ways of counteracting the dilapidating effects of excessive vinous
irrigation, which is doubly debilitating,--when you suffer the
fascinations of the festive Bowl to seduce You to sacrifice to Bacchus,
those hours which are due to the drowsy God of Night.
[63] "More or less _Alcohol_ is necessary to support the usual vigour of
the greater number of people even in Health--nothing therefore can be
more injudicious than wholly to deprive them of this support when they
are weakened by disease--Dyspeptics who have been accustomed to its use,
cannot be deprived of it--a very moderate use of Wine can hardly be said
to be injurious: we see those who use it in this way, live as long, and
enjoy as good health, as those who wholly abstain from it."--Dr. PHILIP,
_on Indigestion_, 8vo. 1821, pp. 139 and 144.
[64] "No man in health can need Wine till he arrives at 40: he may then
begin with two glasses in the day: at 50 he may add two more."--See
TROTTER _on Drunkenness_, 1804, p. 151.
[65] _Scotch or Irish_ WHISKEY is an infinitely purer spirit than
_English_ GIN--which is an uncertain compound of various Essential Oils,
&c.
[66] Brandy and _Liqueur_ Merchant, No. 2, Colonnade, Pall Mall.
[67] TO MAKE A QUART OF CURAÇOA.--To a pint of the cleanest and
strongest _Rectified Spirit_, (sold by Rickards, Piccadilly,) add two
drachms and a half of the _Sweet Oil of Orange Peel_, (sold by Stewart,
No. 11, Old Broad Street, near the Bank,) shake it up,--dissolve a pound
of good Lump Sugar in a pint of cold water, make this into a Clarified
Syrup, (No. 475), which add to the Spirit, shake it up, and let it stand
till the following day--then line a funnel with a piece of muslin, and
that with filtering paper, and filter it two or three times till it is
quite bright;--or dissolve a drachm and a half of Carbonate of Potash in
about a quarter pint of the Liqueur by rubbing it together in a
mortar--adding it to the Liqueur, and shaking it well up--then
incorporate a like quantity of pounded Alum in another quarter pint of
the Liqueur--and return it to the Liqueur, shake it well up--and in a
little time it will become fine. This Liqueur is an admirable
cordial--and a tea-spoonful in a Tumbler of water, is a very refreshing
Summer drink, and a great improvement to PUNCH.
_Obs._ We do not offer this Receipt as a Rival to Mr. Johnson's
Curaçoa--it is only proposed as an humble substitute for that
incomparable Liqueur.
[68] "Il y a pour le Gourmet plus de soixante sortes de vins;--il n'y en
a que trois pour le Chimiste;--savoir, les vins mousseux, les vins
faits, les vins sucrés. Le sucre existe tout formé par la nature dans
les raisins mûrs de tous les pays; sa proportion fait la principale
différence des vins; c'est le sucre seul qui établit la fermentation
vineuse: si l'on enferme le vin avant qu'elle soit terminée, le gaz, qui
était sur le point de s'échapper, reste dans la liqueur, et le vin est
mousseux. _Ce gaz est de l'acide carbonique_, le même air qui fait
mousser le cidre, la bière, l'hydromel, et les eaux minérales de Seltz,
de Chateldon. Il est dangereux à respirer en quantité, puisqu'il
asphyxie les animaux; mais il est très-salubre à boire ainsi combiné.
Si, au contraire, la fermentation est terminée, le sucre s'est changé
dans le vin, en _eau de vie_, qui tient en dissolution le tartre, le
principe colorant, et le principe extractif du raisin. Voilà, ce qui
constitue les vins faits; ils ne moussent plus, et ils sont plus ou
moins généreux suivant les proportions de leurs principes.
"Enfin, quand le sucre naturel au raisin est trop abondant pour
fermenter en totalité, une portion reste dans la liqueur sous forme de
Sirop, et constitue les vins sucrés d'Espagne, de Constance, etc.--La
différence de saveur dépend d'un arôme particulier, propre au raisin de
chaque climat."--_Cours Gastronomique_, 8vo. 1809. p. 289.
[69] "The human Stomach is capable, in the adult, of containing about
three quarts of water."--BLUMENBACH'S _Physiology_, p. 145.
[70] "By adopting an abstinent plan of diet, even to a degree that
produces a sensation of want in the System, we do that which is most
likely to create appetite and increase the powers of
digestion."--ABERNETHY'S _Surg. Obs._ 68.
[71] To make BEEF or MUTTON TEA.--Cut a pound of lean gravy-meat into
thin slices--put it into a quart and half a pint of cold water--set it
over a gentle fire where it will become gradually warm--when the skum
rises catch it, cover the Saucepan close, and let it continue boiling
for about two hours--skim the fat off, strain it through a sieve or a
napkin--skim it again--let it stand ten minutes to settle, and then pour
off the clear Tea. To make _half a pint_ of BEEF TEA _in five minutes
for three half-pence_, see No. 252; and to make good _Mutton Broth for
Nothing_, No. 490.
N.B.--An Onion, and a few grains of Black Pepper, &c. are sometimes
added. If the Meat is boiled till it is thoroughly tender, mince it and
pound it as directed in No. 503 of the COOK'S ORACLE--and you may have a
dish of POTTED BEEF for the trouble of making it.
[72] "Il y a trois sortes d'appétits; celui que l'on éprouve à jeûn;
sensation impérieuse qui ne chicane point sur le mets, et qui vous fait
venir l'eau à la bouche, à l'aspect d'un bon ragoût. Je le compare au
désir impétueux d'un jeune homme qui voit sourire la beauté qu'il
aime.--_Le second_ appétit est celui que l'on ressent lorsque, s'étant
mis à table sans faim, on a déjà goûté d'un plat succulent, et qui a
consacré le proverbe, _l'appétit vient en mangeant_. Je l'assimile à
l'état d'un mari dont le cœur tiède s'échauffe aux premières caresses
de sa femme.--_Le troisième_ appétit est celui qu'excite un mets
délicieux qui paraît à la fin d'un repas, lorsque, l'estomac satisfait,
l'homme sobre allait quitter la table sans regret. Celui-là trouve son
emblème dans les feux du libertinage, qui quoique illusoires, font
naître cependant quelques plaisirs réels. La connaissance de cette
métaphysique de l'appétit doit guider le Cuisinier habile dans la
composition du premier, du second et du troisième service."--_Cours
Gastronomique_, p. 64.
[73] "It is but INCREASING or _diminishing_ the velocity of certain
fluids in the animal machine,--to elate the Soul with the gayest
hopes,--or to sink her into the deepest despair; to depress the HERO
into a _Coward_--or advance the _Coward_ into a HERO."--FITZOSBORNE'S
_Letters_, 1. viii.
[74]
"SALT, PEPPER, and MUSTARD, ay, VINEGAR too,
Are quite as unwholesome as CURRY I vow,
All lovers of Goose, Duck, or Pig, he'll engage,
That eat it with Onion, Salt, Pepper or Sage,
Will find ill effects from 't," and therefore no doubt
Their prudence should tell them,--best eat it without!
But, alas! these are subjects on which there's no reas'ning,
For you'll still eat your Goose, Duck, or Pig, with its seas'ning;
And what is far worse--notwithstanding his huffing,
You'll make for your Hare and your Veal a good stuffing:
And I fear, if a Leg of good Mutton you boil
With Sauce of vile Capers, that Mutton you'll spoil;
And tho', as you think, to procure good Digestion,
A mouthful of Cheese is the best thing in question:
"In _Gath_ do not tell, nor in _Askalon_ blab it,
You're strictly forbidden to eat a _Welsh Rabbit_."
And _Bread_, "the main staff of our life," some will call
No more nor no less,--than "the worst thing of all."--
See THE LADY'S _Address to Willy Cadogan in his Kitchen_, 4to. 1771.
Some Minute Philosopher has published an 8vo. pamphlet of 56 pages! on
the omnipotent "_virtues of a Crust of Bread eaten early in the morning
fasting!!_" We have no doubt it is an admirable Specific for that
grievous disorder of the Stomach called Hunger.
[75] Are very crude indigestible materials for a weak Stomach, unless
warmed by (No. 372);--with the assistance of which, and plenty of
Pepper, you may eat even _Cucumber_ with impunity.
[76] DR. RADCLIFFE, who succeeded better by speaking plainly to his
Patients, than some of his successors have by the most subtle
Politeness,--when asked what _was the best Remedy for Wind in the
Stomach_, replied, "That which will expel it quickest"--inquiring of the
Ventose subject whether the Wind passed _per Ascensum_, _vel per
Descensum_, observing,--that the former is the most aggravated state of
_Ventriloquism_, the latter a sign that the Bowels are recovering their
Healthful Tone.
[77] "My Stomach digests food so slowly, that I cannot study for five or
six hours after a very sparing dinner."--SPALLANZANI _on Digestion,
&c._, vol. i. p. 280.
"If the quantity of Food be given, its Quality will cause a difference
in the time of digesting; for instance, slimy and viscid meats are
longer in digesting in the Stomach than meats of a contrary nature; the
flesh of some young animals is not so soon digested as the flesh of the
same animals arrived at their full growth; thus _Veal_ and _Lamb_ are
not so soon digested as _Beef_ and _Mutton_.
"A man who took a vomit every second night for some months, observed,
that when he had taken CHICKEN for Dinner, he always threw it up
undigested, but never threw up any of his Food undigested when he made
his Dinner of _Beef_ or _Mutton_."--BRYAN ROBINSON _on the Food and
Discharges of Human Bodies_, 1748, p. 95.
Beef and Mutton seem to give less trouble to the Editor's Stomach than
any kind of Poultry.
The following is copied from Dr. Scudamore on Gout, 2d Edition, p. 509,
being some of the Experiments related by Mr. Astley Cooper in his
lecture delivered at the Royal College of Surgeons in 1814, which have
only been published in Dr. S.'s book, who informs us, they were
performed upon Dogs, with a view to ascertain the comparative solvent
power of the gastric juice upon different articles of food.
"_Experiment 5._
Food. Form. Quantity. Animal killed. Loss by
Digestion.
Cheese. Square. 100 pints. 4 hours. 76.
Mutton. ----- ----- ----- 65.
Pork. ----- ----- ----- 36.
Veal. ----- ----- ----- 15.
Beef. ----- ----- ----- 11.
"_Experiment 6._
Food. Form. Quantity. Animal killed. Loss by
Digestion.
Beef. Long & Nar. 100 pints. 2 hours. 0.
Rabbit. ----- ----- ----- 0.
Cod Fish. ----- ----- ----- 74.
"_Experiment 9._
Roast Veal Do. 100 pints. 2 hours. 7.
Boiled do. Do. ----- ----- 30.
[78] "Those who have _weak stomachs_, will be better able to digest
their food, if they take their meals at _regular hours_; because they
have both the stimulus of the aliment they take, and the periodical
habit to assist digestion."--DARWIN'S _Zoonomia_, vol. i. p. 454.
"We often tease and disorder our Stomachs by fasting for too long a
period, and when we have thus brought on what I may call a discontented
state of the organ, unfitting it for its office, we set to a meal, and
fill it to its utmost, regardless of its powers or its
feelings."--ABERNETHY'S _Surg. Obs._ p. 70.
[79] "A Philosopher being asked what was _the best time to dine_,
answered,--For a Rich man, when he could get a Stomach;--for a Poor man,
when he could get Meat."
[80] "When four hours be past, after Breakfast, a man may safely taste
his Dinner,--the most convenient time for dinner, is about _eleven of
the clocke_ before noone,--in 1570, this was the usual time of serving
it in the University of Oxford,--elsewhere about noone,--it commonly
consisted of boyled biefe, with pottage, bread and beere, and no
more,--the quantity of _biefe_ was in value an _halfe-penny_ for each
mouth,--they supped at five of the clocke in the Afternoon."--_Vide_
COGAN'S _Haven of Health_, 1584, p. 187.
_Early_ hours were as _Genteel_ in Dr. Cogan's time, as _late_ ones are
now, 1821.
"Perhaps none of our Old English customs have undergone so thorough a
change, as the hours of rising,--taking refreshment--the number of meals
per day--and the time of retiring to rest.
"The stately dames of Edward IV.'s Court, rose with the Lark,
despatched their dinner at eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and shortly
after eight were wrapt in slumber.--How would these reasonable people
(reasonable at least in this respect) be astonished could they but be
witnesses to the present distribution of time among the Children of
Fashion!--Would they not call the perverse conduct of those who _rise_
at one or two, _dine_ at eight,--and retire to bed when the morning is
unfolding all its glories, and nature putting on her most pleasing
aspect,--absolute insanity!!"--WARNER'S _Antiq. Cul._ p. 134.
"The modern hours of eating are got to an excess that is perfectly
ridiculous. Now, what do people get by this? If they make Dinner their
principal Meal, and do not wish to pall their appetite by eating before
it--they injure their health. Then in Winter they have two hours of
candlelight before Dinner, and in Summer they are at table during the
pleasantest part of the Day; and all this, to get a LONG MORNING,--_for
Idle People, to whom one would suppose the shortest morning would seem
too Long_."--PYE'S _Sketches_, 12mo. 1797, p. 174.
[81] Mr. Peck, Grocer, &c., No. 175, Strand, has printed a very
ingenious chart of the "_Geographie de la Gourmandise_."--"A Map of the
four quarters of the World, intended to show the different parts from
whence all the articles in his catalogue are imported."--See also "CARTE
GASTRONOMIQUE DE LA FRANCE," prefixed to that entertaining work, "COURS
GASTRONOMIQUE," 8vo. 1809.
[82] "A Wag, on being told it was the fashion to dine later and later
every day, said, He supposed it would end at last in not dining till
_to-morrow_!!"
[83] "It is at the _commencement of Decline_, _i. e._ about our 40th
year, that the Stomach begins to require peculiar care and precaution.
People who have been subject to Indigestions before, have them then more
frequent and more violent; and those who have never been so afflicted,
begin to suffer them from slight causes: a want of attention to which
too frequently leads to the destruction of the best constitutions,
especially of the studious, who neglect to take due exercise. The remedy
proposed is Ipecacuanha, in a dose that will not occasion any nausea;
but enough to excite such an increased action of the vermicular movement
of the stomach, that the phlegm may be separated and expelled from that
organ.
"The effects of it surpassed his most sanguine hopes: by the use of it,
notwithstanding he had naturally a delicate constitution, he weathered
the storms of the Revolution," &c., and lived to be 84.
The above is an extract from Dr. BUCHAN'S translation of Mr. DAUBENTON'S
_Observations on Indigestion_. This treatise brought Ipecacuanha
Lozenges into fashion, as the most easy and agreeable manner of taking
it: they contain about one-sixth of a grain, and are prepared and sold
by SAVORY and MOORE, Chemists, in Bond Street.
[84] Delicate people, who are accustomed to dine at a certain hour, on
certain food, &c., are generally deranged as often as they dine out, and
change the hour, &c.
The Editor has a patient who never Dines out without suffering severely
for several days after--not from over-eating or drinking, &c., but from
the change of Diet, and the time of taking it. His habit is to make a
hearty meal off one dish at Five o'clock, and drink with it some good
heartening home-brewed Beer, and two or three glasses of Wine--that has
not been kept till it has lost its best qualities.
[85] Dr. W. says: "When the Stomach is in a sound state, and Digestion
is properly performed, the spirits are good, and the Body is light and
easy; but when that organ is out of order, a languor, debility,
discontent, melancholy watchfulness, or troublesome dreams, the
nightmare, &c. are the consequences. I have often been seized with a
slight _Incubus_, attended with a faintness, as if the circulation was a
good deal obstructed, before I was fully asleep, which has made me get
up suddenly: while I lay awake I felt nothing of these symptoms, except
some degree of uneasiness about my stomach; but when I was just about to
fall asleep, they began to return again." "In this way I have gone on
for two or three hours or more, in the beginning of the night. At last,
I found that a dram of _Brandy_, after the first attack, kept me easy
the whole night," p. 312.
"When affected with uneasy sensation from wind, I have not only been
sensible of a general debility and flatness of spirits, but the
unexpected opening of a door, or any such trifling unforeseen accident,
has instantly occasioned an odd sensation about my heart, extending
itself to my head and arms, &c. At other times, when my stomach is in a
firmer state, I have no such feeling: at least, in a very small degree,
from causes which might be thought more apt to produce them. Fainting,
Tremors, Palpitations of the Heart, convulsive motions, and all those
disorders which are called nervous, &c. &c. are often owing more to the
infirm state of the first passages, than to any fault either in the
Brain or Heart," p. 132, &c.
Dr. Whytt died A.D. 1766, in his 52d year.
[86] "Physicians appear to be too strict and particular in their rules
of diet and regimen; too anxious attention to those rules hath often
hurt those who were well, and added unnecessarily to the distresses of
the sick.--Whether meat should be boiled or roasted, or dressed in any
other plain way, and what sort of vegetables should be eaten with it, I
never yet met with any person of common sense (except in an acute
illness) whom I did not think much fitter to choose for himself, than I
was to determine for him."--DR. HEBERDEN _on Diet_.
"When the Stomach is weak, it seems particularly necessary that our food
should be nutritive and easy of digestion.
"I may further observe, that its qualities should be adapted to the
feelings of the stomach.
"In proof of this proposition, numerous instances might be mentioned of
apparently unfit substances agreeing with the Stomach, being digested
and even quieting an irritable state of the stomach, merely because they
were suitable to its feelings. Instances might also be mentioned of
changes in Diet producing a tranquil and healthy state of stomach in
cases where medicines had been tried in vain."--ABERNETHY, _Surg. Obs._
p. 68.
[87] "_A Fool_, or a PHYSICIAN _at Forty_, is an adage containing more
truth than is commonly believed.--He who has not by that time learned to
observe the causes of self-disorder--shows little signs of wisdom; and
He who has carefully noted the things which create disorder in himself,
must by his own experience possess much knowledge, that a Physician at a
pop visit ought not to pretend to."--_Domestic Management_, 1813, p.
xxxvi.
[88] "GRILLUS, who, according to the doctrine of _Transmigration_, (as
_Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a BEAST, discourses how much
better he fed and lived then, than when he was turned to MAN again, as
knowing then what food was best and most proper for him, which
_Sarcophagists_ (flesh-eaters) in all this time were yet to
seek."--EVYLYN'S _Acetana_, 12mo. 1699, p. 86.
"Instinct than Reason makes more wholesome Meals."--YOUNG.
"My Appetite is in several things of itself happily enough accommodated
to the health of my Stomach; whatever I take against my liking does me
harm; but nothing hurts me that I eat with appetite and delight."--_Vide
honest_ MONTAIGNE'S _Essay on Experience_, book iii. chap. xiii.
"The Stomach gives information when the supplies have been expended, and
represents with great exactness the quantity and quality of whatever is
wanted in the present state of the machine, and, in proportion as it
meets with neglect, rises in its demand, and urges its petition with a
louder voice."--DR. WM. HUNTER'S _Introductory Lecture_, 4to. p. 81.
"Take Food in proportion to the quantity of nourishment contained in it,
of which the Stomach appears from Instinct to be capable of
judging."--J. HUNTER _on the Animal Economy_, 4to. p. 221.
"Prompted by Instinct's never erring power,
Each creature knows its proper aliment,
Directed, bounded by this power within,
Their cravings are well aimed; Voluptuous Man,
Is by superior faculties misled;
Misled from pleasure--even in quest of Joy."
ARMSTRONG'S _Art of Preserving Health_.
"Our stomach is, in general, a pretty good Judge of what is best for
it,--thousands have perished for being inattentive to its calls--for one
who has implicitly obeyed them."--DR. SMITH'S _Guide in Sickness_, 8vo.
p. 59.
"In every case wherein we wish to preserve strength, (as in most
chronical complaints) we should be extremely cautious in prescribing a
rigid regimen,--especially if it is intended to be long
continued."--"Things disagreeable to the palate, seldom digest well, or
contribute to the nourishment of the Body."--FALCONER _on Diet_, pp. 7,
and 8.
"What is most grateful to the Palate, sits most easy on the
Stomach."--ADAIR _on Diet_, p. 28.
"LONGINGS directed by the pure guidance of INSTINCT, and not arising
merely from opinion, may not only be satisfied with Impunity, but
generally be indulged in with advantage."--WITHERS _on the Abuse of
Medicine_, 8vo. p. 233.
[89] "As to the quality of food, although whatever is easy of digestion,
singly considered, deserves the preference, yet regard must be had to
the palate and to the appetite, because it is frequently found, that
what the Stomach earnestly covets, though of difficult digestion, does
nevertheless digest better than what is esteemed of easier digestion if
the Stomach nauseates it: I am of opinion the patient ought to eat only
of _one dish_ at a meal."--SYDENHAM _on Gout_.
"Every Animal but Man keeps to _one dish_--Herbs are the food of this
species--Fish of that--and Flesh of a third."--SPECTATOR, No. 95.
"Be content with _one dish_ at a meal, in the choice of that consult
your palate."--MANDEVILLE _on Hypochondriasis_, p. 316.
[90] "It is surprising how much the condition and disposition of the
Stomach and Intestines will vary in the same person at different
times."--WHYTT _on the Nerves_; p. 127.
[91] "Many people, to be sufficiently nourished, must be supplied with
food exceedingly stimulating."--STRUVE'S _Asthenology_, 8vo. 1801, p.
280.
[92] "Whosoever dreameth that no _Sick_ Man should be allured to meat,
by delightful and pleasant Sauces, seemeth as froward and fantastical as
He that would never whet his knife.
"Why hath nature brought forth such variety of Herbs, Roots, Spices, &c.
fit for nothing but Sauces, &c. but that by them, the Sick should be
allured to feed.
"Abstinence is as dangerous, as Fulness and Satiety is
inconvenient."--DR. MOFFETT _on Foods_, 12mo. 1746, p. 343.
[93] "This gentleman had so cold a Stomach, (saith _Suidas_,) that he
made a sheath for his Tongue, that he might swallow down his Pottage
scalding hot; yea, I myself have known a Shropshire Gentleman of the
like quality."--Dr. MUFFETT _on Food_, 4to. 1655, p. 287.
[94] "The Chyle appears to be of the same nature, from whatever aliment
it has been extracted; if the medical people in different countries were
questioned, each would probably approve of the diet used in their
own--and would find plausible arguments to prove its superiority, with
numerous and admirable examples among their countrymen in support of
their theory.
"An Englishman would probably be of opinion that wheat-bread, and a
large portion of animal food, gives the strongest and most substantial
nourishment.
"An Irishman, or a Scotsman, would probably maintain that a small
portion of animal food,--with plenty of potatoes and oatmeal, is far
better adapted to form a vigorous and hardy race. The Laplanders live
almost entirely upon Animal food--the Hindoos, Gentoos, &c. never taste
any thing but Vegetables."--MOORE'S _Mat. Med._ p. 70.
"In the course of a few years, the produce of several acres of land, a
number of large oxen, and many tuns of liquor, are consumed by one
individual; whilst he continues nearly the same, whether he drinks the
pure stream, or beverage the most skilfully compounded; whether he feeds
on a variety of articles produced from the animal and vegetable kingdom,
or confines himself to one particular substance; and whether his food is
prepared in the most simple manner, or by the most refined and
artificial modes that luxury has invented."--_Code of Health_, vol. i.
p. 402.