CHAPTER XI.

Fortress Monroe--General Butler--Hospital accommodation--Wounded

soldiers--Aristocratic pedigrees--A great gun--Newport

News--Fraudulent contractors--General Butler--Artillery

practice--Contraband negroes--Confederate lines--Tombs of

American loyalists--Troops and contractors--Durevy’s New York

Zouaves--Military calculations--A voyage by steamer to Annapolis.

_July 14th._--At six o’clock this morning the steamer arrived at the

wharf under the walls of Fortress Monroe, which presented a very

different appearance from the quiet of its aspect when first I saw

it, some months ago. Camps spread around it, the parapets lined with

sentries, guns looking out towards the land, lighters and steamers

alongside the wharf, a strong guard at the end of the pier, passes

to be scrutinised and permits to be given. I landed with the members

of the Sanitary Commission, and repaired to a very large pile of

buildings, called “The Hygeia Hotel,” for once on a time Fortress

Monroe was looked upon as the resort of the sickly, who required

bracing air and an abundance of oysters; it is now occupied by the

wounded in the several actions and skirmishes which have taken place,

particularly at Bethel; and it is so densely crowded that we had

difficulty in procuring the use of some small dirty rooms to dress

in. As the business of the Commission was principally directed to

ascertain the state of the hospitals, they considered it necessary

in the first instance to visit General Butler, the commander of the

post, who has been recommending himself to the Federal Government by

his activity ever since he came down to Baltimore, and the whole body

marched to the fort, crossing the drawbridge after some parley with

the guard, and received permission, on the production of passes, to

enter the court.

The interior of the work covers a space of about seven or eight

acres, as far as I could judge, and is laid out with some degree

of taste; rows of fine trees border the walks through the grass

plots; the officers’ quarters, neat and snug, are surrounded with

little patches of flowers, and covered with creepers. All order and

neatness, however, were fast disappearing beneath the tramp of mailed

feet, for at least 1200 men had pitched their tents inside the place.

We sent in our names to the General, who lives in a detached house

close to the sea face of the fort, and sat down on a bench under

the shade of some trees, to avoid the excessive heat of the sun

until the commander of the place could receive the Commissioners. He

was evidently in no great hurry to do so. In about half an hour an

aide-de-camp came out to say that the General was getting up, and

that he would see us after breakfast. Some of the Commissioners, from

purely sanitary considerations, would have been much better pleased

to have seen him at breakfast, as they had only partaken of a very

light meal on board the steamer at five o’clock in the morning; but

we were interested meantime by the morning parade of a portion of

the garrison, consisting of 300 regulars, a Massachusetts’ volunteer

battalion, and the 2nd New York Regiment.

It was quite refreshing to the eye to see the cleanliness of the

regulars--their white gloves and belts, and polished buttons,

contrasted with the slovenly aspect of the volunteers; but, as far

as the material went, the volunteers had by far the best of the

comparison. The civilians who were with me did not pay much attention

to the regulars, and evidently preferred the volunteers, although

they could not be insensible to the magnificent drum-major who led

the band of the regulars. Presently General Butler came out of his

quarters, and walked down the lines, followed by a few officers. He

is a stout, middle-aged man, strongly built, with coarse limbs, his

features indicative of great shrewdness and craft, his forehead high,

the elevation being in some degree due perhaps to the want of hair;

with a strong obliquity of vision, which may perhaps have been caused

by an injury, as the eyelid hangs with a peculiar droop over the

organ.

The General, whose manner is quick, decided, and abrupt, but not at

all rude or unpleasant, at once acceded to the wishes of the Sanitary

Commissioners, and expressed his desire to make my stay at the

fort as agreeable and useful as he could. “You can first visit the

hospitals in company with these gentlemen, and then come over with

me to our camp, where I will show you everything that is to be seen.

I have ordered a steamer to be in readiness to take you to Newport

News.” He speaks rapidly, and either affects or possesses great

decision. The Commissioners accordingly proceeded to make the most

of their time in visiting the Hygeia Hotel, being accompanied by the

medical officers of the garrison.

The rooms, but a short time ago occupied by the fair ladies of

Virginia, when they came down to enjoy the sea breezes, were now

crowded with Federal soldiers, many of them suffering from the

loss of limb or serious wounds, others from the worst form of camp

disease. I enjoyed a small national triumph over Dr. Bellows, the

chief of the Commissioners, who is of the “sangre azul” of Yankeeism,

by which I mean that he is a believer, not in the perfectibility,

but in the absolute perfection, of New England nature, which is the

only human nature that is not utterly lost and abandoned--Old England

nature, perhaps, being the worst of all. We had been speaking to the

wounded men in several rooms, and found most of them either in the

listless condition consequent upon exhaustion, or with that anxious

air which is often observable on the faces of the wounded when

strangers approach. At last we came into a room in which two soldiers

were sitting up, the first we had seen, reading the newspapers. Dr.

Bellows asked where they came from; one was from Concord, the other

from Newhaven. “You see, Mr. Russell,” said Dr. Bellows, “how our

Yankee soldiers spend their time. I knew at once they were Americans

when I saw them reading newspapers.” One of them had his hand

shattered by a bullet, the other was suffering from a gun-shot wound

through the body. “Where were you hit?” I inquired of the first.

“Well,” he said, “I guess my rifle went off when I was cleaning it

in camp.” “Were you wounded at Bethel?” I asked of the second. “No,

sir,” he replied; “I got this wound from a comrade, who discharged

his piece by accident in one of the tents as I was standing

outside.” “So,” said I, to Dr. Bellows, “whilst the Britishers and

Germans are engaged with the enemy, you Americans employ your time

shooting each other!”

These men were true mercenaries, for they were fighting for money--I

mean the strangers. One poor fellow from Devonshire said, as he

pointed to his stump, “I wish I had lost it for the sake of the old

island, sir,” paraphrasing Sarsfield’s exclamation as he lay dying on

the field. The Americans were fighting for the combined excellences

and strength of the States of New England, and of the rest of the

Federal power over the Confederates, for they could not in their

heart of hearts believe the Old Union could be restored by force of

arms. Lovers may quarrel and may reunite, but if a blow is struck

there is no _redintegratio amoris_ possible again. The newspapers and

illustrated periodicals which they read were the pabulum that fed the

flames of patriotism incessantly. Such capacity for enormous lying,

both in creation and absorption, the world never heard. Sufficient

for the hour is the falsehood.

There were lady nurses in attendance on the patients; who

followed--let us believe, as I do, out of some higher motive than

the mere desire of human praise--the example of Miss Nightingale.

I loitered behind in the rooms, asking many questions respecting

the nationality of the men, in which the members of the Sanitary

Commission took no interest, and I was just turning into one near the

corner of the passage when I was stopped by a loud smack. A young

Scotchman was dividing his attention between a basin of soup and a

demure young lady from Philadelphia, who was feeding him with a

spoon, his only arm being engaged in holding her round the waist, in

order to prevent her being tired, I presume. Miss Rachel, or Deborah,

had a pair of very pretty blue eyes, but they flashed very angrily

from under her trim little cap at the unwitting intruder, and then

she said, in severest tones, “Will you take your medicine, or not?”

Sandy smiled, and pretended to be very penitent.

When we returned with the doctors from our inspection we walked round

the parapets of the fortress, why so called I know not, because it

is merely a fort. The guns and mortars are old-fashioned and heavy,

with the exception of some new-fashioned and very heavy Columbiads,

which are cast-iron 8-, 10-, and 12-inch guns, in which I have no

faith whatever. The armament is not sufficiently powerful to prevent

its interior being searched out by the long range fire of ships with

rifle guns, or mortar boats; but it would require closer and harder

work to breach the masses of brick and masonry which constitute the

parapets and casemates. The guns, carriages, rammers, shot, were

dirty, rusty, and neglected; but General Butler told me he was busy

polishing up things about the fortress as fast as he could.

Whilst we were parading these hot walls in the sunshine, my

companions were discussing the question of ancestry. It appears your

New Englander is very proud of his English descent from good blood,

and it is one of their isms in the Yankee States that they are the

salt of the British people and the true aristocracy of blood and

family, whereas we in the isles retain but a paltry share of the

blue blood defiled by incessant infiltrations of the muddy fluid

of the outer world. This may be new to us Britishers, but is a Q.

E. D. If a gentleman left Europe 200 years ago, and settled with

his kin and kith, intermarrying his children with their equals,

and thus perpetuating an ancient family, it is evident he may be

regarded as the founder of a much more honourable dynasty than the

relative who remained behind him, and lost the old family place,

and sunk into obscurity. A singular illustration of the tendency to

make much of themselves may be found in the fact, that New England

swarms with genealogical societies and bodies of antiquaries, who

delight in reading papers about each other’s ancestors, and tracing

their descent from Norman or Saxon barons and earls. The Virginians

opposite, who are flouting us with their Confederate flag from

Sewall’s Point, are equally given to the “genus et proavos.”

At the end of our promenade round the ramparts, Lieutenant Butler,

the General’s nephew and aide-de-camp, came to tell us the boat was

ready, and we met His Excellency in the court-yard, whence we walked

down to the wharf. On our way, General Butler called my attention

to an enormous heap of hollow iron lying on the sand, which was the

Union gun that is intended to throw a shot of some 350 lbs. weight or

more, to astonish the Confederates at Sewall’s Point opposite, when

it is mounted. This gun, if I mistake not, was made after the designs

of Captain Rodman, of the United States artillery, who in a series

of remarkable papers, the publication of which has cost the country

a large sum of money, has given us the results of long-continued

investigations and experiments on the best method of cooling masses

of iron for ordnance purposes, and of making powder for heavy shot.

The piece must weigh about 20 tons, but a similar gun, mounted on an

artificial island called the Rip Raps, in the Channel opposite the

fortress, is said to be worked with facility. The Confederates have

raised some of the vessels sunk by the United States officers when

the Navy Yard at Gosport was destroyed, and as some of these are to

be converted into rams, the Federals are preparing their heaviest

ordnance, to try the effect of crushing weights at low velocities

against their sides, should they attempt to play any pranks among

the transport vessels. The General said: “It is not by these great

masses of iron this contest is to be decided: we must bring sharp

points of steel, directed by superior intelligence.” Hitherto General

Butler’s attempts at Big Bethel have not been crowned with success

in employing such means, but it must be admitted that, according

to his own statement, his lieutenants were guilty of carelessness

and neglect of ordinary military precautions in the conduct of the

expedition he ordered. The march of different columns of troops by

night concentrating on a given point is always liable to serious

interruptions, and frequently gives rise to hostile encounters

between friends, in more disciplined armies than the raw levies of

United States volunteers.

When the General, Commissioners, and Staff had embarked, the steamer

moved across the broad estuary to Newport News. Among our passengers

were several medical officers in attendance on the Sanitary

Commissioners, some belonging to the army, others who had volunteered

from civil life. Their discussion of professional questions and of

relative rank assumed such a personal character, that General Butler

had to interfere to quiet the disputants, but the exertion of

his authority was not altogether successful, and one of the angry

gentlemen said in my hearing, “I’m d--d if I submit to such treatment

if all the lawyers in Massachusetts with stars on their collars were

to order me to-morrow.”

On arriving at the low shore of Newport News we landed at a wooden

jetty, and proceeded to visit the camp of the Federals, which was

surrounded by a strong entrenchment, mounted with guns on the water

face; and on the angles inland, a broad tract of cultivated country,

bounded by a belt of trees, extended from the river away from the

encampment; but the Confederates are so close at hand that frequent

skirmishes have occurred between the foraging parties of the garrison

and the enemy, who have on more than one occasion pursued the

Federals to the very verge of the woods.

Whilst the Sanitary Commissioners were groaning over the heaps of

filth which abound in all camps where discipline is not most strictly

observed, I walked round amongst the tents, which, taken altogether,

were in good order. The day was excessively hot, and many of the

soldiers were laying down in the shade of arbours formed of branches

from the neighbouring pine wood, but most of them got up when they

heard the General was coming round. A sentry walked up and down at

the end of the street, and as the General came up to him he called

out “Halt.” The man stood still. “I just want to show you, sir, what

scoundrels our Government has to deal with. This man belongs to a

regiment which has had new clothing recently served out to it. Look

what it is made of.” So saying the General stuck his fore-finger into

the breast of the man’s coat, and with a rapid scratch of his nail

tore open the cloth as if it was of blotting paper. “Shoddy sir.

Nothing but shoddy. I wish I had these contractors in the trenches

here, and if hard work would not make honest men of them, they’d have

enough of it to be examples for the rest of their fellows.”

A vivacious prying man, this Butler, full of bustling life,

self-esteem, revelling in the exercise of power. In the course of

our rounds we were joined by Colonel Phelps, who was formerly in the

United States army, and saw service in Mexico, but retired because

he did not approve of the manner in which promotions were made, and

who only took command of a Massachusetts regiment because he believed

he might be instrumental in striking a shrewd blow or two in this

great battle of Armageddon--a tall, saturnine, gloomy, angry-eyed,

sallow man, soldier-like too, and one who places old John Brown

on a level with the great martyrs of the Christian world. Indeed

one, not so fierce as he, is blasphemous enough to place images of

our Saviour and the hero of Harper’s Ferry on the mantelpiece, as

the two greatest beings the world has ever seen. “Yes, I know them

well. I’ve seen them in the field. I’ve sat with them at meals. I’ve

travelled through their country. These Southern slaveholders are a

false, licentious, godless people. Either we who obey the laws and

fear God, or they who know no God except their own will and pleasure,

and know no law except their passions, must rule on this continent,

and I believe that Heaven will help its own in the conflict they

have provoked. I grant you they are brave enough, and desperate too,

but surely justice, truth, and religion, will strengthen a man’s

arm to strike down those who have only brute force and a bad cause

to support them.” But Colonel Phelps was not quite indifferent to

material aid, and he made a pressing appeal to General Butler to

send him some more guns and harness for the field-pieces he had in

position, because, said he, “in case of attack, please God I’ll

follow them up sharp, and cover these fields with their bones.” The

General had a difficulty about the harness, which made Colonel Phelps

very grim, but General Butler had reason in saying he could not make

harness, and so the Colonel must be content with the results of a

good rattling fire of round, shell, grape, and cannister, if the

Confederates are foolish enough to attack his batteries.

There was nothing to complain of in the camp, except the swarms

of flies, the very bad smells, and perhaps the shabby clothing of

the men. The tents were good enough. The rations were ample, but

nevertheless there was a want of order, discipline, and quiet in

the lines which did not augur well for the internal economy of

the regiments. When we returned to the river face, General Butler

ordered some practice to be made with a Sawyer rifle gun, which

appeared to be an ordinary cast-iron piece, bored with grooves, on

the shunt principle, the shot being covered with a composition of

a metallic amalgam like zinc and tin, and provided with flanges of

the same material to fit the grooves. The practice was irregular and

unsatisfactory. At an elevation of 24 degrees, the first shot struck

the water at a point about 2000 yards distant. The piece was then

further elevated, and the shot struck quite out of land, close to

the opposite bank, at a distance of nearly three miles. The third

shot rushed with a peculiar hurtling noise out of the piece, and

flew up in the air, falling with a splash into the water about 1500

yards away. The next shot may have gone half across the continent,

for assuredly it never struck the water, and most probably ploughed

its way into the soft ground at the other side of the river. The

shell practice was still worse, and on the whole I wish our enemies

may always fight us with Sawyer guns, particularly as the shells cost

between £6 and £7 a-piece.

From the fort the General proceeded to the house of one of the

officers, near the jetty, formerly the residence of a Virginian

farmer, who has now gone to Secessia, where we were most hospitably

treated at an excellent lunch, served by the slaves of the former

proprietor. Although we boast with some reason of the easy level

of our mess-rooms, the Americans certainly excel us in the art of

annihilating all military distinctions on such occasions as these;

and I am not sure the General would not have liked to place a young

Doctor in close arrest, who suddenly made a dash at the liver wing of

a fowl on which the General was bent with eye and fork, and carried

it off to his plate. But on the whole there was a good deal of

friendly feeling amongst all ranks of the volunteers, the regulars

being a little stiff and adherent to etiquette.

In the afternoon the boat returned to Fortress Monroe, and the

general invited me to dinner, where I had the pleasure of meeting

Mrs. Butler, his staff, and a couple of regimental officers from the

neighbouring camp. As it was still early, General Butler proposed a

ride to visit the interesting village of Hampton, which lies some

six or seven miles outside the fort, and forms his advance post. A

powerful charger, with a tremendous Mexican saddle, fine housings,

blue and gold embroidered saddle-cloth, was brought to the door for

your humble servant, and the General mounted another, which did equal

credit to his taste in horseflesh; but I own I felt rather uneasy on

seeing that he wore a pair of large brass spurs, strapped over white

jean brodequins. He took with him his aide-de-camp and a couple of

orderlies. In the precincts of the fort outside, a population of

contraband negroes has been collected, whom the General employs in

various works about the place, military and civil; but I failed to

ascertain that the original scheme of a debit and credit account

between the value of their labour and the cost of their maintenance

had been successfully carried out. The General was proud of them,

and they seemed proud of themselves, saluting him with a ludicrous

mixture of awe and familiarity as he rode past. “How do, Massa

Butler? How do, General?” accompanied by absurd bows and scrapes.

“Just to think,” said the General, “that every one of these fellows

represents some 1000 dollars at least out of the pockets of the

chivalry yonder.” “Nasty, idle, dirty beasts,” says one of the staff,

_sotto voce_; “I wish to Heaven they were all at the bottom of the

Chesapeake. The General insists on it that they do work, but they are

far more trouble than they are worth.”

The road towards Hampton traverses a sandy spit, which, however, is

more fertile than would be supposed from the soil under the horses’

hoofs, though it is not in the least degree interesting. A broad

creek or river interposed between us and the town, the bridge over

which had been destroyed. Workmen were busy repairing it, but all the

planks had not yet been laid down or nailed, and in some places the

open space between the upright rafters allowed us to see the dark

waters flowing beneath. The Aide said, “I don’t think, General, it is

safe to cross;” but his chief did not mind him until his horse very

nearly crashed through a plank, and only regained its footing with

unbroken legs by marvellous dexterity; whereupon we dismounted, and,

leaving the horses to be carried over in the ferry-boat, completed

the rest of the transit, not without difficulty. At the other end of

the bridge a street lined with comfortable houses, and bordered with

trees, led us into the pleasant town or village of Hampton--pleasant

once, but now deserted by all the inhabitants except some pauperised

whites and a colony of negroes. It was in full occupation of the

Federal soldiers, and I observed that most of the men were Germans,

the garrison at Newport News being principally composed of Americans.

The old red brick houses, with cornices of white stone; the narrow

windows and high gables; gave an aspect of antiquity and European

comfort to the place, the like of which I have not yet seen in the

States. Most of the shops were closed; in some the shutters were

still down, and the goods remained displayed in the windows. “I have

allowed no plundering,” said the General; “and if I find a fellow

trying to do it, I will hang him as sure as my name is Butler. See

here,” and as he spoke he walked into a large woollen-draper’s shop,

where bales of cloth were still lying on the shelves, and many

articles such as are found in a large general store in a country

town were disposed on the floor or counters; “they shall not accuse

the men under my command of being robbers.” The boast, however, was

not so well justified in a visit to another house occupied by some

soldiers. “Well,” said the General, with a smile, “I daresay you

know enough of camps to have found out that chairs and tables are

irresistible; the men will take them off to their tents, though they

may have to leave them next morning.”

The principal object of our visit was the fortified trench which

has been raised outside the town towards the Confederate lines.

The path lay through a churchyard filled with most interesting

monuments. The sacred edifice of red brick, with a square clock

tower rent by lightning, is rendered interesting by the fact that

it is almost the first church built by the English colonists of

Virginia. On the tombstones are recorded the names of many subjects

of his Majesty George III., and familiar names of persons born in

the early part of last century in English villages, who passed to

their rest before the great rebellion of the Colonies had disturbed

their notions of loyalty and respect to the Crown. Many a British

subject, too, lies there, whose latter days must have been troubled

by the strange scenes of the war of independence. With what doubt

and distrust must that one at whose tomb I stand have heard that

George Washington was making head against the troops of His Majesty

King George III.! How the hearts of the old men who had passed the

best years of their existence, as these stones tell us, fighting for

His Majesty against the French, must have beaten when once more they

heard the roar of the Frenchman’s ordnance uniting with the voices

of the rebellious guns of the colonists from the plains of Yorktown

against the entrenchments in which Cornwallis and his deserted band

stood at hopeless bay! But could these old eyes open again, and see

General Butler standing on the eastern rampart which bounds their

resting-place, and pointing to the spot whence the rebel cavalry

of Virginia issue night and day to charge the loyal pickets of His

Majesty The Union, they might take some comfort in the fulfilment of

the vaticinations which no doubt they uttered, “It cannot, and it

will not, come to good.”

Having inspected the works--as far as I could judge, too extended,

and badly traced--which I say with all deference to the able young

engineer who accompanied us to point out the various objects of

interest--the General returned to the bridge, where we remounted, and

made a tour of the camps of the force intended to defend Hampton,

falling back on Fortress Monroe in case of necessity. Whilst he was

riding _ventre à terre_, which seems to be his favourite pace, his

horse stumbled in the dusty road, and in his effort to keep his

seat the General broke his stirrup leather, and the ponderous brass

stirrup fell to the ground; but, albeit a lawyer, he neither lost his

seat nor his _sang froid_, and calling out to his orderly “to pick

up his toe plate,” the jean slippers were closely pressed, spurs and

all, to the sides of his steed, and away we went once more through

dust and heat so great I was by no means sorry when he pulled up

outside a pretty villa, standing in a garden, which was occupied by

Colonel Max Webber, of the German Turner Regiment, once the property

of General Tyler. The camp of the Turners, who are members of various

gymnastic societies, was situated close at hand; but I had no

opportunity of seeing them at work, as the Colonel insisted on our

partaking of the hospitalities of his little mess, and produced some

bottles of sparkling hock and a block of ice, by no means unwelcome

after our fatiguing ride. His Major, whose name I have unfortunately

forgotten, and who spoke English better than his chief, had served

in some capacity or other in the Crimea, and made many inquiries

after the officers of the Guards whom he had known there. I took an

opportunity of asking him in what state the troops were. “The whole

thing is a robbery,” he exclaimed; “this war is for the contractors;

the men do not get a third of what the Government pay for them; as

for discipline, my God! it exists not. We Germans are well enough, of

course; we know our affair; but as for the Americans, what would you?

They make colonels out of doctors and lawyers, and captains out of

fellows who are not fit to brush a soldier’s shoe.” “But the men get

their pay?” “Yes; that is so. At the end of two months, they get it,

and by that time it is due to sutlers, who charge them 100 per cent.”

It is easy to believe these old soldiers do not put much confidence

in General Butler, though they admit his energy. “Look you; one

good officer with 5000 steady troops, such as we have in Europe,

shall come down any night and walk over us all into Fortress Monroe

whenever he pleased, if he knew how these troops were placed.”

On leaving the German Turners, the General visited the camp of

Duryea’s New York Zouaves, who were turned out at evening parade,

or more properly speaking, drill. But for the ridiculous effect of

their costume the regiment would have looked well enough; but riding

down on the rear of the ranks the discoloured napkins tied round

their heads, without any fez cap beneath, so that the hair sometimes

stuck up through the folds, the ill-made jackets, the loose bags

of red calico hanging from their loins, the long gaiters of white

cotton--instead of the real Zouave yellow and black greave, and smart

white gaiter--made them appear such military scarecrows, I could

scarcely refrain from laughing outright. Nevertheless the men were

respectably drilled, marched steadily in columns of company, wheeled

into line, and went past at quarter distance at the double much

better than could be expected from the short time they had been in

the field, and I could with all sincerity say to Col. Duryea, a smart

and not unpretentious gentleman, who asked my opinion so pointedly

that I could not refuse to give it, that I considered the appearance

of the regiment very creditable. The shades of evening were now

falling, and as I had been up before 5 o’clock in the morning, I was

not sorry when General Butler said, “Now we will go home to tea, or

you will detain the steamer.” He had arranged before I started that

the vessel, which in ordinary course would have returned to Baltimore

at 8 o’clock, should remain till he sent down word to the captain to

go.

We scampered back to the fort, and judging from the challenges and

vigilance of the sentries, and inlying pickets, I am not quite so

satisfied as the Major that the enemy could have surprised the place.

At the tea-table there were no additions to the General’s family; he

therefore spoke without any reserve. Going over the map, he explained

his views in reference to future operations, and showed cause, with

more military acumen than I could have expected from a gentleman of

the long robe, why he believed Fortress Monroe was the true base of

operations against Richmond.

I have been convinced for some time, that if a sufficient force

could be left to cover Washington, the Federals should move against

Richmond from the Peninsula, where they could form their depôts at

leisure, and advance, protected by their gunboats, on a very short

line which offers far greater facilities and advantages than the

inland route from Alexandria to Richmond, which, difficult in itself

from the nature of the country, is exposed to the action of a hostile

population, and, above all, to the danger of constant attacks by the

enemies’ cavalry, tending more or less to destroy all communication

with the base of the Federal operations.

The threat of seizing Washington led to a concentration of the Union

troops in front of it, which caused in turn the collection of the

Confederates on the lines below to defend Richmond. It is plain that

if the Federals can cover Washington, and at the same time assemble a

force at Monroe strong enough to march on Richmond, as they desire,

the Confederates will be placed in an exceedingly hazardous position,

scarcely possible to escape from; and there is no reason why the

North, with their overwhelming preponderance, should not do so,

unless they be carried away by the fatal spirit of brag and bluster

which comes from their press to overrate their own strength and to

despise their enemy’s. The occupation of Suffolk will be seen, by any

one who studies the map, to afford a most powerful leverage to the

Federal forces from Monroe in their attempts to turn the enemy out of

their camps of communication, and to enable them to menace Richmond

as well as the Southern States most seriously.

But whilst the General and I are engaged over our maps and mint

juleps, time flies, and at last I perceive by the clock that it is

time to go. An aide is sent to stop the boat, but he returns ere

I leave with the news that “She is gone.” Whereupon the General

sends for the Quartermaster Talmadge, who is out in the camps, and

only arrives in time to receive a severe “wigging.” It so happened

that I had important papers to send off by the next mail from New

York, and the only chance of being able to do so depended on my

being in Baltimore next day. General Butler acted with kindness and

promptitude in the matter. “I promised you should go by the steamer,

but the captain has gone off without orders or leave, for which he

shall answer when I see him. Meantime it is my business to keep my

promise. Captain Talmadge, you will at once go down and give orders

to the most suitable transport steamer or chartered vessel available,

to get up steam at once and come up to the wharf for Mr. Russell.”

Whilst I was sitting in the parlour which served as the General’s

office, there came in a pale, bright-eyed, slim young man in a

subaltern’s uniform, who sought a private audience, and unfolded a

plan he had formed, on certain data gained by nocturnal expeditions,

to surprise a body of the enemy’s cavalry which was in the habit of

coming down every night and disturbing the pickets at Hampton. His

manner was so eager, his information so precise, that the General

could not refuse his sanction, but he gave it in a characteristic

manner. “Well, sir, I understand your proposition. You intend to go

out as a volunteer to effect this service. You ask my permission to

get men for it. I cannot grant you an order to any of the officers in

command of regiments to provide you with these; but if the Colonel of

your regiment wishes to give leave to his men to volunteer, and they

like to go with you, I give you leave to take them. I wash my hands

of all responsibility in the affair.” The officer bowed and retired,

saying, “That is quite enough, General.”[2]

At 10 o’clock the Quartermaster came back to say that a screw

steamer called the Elizabeth was getting up steam for my reception,

and I bade good-by to the General, and walked down with his aide

and nephew, Lieutenant Butler, to the Hygeia Hotel to get my light

knapsack. It was a lovely moonlight night, and as I was passing down

an avenue of trees an officer stopped me, and exclaimed, “General

Butler, I hear you have given leave to Lieutenant Blank to take a

party of my regiment and go off scouting to-night after the enemy.

It is too hard that--” What more he was going to say I know not, for

I corrected the mistake, and the officer walked hastily on towards

the General’s quarters. On reaching the Hygeia Hotel I was met by the

correspondent of a New York paper, who as commissary-general, or,

as they are styled in the States, officer of subsistence, had been

charged to get the boat ready, and who explained to me it would be at

least an hour before the steam was up; and whilst I was waiting in

the porch I heard many Virginian, and old world stories as well, the

general upshot of which was that all the rest of the world could be

“done” at cards, in love, in drink, in horseflesh, and in fighting,

by the true-born American. Gen. Butler came down after a time, and

joined our little society, nor was he by any means the least shrewd

and humorous _raconteur_ of the party. At 11 o’clock the Elizabeth

uttered some piercing cries, which indicated she had her steam up;

and so I walked down to the jetty, accompanied by my host and his

friends, and wishing them good bye, stepped on board the little

vessel, and with the aid of the negro cook, steward, butler, boots,

and servant, roused out the captain from a small wooden trench which

he claimed as his berth, turned into it, and fell asleep just as the

first difficult convulsions of the screw aroused the steamer from her

coma, and forced her languidly against the tide in the direction of

Baltimore.

_July 15th._--I need not speak much of the events of last night,

which were not unimportant, perhaps, to some of the insects which

played a leading part in them. The heat was literally overpowering;

for in addition to the hot night there was the full power of

most irritable boilers close at hand to aggravate the natural

_désagrémens_ of the situation. About an hour after dawn, when I

turned out on deck, there was nothing visible but a warm grey mist;

but a knotty old pilot on deck told me we were only going six knots

an hour against tide and wind, and that we were likely to make less

way as the day wore on. In fact, instead of being near Baltimore,

we were much nearer Fortress Monroe. Need I repeat the horrors of

this day? Stewed, boiled, baked, and grilled on board this miserable

Elizabeth, I wished M. Montalembert could have experienced with me

what such an impassive nature could inflict in misery on those around

it. The captain was a shy, silent man, much given to short naps in

my temporary berth, and the mate was so wild, he might have swam off

with perfect propriety to the woods on either side of us, and taken

to a tree as an aborigen or chimpanzee. Two men of most retiring

habits, the negro, a black boy, and a very fat negress who officiated

as cook, filled up the “balance” of the crew.

I could not write, for the vibration of the deck of the little

craft gave a St. Vitus dance to pen and pencil; reading was out

of the question from the heat and flies; and below stairs the fat

cook banished repose by vapours from her dreadful caldrons, where,

Medea-like, she was boiling some death broth. Our breakfast was of

the simplest and--may I add?--the least enticing; and if the dinner

could have been worse it was so; though it was rendered attractive

by hunger, and by the kindness of the sailors who shared it with me.

The old pilot had a most wholesome hatred of the Britishers, and not

having the least idea till late in the day that I belonged to the old

country, favoured me with some very remarkable views respecting their

general mischievousness and inutility. As soon as he found out my

secret he became more reserved, and explained to me that he had some

reason for not liking us, because all he had in the world, as pretty

a schooner as ever floated and a fine cargo, had been taken and

burnt by the English when they sailed up the Potomac to Washington.

He served against us at Bladensburg. I did not ask him how fast he

ran; but he had a good rejoinder ready if I had done so, inasmuch as

he was up West under Commodore Perry on the lakes when we suffered

our most serious reverses. Six knots an hour! hour after hour! And

nothing to do but to listen to the pilot.

On both sides a line of forest just visible above the low shores.

Small coasting craft, schooners, pungys, boats laden with wood

creeping along in the shallow water, or plying down empty before wind

and tide.

“I doubt if we’ll be able to catch up them forts afore night,” said

the skipper. The pilot grunted, “I rather think yu’ll not.” “H----

and thunder! Then we’ll have to lie off till daylight?” “They may let

you pass, Captain Squires, as you’ve this Europe-an on board, but

anyhow we can’t fetch Baltimore till late at night or early in the

morning.”

I heard the dialogue, and decided very quickly that as Annapolis lay

somewhere ahead on our left, and was much nearer than Baltimore, it

would be best to run for it while there was daylight. The captain

demurred. He had been ordered to take his vessel to Baltimore,

and General Butler might come down on him for not doing so; but I

proposed to sign a letter stating he had gone to Annapolis at my

request, and the steamer was put a point or two to westward, much to

the pleasure of the Palinurus, whose “old woman” lived in the town.

I had an affection for this weather-beaten, watery-eyed, honest old

fellow, who hated us as cordially as Jack detested his Frenchman in

the old days before _ententes cordiales_ were known to the world. He

was thoroughly English in his belief that he belonged to the only

sailor race in the world, and that they could beat all mankind in

seamanship; and he spoke in the most unaffected way of the Britishers

as a survivor of the old war might do of Johnny Crapaud--“They were

brave enough no doubt, but, Lord bless you, see them in a gale of

wind! or look at them sending down top-gallant masts, or anything

sailor-like in a breeze. _You’d_ soon see the differ. And, besides,

they _never can_ stand again us at close quarters.” By-and-by the

houses of a considerable town, crowned by steeples, and a large

Corinthian-looking building, came in view. “That’s the State House.

That’s where George Washington--first in peace, first in war, and

first in the hearts of his countrymen--laid down his victorious sword

without any one asking him, and retired amid the applause of the

civilized world.” This flight I am sure was the old man’s treasured

relic of school-boy days, and I’m not sure he did not give it to me

three times over. Annapolis looks very well from the river side. The

approach is guarded by some very poor earthworks and one small fort.

A dismantled sloop of war lay off a sea wall, banking up a green lawn

covered with trees, in front of an old-fashioned pile of buildings,

which formerly, I think, and very recently indeed, was occupied by

the cadets of the United States Naval School. “There was a lot of

them Seceders. Lord bless you! these young ones is all took by these

States Rights’ doctrines--just as the ladies is caught by a new

fashion.”

About seven o’clock the steamer hove alongside a wooden pier which

was quite deserted. Only some ten or twelve sailing boats, yachts,

and schooners lay at anchor in the placid waters of the port which

was once the capital of Maryland, and for which the early Republicans

prophesied a great future. But Baltimore has eclipsed Annapolis into

utter obscurity. I walked to the only hotel in the place, and found

that the train for the junction with Washington had started, and that

the next train left at some impossible hour in the morning. It is an

odd Rip Van Winkle sort of a place. Quaint-looking boarders came down

to the tea-table and talked Secession, and when I was detected, as

must ever soon be the case, owing to the hotel book, I was treated to

some ill-favoured glances, as my recent letters have been denounced

in the strongest way for their supposed hostility to States Rights

and the Domestic Institution. The spirit of the people has, however,

been broken by the Federal occupation, and by the decision with

which Butler acted when he came down here with the troops to open

communications with Washington after the Baltimoreans had attacked

the soldiery on their way through the city from the north.

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