CHAPTER XIX.

PREPARING FOR COVERING.

Nearly all modern books are bound with hollow backs, except where the

books are sewn for flexible work or otherwise meant to have tight backs.

Much of the paper used at the present day is so hard, that the binder

is almost forced to make a hollow back, in order that the book may open.

The head-band is first set with glue, if worked, by gluing the head and

tail, and with a folder the head-band is made to take the same form

as the back. This is to be done by holding the book in the left hand

with its back on the press, then a pointed folder held in the right

hand is run round the beading two or three times to form it; the silk

on the back is then rubbed down as much as possible to make all level

and even, and the book is allowed to dry. When dry it is put into the

lying press to hold it, and the back is well glued all over; some

paper, usually brown, is now taken, the same length as the book, put

on the back, and rubbed down well with a thick folder: a good sized

bone from the ribs of beef is as good as anything. The overplus of the

paper is now to be cut away from the back, except the part projecting

head and tail. A second coat of glue is now put on the top of the brown

paper and another piece is put on that, but not quite up to the edge on

the left hand side. When this is well rubbed down it is folded evenly

from the edge on the right side over to the left, the small amount of

glued space left will be found sufficient to hold it down; the top is

again glued |88| and again folded over from left to right, and cut

off level by folding it back and running a sharp knife down the fold.

This is what is generally termed “two on and two off,” being of course

two thicknesses of paper on the back and two for the hollow; but thin

or small books need only have one on the back and two for the hollow.

Thick or large books should have more paper used in proportion to their

size. Books that have been over-cast in the sewing should have rather

a strong lining-up, so that there be not such a strain when the book

is opened. When the whole is dry, the overplus of the paper, head and

tail, is to be cut off close to the head-band.

I need hardly say that the better the paper used the more easy will be

the working of it. Old writing or copy-book paper will be found to be

as good as any, but good brown paper is, as I have said before, mostly

used.

The book is now ready for putting the bands on. These are prepared

beforehand by sticking with glue two or three pieces of leather

together or on a piece of paper, well pressing it, and then allowing

it to dry under pressure. The paper must then be glued twice, allowing

each coat to dry before gluing again. It should then be put on one side

for future use, and when wanted, the proper thickness is chosen and

cut into strips of a width to correspond with the size of the book.

The book is now to be marked up, five bands being the number generally

used, leaving the tail a little longer than the other portions. The

strips of band are then to be moistened with a little hot water to

cause the glue upon the paper to melt. Each piece is then to be

fixed upon the back just under the holes made with the compasses in

marking-up. This will be found to be a far better plan than to first

cut the strips and then to glue them. By the latter plan the glue is

liable to spread upon the side, where it is not wanted, and if the book

has to be covered with light calf, it will certainly be stained black:

|89| so the coverer must be careful that _all glue is removed_ from

the back and sides before he attempts to cover any of his books with

calf. It is rather provoking to find some favourite colour when dry,

having a tortoiseshell appearance, which no amount of washing will take

out. When dry the ends of the bands are to be cut off with a _bevel_,

and a little piece of the boards from the corners nearest the back also

taken off on the bevel, that there may not be a sharp point to fret

through the leather when the book is opened. This is also necessary

so that the head-band may be properly set. A sharp knife should be

inserted between the hollow and should separate it from the back at

head and tail on each side so far as to allow the leather to be turned

in. Morocco may have the back glued, as it will not show through, and

will facilitate the adhesion of the leather.

_Flexible Work._—This class of work is not lined up. The leather

is fastened directly upon the book; the head-band is set as before

explained, and held tight by gluing a piece of fine linen against it,

and when quite dry, the overplus is to be cut away, and the back made

quite smooth. The bands are then knocked up gently with a blunt chisel

to make them perfectly straight, being first damped and made soft with

a little paste to facilitate the working and to prevent the thread from

being cut. Any holes caused by sawing-in, in previous binding, must be

filled up with a piece of frayed cord, pasted. Any holes thus filled up

must be made quite smooth when dry, as the least unevenness will show

when the book is covered.

In “throw up” backs, or in “flexible not to show,” a piece of thin

linen (muslin) or staff called _mull_ is glued on the back first, and

one piece of paper on the top. For the hollow, three, four, or even

five pieces are stuck one on the other, so that it may be firm; whilst

the book itself will be as if it had a flexible back. The bands, if

any, are then |90| to be fastened on, and the corners of the boards

cut off. It is then ready for covering. “Mock flexible” has generally

one piece of paper glued on the back, and when marked-up, the bands are

put on as before, and the book covered.

The Art of Bookbinding: A practical treatise, with plates and diagrams · 第 19 / 23 章