A NARROW PINCH
The whaling fleet divided soon after entering the Arctic Ocean. Some of
the ships went straight on north to the whaling grounds about Point Barrow
and Herschel Island. The others bore to the westward for the whaling along
the ice north of eastern Siberia. We stood to the westward. In a few days
we had raised the white coasts of a continent of ice that shut in all the
north as far as the eye could see and extended to the Pole and far beyond.
With the winds in the autumn always blowing from the northwest, the sea
was perfectly calm in the lee of this indestructible polar cap. I have
been out in the whale boats when they were heeled over on their beam-ends
under double-reefed sails before a gale of wind upon a sea as smooth as
the waters of a duck pond.
It was now no longer bright twilight at midnight. The sun already well on
its journey to the equator, sank earlier and deeper below the horizon.
Several hours of darkness began to intervene between its setting and its
rising. By September we had a regular succession of days and nights.
With the return of night we saw for the first time that electric
phenomenon of the Far North, the aurora borealis. Every night during our
stay in the Arctic the skies were made brilliant with these shooting
lights. I had expected to see waving curtains of rainbow colors, but I
saw no colors at any time. The auroras of those skies were of pure white
light. A great arch would suddenly shoot across the zenith from horizon to
horizon. It was nebulously bright, like a shining milky way or a path of
snow upon which moonlight sparkles. You could hear it rustle and crackle
distinctly, with a sound like that of heavy silk violently shaken. It
shed a cold white radiance over the sea like the light of arc lamps, much
brighter than the strongest moonlight.
It was not quite bright enough to read by--but almost--and it threw sharp,
black shadows on the deck. Gradually the arch would fade, to be succeeded
by others that spanned the heavens from other angles. Often several arches
and segments were in the sky at the same time. Sometimes, though rarely,
the aurora assumed the form of a curtain hanging vertically along the
horizon and shimmered as though agitated by a strong wind.
I was pleasantly surprised by the temperatures encountered in the Arctic.
We were in the polar ocean until early in October, but the lowest
temperature recorded by the brig's thermometer was 10 degrees below zero.
Such a temperature seems colder on sea than on land. Greater dampness has
something to do with it, but imagination probably plays its part. There is
something in the very look of a winter sea, yeasty under the north wind
and filled with snowy floes and icebergs, that seems to congeal the marrow
in one's bones. In the cold snaps, when a big wave curled over the bows,
I have seen it break and strike upon the deck in the form of hundreds of
ice pellets. Almost every day when it was rough, the old Arctic played
marbles with us.
What with the mists, the cold rains, the sleets and snows and flying
spray, the brig was soon a mass of ice. The sides became encased in a
white armor of ice which at the bows was several feet thick. We frequently
had to knock it off. The decks were sheeted with ice, the masts and spars
were glazed with it, the shrouds, stays, and every rope were coated with
ice, and the yard-arms and foot-ropes were hung with ice stalactites. One
of the most beautiful sights I ever saw was the whaling fleet when we fell
in with it one cold, gray morning. The frost had laid its white witchery
upon the other ships as it had upon the brig, and they glided through the
black seas, pallid, shimmering, and phantom-like in their ice armor--an
armada of ghostly _Flying Dutchmen_.
The brig was constantly wearing and tacking on the whaling grounds and
there was considerable work to be done aloft. By the captain's orders, we
did such work with our mittens off. Hauling bare-handed on ropes of solid
ice was painful labor, and "Belay all!" often came like a benediction
to souls in torment. Then we had much ado whipping our hands against
our sides to restore the circulation. After Big Foot Louis had frozen a
finger, the captain permitted us to keep our mittens on.
Work aloft under such conditions was dangerous. Our walrus-hide boots were
heelless and extremely slippery and our footing on the foot-ropes was
precarious. We had to depend as much upon our hands as upon our feet to
keep from falling when strung out for reefing along the topsail yard. Many
were the slips and hair-breadth escapes. It seems now, on looking back on
it, almost miraculous that some of us green hands did not tumble to our
death.
We saw whales frequently. Sometimes the boats were lowered half a dozen
times a day. Often we spent whole days in the boats, and even in our
skin clothes it was freezing business sitting still on the gunwale of a
beam-ended boat driving along at thrilling speed in the teeth of an Arctic
gale. Our skipper was a good gambler, and he lowered whenever there was
an off chance to bag a leviathan.
As we worked to the westward, twin peaks rose out of the sea ahead of
us. Covered with snow and ice, they stood out against the sky as white
as marble. It was our first glimpse of Herald Island, in latitude 71
degrees north. We sailed north of the island and close to it. It looked
forbiddingly desolate. Along the shores there was a rampart of black rock.
Nowhere else was a glimpse of earth or herbage of any sort. The island was
a gleaming white mass of snow and ice from the dark sea to the tips of
the twin mountains. It was discovered in 1849 by Captain Kellett of the
English ship _Herald_ and named after his vessel. Captain De Long, leader
of the ill-fated _Jeanette_ expedition, was frozen in close to the island
in the winter of 1880. He found polar bear plentiful and trapped and shot
a number.
Here at Herald Island we fell in with eighteen ships of the whaling
fleet--all that had cruised to the westward--and it was only by good luck
that some of them did not leave their hulks on those desolate shores. The
polar pack rested solidly against the island's western end and curved in
a great half-moon to the north and east. The pocket thus formed between
the island and the ice looked good for whales and the ships hunted it out
carefully.
Far to the eastward, a long arm of ice reached out from the pack and
grasped the island's eastern end. This arm was perhaps a mile wide. It
barred our passage back to the open sea. The ships had been caught in a
trap. They were bottled up in a hole of water perhaps a hundred square
miles in extent. Busy on the lookout for whales, the captains of the fleet
did not realize the situation for several hours. When they discovered
their predicament, they hurried to the crow's-nests with glasses to try to
spy out an avenue of escape. Sail was cracked on. The ships began to fly
about like panic-stricken living creatures.
The great polar pack was pressing rapidly toward the island. Unless the
ships escaped, it seemed likely they would be securely hemmed in before
night. In this event, if they escaped wreck by ice pressure they faced
the prospect of lying still in an ice bed until the pack broke up in the
spring.
[Illustration: A Close Call Off Herald Island]
All day long the frightened ships scurried up and down the ice barrier
without finding an opening. They ran to the westward. There was no escape
there. They flew back to the east. An ice wall confronted them. The case
seemed hopeless. The panic of the captains became more and more evident.
If a ship hurried off in any direction, the other ships flocked after
her like so many scared sheep. Morning and afternoon passed in this wild
search for an outlet. Night was coming on.
A bark squared her yards and shot away to the southeast. It was the _Sea
Breeze_. When the others expected her to tack, she did no such thing, but
kept going straight ahead. On she went alone, far from the fleet. It was
exciting to watch that single ship flying eastward. What could it mean?
Had she found an opening? The other ships turned their prows after her,
one by one. A long line of vessels soon was careering in the wake of the
_Sea Breeze_. She had dwindled to a little ship in the far distance when
at last we saw her break out the American colors at her mizzen peak. Every
man aboard the brig gave a cheer. Cheers from the other ships came across
the water. It meant that the _Sea Breeze_ was clear.
She had found a lead that suddenly had opened through the eastern ice
strip, as leads will open in drifting floes. The lead was not entirely
clear. A narrow strip of ice lay across it. The _Sea Breeze_ butted
through this strip and sailed on to freedom. The other vessels followed.
Our brig was the tenth ship to pass through. As we negotiated the narrow
passage, the ice was so close on both sides we could have leaped upon it
from the bulwarks. It was with a joyous sense of escape that we cleared
the pack and swung once more on the open sea. Soon after the last ship of
the fleet had bumped her way to safety the ice closed solidly behind.