CHAPTER II

THE MEN OF THE "ALEXANDER"

The brig _Alexander_ was a staunch, sea-worthy little vessel. She had no

fine lines; there was nothing about her to please a yachtsman's eye; but

she was far from being a tub as whaling ships are often pictured. She was

built at New Bedford especially for Arctic whaling. Her hull was of sturdy

oak, reinforced at the bows to enable her to buck her way through ice.

Though she was called a brig, she was really a brigantine, rigged with

square sails on her fore-mast and with fore-and-aft sails on her main.

She was of only 128 tons but quite lofty, her royal yard being eighty

feet above the deck. On her fore-mast she carried a fore-sail, a single

topsail, a fore-top-gallant sail, and a royal; on her main-mast, a big

mainsail with a gaff-topsail above it. Three whale boats--starboard,

larboard, and waist boats--hung at her davits. Amidships stood the brick

try-works equipped with furnaces and cauldrons for rendering blubber into

oil.

As soon as I arrived on board I was taken in charge by the ship keeper and

conducted to the forecastle. It was a dark, malodorous, triangular hole

below the deck in the bows. At the foot of the ladder-like stairs, leading

down through the scuttle, I stepped on something soft and yielding. Was

it possible, I wondered in an instant's flash of surprise, that the

forecastle was laid with a velvet carpet? No, it was not. It was only

a Kanaka sailor lying on the floor dead drunk. The bunks were ranged

round the walls in a double tier. I selected one for myself, arranged my

mattress and blankets, and threw my bag inside. I was glad to get back to

fresh air on deck as quickly as possible.

Members of the crew kept coming aboard in charge of runners and boarding

bosses. They were a hard looking lot; several were staggering drunk,

and most of them were tipsy. All had bottles and demijohns of whiskey.

Everybody was full of bad liquor and high spirits that first night on the

brig. A company of jolly sea rovers were we, and we joked and laughed

and roared out songs like so many pirates about to cruise for treasure

galleons on the Spanish Main. Somehow next morning the rose color had

faded out of the prospect and there were many aching heads aboard.

On the morning of the second day, the officers came out to the vessel.

A tug puffed alongside and made fast to us with a cable. The anchor was

heaved up and, with the tug towing us, we headed for the Golden Gate.

Outside the harbor heads, the tug cast loose and put back into the bay in

a cloud of smoke. The brig was left swinging on the long swells of the

Pacific.

The captain stopped pacing up and down the quarter-deck and said something

to the mate. His words seemed like a match to powder. Immediately the

mate began roaring out orders. Boat-steerers bounded forward, shouting

out the orders in turn. The old sailors sang them out in repetition. Men

sprang aloft. Loosened sails were soon rolling down and fluttering from

every spar. The sailors began pulling on halyards and yo-hoing on sheets.

Throughout the work of setting sail, the green hands were "at sea" in a

double sense. The bustle and apparent confusion of the scene seemed to

savor of bedlam broke loose. The orders were Greek to them. They stood

about, bewildered and helpless. Whenever they tried to help the sailors

they invariably snarled things up and were roundly abused for their pains.

One might fancy they could at least have helped pull on a rope. They

couldn't even do that. Pulling on a rope, sailor-fashion, is in itself an

art.

Finally all the sails were sheeted home. Ropes were coiled up and hung

neatly on belaying pins. A fresh breeze set all the snowy canvas drawing

and the brig, all snug and shipshape, went careering southward.

At the outset of the voyage, the crew consisted of twenty-four men.

Fourteen men were in the forecastle. The after-crew comprised the captain,

mate, second mate, third mate, two boat-steerers, steward, cooper, cook,

and cabin boy. Captain Shorey was not aboard. He was to join the vessel at

Honolulu. Mr. Winchester, the mate, took the brig to the Hawaiian Islands

as captain. This necessitated a graduated rise in authority all along the

line. Mr. Landers, who had shipped as second mate, became mate; Gabriel,

the regular third mate, became second mate; and Mendez, a boatsteerer, was

advanced to the position of third mate.

Captain Winchester was a tall, spare, vigorous man with a nose like Julius

Caesar's and a cavernous bass voice that boomed like a sunset gun. He

was a man of some education, which is a rarity among officers of whale

ships, and was a typical New England Yankee. He had run away to sea as

a boy and had been engaged in the whaling trade for twenty years. For

thirteen years, he had been sailing to the Arctic Ocean as master and

mate of vessels, and was ingrained with the autocratic traditions of the

quarter-deck. Though every inch a sea dog of the hard, old-fashioned

school, he had his kindly human side, as I learned later. He was by far

the best whaleman aboard the brig; as skillful and daring as any that ever

laid a boat on a whale's back; a fine, bold, hardy type of seaman and an

honor to the best traditions of the sea. He lost his life--poor fellow--in

a whaling adventure in the Arctic Ocean on his next voyage.

Mr. Landers, the mate, was verging on sixty; his beard was grizzled, but

there wasn't a streak of gray in his coal-black hair. He was stout and

heavy-limbed and must have been remarkably strong in his youth. He was a

Cape Codder and talked with a quaint, nasal, Yankee drawl. He had been

to sea all his life and was a whaleman of thirty years' experience. In

all these years, he had been ashore very little--only a few weeks between

his year-long voyages, during which time, it was said, he kept up his

preference for liquids, exchanging blue water for red liquor. He was a

picturesque old fellow, and was so accustomed to the swinging deck of a

ship under him that standing or sitting, in perfectly still weather or

with the vessel lying motionless at anchor, he swayed his body from side

to side heavily as if in answer to the rise and fall of waves. He was a

silent, easy-going man, with a fund of dry humor and hard common sense. He

never did any more work than he had to, and before the voyage ended, he

was suspected by the officers of being a malingerer. All the sailors liked

him.

Gabriel, the second mate, was a negro from the Cape Verde islands. His

native language was Portuguese and he talked funny, broken English. He

was about forty-five years old, and though he was almost as dark-skinned

as any Ethiopian, he had hair and a full beard as finely spun and free

from kinkiness as a Caucasian's. The sailors used to say that Gabriel was

a white man born black by accident. He was a kindly, cheerful soul with

shrewd native wit. He was a whaleman of life-long experience.

Mendez, the third mate, and Long John, one of the boatsteerers, were also

Cape Verde islanders. Long John was a giant, standing six feet, four

inches; an ungainly, powerful fellow, with a black face as big as a ham

and not much more expressive. He had the reputation of being one of the

most expert harpooners of the Arctic Ocean whaling fleet.

Little Johnny, the other boatsteerer, was a mulatto from the Barbadoes,

English islands of the West Indies. He was a strapping, intelligent

young man, brimming over with vitality and high spirits and with all a

plantation darky's love of fun. His eyes were bright and his cheeks ruddy

with perfect health; he loved dress and gay colors and was quite the dandy

of the crew.

Five of the men of the forecastle were deep-water sailors. Of these one

was an American, one a German, one a Norwegian, and two Swedes. They

followed the sea for a living and had been bunkoed by their boarding

bosses into believing they would make large sums of money whaling.

They had been taken in by a confidence game as artfully as the man who

loses his money at the immemorial trick of three shells and a pea. When

they learned they would get only a dollar at the end of the voyage and

contemplated the loss of an entire working year, they were full of

resentment and righteous, though futile, anger.

Taylor, the American, became the acknowledged leader of the forecastle. He

quickly established himself in this position, not only by his skill and

long experience as a seaman, but by his aggressiveness, his domineering

character, and his physical ability to deal with men and situations.

He was a bold, iron-fisted fellow to whom the green hands looked for

instruction and advice, whom several secretly feared, and for whom all had

a wholesome respect.

Nels Nelson, a red-haired, red-bearded old Swede, was the best sailor

aboard. He had had a thousand adventures on all the seas of all the

world. He had been around Cape Horn seven times--a sailor is not rated

as a really-truly sailor until he has made a passage around that stormy

promontory--and he had rounded the Cape of Good Hope so many times he had

lost the count. He had ridden out a typhoon on the coast of Japan and had

been driven ashore by a hurricane in the West Indies. He had sailed on an

expedition to Cocos Island, that realm of mystery and romance, to try to

lift pirate treasure in doubloons, plate, and pieces-of-eight, supposed

to have been buried there by "Bugs" Thompson and Benito Bonito, those

one-time terrors of the Spanish Main. He had been cast away in the South

Seas in an open boat with three companions, and had eaten the flesh of the

man whose fate had been sealed by the casting of lots. He was some man,

was Nelson. I sometimes vaguely suspected he was some liar, too, but I

don't know. I think most of his stories were true.

He could do deftly everything intricate and subtle in sailorcraft from

tying the most wonderful knots to splicing wire. None of the officers

could teach old Nelson anything about fancy sailorizing and they knew it.

Whenever they wanted an unusual or particularly difficult piece of work

done they called on him, and he always did it in the best seamanly fashion.

Richard, the German, was a sturdy, manly young chap who had served in the

German navy. He was well educated and a smart seaman. Ole Oleson, the

Norwegian, was just out of his teens but a fine sailor. Peter Swenson,

a Swede, was a chubby, rosy boy of sixteen, an ignorant, reckless,

devil-may-care lad, who was looked upon as the baby of the forecastle and

humored and spoiled accordingly.

Among the six white green hands, there was a "mule skinner" from western

railway construction camps; a cowboy who believed himself fitted for

the sea after years of experience on the "hurricane deck" of a bucking

broncho; a country boy straight from the plow and with "farmer" stamped

all over him in letters of light; a man suspected of having had trouble

with the police; another who, in lazy night watches, spun frank yarns

of burglaries; and "Slim," an Irishman who said he had served with the

Royal Life Guards in the English army. There was one old whaler. He was a

shiftless, loquacious product of city slums. This was his seventh whaling

voyage--which would seem sufficient comment on his character.

"It beats hoboing," he said. And as his life's ambition seemed centered on

three meals a day and a bunk to sleep in, perhaps it did.

Two Kanakas completed the forecastle crew. These and the cabin boy, who

was also a Kanaka, talked fair English, but among themselves they always

spoke their native language. I had heard much of the liquid beauty of the

Kanaka tongue. It was a surprise to find it the most unmusical and harshly

guttural language I ever heard. It comes from the mouth in a series of

explosive grunts and gibberings. The listener is distinctly and painfully

impressed with the idea that if the nitroglycerine words were retained in

the system, they would prove dangerous to health and is fearful lest they

choke the spluttering Kanaka to death before he succeeds in biting them

off and flinging them into the atmosphere.

A Year with a Whaler · 第 2 / 23 章