integrity and skill of the Wine-maker,--and upon the peculiar state of
the stomach of the Wine-drinker:--when my Stomach is not in Good
Temper,--it generally desires to have _Red Wine_,--but when in best
Health,--nothing affronts it more than to put _Port_ into it--and one of
the first symptoms of its coming into adjustment, is a wish for _White
Wine_.
One of the chief causes of that derangement of the Stomach, which
delicate and aged persons so constantly complain of after _Dining
out_--is the drinking of Wines, &c. which they are unused to.
_White_, deserve to be preferred to _Red Wines_,--because the latter
being harder pressed, and subjected to a stronger fermentation to
extract the colouring matter from the husks of the Grape, are more
loaded with feculence.
Of RED WINES, _Claret_ is the best; and it is to be lamented, that the
Duty imposed upon it is so great, that to moderate fortunes it amounts
to a prohibition--when we make this observation, we do not mean to
impeach the prudence which has induced those who no doubt best
understand the subject,--to determine that political necessity
imperatively decrees that the delightful and salubrious wines of
France--must be taxed twice as high as the coarse unwholesome wines of
Portugal.
Of the _White_ Wines, we believe that _Sherry_ is the most easy--and
_Madeira_ the most difficult to obtain genuine--most of the SWEET Wines
are as artificially compounded, as the Beers of this country; the
addition of Capillaire to Port wine, makes what is commonly called
_Tent_. _Mountain, Calcavella, &c._ are made up in the same manner.
For further Illustrations of this subject, see ACCUM _on Adulterations_,
2d Edition, 12mo. 1820.
_An Inquiry into the Effects of Fermented Liquors, by a Water-drinker_,
2d Edit. 1818.
SANDFORD'S _Remarks on Wine_. Worcester, 1799.
LETTSOM, _on the Effects of Hard Drinking_.
TROTTER, _on Drunkenness_, 1804.
ACCUM'S _Art of making English Wine_, 1820.
CARNELL, _on Family Wine Making_, 1814.
ACCUM, _on Brewing_, 1820.
RAWLINSON, _on Brewing in Small Quantities_,--printed for Johnson, 1807,
price 1s.; _and Home Brewed Ale_, printed for Robinson, 1804, price 2s.
_Facts Proving Water the best Beverage._ Printed by Smeeton, in St.
Martin's Lane.
_Manuel de Sommelier, par_ A. JULLIEN, Paris, 1817.
PEPTIC PRECEPTS.
"Suaviter in modo, sed fortiter in re."
Not one Constitution in a thousand, is so happily constructed or is
constantly in such perfect adjustment, that the operations of the
Abdominal Viscera (on which every other movement of the system depends)
proceed with healthful regularity.
The following hints will point out to the Reader, how to employ Art to
afford that assistance to Nature, which in Indisposition and Age, is so
often required, and will teach him to counteract in the most prompt and
agreeable manner--the effects of those accidental deviations from strict
Temperance,--which sometimes overcome the most abstemious
philosopher--when the seducing charms of Conviviality tempt him to
forego the prudent maxims of his cooler moments.
They will help those who have delicate Constitutions, to obtain their
fair share of Health and Strength,--and instruct the Weak, so to
economize the powers they have, that they may enjoy Life as well as the
Strong.
To humour that desire for the marvellous, which is so universal in
medical (as well as in other) matters,--the makers of _Aperient Pills_
generally select the most DRASTIC PURGATIVES, which operating
considerably in a dose of a few grains, excite admiration in the
Patient, and faith in their powers, in proportion as a small dose
produces a great effect,--who seldom considers how irritating such
materials must be,--and consequently how injurious to a Stomach in a
state of Debility, and perhaps deranged by indulging Appetite beyond the
bounds of moderation.
INDIGESTION will sometimes overtake the most experienced Epicure;--when
the gustatory nerves are in good humour, Hunger and Savoury Viands will
sometimes seduce the Tongue of a "_Grand Gourmand_" to betray the
interest of his Stomach[69] in spite of his Brains.
On such an unfortunate occasion,--whether the intestinal commotion be
excited by having eaten too much, or too strong food--lie down--have
your Tea early after Dinner--and drink it warm.
This is a hint to help the Invalid, whose digestion is so delicate, that
it is sometimes disordered by a Meal of the strictest Temperance. If the
anxiety, &c. about the Stomach does not speedily abate, apply the
"_Stomach Warmer_." This valuable companion to Aged and Gouty Subjects,
may be procured at No. 58, Haymarket.
A certain degree of Heat is absolutely necessary to excite and support a
regular process of Digestion;--when the Circulation is languid, and the
food difficult of solution, in Aged persons and Invalids,--_External
Heat_ will considerably assist Concoction, and the application of this
califacient concave will enable the Digestive organs to overcome
refractory materials,--and convert them into laudable Chyle.
Unless the Constitution is so confoundedly debilitated, that the
Circulation cannot run alone--_Abstinence_[70] is the
easiest--cheapest--and best cure for the disorders which arise from
_Indigestion_ or _Intemperance_. I do not mean what Celsus calls the
first degree of it, "when the sick man takes nothing," but the second,
"when he takes nothing but what he ought."
The Chylopoietic organs are uncomfortable when entirely
unoccupied,--when the Stomach is too tired to work, and too weak to be
employed on actual service,--it desires something to be introduced to
it, that will entertain it till it recovers its energy.
After INTEMPERATE FEASTING one day, let the food of the following day be
Liquid, or of such materials as are easy of solution.
Various expedients have been recommended for preventing and relieving
the disorders arising from too copious libations of "the Regal purple
Stream."
When a good fellow has been sacrificing rather too liberally at the
shrine of the Jolly God, the best remedy to help the Stomach to get rid
of its burthen, is to take for Supper some GRUEL, (No. 572, _see
Index_,) with half an ounce of Butter, and a teaspoonful of _Epsom Salt_
in it; or two or three _Peristaltic Persuaders_,--which some
Gastropholists take as a provocative to appetite, about an hour before
Dinner.
Some persons take as a "_sequitur_" a drachm of _Carbonate of Soda_.
Others a teaspoonful of _Calcined Magnesia_:--when immediate relief is
required, never administer this uncertain medicine, which, if the
Stomach has no Acid ready to dissolve it,--will remain inert; it must be
taken, only when _Heart-burn_ and symptoms of Acidity are manifest.
As a _Finale_ to the day of the Feast, or the _Overture_ of the day
after, take (No. 481*,) or two drachms of _Epsom Salt_ in half a pint of
_Beef Tea_,--or some _Tincture of Rhubarb_ in hot water,--the first
thing to be done, is to endeavour to get rid of the offending material.
A Breakfast of _Beef Tea_[71] (No. 563,) is an excellent
Restorative;--when _the Languor following Hard Drinking_ is very
distressing, indulge in the horizontal posture; (see _Siesta_, p. 94;)
nothing relieves it so effectually, or so soon cheers the Circulation,
and sets all right;--get an early Luncheon of restorative Broth or
Soup.
HARD DRINKING _is doubly debilitating, when pursued beyond the usual
hour of retiring to Rest._
Those devotees to the Bottle, who never suffer the orgies of Bacchus to
encroach on the time which Nature demands for Sleep,--escape with
impunity, many of the evils which soon--and irreparably--impair the
Health of the Midnight reveller.
A facetious observer of the inordinate degree in which some people will
indulge their Palate, to the gratification of which they sacrifice all
their other senses,--recommends such to have their Soup seasoned with a
tasteless purgative, as the Food of insane persons sometimes is, and so
prepare their bowels for the hard work they are going to give them!!
To let the Stomach have a holiday occasionally--_i. e._ a Liquid diet,
of Broth and Vegetable Soup, is one of the most agreeable and most
wholesome ways of restoring its Tone.
_If your Appetite[72] be languid_, take additional Exercise in a pure
open Air,--or Dine half an hour later than usual, and so give time for
the Gastric Juices to assemble in full force;--or dine upon Fish--or
_Chinese Soup_, _i. e._ Tea.
If these simple means are ineffectual,--the next step, is to produce
energetic vibration in the Alimentary tube, without exciting inordinate
action, or debilitating depletion; and to empty the Bowels, without
irritating them.
Sometimes _when the languor occasioned by Dyspepsia, &c. is extreme_,
the Torpor of the System becomes so tremendous--that no Stimulus will
help it, and the Heart feels as if it was tired of beating--a moderate
dose of a quickly operating Aperient, _i. e._ half an ounce of Tincture
of Rhubarb, and two drachms of Epsom Salts in a tumbler of hot
water--will speedily restore its wonted energy.
THE STOMACH is the centre of Sympathy;--if the most minute fibre of the
human frame be hurt, intelligence of the injury instantaneously
arrives;--and the Stomach is disturbed, in proportion to the importance
of the Member, and the degree in which it is offended.
If either the Body or the Mind be fatigued,--the Stomach invariably
sympathizes;--if the most robust do any thing too much, the Stomach is
soon affronted,--and does too little:--unless this mainspring of Health
be in perfect adjustment, the machinery of life will vibrate with
languor;--especially those parts which are naturally weak, or have been
injured by Accidents, &c. Constipation is increased in costive
habits--and Diarrhœa in such as are subject thereto--and all Chronic
complaints are exasperated, especially in persons past the age of 35
years.
Of the various helps to Science, none perhaps more rapidly facilitate
the acquirement of knowledge, than analogical reasoning; or illustrating
an Art we are ignorant of, by one we are acquainted with.
THE HUMAN FRAME may be compared to a Watch, of which the Heart is the
Mainspring--the Stomach the regulator,--and what we put into it, the Key
by which the machine is wound up;--_according to the
quantity,--quality,--and proper digestion of what we Eat[73] and Drink,
will be the pace of_ _the Pulse, and the action of the System in
general_:--when we observe a due proportion between the quantum of
Exercise and that of Excitement, all goes well.--If the machine be
disordered, the same expedients are employed for its re-adjustment, as
are used by the Watch-maker; it must be carefully cleaned, and
judiciously oiled.
Eating _Salads_ after Dinner,--and chilling the Stomach, and checking
the process of digestion by swilling cold _Soda Water_--we hold to be
other Vulgar Errors.
It is your superfluous SECOND COURSES,--and ridiculous variety of
Wines,--Liqueurs,--Ices, Desserts, &c.--which (are served up more to
gratify the pride of the Host, than the appetite of the Guests that)
_overcome the Stomach, and paralyze Digestion_, and seduce "Children of
larger Growth" to sacrifice the health and comfort of several days--for
the Baby-pleasure of tickling their tongue for a few minutes, with
Trifles and Custards!!
Most of those who have written on what--by a strange perversion of
language--are most non-naturally termed the non-naturals,--have merely
laid before the Public a nonsensical register of the peculiarities of
their own Palate, and the idiosyncracies of their own Constitution[74].
Some omnivorous Cormorants have such an ever-craving Appetite, that they
are raging with hunger as soon as they open their Eyes,--and bolt half a
dozen hard Eggs before they are well awake;--Others are so perfectly
restored by that "chief nourisher in Life's feast," Balmy Sleep, that
they do not think about Eating,--till they have been up and actively
employed for several hours.
The strong Food, which the strong action of strong bodies
requires--would soon destroy weak ones,--if the latter attempt to follow
the example of the former,--instead of feeling invigorated, their
Stomachs will be as oppressed, as a Porter is with a load that is too
heavy for him,--and, under the idea of swallowing what are called
strengthening nourishing things,--will very soon make themselves ready
for the Undertaker.
Some people seem to think, that the more plentifully they stuff
themselves, the better they must thrive, and the stronger they must
grow.
It is not the quantity that we swallow,--but that which is properly
digested, which nourishes us.
A Moderate Meal well digested, renders the body vigorous,--glutting it
with superfluity, (which is only turned into excrement instead of
aliment, and if not speedily evacuated,) not only oppresses the System,
but produces all sorts of Disorders.
Some are continually inviting _Indigestion_,--by eating _Water-cresses_,
or other undressed Vegetables[75], "to sweeten their Blood,"--or
_Oysters_ "to enrich it."--Others fancy their Dinner cannot digest till
they have closed the orifice of their Stomachs with a certain portion of
_Cheese_,--if the preceding Dinner has been a light one, a little bit of
Cheese after it may not do much harm, but its character for encouraging
concoction is undeserved,--there is not a more absurd Vulgar Error, than
the often quoted proverb, that
"Cheese is a surly Elf,
Digesting all things, but itself."
A Third never eats Goose, &c. without remembering that _Brandy_ or
_Cayenne_ is the Latin for it.
A much less portion of Stimulus is necessary after a hearty meal of
califactive materials, such as good Beef or Mutton--than after a
_maigre_ Dinner of Fish, &c.
Another _Vulgar Error_ in the school of Good Living, is, that "_Good
eating_ requires _Good drinking_."--_Good_ eating generally implies
_high_ seasoned Viands,--the savoury Herbs, and stimulating Spices with
which these _Haut-Gouts_ are sprinkled and stuffed, &c. are sufficient
to encourage the digestive faculties to work "_con amore_" without any
"_douceur_" of Vinous irrigation,--but many persons make it a rule,
after eating Pig, &c. to take a glass of _Liqueur_, or _Eau de Vie_,
&c.--or, as when used in this manner, it would be as properly called,
"_eau de mort_."
INDIGESTION, or, to use the term of the day, A BILIOUS ATTACK,--_as
often arises from over-exertion, or_ ANXIETY OF MIND,--as from
refractory Food; it frequently produces FLATULENCE[76], and flatulence
produces _Palpitation of the Heart_; which is most difficult to stop,
when it comes on about an hour or two after a Meal;--the Stomach seems
incapable of proceeding in its business, from being over-distended with
wind, which pressing on the Heart and larger vessels, obstructs the
Circulation:--as soon as this flatulence is dispelled, all goes well
again:--inflating the Lungs to the utmost, _i. e._ taking in as much
breath as you can, and holding it as long as you can, will sometimes act
as a counterbalance, and produce relief.
This is the first thing to do when this distressing Spasm attacks
you,--if it is not immediately checked; take a strong _Peppermint_, or
_Ginger Lozenge_, (see page 99,) sit,--or if possible lie down and
loosen all ligatures; the horizontal posture and perfect quiet are grand
Panaceas in this disorder;--if these do not soon settle it, drink some
stimulus: sometimes a teacupful of _Hot water_, with a teaspoonful of
common salt in it, will suffice,--or a couple of glasses of _Wine_,--or
one of _Brandy_ in one of hot water: either of these will generally soon
restore sufficient energy to the Stomach, to enable it to expel the
enemy that offends it, and set the circulation to work freely again.--If
these means are not immediately efficacious, take half an ounce of
_Tincture of Rhubarb_ in a quarter pint of hot water,--or three or four
_Peristaltic Persuaders_, with half a pint of hot water.
If this complaint comes on when the Bowels are costive,--they must be
put into motion as speedily as possible, by some of the means
recommended in the following pages.
It will sometimes come on during the collapsed state of the system,
from FASTING TOO LONG.
_Those who take no Food between an early_ BREAKFAST--_and a late_
DINNER,--for fear, as they term it, of spoiling the latter
meal,--generally complain of _Flatulence_,--_Languor_, _Lowness of
Spirits_, &c. (and those who are troubled by a _Cough_, have often a
paroxysm of it,) for the hour or more before Dinner;--and _Heartburn_,
&c. after it:--the former arising from fasting too long, the latter from
indulging an Appetite so over excited, that a Baron of Beef, a Pail of
Port Wine, and a Tubful of Tea, will hardly satisfy it.
The languor of _Inanition_, and the fever of _Repletion_, may be easily
avoided by eating a LUNCHEON,--solid and nutritive, in proportion as the
DINNER is protracted, and the activity of the Exercise to be taken in
the mean-time.
The oftener you eat, the less ought to be eaten at a time; and the less
you eat at a time, the oftener you ought to eat:--_a weak_ _Stomach_
has a much better chance of digesting two light meals, than one heavy
one.
The Stomach should be allowed time to empty itself, before we fill it
again.
There is not only a considerable difference in the digestibility of
various Foods,--but also of the time required by different Stomachs to
digest them--the sign of which, is the return of Appetite.
The digestion of Aliment is perfect, and quickly performed, in
proportion to the keenness of our Appetite at the time of taking
it--more or less perfect Mastication--and the vigorous state of the
organs of Digestion,--as a general rule, _the interval of Fasting_
should seldom be less than three, nor more than five
hours[77],--Digestion being generally completed within that time.
The Fashion of A.D. 1820 has introduced a much longer fast ("a windy
recreation," as father Paul assures the lay brother) than even the
elasticity of robust Health can endure, without distressing the
adjustment of the System,--and creating such an over-excited appetite,
that the Stomach does not feel it has had enough,--till it finds that it
has been crammed too much[78].
"When Hunger[79] calls, obey, nor often wait
Till hunger sharpen to corrosive pain;
For the keen appetite will feast beyond
What nature well can bear."
This important truth--we would most strongly press on the consideration
of Those who attend our COURTS OF LAW, and PARLIAMENT.
Many industrious Professional men, in order to add a few pounds to their
Income--in a few years are quite worn out--from their digestive
faculties being continually disordered and fretted for want of _regular_
supplies of _Food_; and sufficient _Sleep_.
An Egg boiled in the shell for five minutes, or _Les Tablettes de
Bouillon_ (No. 252), and a bit of Bread, is a convenient provision
against the former--_the Siesta_ (see page 94) is the best Antidote for
the latter.
The sensation of _Hunger_ arises from the Gastric juices acting upon the
coats of the Stomach--how injurious it must be to fast so long, that by
neglecting to supply it with some alimentary substance which this fluid
was formed to dissolve,--the Stomach becomes in danger of being digested
itself!!!
Those who feel a gnawing, as they call it, in their Stomach, should not
wait till the stated hour of dinner, but eat a little forthwith, that
the Stomach may have something to work upon.
By _too long Fasting_, Wind accumulates in the Stomach, especially of
those who have passed the meridian of Life--and produces a distressing
Flatulence--Languor--Faintness--Giddiness--Palpitation of the Heart, &c.
If the Morning has been occupied by anxiety in Business,--or the Mind or
Body is fatigued by over-exertion--these symptoms will sometimes come
on about an hour or two before the usual time of Dining,--well
masticating a bit of Biscuit, and letting a strong Peppermint Lozenge
(see page 99) dissolve in the mouth as soon as you feel the first
symptoms of Flatulence,--will often pacify the Stomach, and prevent the
increase of these complaints.
DR. WHYTT, whose observations on _Nervous Disorders_, (like this work),
are valuable, inasmuch as they are the authentic narrative of his own
Experience--says, page 344, "When my Stomach has been weak, after I have
been indisposed, I have often found myself much better for a glass of
Claret and a bit of bread, an hour or more before Dinner, and I have
ordered it in the same way to others, and again in the evening, an hour
or more before Supper, with advantage."
There is no doubt of the propriety of DR. W.'s prescription, the
Editor's own feelings bear witness to it. For those who are just
recovering from Diseases which have left them in a state of great
Debility, a glass of Wine and a bit of Bread,--or a cup of good _Beef
Tea_, (see page 96) are perhaps as good TONICS as any,--they not only
remove Languor, but at the same time furnish Nutriment.
We have known weak Stomachs, when kept fasting beyond the time they
expected,--become so exhausted--they would refuse to receive any solid
Food,--until restored to good temper,--and wound up by some Wine, or
other stimulus--as Instinct proposed.
Feeble Persons, who are subject to such sudden attacks, should always
travel armed with a _Pocket Pistol_ charged with a couple of glasses of
White Wine, or, "_Veritable Eau de Vie_,"--a Biscuit, and some strong
Peppermint or Ginger Lozenges, or see "_Tablettes de Bouillon_" (No.
252):--when their Stomach is uneasy from emptiness, &c. these crutches
will support the Circulation,--and considerably diminish, and sometimes
entirely prevent the distressing effects which Invalids suffer from too
long a Fast[80].
What a contrast there is between the materials of the morning meal A.D.
1550, when Queen Elizabeth's Maids of Honour began the day with a _Round
of Beef_,--or a _Red Herring_, and a _flaggon of Ale_--and in 1821, when
the Sportsman, and even the day-Labourer, breakfast on what Cooks call
"_Chinese Soup_," i. e. Tea.
SWIFT has jocosely observed, such is the extent of modern Epicurism,
that "_the World[81] must be encompassed--before a Washerwoman can sit
down to Breakfast_," _i. e._ by a voyage to the East for Tea, and to the
West for Sugar.
In THE NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSEHOLD BOOK for 1512, we are informed that "_a
Thousand Pounds_ was the sum annually expended in Housekeeping,--this
_maintained_ 166 _Persons_,--and the Wheat was then 5_s._ 8_d._ per
quarter.
"The Family rose at six in the morning,--my Lord and my Lady had set on
their Table for BREAKFAST, _at Seven o'clock_ in the morning,
A quart of Beer,
A quart of Wine,
Two pieces of Salt Fish,
Half a dozen Red Herrings,
Four White ones, and
A Dish of Sprats!!!
"_They_ DINED _at Ten_--SUPPED _at Four_ in the afternoon,--The Gates
were all shut at nine, and no further ingress or egress permitted."--See
pages 314 and 318.
But now, A.D. 1821,
"The Gentleman who dines the latest
Is, in our Street, esteemed the greatest:
But surely greater than them all,
Is he who never Dines[82] at all."
DINNERS at _Night_,
AND
SUPPERS in the _Morning_,
A few Cautionary Hints to Modern Fashionables.--