Despair of Judas and his Bitter Reproaches

to the Sanhedrim, The Interview between Jesus and Pilate, His

Appearance before Herod, His Scourging and Crowning with Thorns, The

Pronouncing of his Death Sentence by Pilate, The Ascent to Golgotha,

The Crucifixion and Burial, The Resurrection and Ascension. The whole

lesson of Christ's life, the whole lesson of Christ's death, are thus

shown, taught, impressed with a vividness which one must be callous

not to feel. The quality or condition of mind which can remain to the

end either unmoved or antagonistic is not to be envied. But, setting

aside all and every consideration of the moral quality of the Play,

looking at it simply as a dramatic spectacle, as a matter of acting,

of pictorial effects, it is impossible to deny to it a place among the

masterly theatrical representations of the world. One's natural

incredulity as to the possibility of true dramatic skill on the part

of comparatively unlettered peasants melts and disappears at sight of

the first act, The Entry of Christ into Jerusalem.

The stage, open to the sky, with a background so ingeniously arranged

as to give a good representation of several streets of the city, is

crowded in a few moments by five hundred men and women and children,

all waving palm branches, singing hosannas, and crowding around the

central figure of Jesus riding on an ass. The verisimilitude of the

scene is bewildering. The splendor of the colors is dazzling. Watching

this crowd of five hundred actors closely, one finds not a single

man, woman, or little child performing his part mechanically or

absently. The whole five hundred are acting as if each one regarded

his part as the central and prominent one; in fact, they are so acting

that it does not seem acting: this is characteristic of the acting

throughout the play. There is not a moment's slighting or tameness

anywhere. The most insignificant part is rendered as honestly as the

most important, and with the same abandon and fervor. There are

myriads of little by-plays and touches, which one hardly recognizes in

the first seeing of it, the interest is so intense and the movement so

rapid; but, seeing it a second time, one is almost more impressed by

these perfections in minor points than by the rendering of the chief

parts. The scribes who sit quietly writing in the foreground of the

Sanhedrim Court; the disciples who have nothing to do but to appear to

listen while Jesus speaks; the money-changers picking up their coins;

the messengers who come with only a word or two to speak; the soldiers

drawing lots among themselves in a group for Jesus' garments, at a

moment when all attention might be supposed to be concentrated on the

central figures of the Crucifixion,--every one of these acts with an

enthusiasm and absorption only to be explained by the mingling of a

certain element of religious fervor with native and long-trained

dramatic instinct.

This dramatic instinct is shown almost as much in the tableaux as in

the acting. The poses and grouping are wonderful, and the power of

remaining a long time motionless is certainly a trait which the

Oberammergau people possess to a well-nigh superhuman extent. The

curtain remained up, during many of these tableaux, five and seven

minutes; and there was not a trace of unsteadiness to be seen in one

of the characters. Even through a powerful glass I could not detect so

much as the twitching of a muscle. This is especially noticeable in

the tableau of the Fall of Manna in the Wilderness, which is one of

the finest of the Play. There are in it more than four hundred

persons; one hundred and fifty of them are children, some not over

three years of age. These children are conspicuously grouped in the

foreground; many of them are in attitudes which must be difficult to

keep,--bent on one knee or with outstretched hand or with uplifted

face,--but not one of the little creatures stirs head or foot or eye.

Neither is there to be seen, as the curtain begins to fall, any tremor

of preparation to move. Motionless as death they stand till the

curtain shuts even their feet from view. Too much praise cannot be

bestowed on the fidelity, accuracy, and beauty of the costumes. They

are gorgeous in color and fabric, and have been studied carefully from

the best authorities extant, and are not the least among the surprises

which the Play affords to all who go to see it expecting it to be on

the plane of ordinary theatrical representations. The splendor of some

of the more crowded scenes is rarely equalled: such a combination of

severe simplicity of outlines and contours, classic models of drapery,

with brilliancy of coloring, is not to be seen in any other play now

acted.

The high-water mark of the acting in the Play seems to me to be

reached, not in the Christus, but by Judas. This part is played by an

old man, Gregory Lechner. He is over sixty years of age, and his snowy

beard and his hair have to be dyed to the red hue which is desired for

the crafty Judas's face. From the time when, in Simon's house, he

stands by, grumbling at the waste of the precious ointment poured by

Mary Magdalene on the feet of Jesus, to the last moment of his

wretched existence, when he is seen wandering in a desolate

wilderness, about to take his own life in his remorse and despair,

Judas' acting is superb. Face, attitudes, voice, action,--all are

grandly true to the character, and marvellously full of life. It would

be considered splendid acting on any stage in the world. Nothing could

surpass its subtlety and fineness of conception, or the fire of its

rendering. It is a conception quite unlike those ordinarily held of

the character of Judas; ascribes the betrayal neither to a wilful,

malignant treachery, nor, as is sometimes done, to a secret purpose of

forcing Jesus to vindicate his claims to divine nature by working a

miracle of discomfiture to his enemies, but to pure, unrestrained

avarice,--the deadliest passion which can get possession of the human

soul. This theory is tenable at every point of Judas' career as

recorded in the Bible, and affords far broader scope for dramatic

delineation than any other theory of his character and conduct. It is,

in fact, the only theory which seems compatible with the entire

belief in the supernatural nature of Jesus. Expecting up to the last

minute that supernatural agencies would hinder the accomplishment of

the Jews' utmost malice, he thought to realize the full benefit of the

price of the betrayal, and yet not seriously imperil either the

ultimate ends or the personal safety of Jesus. The struggle between

the insatiable demon of avarice in his heart and all the nobler

impulses restraining it is a struggle which is to be seen going on in

his thoughts and repeated in his face in every scene in which he

appears; and his final despair and remorse are but the natural

culmination of the deed which he did only under the temporary control

of a passion against which he was all the time struggling, and which

he himself held in detestation and scorn. The gesture and look with

which he at last flings down the bag of silver in the presence of the

assembled Sanhedrim, exclaiming,--

"Ye have made me a betrayer!

Release again the innocent One! My

Hands shall be clean,"

Glimpses of Three Coasts · 第 36 / 37 段