OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA.--CONCLUSION.
There still remain a considerable number of the explorers of Western
Australia, whose achievements, though inferior to the foregoing, would
have called for particular notice had this been an exhaustive work. A
very brief outline of the journeys of the most prominent is all that can
be attempted here. We shall begin with Captain, afterwards Sir George,
Grey, so well known in later times as a New Zealand statesman. From 1837
to 1840 he was occupied with two expeditions for the exploration of the
country lying between the coast and the first range. Both journeys were
exceedingly hazardous--none more so in this department of history.
During the first Prince Regent's River was explored; but the most
important result was the discovery of the River Glenelg, which was
described as one of the finest in Australia. The second expedition was
directed to Shark's Bay, which was reached in February, 1839. The most
important discovery during this journey was the River Gascoyne. The
expedition was soon overtaken by terrible misfortunes, which compelled
the party to make for Swan River by the quickest route. The first
attempt was made in a small boat, which got no further than Gantheaume
Bay, where it was dashed to pieces on the beach. To save their lives
they had now to walk on foot along an inhospitable coast for 300 miles,
with no more provisions than twenty pounds of flour and one pound of
pork to each man. Grey struggled along and gave a heroic example to the
men under his charge. When he arrived at Perth he looked like a spectre,
and his most intimate friends did not know him. He has himself told us
what was the secret of his moral strength:--"It may be asked," he said,
"if, during such a trying period, I did not seek from religion that
consolation which it is sure to afford. My answer is, yes; and I further
feel assured that but for the support I derived from prayer and frequent
perusal of the Scriptures, I should never have been able to have borne
myself in such a manner as to have maintained discipline and confidence
among the rest of the party; nor in my sufferings did I ever lose the
consolation derived from a firm reliance upon the goodness of
Providence. It is only those who go forth into perils and dangers,
amidst which human foresight and strength can but little avail, and who
find themselves day after day protected by an unseen influence, and ever
and anon snatched from the very jaws of destruction by a power which is
not of this world, who can at all estimate the knowledge of one's own
weakness and littleness, and the firm reliance and trust upon the
goodness of the Creator which the human heart is capable of feeling."
The next in order is Mr. J. S. Roe, Surveyor-General of Western
Australia. With a party of six men, eleven horses, and four months'
provisions, he started from York in September, 1848, for the southern
part of the colony. Leaving the last stations of the River Avon, he went
S. 1/2 S. in a direction which had not yet been explored. In a short
time he got into a poor country, which contained the heads of the Avon,
the Williams, the Arthur, and other rivers. In 45 miles further he came
to the Pallinup River, the last water which had been crossed by Eyre on
his journey along the Great Bight. He followed it to the neighbourhood
of Cape Riche, the latter part of this stage being through a
well-grassed country. Here a squatting station was found, and a
much-needed rest obtained. The next effort was to make the Bremer Range.
In the intervening part, a river, the Jeeramungup, was discovered in a
good tract of country, which was again succeeded by poor land. The
Bremer Range was reached by the 3rd November. There was a hard journey
thence to the Russell Range, which was near Eyre's country, and of the
same description. The coast was reached opposite the Recherche
Archipelago. Roe had now travelled 1,000 miles from Swan River, and
found it necessary to return, and in doing so kept very much to Eyre's
track as far as Cape Riche. The most important result of this journey
was the discovery of several seams of coal. The return to Perth was made
by way of the Pallinup River. The party had been absent 149 days, and
travelled 1,800 miles.
The third explorer who shall be briefly noticed is Mr. R. Austin, who
was Assistant Surveyor-General. He was despatched by the Government to
search for gold in the country north and east of the settled districts.
The party consisted of ten men, twenty-seven horses, and 120 days'
provisions. By the 10th of July, 1854, they had left the head of Swan
River, and entered on a wretchedly poor country, in which all the bushes
were dead. Another fifty miles' travel brought them to a table-land with
some high mountains, the most conspicuous of which received the name of
Mt. Kenneth. Soon after a severe mishap befell the expedition. The
horses having eaten a poisonous plant, twenty-four died within a few
hours, leaving the explorers in a very helpless condition. They pushed
on, nevertheless, and displayed an admirable perseverance. On the 24th
of August they reached a magnetic hill, which was called Mt. Magnet, and
returned for rest to Recruit Flat. The country next traversed lay
between the Great Salt Lake and West Mt. Magnet, dry, rough, and stony
throughout. One curious discovery was a cave with life-like figures of
animals drawn by the aborigines. Some similar exhibitions of savage art
had previously been discovered by other explorers in the north and west.
The party came again to poisonous bushes, and the horses had to be
watched night and day. Thence, taking a westward course, they got within
fifty miles of Shark's Bay, when want of food compelled them to retreat
to the Geraldine mines on the Murchison River. Here the party broke up,
some returning to Perth by sea and the rest overland. The expedition
failed in its principal object; nor was it in other respects much of a
success.
It would be unpardonable to close this list without mention of Mr. F. T.
Gregory's services in the exploration of West Australia. In April, 1858,
he led an expedition from the Geraldine mines to examine the country
between the Gascoyne River and Mt. Murchison. This effort was attended
with much success. At least a million acres of good land were
discovered--quite a Godsend for this colony, which is so rich in
deserts. The principal places discovered and named were Mt. Nairn,
Lockyer Range, Lyons River, the Alma, and Mt. Hall.
* * * * *
It is but right to add that the exploration of the interior has been
largely indebted to private enterprise, of which there is no particular
record. The pioneer squatters, in search of "fresh fields and pastures
new," have not been afraid to invade unknown territories, nor have they
gone without their reward. When a fine patch of country has been
discovered they have usually been quite willing to sacrifice their merit
as explorers to the caresses of private fortune, being mindful, perhaps,
of the old proverb which tells us "the crow would have more to eat if he
were less noisy over his food." The same cause has been helped on, also,
by the search for gold, than which nothing will entice man further from
home, or collect them in greater crowds. In this way much available
country has lately been opened up in the Kimberley district of Western
Australia, and the process is still going on, with many promising
prospects. It is extremely probable that this northern region will soon
be reckoned one of that colony's most valuable possessions, both in the
squatting and the mining interests.
As the combined result of all the foregoing agencies, Australia has
virtually ceased to be an unknown land by the close of the first century
of our history. Even the great desert of Western Australia, real or
supposed, has been crossed again and again, while lesser enterprises,
issuing from all sides, have carried the fringe of the known territory
further and further inland. Even yet the spirit of exploration keeps
awake, and refuses to rest so long as a patch of the interior remains to
be examined. While these sheets are passing through the press an
exploring party, supported again by Adelaide, are preparing for the
interior, in order to wrest from its grasp such secrets as it may yet
retain.
It is pleasing to observe how a better acquaintance with Australia, both
in the way of discovery and settlement, is surely leading on to the
belief that it will yet be the home of a numerous population. For a long
period it was reckoned unfit to be the habitation of civilized man,
except along the seaboards. The want of water, and continuous deserts,
were supposed to have placed the interior beyond the pale of
settlement. But experience has already revealed a system of
compensations by which this hasty judgment has come to be reversed, and
the back country settled by a thriving population. There are deserts,
indeed, in which one might search in vain for a blade of grass, but they
contain many patches of nutritious shrubs, which not only keep alive,
but even fatten, stock. Water, too, is scarce, but, by another of these
admirable compensations, it is capable of being stored in any quantity,
and for any length of time, without becoming putrid--an advantage
unknown to the home countries. The rainfall, moreover, is very scant
--perhaps not more than seven inches per annum in the far interior--but
then the recent borings with the diamond drill have shown that an
abundant supply may be obtained from subterranean sources. The latest
announcement made to us, now standing on the threshold of the centennial
year, is the most encouraging of all. By the ticking of the telegraph we
learn that an experiment at Barcaldine, in Queensland, has brought to
the surface of the bore a daily discharge of something approaching to
100,000 gallons of water fit for all purposes. Experience is ever
revealing new relations of material adaptability. There is a sympathy
between a country and its inhabitants, which may have a deeper
foundation than the fancy of the poet. The land and the people are the
complements of one another. "God made the earth to be inhabited," and
there is now no fear of Australia being an exception to the rule.
INDEX.
Aborigines, 67, 79, 88, 103, 106, 123, 125, 127, 128, 136, 140, 147,
149, 150, 162, 179, 186, 191
Abundance, Mt., 160, 161
Adelaide, 97 River, 23, 207
Albany, Port, 145, 149
Albert R., 23, 182, 193
Alexandrina, L., 82
Alice R., 143
Amadeus, L., 230
Arnheim B., 18
Austin, Mr. R., 240
Australia, why so called, 13 Western, 97 Crossing, 209, 210 Centre of,
197, 201
_Australis, Calamus_, 146
Balonne R., 138
Barcoo R., 95, 143
Bass's Discoveries, 6-19 Strait, 11, 12
Bathurst, Plains of, 30, 67-70 Laid out, 36
Batman, John, 126
Baudin, 15
Belyando R., 142
Bight, Great Australian, 99-101, 221
Blacks--_see_ Aborigines
Blaxland, Gregory, 28
Blue Mts., 25-33 Unsuccessful attempt to cross, 25-27 Crossed, 28-33
Bogan R., 71, 119-121
Botany B., 1
Bottle Trees, 139
Bourke, Fort, 121
Bridge, St. George's, 138
Brisbane R., 57
Broken B., 5
Burdekin R., 166
Burke, R. O'Hara, 168 and Wills, 169-181
Byng, Mt., 134
Camels, 169, 213, 215, 218
Campaspe R., 134
Carpentaria, 135, 193 Gulf of, 18, 173, 189
Castlereagh R., 42, 73
Condamine R., 154
Clark, George, _alias_ "George the Barber," 111
Coal, Discovery of, 239
Cogoon R., 139
Convicts, 135
Cook, Capt., 1-3
Cooper's Ck., 93
Creek, Chambers's, 199 Attack, 202
Cunningham, Allan, 53-65 Richard, 119-120 Gap, 63
Curtis B., 17
Danger Point, 2
Darling Downs, 60-61 R., 71, 72, 80, 122, 137
Darwin, Port, 209
Dawson R., 154
Depôt Glen, 87
Desert, Gibson's, 233-234
Disappointment, Mt., 51
Droughts, 73, 74, 87
Eden, a new, 130
Encounter Bay, 15
_Endeavour_, ship, 1, 2 R., 2
Essington, Port, 221
Eucla, Port, 221
Euryalean Scrub, 39
Evans, Surveyor, 34-36
Eyre, E. J., 85, 96-119 Creek, 90
Falls, Alice, 232
Fawkner, J. P., 126
Farmer's Ck., 32
Finke, Mt., 196, 197
Fish R., 35
Fitzmaurice R., 23, 164
Fitzroy Downs, 139, 159
Fleet, First, 4
Flinders' Discoveries, 6-19 R., 22, 23, 191, 193
Floods, Sudden, 137
Forrest, Hon. John, 219-228
Foxes, Flying, 156
Garden, Sydney Botanic, 63-64
George's R., 6
Giles, Ernest, 228-276
Gipps, Sir George, 153
Gosse, Mr., 225
Glenelg R., 132
Grampians, 132
Gregory, A. C., 163-166
Grey, Sir George, 237, 238
Hacking, Port, 7
Harris, Mt., 69
Hawkesbury R., 5
Hely, Hovenden, 161, 162
Henty, Edward, 125, 133
Hicks, Point, 1
Hastings R., 43
Hopeless, Mt., 177
Horses Poisoned, 240
Hovell, Capt., 47-52
Howitt, Alfred, 183-185
Hume, Hamilton, 46-52
Illawarra, 7
Iramoo Downs, 52
Isaacs, R., 155
Jackson, Port, 2
Jervis B., 8
Kangaroo Island, 14 Grass, 129 Rats, 155
Karaula R., 116
Kennedy, E. B., 135, 139, 144, 151
Kimberley, 242
Kindur R., 112
King, Governor, 16 Admiral, 19-23 Explorer, 171 Found with the blacks,
184
Kites, Plague of, 155
Kyte, Ambrose, 167
Lachlan R., 35, 38-40 Swamps, 39
Lakes, 131, 132, 185, 186
Landsborough, 182, 192, 193
Lang, Mt., 155
Lawson, William, 28
Leeuwin, Cape, 14
Leichhardt, 152-162, 220, 221
Liverpool Plains, 43
Loddon R., 129
Logan R., 61
Lynd R., 155
Macedon, Mt., 134
Mackenzie R., 154
Macquarie R., 35, 41, 42 Port, 43 Swamps, 41, 42, 70
Manning R., 44
Maranoa R., 139
Massacre, L., 186
M'Kinlay, John, 182, 185-189
Melbourne, 16
Menindie, 169
Mirage, 196
Mitchell, Sir Thomas, 80, 110-143
Moreton B., 154
Mosquitoes, 207
Murchison R., 224
Murrumbidgee R., 48, 75
Murray R., 50, 77-84, 128, 134
Namoi R., 43, 115
Nardoo, 178, 186
New South Wales, why so called, 3 Foundation of, 4
Nive R., 141
Nivelle R., 141
Nogoa R., 141
Norman R., 190, 191 Captain, 182, 191
Oakover R., 215
Overlanding, 96
Oxley, John, 37-44, 69 His Journal, 38 His unfortunate prediction, 45
Palms, Glen of, 229
Pandora's Pass, 56
Petrel, Sooty, 10
Pillar, Chambers's, 199
Phillip, Port, 16
Plant, Poisonous, 240
Portland B., 133
Promise, Plains of, 23
Rawlinson Range, 233
Reef, Great Barrier, 17
Religion, Powerful support of, 238
Roe, J. S., 238, 239
Roper R., 206, 207
Rossiter B., 107
Rufus R., why so called, 82
Saltbush, 136, 137
Sea, Inland, supposed existence of, 42, 201
Seaview, Mt., 43
Shoalhaven, 8
Snowy Mts., 49
Soil, Poor, accounted for, 81
Sound, King George's, 107
"Spring" Country, 198
Squatters, Pioneer, 136, 159
Stapylton, L., 127
Stephens, Port, 44
Stokes, Capt., 23
Stony Desert, 90, 93, 94, 188
Strzelecki's Ck., 93
Stuart, John M'Douall, 194-209 Central Mt., 201
Sturt, Capt., 66-95, 166 Ck., 164 Plains, 204
Sunday Services, 226 Dinner, 226
Sydney Harbour, 4
Telegraph, Transcontinental, 209
Termination, L., 164
Territory, Northern, 209
Torrens, L., 98, 99, 195
Transportation, 3
Tumut R., 49
Twofold B., 9
Van Diemen's Land (Tasmania) circumnavigated, 10-12
Victoria, 125-135 R., 23, 143, 163, 164, 202
Walker, Frederick, 182, 190-192
Warrego R., 141
Warburton, Colonel, 210-218
Warning, Mt., 2
Water, How found, 102, 103 Searching for, 213 Subterranean, 243 Caught
during shower by tarpaulin, 213
Weld, Governor, 224 Springs, 224
Wellington Valley, 40
Wells, Native, 213
Wentworth, W. C., 28
Western Port, 9
Wickham, Capt., 23
William, Mt., 131
Wills, W., 168, 169
Wimmera R., 131
Yass Plains, 47
York, Cape, 145
George Robertson and Co., Printers, Melbourne and Sydney.
End of Project Gutenberg's The Australian Explorers, by George Grimm