CHAPTER IX.

Interview with Mr. Seward--My passport--Mr. Seward’s views

as to the war--Illumination at Washington--My “servant”

absents himself--New York journalism--The Capitol--Interior of

Congress--The President’s Message--Speeches in Congress--Lord

Lyons--General M‘Dowell--Low standard in the army--Accident to

the “Stars and Stripes”--A street row--Mr. Bigelow--Mr. N.P.

Willis.

When the Senate had adjourned, I drove to the State Department and

saw Mr. Seward, who looked much more worn and haggard than when I saw

him last, three months ago. He congratulated me on my safe return

from the South in time to witness some stirring events. “Well, Mr.

Secretary, I am quite sure that, if all the South are of the same

mind as those I met in my travels, there will be many battles before

they submit to the Federal Government.”

“It is not submission to the Government we want; it is to assent to

the principles of the Constitution. When you left Washington we had

a few hundred regulars and some hastily-levied militia to defend the

national capital, and a battery and a half of artillery under the

command of a traitor. The Navy-yard was in the hands of a disloyal

officer. We were surrounded by treason. Now we are supported by

the loyal States which have come forward in defence of the best

Government on the face of the earth, and the unfortunate and

desperate men who have commenced this struggle will have to yield or

experience the punishment due to their crimes.”

“But, Mr. Seward, has not this great exhibition of strength been

attended by some circumstances calculated to inspire apprehension

that liberty in the free States may be impaired; for instance, I hear

that I must procure a passport in order to travel through the States

and go into the camps in front of Washington.”

“Yes, sir; you must send your passport here from Lord Lyons, with his

signature. It will be no good till I have signed it, and then it must

be sent to General Scott, as Commander-in-Chief of the United States

army, who will subscribe it, after which it will be available for all

legitimate purposes. You are not in any way impaired in your liberty

by the process.”

“Neither is, one may say, the man who is under surveillance of the

police in despotic countries in Europe; he has only to submit to a

certain formality, and he is all right; in fact, it is said by some

people, that the protection afforded by a passport is worth all the

trouble connected with having it in order.”

Mr. Seward seemed to think it was quite likely. There were

corresponding measures taken in the Southern States by the rebels,

and it was necessary to have some control over traitors and disloyal

persons. “In this contest,” said he, “the Government will not shrink

from using all the means which they consider necessary to restore

the Union.” It was not my place to remark that such doctrines were

exactly identical with all that despotic governments in Europe have

advanced as the ground of action in cases of revolt, or with a view

to the maintenance of their strong Governments. “The Executive,”

said he, “has declared in the inaugural that the rights of the

Federal Government shall be fully vindicated. We are dealing with

an insurrection within our own country, of our own people, and the

Government of Great Britain have thought fit to recognise that

insurrection before we were able to bring the strength of the Union

to bear against it, by conceding to it the status of belligerent.

Although we might justly complain of such an unfriendly act in

a manner that might injure the friendly relations between the

two countries, we do not desire to give any excuse for foreign

interference; although we do not hesitate, in case of necessity, to

resist it to the uttermost, we have less to fear from a foreign war

than any country in the world. If any European Power provokes a war,

we shall not shrink from it. A contest between Great Britain and the

United States would wrap the world in fire, and at the end it would

not be the United States which would have to lament the results of

the conflict.”

I could not but admire the confidence--may I say the coolness?--of

the statesman who sat in his modest little room within the sound of

the evening’s guns, in a capital menaced by their forces who spoke

so fearlessly of war with a Power which could have blotted out the

paper blockade of the Southern forts and coast in a few hours, and,

in conjunction with the Southern armies, have repeated the occupation

and destruction of the capital.

The President sent for Mr. Seward whilst I was in the State

Department, and I walked up Pennsylvania Avenue to my lodgings,

through a crowd of men in uniform who were celebrating Independence

Day in their own fashion--some by the large internal use of

fire-water, others by an external display of fireworks.

Directly opposite my lodgings are the head-quarters of General

Mansfield, commanding the district, which are marked by a guard

at the door and a couple of six-pounder guns pointing down the

street. I called upon the General, but he was busy examining certain

inhabitants of Alexandria and of Washington itself, who had been

brought before him on the charge of being Secessionists, and I left

my card, and proceeded to General Scott’s head-quarters, which I

found packed with officers. The General received me in a small room,

and expressed his gratification at my return, but I saw he was so

busy with reports, despatches, and maps, that I did not trespass on

his time. I dined with Lord Lyons, and afterwards went with some

members of the Legation to visit the camps, situated in the public

square.

All the population of Washington had turned out in their best to

listen to the military bands, the music of which was rendered nearly

inaudible by the constant discharge of fireworks. The camp of the

12th New York presented a very pretty and animated scene. The men

liberated from duty were enjoying themselves out and inside their

tents, and the sutlers’ booths were driving a roaring trade. I was

introduced to Colonel Butterfield, commanding the regiment, who was

a merchant of New York; but notwithstanding the training of the

counting-house, he looked very much like a soldier, and had got

his regiment very fairly in hand. In compliance with a desire of

Professor Henry, the Colonel had prepared a number of statistical

tables in which the nationality, height, weight, breadth of chest,

age, and other particulars respecting the men under his command

were entered. I looked over the book, and as far as I could judge,

but two out of twelve of the soldiers were native-born Americans,

the rest being Irish, German, English, and European-born generally.

According to the commanding officer they were in the highest state

of discipline and obedience. He had given them leave to go out as

they pleased for the day, but at tattoo only 14 men out of 1000 were

absent, and some of those had been accounted for by reports that they

were incapable of locomotion owing to the hospitality of the citizens.

When I returned to my lodgings, the coloured boy whom I had hired

at Niagara was absent, and I was told he had not come in since the

night before. “These free coloured boys,” said my landlord, “are a

bad set; now they are worse than ever; the officers of the army are

taking them all away from us; it’s just the life they like; they get

little work, have good pay; but what they like most is robbing and

plundering the farmers’ houses over in Virginia; what with Germans

Irish, and free niggers, Lord help the poor Virginians, I say; but

they’ll give them a turn yet.”

The sounds in Washington to-night might have led one to believe the

city was carried by storm. Constant explosion of firearms, fireworks,

shouting, and cries in the streets, which combined, with the heat

and the abominable odours of the undrained houses and mosquitoes, to

drive sleep far away.

_July 5th._--As the young gentleman of colour, to whom I had given

egregious ransom as well as an advance of wages, did not appear

this morning, I was, after an abortive attempt to boil water for

coffee and to get a piece of toast, compelled to go in next door, and

avail myself of the hospitality of Captain Cecil Johnson, who was

installed in the drawing-room of Madame Jost. In the forenoon, Mr.

John Bigelow, whose acquaintance I made, much to my gratification in

time gone by, on the margin of the Lake of Thun, found me out, and

proffered his services; which, as the whilom editor of the _Evening

Post_ and as a leading Republican, he was in a position to render

valuable and most effective; but he could not make a Bucephalus to

order, and I have been running through the stables of Washington

in vain, hoping to find something up to my weight--such flankless,

screwy, shoulderless, cat-like creatures were never seen--four of

them would scarcely furnish ribs and legs enough to carry a man, but

the owners thought that each of them was fit for Baron Rothschild;

and then there was saddlery and equipments of all sorts to be got,

which the influx of officers and the badness and dearness of the

material put quite beyond one’s reach. Mr. Bigelow was of opinion

that the army would move at once; “but,” said I, “where is the

transport--where the cavalry and guns?” “Oh,” replied he “I suppose

we have got everything that is required. I know nothing of these

things, but I am told cavalry are no use in the wooded country

towards Richmond.” I have not yet been able to go through the camps,

but I doubt very much whether the material or commissariat of the

grand army of the North is at all adequate to a campaign.

The presumption and ignorance of the New York journals would be

ridiculous were they not so mischievous. They describe “this horde

of battalion companies--unofficered, clad in all kinds of different

uniform, diversely equipped, perfectly ignorant of the principles of

military obedience and concerted action,”--for so I hear it described

by United States officers themselves--as being “the greatest army the

world ever saw; perfect in officers and discipline; unsurpassed in

devotion and courage; furnished with every requisite; and destined on

its first march to sweep into Richmond, and to obliterate from the

Potomac to New Orleans every trace of rebellion.”

The Congress met to-day to hear the President’s Message read. Somehow

or other there is not such anxiety and eagerness to hear what Mr.

Lincoln has to say as one could expect on such a momentous occasion.

It would seem as if the forthcoming appeal to arms had overshadowed

every other sentiment in the minds of the people. They are waiting

for deeds, and care not for words. The confidence of the New York

papers, and of the citizens, soldiers, and public speakers, contrast

with the dubious and gloomy views of the military men; but of this

Message itself there are some incidents independent of the occasion

to render it curious, if not interesting. The President has, it

is said, written much of it in his own fashion, which has been

revised and altered by his Ministers; but he has written it again

and repeated himself, and after many struggles a good deal of pure

Lincolnism goes down to Congress.

At a little after half-past eleven I went down to the Capitol.

Pennsylvania Avenue was thronged as before, but on approaching

Capitol Hill, the crowd rather thinned away, as though they shunned,

or had no curiosity to hear, the President’s Message. One would

have thought that, where every one who could get in was at liberty

to attend the galleries in both Houses, there would have been an

immense pressure from the inhabitants and strangers in the city, as

well as from the citizen soldiers, of which such multitudes were in

the street; but when I looked up from the floor of the Senate, I was

astonished to see that the galleries were not more than three parts

filled. There is always a ruinous look about an unfinished building

when it is occupied and devoted to business. The Capitol is situated

on a hill, one face of which is scarped by the road, and has the

appearance of being formed of heaps of rubbish. Towards Pennsylvania

Avenue the long frontage abuts on a lawn shaded by trees, through

which walks and avenues lead to the many entrances under the

porticoes and colonnades; the face which corresponds on the other

side looks out on heaps of brick and mortar, cut stone, and a waste

of marble blocks lying half buried in the earth and cumbering the

ground, which, in the magnificent ideas of the founders and planners

of the city, was to be occupied by stately streets. The cleverness of

certain speculators in land prevented the execution of the original

idea, which was to radiate all the main avenues of the city from

the Capitol as a centre, the intermediate streets being formed by

circles drawn at regularly-increasing intervals from the Capitol,

and intersected by the radii. The speculators purchased up the land

on the side between the Navy-yard and the site of the Capitol; the

result--the land is unoccupied, except by paltry houses, and the

capitalists are ruined.

The Capitol would be best described by a series of photographs.

Like the Great Republic itself, it is unfinished. It resembles it

in another respect: it looks best at a distance; and, again, it is

incongruous in its parts. The passages are so dark that artificial

light is often required to enable one to find his way. The offices

and bureaux of the committees are better than the chambers of the

Senate and the House of Representatives. All the encaustics and the

white marble and stone staircases suffer from tobacco juice, though

there is a liberal display of spittoons at every corner. The official

messengers, doorkeepers, and porters wear no distinctive badge or

dress. No policemen are on duty, as in our Houses of Parliament; no

soldiery, gendarmerie, or sergens-de-ville in the precincts; the

crowd wanders about the passages as it pleases, and shows the utmost

propriety, never going where it ought not to intrude. There is a

special gallery set apart for women; the reporters are commodiously

placed in an ample gallery, above the Speaker’s chair; the diplomatic

circle have their gallery facing the reporters, and they are placed

so low down in the somewhat depressed Chamber, that every word can

be heard from speakers in the remotest parts of the house very

distinctly.

The seats of the members are disposed in a manner somewhat like

those in the French Chambers. Instead of being in parallel rows to

the walls, and at right angles to the Chairman’s seat, the separate

chairs and desks of the Senators are arranged in semicircular rows.

The space between the walls and the outer semicircle is called

the floor of the house, and it is a high compliment to a stranger

to introduce him within this privileged place. There are leather

cushioned seats and lounges put for the accommodation of those who

may be introduced by Senators, or to whom, as distinguished members

of Congress in former days, the permission is given to take their

seats. Senators Sumner and Wilson introduced me to a chair, and made

me acquainted with a number of Senators before the business of the

day began.

Mr. Sumner, as the Chairman of the Committee on Foreign Relations, is

supposed to be viewed with some jealousy by Mr. Seward, on account

of the disposition attributed to him to interfere in diplomatic

questions; but if he does so, we shall have no reason to complain,

as the Senator is most desirous of keeping the peace between the two

countries, and of mollifying any little acerbities and irritations

which may at present exist between them. Senator Wilson is a man

who has risen from what would be considered in any country but a

republic the lowest ranks of the people. He apprenticed himself to

a poor shoemaker when he was twenty-two years of age, and when he

was twenty-four years old he began to go to school, and devoted all

his earnings to the improvement of education. He got on by degrees,

till he set up as a master shoe maker and manufacturer, became a

“major-general” of State militia; finally was made Senator of the

United States, and is now “Chairman of the Committee of the Senate on

Military Affairs.” He is a bluff man, of about fifty years of age,

with a peculiar eye and complexion, and seems honest and vigorous.

But is he not going ultra crepidam in such a post? At present he is

much perplexed by the drunkenness which prevails among the troops,

or rather by the desire of the men for spirits, as he has a New

England mania on that point. One of the most remarkable-looking men

in the House is Mr. Sumner. Mr. Breckinridge and he would probably

be the first persons to excite the curiosity of a stranger, so far

as to induce him to ask for their names. Save in height--and both

are a good deal over six feet--there is no resemblance between the

champion of States Rights and the orator of the Black Republicans.

The massive head, the great chin and jaw, and the penetrating eyes of

Mr. Breckinridge convey the idea of a man of immense determination,

courage, and sagacity. Mr. Sumner’s features are indicative of a

philosophical and poetical turn of thought, and one might easily

conceive that he would be a great advocate, but an indifferent leader

of a party.

It was a hot day; but there was no excuse for the slop coats and

light-coloured clothing and felt wide-awakes worn by so many Senators

in such a place. They gave the meeting the aspect of a gathering

of bakers or millers; nor did the constant use of the spittoons

beside their desks, their reading of newspapers and writing letters

during the dispatch of business, or the hurrying to and fro of the

pages of the House between the seats, do anything but derogate from

the dignity of the assemblage, and, according to European notions,

violate the respect due to a Senate Chamber. The pages alluded to

are smart boys, from twelve to fifteen years of age, who stand below

the President’s table, and are employed to go on errands and carry

official messages by the members. They wear no particular uniform,

and are dressed as the taste or means of their parents dictate.

The House of Representatives exaggerates all the peculiarities I have

observed in the Senate, but the debates are not regarded with so

much interest as those of the Upper House; indeed, they are of far

less importance. Strong-minded statesmen and officers--Presidents

or Ministers--do not care much for the House of Representatives, so

long as they are sure of the Senate; and, for the matter of that,

a President like Jackson does not care much for Senate and House

together. There are privileges attached to a seat in either branch

of the Legislature, independent of the great fact that they receive

mileage and are paid for their services, which may add some incentive

to ambition. Thus the members can order whole tons of stationery for

their use, not only when they are in session, but during the recess.

Their frank covers parcels by mail, and it is said that Senators

without a conscience have sent sewing-machines to their wives and

pianos to their daughters as little parcels by post. I had almost

forgotten that much the same abuses were in vogue in England some

century ago.

The galleries were by no means full, and in that reserved for the

diplomatic body the most notable person was M. Mercier, the Minister

of France, who, fixing his intelligent and eager face between both

hands, watched with keen scrutiny the attitude and conduct of the

Senate. None of the members of the English Legation were present.

After the lapse of an hour, Mr. Hay, the President’s Secretary, made

his appearance on the floor, and sent in the Message to the Clerk of

the Senate, Mr. Forney, who proceeded to read it to the House. It

was listened to in silence, scarcely broken except when some Senator

murmured “Good, that is so;” but in fact the general purport of it

was already known to the supporters of the Ministry, and not a

sound came from the galleries. Soon after Mr. Forney had finished,

the galleries were cleared, and I returned up Pennsylvania Avenue,

in which the crowds of soldiers around bar-rooms, oyster shops,

and restaurants, the groups of men in officers’ uniform, and the

clattering of disorderly mounted cavaliers in the dust, increased my

apprehension that discipline was very little regarded, and that the

army over the Potomac had not a very strong hand to keep it within

bounds.

As I was walking over with Captain Johnson to dine with Lord Lyons,

I met General Scott leaving his office and walking with great

difficulty between two aides-de-camp. He was dressed in a blue frock

with gold lace shoulder straps, fastened round the waist by a yellow

sash, and with large yellow lapels turned back over the chest in the

old style, and moved with great difficulty along the pavement. “You

see I am trying to hobble along, but it is hard for me to overcome my

many infirmities. I regret I could not have the pleasure of granting

you an interview to-day, but I shall cause it to be intimated to you

when I may have the pleasure of seeing you; meantime I shall provide

you with a pass and the necessary introductions to afford you all

facilities with the army.”

After dinner I made a round of visits, and heard the diplomatists

speaking of the Message; few, if any of them, in its favour. With

the exception perhaps of Baron Gerolt, the Prussian Minister,

there is not one member of the Legations who justifies the attempt

of the Northern States to assert the supremacy of the Federal

Government by the force of arms. Lord Lyons, indeed, in maintaining

a judicious reticence whenever he does speak, gives utterance to

sentiments becoming the representative of Great Britain at the court

of a friendly Power, and the Minister of a people who have been

protagonists to slavery for many a long year.

_July 6th._--I breakfasted with Mr. Bigelow this morning, to meet

General M‘Dowell, who commands the army of the Potomac, now so soon

to move. He came in without an aide-de-camp, and on foot, from his

quarters in the city. He is a man about forty years of age, square

and powerfully built, but with rather a stout and clumsy figure and

limbs, a good head covered with close-cut thick dark hair, small

light-blue eyes, short nose, large cheeks and jaw, relieved by an

iron-grey tuft somewhat of the French type, and affecting in dress

the style of our gallant allies. His manner is frank, simple, and

agreeable, and he did not hesitate to speak with great openness of

the difficulties he had to contend with, and the imperfection of all

the arrangements of the army.

As an officer of the regular army he has a thorough contempt for what

he calls “political generals”--the men who use their influence with

President and Congress to obtain military rank, which in time of war

places them before the public in the front of events, and gives them

an appearance of leading in the greatest of all political movements.

Nor is General M‘Dowell enamoured of volunteers, for he served in

Mexico, and has from what he saw there formed rather an unfavourable

opinion of their capabilities in the field. He is inclined, however,

to hold the Southern troops in too little respect; and he told me

that the volunteers from the slave states, who entered the field

full of exultation and boastings, did not make good their words,

and that they suffered especially from sickness and disease, in

consequence of their disorderly habits and dissipation. His regard

for old associations was evinced in many questions he asked me about

Beauregard, with whom he had been a student at West Point, where the

Confederate commander was noted for his studious and reserved habits,

and his excellence in feats of strength and athletic exercises.

As proof of the low standard established in his army, he mentioned

that some officers of considerable rank were more than suspected of

selling rations, and of illicit connections with sutlers for purposes

of pecuniary advantage. The General walked back with me as far as my

lodgings, and I observed that not one of the many soldiers he passed

in the streets saluted him, though his rank was indicated by his

velvet collar and cuffs, and a gold star on the shoulder strap.

Having written some letters, I walked out with Captain Johnson and

one of the attachés of the British Legation, to the lawn at the

back of the White House, and listened to the excellent band of the

United States Marines, playing on a kind of dais under the large

flag recently hoisted by the President himself, in the garden. The

occasion was marked by rather an ominous event. As the President

pulled the halyards and the flag floated aloft, a branch of a tree

caught the bunting and tore it, so that a number of the stars and

stripes were detached and hung dangling beneath the rest of the flag,

half detached from the staff.

I dined at Captain Johnson’s lodgings next door to mine. Beneath us

was a wine and spirit store, and crowds of officers and men flocked

indiscriminately to make their purchases, with a good deal of tumult,

which increased as the night came on. Later still, there was a

great disturbance in the city. A body of New York Zouaves wrecked

some houses of bad repute, in one of which a private of the regiment

was murdered early this morning. The cavalry patrols were called

out and charged the rioters, who were dispersed with difficulty

after resistance in which men on both sides were wounded. There is

no police, no provost guard. Soldiers wander about the streets, and

beg in the fashion of the mendicant in “Gil Blas” for money to get

whisky. My coloured gentleman has been led away by the Saturnalia and

has taken to gambling in the camps, which are surrounded by hordes of

rascally followers and sutlers’ servants, and I find myself on the

eve of a campaign, without servant, horse, equipment, or means of

transport.

_July 7th._--Mr. Bigelow invited me to breakfast, to meet Mr. Senator

King, Mr. Olmsted, Mr. Thurlow Weed, a Senator from Missouri, a

West Point professor, and others. It was indicative of the serious

difficulties which embarrass the action of the Government to hear Mr.

Wilson, the Chairman of the Military Committee of the Senate, inveigh

against the officers of the regular army, and attack West Point

itself. Whilst the New York papers were lauding General Scott and his

plans to the skies, the Washington politicians were speaking of him

as obstructive, obstinate, and prejudiced--unfit for the times and

the occasion.

General Scott refused to accept cavalry and artillery at the

beginning of the levy, and said that they were not required; now

he was calling for both arms most urgently. The officers of the

regular army had followed suit. Although they were urgently pressed

by the politicians to occupy Harper’s Ferry and Manassas, they

refused to do either, and the result is that the enemy have obtained

invaluable supplies from the first place, and are now assembled in

force in a most formidable position at the second. Everything as

yet accomplished has been done by political generals--not by the

officers of the regular army. Butler and Banks saved Baltimore in

spite of General Scott. There was an attempt made to cry up Lyon

in Missouri; but in fact it was Frank Blair, the brother of the

Postmaster-General, who had been the soul and body of all the actions

in that State. The first step taken by M‘Clellan in Western Virginia

was atrocious--he talked of slaves in a public document as property.

Butler, at Monroe, had dealt with them in a very different spirit,

and had used them for State purposes under the name of contraband.

One man alone displayed powers of administrative ability, and that

was Quartermaster Meigs; and unquestionably from all I heard, the

praise was well bestowed. It is plain enough that the political

leaders fear the consequences of delay, and that they are urging

the military authorities to action, which the latter have too much

professional knowledge to take with their present means. These

Northern men know nothing of the South, and with them it is _omne

ignotum pro minimo_. The West Point professor listened to them with a

quiet smile, and exchanged glances with me now and then, as much as

to say, “Did you ever hear such fools in your life?”

But the conviction of ultimate success is not less strong here than

it is in the South. The difference between these gentlemen and

the Southerners is, that in the South the leaders of the people,

soldiers and civilians, are all actually under arms, and are ready to

make good their words by exposing their bodies in battle.

I walked home with Mr. N.P. Willis, who is at Washington for the

purpose of writing sketches to the little family journal of which

he is editor, and giving war “anecdotes;” and with Mr. Olmsted, who

is acting as a member of the New York Sanitary Commission, here

authorised by the Government to take measures against the reign

of dirt and disease in the Federal camp. The Republicans are very

much afraid that there is, even at the present moment, a conspiracy

against the Union in Washington--nay, in Congress itself; and regard

Mr. Breckenridge, Mr. Bayard, Mr. Vallandigham, and others as most

dangerous enemies, who should not be permitted to remain in the

capital. I attended the Episcopal church and heard a very excellent

discourse, free from any political allusion. The service differs

little from our own, except that certain euphemisms are introduced in

the Litany and elsewhere, and the prayers for Queen and Parliament

are offered up _nomine mutato_ for President and Congress.

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