CHAPTER I

Produced by Al Haines

[Illustration: Cover art]

[Frontispiece: _Holds it the same as a slide trombone_]

IN PASTURES NEW

BY

GEORGE ADE

TORONTO

THE MUSSON BOOK COMPANY, LIMITED

1906

_Copyright, 1906, by_

McCLURE, PHILLIPS & CO.

Published, October, 1906

Copyright, 1906, by George Ade

_Many of the letters appearing in this volume were printed in a

syndicate of newspapers in the early months of 1906. With these

letters have been incorporated extracts from letters written to the

Chicago Record in 1895 and 1898. For the use of the letters which

first appeared in the Chicago Record, acknowledgment is due Mr. Victor

F. Lawson._

CONTENTS

_In London_

CHAPTER

I. Getting Acquainted with the English Language

II. A Life on the Ocean Wave, with Modern Variations

III. With Mr. Peasley in Darkest London

IV. How it Feels to Get into London and then be Engulfed

V. As to the Importance of the Passport and the Handy Little

Cable Code

VI. What one Man Picked up in London and Sent Back to His Brother

_In Paris_

VII. How an American Enjoys Life for Eight Minutes at a Time

VIII. A Chapter of French Justice as Dealt Out in the Dreyfus Case

IX. The Story of What Happened to an American Consul

_In Naples_

X. Mr. Peasley and His Vivid Impressions of Foreign Parts

_In Cairo_

XI. Cairo as the Annual Stamping Ground for Americans and Why

They Make the Trip

XII. Round about Cairo, with and without the Assistance of the

Dragoman or Simon Legree of the Orient

XIII. All about our Visit to the Pyramid of Cheops

XIV. Dashing up the Nile in Company with Mr. Peasley and Others

XV. Day by Day on the Drowsy Nile, with Something about the

Wonderful Hassim

XVI. The Mohammedan Fly and other Creatures along the Nile

XVII. In and around Luxor, with a Side Light on Rameses the Great

XVIII. The Ordinary Human Failings of the Ancient Moguls

XIX. Royal Tombs and other Places of Amusement

_In Cairo_

XX. Mr. Peasley and his Final Size-up of Egypt

IN LONDON

CHAPTER I

GETTING ACQUAINTED WITH THE

ENGLISH LANGUAGE

It may be set down as a safe proposition that every man is a bewildered

maverick when he wanders out of his own little bailiwick. Did you ever

see a stock broker on a stock farm, or a cow puncher at the Waldorf?

A man may be a large duck in his private puddle, but when he strikes

deep and strange waters he forgets how to swim.

Take some captain of industry who resides in a large city of the Middle

West. At home he is unquestionably IT. Everyone knows the size of his

bank account, and when he rides down to business in the morning the

conductor of the trolley holds the car for him. His fellow passengers

are delighted to get a favouring nod from him. When he sails into the

new office building the elevator captain gives him a cheery but

deferential "good morning." In his private office he sits at a $500

roll top desk from Grand Rapids, surrounded by push buttons, and when

he gives the word someone is expected to hop. At noon he goes to his

club for luncheon. The head waiter jumps over two chairs to get at him

and relieve him of his hat and then leads him to the most desirable

table and hovers over him even as a mother hen broods over her first

born.

This Distinguished Citizen, director of the First National Bank,

trustee of the Cemetery Association, member of the Advisory Committee

of the Y.M.C.A., president of the Saturday Night Poker Club, head of

the Commercial Club, and founder of the Wilson County Trotting

Association, is a whale when he is seated on his private throne in the

corn belt. He rides the whirlwind and commands the storm. The local

paper speaks of him in bated capital letters, and he would be more or

less than human if he failed to believe that he was a very large gun.

Take this same Business Behemoth and set him down in Paris or Rome or

Naples. With a red guide book clutched helplessly in his left hand and

his right hand free, so that he can dig up the currency of the realm

every thirty seconds, he sets forth to become acquainted with mediaeval

architecture and the work of the old masters. He is just as helpless

and apprehensive as a country boy at Coney Island. The guides and

cabmen bullyrag him. Newsboys and beggars pester him with impunity.

Children in the street stop to laugh at his Kansas City hat known to

the trade as a Fedora. When he goes into a shop the polite brigand

behind the showcase charges him two prices and gives him bad money for

change.

[Illustration: _Stop to laugh at his Kansas City hat_]

Why? Because he is in a strange man's town, stripped of his local

importance and battling with a foreign language. The man who cannot

talk back immediately becomes a weakling.

What is the chief terror to travel? It is the lonesomeness of feeling

that one cannot adapt himself to the unfamiliar background and

therefore is sure to attract more or less attention as a curio. And in

what city does this feeling of lonesomeness become most overwhelming?

In London.

The American must go to England in order to learn for a dead certainty

that he does not speak the English language. On the Continent if he

kicks on the charges and carries a great deal of hand luggage and his

clothes do not fit him any too well he may be mistaken for an

Englishman. This great joy never awaits him in London.

I do not wish to talk about myself, yet I can say with truthfulness

that I have been working for years to enrich the English language.

Most of the time I have been years ahead of the dictionaries. I have

been so far ahead of the dictionaries that sometimes I fear they will

never catch up. It has been my privilege to use words that are unknown

to Lindley Murray. Andrew Lang once started to read my works and then

sank with a bubbling cry and did not come up for three days.

It seems that in my efforts to enrich the English language I made it

too rich, and some who tried it afterward complained of mental

gastritis. In one of my fables, written in pure and undefiled Chicago,

reference was made to that kind of a _table d'hote_ restaurant which

serves an Italian dinner for sixty cents. This restaurant was called a

"spaghetti joint." Mr. Lang declared that the appellation was

altogether preposterous, as it is a well-known fact that spaghetti has

no joints, being invertebrate and quite devoid of osseous tissue, the

same as a caterpillar. Also he thought that "cinch" was merely a

misspelling of "sink," something to do with a kitchen. Now if an

American reeking with the sweet vernacular of his native land cannot

make himself understood by one who is familiar with all the ins and

outs of our language, what chance has he with the ordinary Londoner,

who gets his vocabulary from reading the advertisements carried by

sandwich men?

This pitiful fact comes home to every American when he arrives in

London--there are two languages, the English and the American. One is

correct; the other is incorrect. One is a pure and limpid stream; the

other is a stagnant pool, swarming with bacilli. In front of a shop in

Paris is a sign, "English spoken--American understood." This sign is

just as misleading as every other sign in Paris. If our English cannot

be understood right here in England, what chance have we among

strangers?

One of the blessed advantages of coming here to England is that every

American, no matter how old he may be or how often he has assisted at

the massacre of the mother tongue, may begin to get a correct line on

the genuine English speech. A few Americans, say fifty or more in

Boston and several in New York, are said to speak English in spots.

Very often they fan, but sometimes they hit the ball. By patient

endeavor they have mastered the sound of "a" as in "father," but they

continue to call a clerk a clerk, instead of a "clark," and they never

have gained the courage to say "leftenant." They wander on the suburbs

of the English language, nibbling at the edges, as it were. Anyone

living west of Pittsburg is still lost in the desert.

It is only when the Pilgrim comes right here to the fountain head of

the Chaucerian language that he can drink deep and revive his parched

intellect. For three days I have been camping here at the headwaters

of English. Although this is my fourth visit to London and I have

taken a thorough course at the music halls and conversed with some of

the most prominent shopkeepers on or in the Strand, to say nothing of

having chatted almost in a spirit of democratic equality with some of

the most representative waiters, I still feel as if I were a little

child playing by the seashore while the great ocean of British idioms

lies undiscovered before me.

Yesterday, however, I had the rare and almost delirious pleasure of

meeting an upper class Englishman. He has family, social position,

wealth, several capital letters trailing after his name (which is long

enough without an appendix), an ancestry, a glorious past and possibly

a future. Usually an American has to wait in London eight or ten years

before he meets an Englishman who is not trying to sell him dress

shirts or something to put on his hair. In two short days--practically

at one bound--I had realised the full ambition of my countrymen.

Before being presented to the heavy swell I was taken into the chamber

of meditation by the American who was to accompany me on this flight to

glory. He prepared me for the ceremony by whispering to me that the

chap we were about to meet went everywhere and saw everybody; that he

was a Varsity man and had shot big game and had a place up country, and

couldn't remember the names of all his clubs--had to hire a man by the

year just to remember the names of his clubs.

May I confess that I was immensely flattered to know that I could meet

this important person? When we are at long range we throw bricks at

the aristocracy and landed gentry, but when we come close to them we

tremble violently and are much pleased if they differentiate us from

the furniture of the room.

[Illustration: _Just to remember the names of his clubs_]

Why not tell the truth for once? I was tickled and overheated with

bliss to know that this social lion was quite willing to sit alongside

of me and breathe the adjacent atmosphere.

Also I was perturbed and stage frightened because I knew that I spoke

nothing but the American language, and that probably I used my nose

instead of my vocal chords in giving expression to such thoughts as

might escape from me. Furthermore, I was afraid that during our

conversation I might accidentally lapse into slang, and I knew that in

Great Britain slang is abhorred above every other earthly thing except

goods of German manufacture. So I resolved to be on my guard and try

to come as near to English speech as it is possible for anyone to come

after he has walked up and down State street for ten years.

My real and ulterior motive in welcoming this interview with a

registered Englishman was to get, free of charge, an allopathic dose of

24-karat English. I wanted to bask in the bright light of an intellect

that had no flickers in it and absorb some of the infallibility that is

so prevalent in these parts.

We met. I steadied myself and said:--"I'm glad to know you--that is, I

am extremely pleased to have the honour of making your acquaintance."

He looked at me with a kindly light in his steel blue eye, and after a

short period of deliberation spoke as follows:--"Thanks."

[Illustration: "_Thanks_"]

"The international developments of recent years have been such as

should properly engender a feeling of the warmest brotherhood between

all branches of the Anglo-Saxon race," I said. "I don't think that any

fair-minded American has it in for Great Britain--that is, it seems to

me that all former resentment growing out of early conflicts between

the two countries has given way to a spirit of tolerant understanding.

Do you not agree with me?"

He hesitated for a moment, as if not desiring to commit himself by a

hasty or impassioned reply, and then delivered himself as

follows:--"Quite."

"It seems to me," I said, following the same line of thought, "that

fair-minded people on both sides of the water are getting sore--that

is, losing patience with the agitators who preach the old doctrine that

our attitude toward Great Britain is necessarily one of enmity. We

cannot forget that when the European Powers attempted to concert their

influence against the United States at the outset of the late war with

Spain you bluffed them out--that is, you induced them to relinquish

their unfriendly intentions. Every thoughtful man in America is on to

this fact--that is, he understands how important was the service you

rendered us--and he is correspondingly grateful. The American people

and the English people speak the same language, theoretically. Our

interests are practically identical in all parts of the world--that is,

we are trying to do everybody, and so are you. What I want to convey

is that neither nation can properly work out its destiny except by

co-operating with the other. Therefore any policy looking toward a

severance of friendly relations is unworthy of consideration."

"Rot!" said he.

"Just at present all Americans are profoundly grateful to the British

public for its generous recognition of the sterling qualities of our

beloved Executive," I continued. "Over in the States we think that

'Teddy' is the goods--that is, the people of all sections have

unbounded faith in him. We think he is on the level--that is, that his

dominant policies are guided by the spirit of integrity. As a

fair-minded Briton, who is keeping in touch with the affairs of the

world, may I ask you your candid opinion of President Roosevelt?"

After a brief pause he spoke as follows:--"Ripping!"

"The impulse of friendliness on the part of the English people seems to

be more evident year by year," I continued. "It is now possible for

Americans to get into nearly all the London hotels. You show your

faith in our monetary system by accepting all the collateral we can

bring over. No identification is necessary. Formerly the visiting

American was asked to give references before he was separated from his

income--that is, before one of your business institutions would enter

into negotiations with him. Nowadays you see behind the chin whisker

the beautiful trade mark of consanguinity. You say, 'Blood is thicker

than water,' and you accept a five-dollar bill just the same as if it

were an English sovereign worth four dollars and eighty-six cents."

"Jolly glad to get it," said he.

"Both countries have adopted the gospel of reciprocity," I said, warmed

by this sudden burst of enthusiasm. "We send shiploads of tourists

over here. You send shiploads of English actors to New York. The

tourists go home as soon as they are broke--that is, as soon as their

funds are exhausted. The English actors come home as soon as they are

independently rich. Everybody is satisfied with the arrangement and

the international bonds are further strengthened. Of course, some of

the English actors blow up--that is, fail to meet with any great

measure of financial success--when they get out as far as Omaha, but

while they are mystifying the American public some of our tourists are

going around London mystifying the British public. Doubtless you have

seen some of these tourists?"

The distinguished person nodded his head in grave acquiescence and then

said with some feeling:--"Bounders!"

"In spite of these breaches of international faith the situation taken

as a whole is one promising an indefinite continuation of cordial

friendship between the Powers," I said. "I am darned glad that such is

the case; ain't you?"

"Rather," he replied.

Then we parted.

It was really worth a long sea voyage to be permitted to get the

English language at first hand; to revel in its unexpected sublimities,

and gaze down new and awe-inspiring vistas of rhetorical splendour.

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