CHAPTER XX.

A Crimean acquaintance--Personal abuse of myself--Close

firing--A reconnaissance--Major-General Bell--The Prince de

Joinville and his nephews--American estimate of Louis Napoleon

--Arrest of members of the Maryland Legislature--Life at

Washington--War cries--News from the Far West--Journey to the

Western States--Along the Susquehannah and Juniata--Chicago--

Sport in the prairie--Arrested for shooting on Sunday--The

town of Dwight--Return to Washington--Mr. Seward and myself.

_September 11th._--A soft-voiced, round-faced, rather good-looking

young man, with downy moustache, came to my room, and introduced

himself this morning as Mr. H. H. Scott, formerly of Her Majesty’s

57th Regiment. “Don’t you remember me? I often met you at Cathcart’s

Hill. I had a big dog, if you remember, which used to be about the

store belonging to our camp.” And so he rattled on, talking of old

Street and young Jones with immense volubility, and telling me how

he had gone out to India with his regiment, had married, lost his

wife, and was now travelling for the benefit of his health and to see

the country. All the time I was trying to remember his face, but in

vain. At last came the purport of his visit. He had been taken ill at

Baltimore, and was obliged to stop at an hotel, which had cost him

more than he had anticipated; he had just received a letter from his

father, which required his immediate return, and he had telegraphed

to New York to secure his place in the next steamer. Meantime, he was

out of money, and required a small loan to enable him to go back and

prepare for his journey, and of course he would send me the money

the moment he arrived in New York. I wrote a cheque for the amount

he named, with which Lieutenant or Captain Scott departed; and my

suspicions were rather aroused by seeing him beckon a remarkably

ill-favoured person at the other side of the way, who crossed over

and inspected the little slip of paper held out for his approbation,

and then, taking his friend under the arm, walked off rapidly towards

the bank.

The papers still continue to abuse me _faute de mieux_; there are

essays written about me; I am threatened with several farces; I have

been lectured upon at Willard’s by a professor of rhetoric; and I am

a stock subject with the leaden penny funny journals, for articles

and caricatures. Yesterday I was abused on the ground that I spoke

badly of those who treated me hospitably. The man who wrote the

words knew they were false, because I have been most careful in my

correspondence to avoid anything of the kind. A favourite accusation,

indeed, which Americans make against foreigners is, “that they have

abused our hospitality,” which oftentimes consists in permitting them

to live in the country at all at their own expense, paying their way

at hotels and elsewhere, without the smallest suspicion that they

were receiving any hospitality whatever.

To-day, for instance, there comes a lively corporal of artillery,

John Robinson, who quotes Sismondi, Guizot, and others, to prove that

I am the worst man in the world; but his fiercest invectives are

directed against me on the ground that I speak well of those people

who give me dinners; the fact being, since I came to America, that I

have given at least as many dinners to Americans as I have received

from them.

Just as I was sitting down to my desk for the remainder of the day,

a sound caught my ear which, repeated again and again, could not

be mistaken by accustomed organs, and placing my face close to the

windows, I perceived the glass vibrate to the distant discharge of

cannon, which, evidently, did not proceed from a review or a salute.

Unhappy man that I am! here is Walker lame, and my other horse

carried off by the West-country captain. However, the sounds were

so close that in a few moments I was driving off towards the Chain

Bridge, taking the upper road, as that by the canal has become a sea

of mud filled with deep holes.

In the windows, on the house-tops, even to the ridges partially

overlooking Virginia, people were standing in high excitement,

watching the faint puffs of smoke which rose at intervals above the

tree-tops, and at every report a murmur--exclamations of “There,

do you hear that?”--ran through the crowd. The driver, as excited

as any one else, urged his horses at full speed, and we arrived at

the Chain Bridge just as General M‘Call--a white haired, rather

military-looking old man--appeared at the head of his column,

hurrying down to the Chain Bridge from the Maryland side, to

re-inforce Smith, who was said to be heavily engaged with the enemy.

But by this time the firing had ceased, and just as the artillery

of the General’s column commenced defiling through the mud, into

which the guns sank to the naves of the wheels, the head of another

column appeared, entering the bridge from the Virginia side with

loud cheers, which were taken up again and again. The carriage was

halted to allow the 2nd Wisconsin to pass; and a more broken-down,

white-faced, sick, and weakly set of poor wretches I never beheld.

The heavy rains had washed the very life out of them; their clothing

was in rags, their shoes were broken, and multitudes were foot-sore.

They cheered, nevertheless, or whooped, and there was a tremendous

clatter of tongues in the ranks concerning their victory; but, as the

men’s faces and hands were not blackened by powder, they could have

seen little of the engagement. Captain Poe came along with dispatches

for General M‘Clellan, and gave me a correct account of the affair.

All this noise and firing and excitement, I found, simply arose out

of a reconnaissance made towards Lewinsville, by Smith and a part

of his brigade, to beat up the enemy’s position, and enable the

topographical engineers to procure some information respecting the

country. The Confederates worked down upon their left flank with

artillery, which they got into position at an easy range without

being observed, intending, no doubt, to cut off their retreat

and capture or destroy the whole force; but, fortunately for the

reconnoitring party, the impatience of their enemies led them to open

fire too soon. The Federals got their guns into position also, and

covered their retreat, whilst reinforcements poured out of camp to

their assistance, “and I doubt not,” said Poe, “but that they will

have an encounter of a tremendous scalping match in all the papers

to-morrow, although we have only six or seven men killed, and twelve

wounded.” As we approached Washington the citizens, as they are

called, were waving Federal banners out of the windows and rejoicing

in a great victory; at least, the inhabitants of the inferior sort of

houses. Respectability in Washington means Secession.

Mr. Monson told me that my distressed young British subject, Captain

Scott, had called on him at the Legation early this morning for the

little pecuniary help which had been, I fear, wisely refused there,

and which was granted by me. The States have become, indeed, more

than ever the _cloacina gentium_, and Great Britain contributes its

full quota to the stream.

Thus time passes away in expectation of some onward movement, or

desperate attack, or important strategical movements; and night comes

to reassemble a few friends, Americans and English, at my rooms

or elsewhere, to talk over the disappointed hopes of the day, to

speculate on the future, to chide each dull delay, and to part with a

hope that to-morrow would be more lively than to-day. Major-General

Bell, who commanded the Royals in the Crimea, and who has passed some

half century in active service, turned up in Washington, and has been

courteously received by the American authorities. He joined to-night

one of our small reunions, and was infinitely puzzled to detect the

lines which separated one man’s country and opinions from those of

the other.

_September 11th._--Captain Johnson, Queen’s messenger, started with

despatches for England from the Legation to-day, to the regret of

our little party. I observe by the papers certain wiseacres in

Philadelphia have got up a petition against me to Mr. Seward, on

the ground that I have been guilty of treasonable practices and

misrepresentations in my letter dated August 10th. There is also

to be a lecture on the 17th at Willard’s, by the Professor of

Rhetoric, to a volunteer regiment, which the President is invited to

attend--the subject being myself.

There is an absolute nullity of events, out of which the New York

papers endeavour, in vain, to extract a _caput mortuum_ of sensation

headings. The Prince of Joinville and his two nephews, the Count of

Paris and the Duke of Chartres, have been here for some days, and

have been received with marked attention by the President, Cabinet,

politicians and military. The Prince has come with the intention of

placing his son at the United States Naval Academy, and his nephews

with the head-quarters of the Federal army. The _empressement_

exhibited at the White House towards the French princes is attributed

by ill-natured rumours and persons to a little pique on the part

of Mrs. Lincoln, because the Princess Clothilde did not receive

her at New York, but considerable doubts are entertained of the

Emperor’s “loyalty” towards the Union. Under the wild extravagance

of professions of attachment to France are hidden suspicions

that Louis Napoleon may be capable of treasonable practices and

misrepresentations, which, in time, may lead the Philadelphians to

get up a petition against M. Mercier.

The news that twenty-two members of the Maryland Legislature have

been seized by the Federal authorities has not produced the smallest

effect here: so easily do men in the midst of political troubles

bend to arbitrary power, and so rapidly do all guarantees disappear

in a revolution. I was speaking to one of General M‘Clellan’s

aides-de-camp this evening respecting these things, when he

said--“If I thought he would use his power a day longer than was

necessary, I would resign this moment. I believe him incapable of any

selfish or unconstitutional views, or unlawful ambition, and you will

see that he will not disappoint our expectations.”

It is now quite plain M‘Clellan has no intention of making a general

defensive movement against Richmond. He is aware his army is not

equal to the task--commissariat deficient, artillery wanting, no

cavalry; above all, ill-officered, incoherent battalions. He hopes,

no doubt, by constant reviewing and inspection, and by weeding out

the preposterous fellows who render epaulettes ridiculous, to create

an infantry which shall be able for a short campaign in the fine

autumn weather; but I am quite satisfied he does not intend to move

now, and possibly will not do so till next year. I have arranged

therefore to pay a short visit to the West, penetrating as far as I

can, without leaving telegraphs and railways behind, so that if an

advance takes place, I shall be back in time at Washington to assist

at the earliest battle. These Federal armies do not move like the

corps of the French republic, or Crawford’s Light Division.

In truth, Washington life is becoming exceedingly monotonous and

uninteresting. The pleasant little evening parties or tertulias which

once relieved the dulness of this dullest of capitals, take place no

longer. Very wrong indeed would it be that rejoicings and festivities

should occur in the capital of a country menaced with destruction,

where many anxious hearts are grieving over the lost, or tortured

with fears for the living.

But for the hospitality of Lord Lyons to the English residents, the

place would be nearly insufferable, for at his house one met other

friendly ministers who extended the circle of invitations, and two

or three American families completed the list which one could reckon

on his fingers. Then at night, there were assemblages of the same

men, who uttered the same opinions, told the same stories, sang the

same songs, varied seldom by strange faces or novel accomplishments,

but always friendly and social enough--not conducive perhaps to

very early rising, but innocent of gambling, or other excess. A

flask of Bordeaux, a wicker-covered demi-john of Bourbon, a jug

of iced water and a bundle of cigars, with the latest arrival of

newspapers, furnished the _matériel_ of these small symposiums, in

which Americans and Englishmen and a few of the members of foreign

Legations, mingled in a friendly cosmopolitan manner. Now and then a

star of greater magnitude came down upon us: a senator or an “earnest

man,” or a “live man,” or a constitutional lawyer, or a remarkable

statesman, coruscated, and rushing off into the outer world left

us befogged, with our glimmering lights half extinguished with

tobacco-smoke.

Out of doors excessive heat alternating with thunder-storms and

tropical showers--dust beaten into mud, or mud sublimated into

dust--eternal reviews, each like the other--visits to camp, where we

saw the same men and heard the same stories of perpetual abortive

skirmishes--rides confined to the same roads and paths by lines of

sentries, offered no greater attraction than the city, where one’s

bones were racked with fever and ague, and where every evening the

pestilential vapours of the Potomac rose higher and spread further.

No wonder that I was glad to get away to the Far West, particularly

as I entertained hopes of witnessing some of the operations down the

Mississippi, before I was summoned back to Washington, by the news

that the grand army had actually broken up camp, and was about once

more to march against Richmond.

_September 12th._--The day passed quietly, in spite of rumours of

another battle; the band played in the President’s garden, and

citizens and citizenesses strolled about the grounds as if Secession

had been annihilated. The President made a fitful appearance, in a

grey shooting suit, with a number of despatches in his hand, and

walked off towards the State Department quite unnoticed by the

crowd. I am sure not half a dozen persons saluted him--not one of

the men I saw even touched his hat. General Bell went round the

works with M‘Clellan, and expressed his opinion that it would be

impossible to fight a great battle in the country which lay between

the two armies--in fact, as he said, “a general could no more handle

his troops among the woods, than he could regulate the movements

of rabbits in a cover. You ought just to make a proposition to

Beauregard to come out on some plain and fight the battle fairly out

where you can see each other.”

_September 16th._--It is most agreeable to be removed from all the

circumstance without any of the pomp and glory of war. Although there

is a tendency in the North, and, for aught I know, in the South, to

consider the contest in the same light as one with a foreign enemy,

the very battle-cries on both sides indicate a civil war. “The Union

for ever”--“States rights”--and “Down with the Abolitionists,”

cannot be considered national. M‘Clellan takes no note of time even

by its loss, which is all the more strange because he sets great

store upon it in his report on the conduct of the war in the Crimea.

However, he knows an army cannot be made in two months, and that

the larger it is, the more time there is required to harmonize its

components. The news from the Far West indicated a probability of

some important operations taking place, although my first love--the

army of the Potomac--must be returned to. Any way there was the

great Western Prairie to be seen, and the people who have been

pouring from their plains so many thousands upon the Southern States

to assert the liberties of those coloured races whom they will not

permit to cross their borders as freemen. Mr. Lincoln, Mr. Blair,

and other Abolitionists, are actuated by similar sentiments, and

seek to emancipate the slave, and remove from him the protection

of his master, in order that they may drive him from the continent

altogether, or force him to seek refuge in emigration.

On the 18th of September, I left Baltimore in company with

Major-General Bell, C.B., and Mr. Lamy, who was well acquainted with

the Western States: stopping one night at Altoona, in order that we

might cross by daylight the fine passes of the Alleganies, which are

traversed by bold gradients, and remarkable cuttings, second only in

difficulty and extent to those of the railroad across the Sömmering.

So far as my observation extends, no route in the United States can

give a stranger a better notion of the variety of scenery and of

resources, the vast extent of territory, the difference in races, the

prosperity of the present, and the probable greatness of the future,

than the line from Baltimore by Harrisburg and Pittsburg to Chicago,

traversing the great States of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana. Plain

and mountain, hill and valley, river and meadow, forest and rock,

wild tracts through which the Indian roamed but a few years ago,

lands covered with the richest crops; rugged passes, which Salvator

would have peopled with shadowy groups of bandits; gentle sylvan

glades, such as Gainsborough would have covered with waving corn;

the hum of mills, the silence of the desert and waste, sea-like

lakes whitened by innumerable sails, mighty rivers carving their way

through continents, sparkling rivulets that lose their lives amongst

giant wheels: seams and lodes of coal, iron, and mineral wealth,

cropping out of desolate mountain sides; busy, restless manufacturers

and traders alternating with stolid rustics, hedges clustering with

grapes, mountains whitening with snow; and beyond, the great Prairie

stretching away to the backbone of inhospitable rock, which, rising

from the foundations of the world, bar the access of the white man

and civilisation to the bleak inhospitable regions beyond, which both

are fain as yet to leave to the savage and wild beast.

Travelling along the banks of the Susquehannah, the visitor, however,

is neither permitted to admire the works of nature in silence, or

to express his admiration of the energy of man in his own way. The

tyranny of public opinion is upon him. He must admit that he never

saw anything so wonderful in his life; that there is nothing so

beautiful anywhere else; no fields so green, no rivers so wide and

deep, no bridges so lofty and long; and at last he is inclined to

shut himself up, either in absolute grumpy negation, or to indulge

in hopeless controversy. An American gentleman is as little likely

as any other well-bred man to force the opinions or interrupt the

reveries of a stranger; but if third-class Esquimaux are allowed to

travel in first-class carriages, the hospitable creatures will be

quite likely to insist on your swallowing train oil, eating blubber,

or admiring snow drifts, as the finest things in the world. It is

infinitely to the credit of the American people that actual offence

is so seldom given and is still more rarely intended--always save and

except in the one particular, of chewing tobacco. Having seen most

things that can irritate one’s stomach, and being in company with

an old soldier, I little expected that any excess of the sort could

produce disagreeable effects; but on returning from this excursion,

Mr. Lamy and myself were fairly driven out of a carriage, on the

Pittsburg line, in utter loathing and disgust, by the condition

of the floor. The conductor, passing through, said, “You must not

stand out there, it is against the rules; you can go in and smoke,”

pointing to the carriage. “In there!” exclaimed my friend, “why, it

is too filthy to put a wild beast into.” The conductor looked in for

a moment, nodded his head, and said, “Well, I concede it is right

bad; the citizens _are_ going it pretty strong,” and so left us.

The scenery along the Juniata is still more picturesque than that of

the valley of the Susquehannah. The borders of the route across the

Alleganies have been described by many a writer; but notwithstanding

the good fortune which favoured us, and swept away the dense veil

of vapours on the lower ranges of the hills, the landscape scarcely

produced the effect of scenery on a less extended scale, just as

the scenery of the Himalayas is not so striking as that of the Alps,

because it is on too vast a scale to be readily grasped.

Pittsburg, where we halted next night, on the Ohio, is certainly,

with the exception of Birmingham, the most intensely sooty, busy,

squalid, foul-housed, and vile-suburbed city I have ever seen. Under

its perpetual canopy of smoke, pierced by a forest of blackened

chimneys, the ill-paved streets, swarm with a streaky population

whose white faces are smutched with soot streaks--the noise of

vans and drays which shake the houses as they pass, the turbulent

life in the thoroughfares, the wretched brick tenements,--built in

waste places on squalid mounds, surrounded by heaps of slag and

broken brick--all these gave the stranger the idea of some vast

manufacturing city of the Inferno; and yet a few miles beyond, the

country is studded with beautiful villas, and the great river,

bearing innumerable barges and steamers on its broad bosom, rolls its

turbid waters between banks rich with cultivated crops.

The policeman at Pittsburg station--a burly Englishman--told me that

the war had been of the greatest service to the city. He spoke not

only from a policeman’s point of view, when he said that all the

rowdies, Irish, Germans, and others had gone off to the war, but from

the manufacturing stand-point, as he added that wages were high, and

that the orders from contractors were keeping all the manufacturers

going. “It is wonderful,” said he, “what a number of the citizens

come back from the South, by rail, in these new metallic coffins.”

A long, long day, traversing the State of Indiana by the Fort Wayne

route, followed by a longer night, just sufficed to carry us to

Chicago. The railway passes through a most uninteresting country,

which in part is scarcely rescued from a state of nature by the hand

of man; but it is wonderful to see so much done, when one hears that

the Miami Indians and other tribes were driven out, or, as the phrase

is, “removed,” only twenty years ago--“conveyed, the wise called

it”--to the reserves.

From Chicago, where we descended at a hotel which fairly deserves

to be styled magnificent, for comfort and completeness, Mr. Lamy

and myself proceeded to Racine, on the shores of Lake Michigan,

and thence took the rail for Freeport, where I remained for some

days, going out in the surrounding prairie to shoot in the morning,

and returning at nightfall. The prairie chickens were rather wild.

The delight of these days, notwithstanding bad sport, cannot be

described, nor was it the least ingredient in it to mix with the

fresh and vigorous race who are raising up cities on these fertile

wastes. Fortunately for the patience of my readers, perhaps, I did

not fill my diary with the records of each day’s events, or of the

contents of our bags; and the note-book in which I jotted down some

little matters which struck me to be of interest has been mislaid;

but in my letters to England I gave a description of the general

aspect of the country, and of the feelings of the people, and

arrived at the conclusion that the tax-gatherer will have little

chance of returning with full note-books from his tour in these

districts. The dogs which were lent to us were generally abominable;

but every evening we returned in company with great leather-greaved

and jerkined-men, hung round with belts and hooks, from which were

suspended strings of defunct prairie chickens. The farmers were

hospitable, but were suffering from a morbid longing for a failure of

crops in Europe, in order to give some value to their corn and wheat,

which literally cumbered the earth.

Freeport! Who ever heard of it? And yet it has its newspapers,

more than I dare mention, and its big hotel lighted with gas, its

billiard-rooms and saloons, magazines, railway stations, and all the

proper paraphernalia of local self-government, with all their fierce

intrigues and giddy factions.

From Freeport our party returned to Chicago, taking leave of our

excellent friend and companion Mr. George Thompson, of Racine. The

authorities of the Central Illinois Railway, to whose courtesy and

consideration I was infinitely indebted, placed at our disposal a

magnificent sleeping carriage; and on the morning after our arrival,

having laid in a good stock of supplies, and engaged an excellent

sporting guide and dogs, we started, attached to the regular train

from Chicago, until the train stopped at a shunting place near the

station of Dwight, in the very centre of the prairie. We reached

our halting-place, were detached, and were shot up a siding in the

solitude, with no habitation in view, except the wood shanty, in

which lived the family of the Irish overseer of this portion of the

road--a man happy in the possession of a piece of gold which he

received from the Prince of Wales, and for which, he declared, he

would not take the amount of the National Debt.

The sleeping carriage proved most comfortable quarters. After

breakfast in the morning, Mr. Lamy, Col. Foster, Mr. ----, of the

Central Illinois rail, the keeper, and myself, descending the steps

of our moveable house, walked in a few strides to the shooting

grounds, which abounded with quail, but were not so well peopled by

the chickens. The quail were weak on the wing, owing to the lateness

of the season, and my companions grumbled at their hard luck, though

I was well content with fresh air, my small share of birds, and a

few American hares. Night and morning the train rushed by, and when

darkness settled down upon the prairie, our lamps were lighted,

dinner was served in the carriage, set forth with inimitable potatoes

cooked by the old Irishwoman. From the dinner-table it was but a step

to go to bed. When storm or rain rushed over the sea-like plain, I

remained in the carriage writing, and after a long spell of work, it

was inexpressibly pleasant to take a ramble through the flowering

grass and the sweet-scented broom, and to go beating through the

stunted under-cover, careless of rattlesnakes, whose tiny prattling

music I heard often enough without a sight of the tails that made it.

One rainy morning, the 29th September, I think, as the sun began to

break through drifting rain clouds, I saw my companions preparing

their guns, the sporting chaperon Walker filling the shot flasks, and

making all the usual arrangements for a day’s shooting. “You don’t

mean to say you are going out shooting on a Sunday!” I said. “What,

on the prairies!” exclaimed Colonel Foster. “Why, of course we are;

there’s nothing wrong in it here. What nobler temple can we find

to worship in than lies around us? It is the custom of the people

hereabouts to shoot on Sundays, and it is a work of necessity with

us; for our larder is very low.”

And so, after breakfast, we set out, but the rain came down so

densely that we were driven to the house of a farmer, and finally we

returned to our sleeping carriage for the day. I never fired a shot

nor put a gun to my shoulder, nor am I sure that any of my companions

killed a bird.

The rain fell with violence all day, and at night the gusts of wind

shook the carriage like a ship at sea. We were sitting at table after

dinner, when the door at the end of the carriage opened, and a man,

in a mackintosh dripping wet, advanced with unsteady steps along

the centre of the carriage, between the beds, and taking off his

hat, in the top of which he searched diligently, stood staring with

lack-lustre eyes from one to the other of the party, till Colonel

Foster exclaimed, “Well, sir, what do you want?”

“What do I want,” he replied, with a slight thickness of speech,

“which of you is the Honourable Lord William Russell, correspondent

of the London _Times_? That’s what I want.”

I certified to my identity; whereupon, drawing a piece of paper out

of his hat, he continued, “Then I arrest you, Honourable Lord William

Russell, in the name of the people of the Commonwealth of Illinois,”

and thereupon handed me a document, declaring that one, Morgan, of

Dwight, having come before him that day and sworn that I, with a

company of men and dogs, had unlawfully assembled, and by firing

shots, and by barking and noise, had disturbed the peace of the State

of Illinois, he, the subscriber or justice of the peace, as named and

described, commanded the constable Podgers, or whatever his name

was, to bring my body before him to answer to the charge.

Now this town of Dwight was a good many miles away, the road was

declared by those who knew it to be very bad, the night was pitch

dark, the rain falling in torrents, and as the constable, drawing

out of his hat paper after paper with the names of impossible

persons upon them, served subpœnas on all the rest of the party to

appear next morning, the anger of Colonel Foster could scarcely be

restrained, by kicks under the table and nods and becks and wreathed

smiles from the rest of the party. “This is infamous! It is a

political persecution!” he exclaimed, whilst the keeper joined in

chorus, declaring he never heard of such a proceeding before in all

his long experience of the prairie, and never knew there was such an

act in existence. The Irishmen in the hut added that the informer

himself generally went out shooting every Sunday. However, I could

not but regret I had given the fellow an opportunity of striking

at me, and though I was the only one of the party who raised an

objection to our going out at all, I was deservedly suffering for the

impropriety--to call it here by no harsher name.

The constable, a man of a liquid eye and a cheerful countenance,

paid particular attention meantime to a large bottle upon the

table, and as I professed my readiness to go the moment he had some

refreshment that very wet night, the stern severity becoming a

minister of justice, which marked his first utterances, was sensibly

mollified; and when Mr. ---- proposed that he should drive back with

him and see the prosecutor, he was good enough to accept my written

acknowledgment of the service of the writ, and promise to appear the

following morning, as an adequate discharge of his duty--combined

with the absorption of some Bourbon whisky--and so retired.

Mr. ---- returned late at night, and very angry. It appears that the

prosecutor--who is not a man of very good reputation, and whom his

neighbours were as much astonished to find the champion of religious

observances as they would have been if he was to come forward to

insist on the respect due to the seventh commandment--with the

insatiable passion for notoriety, which is one of the worst results

of American institutions, thought he would gain himself some little

reputation by causing annoyance to a man so unpopular as myself. He

and a companion having come from Dwight for the purpose, and hiding

in the neighbourhood, had, therefore, devoted their day to lying in

wait and watching our party; and as they were aware in the railway

carriage I was with Colonel Foster, they had no difficulty in finding

out the names of the rest of the party. The magistrate being his

relative, granted the warrant at once; and the prosecutor, who was in

waiting for the constable, was exceedingly disappointed when he found

that I had not been dragged through the rain.

Next morning, a special engine which had been ordered up by telegraph

appeared alongside the car; and a short run through a beautiful

country brought us to the prairie town of Dwight. The citizens were

astir--it was a great day--and as I walked with Colonel Forster, all

the good people seemed to be enjoying an unexampled treat in gazing

at the stupendous criminal. The court-house, or magistrate’s office,

was suitable to the republican simplicity of the people of Dwight;

for the chamber of justice was on the first floor of a house over a

store, and access was obtained to it by a ladder from the street to

a platform, at the top of which I was ushered into the presence of

the court--a plain white-washed room. I am not sure there was even

an engraving of George Washington on the walls. The magistrate in a

full suit of black, with his hat on, was seated at a small table;

behind him a few books, on plain deal shelves, provided his fund

of legal learning. The constable, with a severer visage than that

of last night, stood upon the right hand; three sides of the room

were surrounded by a wall of stout honest Dwightians, among whom

I produced a profound sensation, by the simple ceremony of taking

off my hat, which they no doubt considered a token of the degraded

nature of the Britisher, but which moved the magistrate to take off

his head-covering; whereupon some of the nearest removed theirs,

some putting them on again, and some remaining uncovered; and then

the informations were read, and on being asked what I had to say,

I merely bowed, and said I had no remarks to offer. But my friend,

Colonel Foster, who had been churning up his wrath and forensic lore

for some time, putting one hand under his coat tail, and elevating

the other in the air, with modulated cadences, poured out a fine

oratorical flow which completely astonished me, and whipped the

audience morally off their legs completely. In touching terms he

described the mission of an illustrious stranger, who had wandered

over thousands of miles of land and sea to gaze upon the beauties of

those prairies which the Great Maker of the Universe had expanded as

the banqueting tables for the famishing millions of pauperised and

despotic Europe. As the representative of an influence which the

people of the great State of Illinois should wish to see developed,

instead of contracted, honoured instead of being insulted, he had

come among them to admire the grandeur of nature, and to behold

with wonder the magnificent progress of human happiness and free

institutions. (Some thumping of sticks, and cries of “Bravo, that’s

so,” which warmed the Colonel into still higher flights). I began

to feel if he was as great in invective as he was in eulogy, it was

well he had not lived to throw a smooth pebble from his sling at

Warren Hastings. As great indeed! Why, when the Colonel had drawn

a beautiful picture of me examining coal deposits--investigating

strata--breathing autumnal airs, and culling flowers in unsuspecting

innocence, and then suddenly denounced the serpent who had dogged

my steps, in order to strike me down with a justice’s warrant, I

protest it is doubtful, if he did not reach to the most elevated

stage of vituperative oratory, the progression of which was marked

by increasing thumps of sticks, and louder murmurs of applause, to

the discomfiture of the wretched prosecutor. But the magistrate was

not a man of imagination; he felt he was but elective after all; and

so, with his eye fixed upon his book, he pronounced his decision,

which was that I be amerced in something more than half the maximum

fine fixed by the statute, some five-and-twenty shillings or so, the

greater part to be spent in the education of the people, by transfer

to the school fund of the State.

As I was handing the notes to the magistrate, several respectable men

coming forward exclaimed, “Pray oblige us, Mr. Russell, by letting us

pay the amount for you; this is a shameful proceeding.” But thanking

them heartily for their proffered kindness, I completed the little

pecuniary transaction and wished the magistrate good morning, with

the remark that I hoped the people of the State of Illinois would

always find such worthy defenders of the statutes as the prosecutor,

and never have offenders against their peace and morals more culpable

than myself. Having undergone a severe scolding from an old woman at

the top of the ladder, I walked to the train, followed by a number of

the audience, who repeatedly expressed their extreme regret at the

little persecution to which I had been subjected. The prosecutor had

already made arrangements to send the news over the whole breadth

of the Union, which was his only reward; as I must do the American

papers the justice to say that, with a few natural exceptions, those

which noticed the occurrence unequivocally condemned his conduct.

That evening, as we were planning an extension of our sporting tour,

the mail rattling by deposited our letters and papers, and we saw at

the top of many columns the startling words, “Grand Advance Of The

Union Army.” “M‘Clellan Marching On Richmond.” “Capture Of Munson’s

Hill.” “Retreat of the Enemy--30,000 men Seize Their Fortifications.”

Not a moment was to be lost; if I was too late, I never would

forgive myself. Our carriage was hooked on to the return train, and

at 8 o’clock p.m. I started on my return to Washington, by way of

Cleveland.

At half-past 3 on the 1st October the train reached Pittsburg, just

too late to catch the train for Baltimore; but I continued my journey

at night, arriving at Baltimore after noon, and reaching Washington

at 6 p.m. on the 2nd of October.

_October 3rd._--In Washington once more--all the world laughing

at the pump and the wooden guns at Munson’s Hill, but angry withal

because M‘Clellan should be so befooled as they considered it, by

the Confederates. The fact is M‘Clellan was not prepared to move,

and therefore not disposed to hazard a general engagement, which

he might have brought on had the enemy been in force; perhaps he

knew they were not, but found it convenient nevertheless to act as

though he believed they had established themselves strongly in his

front, as half the world will give him credit for knowing more than

the civilian strategists who have already got into disgrace for

urging M‘Dowell on to Richmond. The federal armies are not handled

easily. They are luxurious in the matter of baggage, and canteens,

and private stores; and this is just the sort of war in which the

general who moves lightly and rapidly, striking blows unexpectedly

and deranging communications, will obtain great results.

Although Beauregard’s name is constantly mentioned, I fancy that,

crafty and reticent as he is, the operations in front of us have

been directed by an officer of larger capacity. As yet M‘Clellan has

certainly done nothing in the field to show he is like Napoleon. The

value of his labours in camp has yet to be tested. I dined at the

Legation, and afterwards there was a meeting at my rooms, where I

heard of all that had passed during my absence.

_October 4th._--The new expedition, of which I have been hearing for

some time past, is about to sail to Port Royal, under the command

of General Burnside, in order to reduce the works erected at the

entrance of the Sound, to secure a base of operations against

Charleston, and to cut in upon the communication between that

place and Savannah. Alas, for poor Trescot! his plantations, his

secluded home! What will the good lady think of the Yankee invasion,

which surely must succeed, as the naval force will be overwhelming?

I visited the division of General Egbert Viele, encamped near

the Navy-yard, which is bound to Annapolis, as a part of General

Burnside’s expedition. When first I saw him, the general was an

emeritus captain, attached to the 7th New York Militia; now he is

a Brigadier-General, if not something more, commanding a corps of

nearly 5000 men, with pay and allowances to match. His good lady

wife, who accompanied him in the Mexican campaign,--whereof came

a book, lively and light, as a lady’s should be,--was about to

accompany her husband in his assault on the Carolinians, and prepared

for action, by opening a small broadside on my unhappy self, whom

she regarded as an enemy of our glorious Union; and therefore an

ally of the Evil Powers on both sides of the grave. The women, North

and South, are equally pitiless to their enemies; and it was but the

other day, a man with whom I am on very good terms in Washington,

made an apology for not asking me to his house, because his wife was

a strong Union woman.

A gentleman who had been dining with Mr. Seward to-night told me the

Minister had complained that I had not been near him for nearly two

months; the fact was, however, that I had called twice immediately

after the appearance in America of my letter dated July 22nd, and had

met Mr. Seward afterwards, when his manner was, or appeared to me to

be, cold and distant, and I had therefore abstained from intruding

myself upon his notice; nor did his answer to the Philadelphian

petition--in which Mr. Seward appeared to admit the allegations made

against me were true, and to consider I had violated the hospitality

accorded me--induce me to think that he did not entertain the opinion

which these journals which set themselves up to be his organs had so

repeatedly expressed.

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