THE
AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS
THEIR
LABOURS, PERILS, AND ACHIEVEMENTS
BEING A NARRATIVE OF DISCOVERY FROM THE LANDING OF CAPTAIN COOK TO THE
CENTENNIAL YEAR
BY
GEORGE GRIMM, M.A.
MINISTER OF ST. PAUL'S, BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY; AND TUTOR IN APOLOGETICS
AND SYSTEMATIC THEOLOGY TO THE PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH OF NEW SOUTH WALES
GEORGE ROBERTSON & COMPANY MELBOURNE AND SYDNEY 1888
TO THE MEMORY
OF THE LATE
JOHN DUNMORE LANG, D.D.
IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE
OF MUCH PLEASANT INTERCOURSE
THIS VOLUME IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED
PREFACE.
The story of the exploration of Australia is one which we cannot
willingly let die. There are many reasons for keeping alive the
remembrance of such heroic deeds. It is due to the memory of those men
who took their lives in their hands, and, in many cases, laid their
bones in the desert; it is an act of gratitude on our part, who have
entered on their labours; and it is a kind of information indispensable
to every Australian who desires to know the history of his country. And
yet there is great danger of their being practically forgotten. The time
when the harvest of discovery was reaped has faded into the past, and a
generation is growing up not well informed on these most interesting
adventures and achievements. Nor are the sources of information easily
obtainable by those who purposely put themselves on the search. The
journals of the explorers, never too plentiful, have now become scarce.
They are only occasionally met with in private hands, where they are,
for good reasons, held as a treasure. A considerable number of these
works are to be found in the Sydney School of Arts, but they have been
withdrawn from circulation, and are now kept for special reference only,
in a glass case, under lock and key. The Government Library contains
the best collection extant, but even there it has been deemed necessary
to adopt restrictive regulations, with the view of giving the books a
longer lease of existence. This scarcity of the sources of information,
and these restrictions which fence in the few that remain, may be
accepted as a sufficient plea for the effort here made to popularize the
knowledge they contain. But I would warn the reader not to expect from
this small volume what it does not profess to give. In no sense does it
pretend to be elaborate or exhaustive. I have had to study brevity for
another reason than its being the soul of wit. It would have been a
pleasant task to write long descriptions of Australian scenery, and to
follow the explorers even into the by-paths of their journeys; but the
result would have been just what I have had to avoid--a bulky volume.
Yet, such as it is, I hope the book will be found acceptable to the man
of business, who can neither afford to be ignorant of this subject nor
find time to enter into its minutiæ; to the youth of our country, who
cannot obtain access to the original sources; and to the general reader,
who desires to be told in simple, artless language the main outlines of
this fascinating story.
Having written on a subject in no way connected with my profession, I
may be allowed to say, in a word, how my thoughts came to be diverted
into this channel. Probably they would never have been so directed to
any great extent had it not happened that the path of duty led me into
the tracks of several of the most eminent explorers. In earlier days it
was my lot to travel, in the service of the Gospel, most extensively in
the interior of Queensland, principally on the lines of the Condamine,
the Dawson, the Balonne, the Maranoa, and the Warrego rivers. In these
situations it was natural to wish for information as to the way and
manner in which those pastoral regions had been opened up for
settlement. Not much was to be gleaned from the occupants themselves;
but it fortunately happened that Sir Thomas Mitchell's journal fell into
my hands when amidst the scenes of one of his most splendid discoveries,
the Fitzroy Downs, and almost under the shadow of his well-named Mount
Abundance. The taste then obtained was sufficient to whet the appetite
for more, and the prosecution of this favourite study has issued in what
I may be permitted to call a tolerable acquaintance with the exploration
of Australia. About seven or eight years ago I wrote a series of papers
on this subject for the _Sydney Mail_, bringing the history down to the
expedition of Burke and Wills. The proprietors of that journal have
kindly permitted me to make use of my former articles in the preparation
of this work; but of this permission, for which I would here record my
thanks, I have availed myself only to a moderate extent. The whole has
been rewritten, some inadvertencies have been corrected, and the history
in its main outlines brought down to the present time. Although my
principal concern has been with the land explorers, I have, in the
introduction, given a sketch of the discoveries made on our coasts by
the navigators. So much was necessary to the completeness of my plan,
and also because the achievements of both to some extent dovetail into
one another. In the arrangement of the succeeding chapters I have
followed the chronological order, except in a very few cases where a
more important principle of classification will be obvious to the
reader.
As regards authorities, I have spared no pains to get at the original
sources of information, and have succeeded in all but a few unimportant
exceptions. In these cases I have derived some help from interviews with
surviving relatives of the explorers and several very old colonists. I
have also been indebted for further light to works of acknowledged merit
which have been for some time before the public--notably, to the Rev. J.
E. Tenison Woods's "Exploration of Australia," and to Mr. Howitt's
"Discoveries in Australia, Tasmania, and New Zealand." My best
acknowledgments are also due to the Honourable P. G. King, Esq., M.L.C.,
for the excellent notes he has written on the discoveries made by his
distinguished father, Admiral King.
That this small volume may be found to afford pleasant and profitable
reading is the earnest wish of
THE AUTHOR.
BALMAIN WEST, SYDNEY, _18th May, 1888_.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION--THE AUSTRALIAN NAVIGATORS 1
CHAPTER I.
THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 25
CHAPTER II.
EVANS'S DISCOVERY OF THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 34
CHAPTER III.
OXLEY'S EXPEDITION TO THE LACHLAN AND MACQUARIE 37
CHAPTER IV.
HUME AND HOVELL'S EXPEDITION FROM LAKE GEORGE TO PORT PHILLIP 45
CHAPTER V.
ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S EXPLORATIONS 53
CHAPTER VI.
CAPTAIN STURT'S THREE EXPEDITIONS 66
CHAPTER VII.
EYRE'S ADVENTUROUS JOURNEY ALONG THE GREAT AUSTRALIAN BIGHT 96
CHAPTER VIII.
SIR THOMAS MITCHELL'S FOUR EXPEDITIONS 110
CHAPTER IX.
KENNEDY'S DISASTROUS EXPEDITION TO CAPE YORK 144
CHAPTER X.
LEICHHARDT'S EXPEDITIONS TO PORT ESSINGTON AND INTO THE INTERIOR 152
CHAPTER XI.
MR. A. C. GREGORY'S EXPEDITION TO THE NORTH-WEST INTERIOR 163
CHAPTER XII.
BURKE AND WILLS'S EXPEDITION ACROSS THE AUSTRALIAN CONTINENT 167
CHAPTER XIII.
SEARCH EXPEDITIONS IN QUEST OF BURKE AND WILLS 182
CHAPTER XIV.
JOHN M'DOUALL STUART'S EXPEDITIONS IN THE SOUTH, TO THE CENTRE, AND
ACROSS THE CONTINENT 194
CHAPTER XV.
COLONEL WARBURTON'S JOURNEY ACROSS THE WESTERN INTERIOR 210
CHAPTER XVI.
THE HON. JOHN FORREST'S EXPLORATIONS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA 219
CHAPTER XVII.
MR. ERNEST GILES'S EXPLORATIONS IN CENTRAL AND WESTERN AUSTRALIA 228
CHAPTER XVIII.
OTHER EXPLORERS IN WESTERN AUSTRALIA--CONCLUSION 237
THE AUSTRALIAN EXPLORERS.
INTRODUCTION: PIONEER NAVIGATORS.
The eastern coast of New Holland, as Australia was then called, was
discovered by Captain Cook, while engaged in the first of his voyages
round the world. Leaving Cape Farewell, in New Zealand, on the 13th of
March, 1770, and steering a north-westerly course, on the 18th of April
he found the new continent rise into view in one of its south-eastern
headlands, which was then named Point Hicks, but is now known as Cape
Conran, and reckoned within the territory of Victoria. Henceforward the
_Endeavour_ was navigated along the coast to its most northern limit. In
these southern waters no practicable landing-place was observed till
Botany Bay was reached. Here the good ship came to anchor, and nearly a
week was passed amidst the strangest sights and scenes. This brief
interlude being over, the northern voyage was resumed in quest of
further discoveries. Scarcely had the Botany Heads faded from the view
when another large inlet was sighted from the deck of the vessel, but,
unhappily, not visited. The point of observation being miserably
inadequate, the great navigator was all unconscious of his being abreast
of the finest harbour of the world, and having given it the name of Port
Jackson, in honour of a distinguished English friend, held on his course
without pause or delay. For a while all went well with the navigator,
but in an hour when no danger was expected a cry of "breakers ahead"
brought to everyone on board a sense of extreme peril. By dint of the
captain's superior seamanship, and his perfect command over the crew,
the ship was turned from the rocks in a critical moment, and the
expedition rescued from a disastrous termination. The locality of this
threatened calamity was marked by a projection of the land, overhung by
a conspicuous hill, to which Cook gave the respective names of Point
Danger and Mount Warning, positions which the reader will recognize as
now forming the coastal boundary between New South Wales and Queensland.
But the _Endeavour_ was not to finish her voyage without making a still
closer acquaintance with misfortune. Having unconsciously approached a
hidden danger in the far north, she landed bodily on a reef, and
sustained most serious damage. It was only after the sacrifice of much
valuable cargo that she could be floated, and then it taxed all the
skill of the captain and the utmost energies of his crew to bring her to
the nearest anchorage. The port of safety, reached with so much
difficulty, proved to be the mouth of a small river, which has since
borne the name of the Endeavour. The repair of the crazy vessel
occupied a period of six weeks, during which "Jack ashore" enjoyed
rather exciting holidays, making his first acquaintance with the
kangaroo and other grotesque oddities of the Australian fauna. Having
again put to sea, only one stage more remained, and this over, the great
navigator reached Cape York, the extreme northern limit of this new
territory. Cook succeeded in his object to a degree that must have
surpassed his most sanguine anticipations, and now took care that his
labours should not be in vain, but redound to the benefit of his
country. All that was wanting was a declaration of ownership, and this
he accordingly made on the spot: "As I am now about to quit the eastern
coast of New Holland, which I have coasted from 38° latitude to this
place, and which I am confident no European has ever seen before, I once
more hoist the English colours (although I have already taken possession
of the whole eastern coast by the name of New South Wales, from its
great similarity to that part of the principality of Wales), in the
right of my sovereign, George III., King of Great Britain."
This welcome gift fell into the hands of the nation in a time of need.
Transportation to Virginia having come to an end through the revolt of
the American colonies, the English gaols were being filled to overflow
with criminals, and a new outlet was imperatively required. Somewhere in
the world a place had to be found for a penal settlement. The
publication of Cook's discoveries came in the nick of time, and
delivered the Government from embarrassment. It was resolved accordingly
to establish a crown colony at Botany Bay, which had been fully and only
too favourably described by the circumnavigator. On the 18th of March,
1787, a fleet consisting of eleven ships, carrying 757 convicts and 200
soldiers, was despatched under the command of Captain Phillip, a retired
military officer. The voyage being somewhat circuitous, its destination
was not reached till the 18th of January following. Less than a week
sufficed to show that Cook's picture of Botany had more of colour than
correctness. The shores were found to be shallow, the roadstead exposed,
and the adjacent land ill suited to the purpose in view. Without loss of
time, the Governor, with his assistants, proceeded to examine the
capabilities of Port Jackson, which had been cursorily seen at a
distance by Cook and dismissed in a single sentence of his otherwise
copious narrative. The exploration issued in unmeasured satisfaction and
surprise. The party returned to the encampment with the tidings of a
harbour with a hundred coves, on the ample bosom of which all the navies
of Europe might ride at anchor. Orders to decamp were issued forthwith,
and the removal of the nascent colony was the work of but a day or two.
The spot selected for the permanent home is contiguous to the modern
Circular Quay, and was recommended for acceptance by a clear and limpid
stream that glided on its course underneath the indigenous copse. The
infant colony had its baptism of hardship, but was able to survive the
struggle for existence. The inauguration took place on the 7th of
February, 1788, when the settlement was formally proclaimed a crown
colony, in circumstances of no small state and ceremony.
The passion for discovery soon took possession of the new arrivals, and
the adventurous Governor placed himself in the front of this enterprise.
To us who live in times when Australia has ceased to be an unknown land,
their efforts in this direction may appear to have been small and the
results insignificant, but it should not be forgotten that the horizon
was at that time the limit of discovery, even in meagre outline, whilst
an accurate survey had scarcely proceeded a couple of miles beyond the
settlement. On the 2nd of May the Governor and party sailed off in the
long-boat for the purpose of exploring Broken Bay, which had been seen
and named by Captain Cook, but not entered. It proved to be the entrance
to a large river, expanding to an immense width, and abounding in
exquisite natural scenery. Having crossed the bar, three distinct
divisions of Broken Bay were explored, and to the last of which they
gave the name of Pitt Water, in honour of the far-famed English premier.
Next year this success was followed up with the exploration of the river
(the Hawkesbury) which here enters the sea. Large tracts of rich
alluvial land were found on both sides. In a short time hence these
fertile flats became the homes of an industrious agricultural
population, who frequently saved Sydney from the horrors of famine. This
voyage of discovery was continued as far as Richmond Hill (the
Kurrajong), from which position the chasm in the mountains was
distinctly seen, and the sentries which guard its entrance named the
Carmarthen and Lansdown Hills.
It was the exploration of the coast-line, however, that principally
engaged the attention of the infant colony, and for this work two men of
rare ability stepped to the front. In 1795, just seven years after the
foundation of the colony, Captain Hunter, having been appointed Governor
in succession to Captain Phillip, arrived in Port Jackson with the
_Reliance_ and the _Supply_, bringing George Bass as surgeon and Matthew
Flinders in the capacity of midshipman. These adventurous and truly
kindred spirits lost no time in girding themselves up for the work of
discovery. They had been barely a month in the country when the
colonists saw them start on their first expedition. Taking only a boy
for general service, and embarking in a boat not more than eight feet
long--very suitably named the _Tom Thumb_--they sailed round to Botany
Bay, thence up George's River, which was now explored for 20 miles
beyond what was previously known. The results were, the opening up of
much available land and the commencement of a new settlement under the
name of Bankstown, which is still retained. But the success attending
this adventure was eclipsed by next year's discoveries, which were
achieved under similar difficulties. The tiny _Tom Thumb_, with its
crew of three all told, again left Port Jackson for the purpose of
examining a large river which was supposed to enter the ocean to the
south of Botany Bay. Having stood out to sea in order to catch the
current, the voyagers unwittingly passed the object of their search and
were carried far southward. Bad weather now supervened; the little craft
was tossed like a cork on the billows, and finally beached in a heavy
surf with the loss of many valuables on board. Being now in want of
water, the party were compelled to leave the rock-bound coast and steer
still further south, in the hope of finding a more favourable locality.
Eventually they cast anchor about two miles beyond the present town of
Wollongong, in an inlet which, in commemoration of this incident, still
bears the name of the Tom Thumb Lagoon. The blacks, it was ascertained,
called the district Allourie, which has, doubtless, been transformed
into the more euphonious Illawarra. On the homeward voyage Bass and
Flinders made a seasonable discovery of a snug little shelter, which
they called Providential Cove, but which is now generally known by the
native name, Wattamolla. About four miles further north they were
fortunate at last in hitting upon the real object of their search. It
proved to be a large sheet of water stretching several miles inland, and
presented the appearance of a port rather than a river. The natives
spoke of it as "Deeban," but it is now called Port Hacking, it is
believed in acknowledgment of the services of a pilot of that name.
Having accomplished far more than the object they had in view, the
daring seamen returned to Sydney Cove, after passing through a
succession of perils and privations which give to their narrative the
character, not of sober history, but of wild romance.
The next important expedition was carried out under the sole conduct of
Bass. On his own petition the Governor furnished him with a whale-boat,
carrying a crew of six seamen and provided with supplies for six weeks
only. With so slender an equipment this born adventurer sailed from Port
Jackson on a voyage of 600 miles, along a little-known and possibly
perilous coast. One lovely summer evening, which happened to be the 3rd
of December, 1797, the little whaler with its stout-hearted crew bore
round the South Head, and bravely turned its prow towards its unknown
destination. Scarcely had the familiar landmarks dropped out of sight
when the elements engaged in tempestuous fury, and the storm drove the
adventurers to seek shelter first at Port Hacking, next at Wattamolla,
and again near Cook's Red Point, on the Illawarra coast. The headland,
under the lee of which the vessel took refuge, stands a little to the
south of Lake Illawarra, and still bears the name of Bass' Point. Not
long after the voyage was resumed he discovered the embouchure of a
river in an inferior harbour, which he called Shoalhaven, believing it
deserved no better name. Jervis Bay was next entered, but this was no
discovery, for it had been previously explored by Lieutenant Bowen,
whose name is still preserved in an island lying near the entrance.
Bass, however, had the good luck to discover Twofold Bay--a scene of
never-failing beauty, and a place of importance in our early history.
Passing rapidly southward he rounded Cape Howe, and first noticed the
Long Beach, but was unable to identify Point Hicks. He was now 300 miles
from Sydney, and whatever remained of the voyage was along an absolutely
unknown coast. Some important discoveries were made at various points,
but the most valuable portion of his labours was the exploration of
Western Port. Here he remained thirteen days, during which this
commodious harbour was carefully examined and fully described. A leading
object of the voyage had been to settle the question of the suspected
insularity of Van Diemen's Land. Bass had really solved the problem
without knowing it, for he had passed through the strait which now bears
his name. That it was detached from the continent his own bearings
rendered almost a certainty. To do more was impossible in the
circumstances. He had already been seven weeks from Sydney, which had
been left with only six weeks' provisions. These, though eked out by an
occasional supply of fish and fowl, were nearly exhausted, and the
homeward voyage was made on the shortest course. During an absence of
eleven weeks he had examined the coast for 600 miles south of Port
Jackson, the latter half of which had been utterly unknown up to the
time of this expedition.
There still remains for review another memorable voyage of discovery,
undertaken by Bass and Flinders conjointly in the year 1798. The object
of this expedition was to demonstrate the existence of the probable
strait and the consequent insularity of Van Diemen's land; and the way
it was proposed to accomplish this double object was to sail through the
channel and circumnavigate the island. Bent on this adventure Bass and
Flinders left Sydney Cove on the 7th October, in the _Norfolk_, a good
sea-going sloop of 25 tons burthen. The run over the known waters was
made purposely in haste, because the time was limited. Their cruise in
the channel disclosed a large number of islands, the haunts of myriads
of sea-fowl, particularly the sooty petrel, which, though far from
savoury, served as an article of food. This strange bird was found, like
the rabbit, to burrow in the ground, where it was easily captured in the
evening. Flinders says it was simply necessary to thrust in the whole
length of the arm into the hole, whence one would be almost certain to
bring out a petrel--or a snake. The alternative was not a pleasant one,
but the commander had to husband up the provisions and the sailors were
not unwilling to run the risk. The circumnavigation of Van Diemen's Land
(Tasmania) commenced at the northern point, known as Cape Portland.
Nothing specially remarkable occurred till a point was reached which
they named Low Head, immediately after which the _Norfolk_ entered an
arm of the sea more than a mile in width. This appeared to be a
discovery of sufficient importance to devote sixteen days to its
exploration. It proved to be the embouchure of what is now known as the
River Tamar, on which Launceston, the second town of the island, is
built. The discoverers sailed up the estuary, following its course for
many miles inland. It was found to be alive with aquatic fowls,
particularly black swans, sometimes numbering 500 in a flock. This
unexpected diversion proved rich sport, and afforded a pleasant
interlude to the monotony of life at sea. But the expedition was not for
play, but work, and the ship was again upon her course. After a short
sail to the westward they found themselves rounding the north-west cape,
and with glad hearts could perceive the shore trending away for many a
league to the south. The problem was already virtually solved.
"Mr. Bass and myself," says Flinders, "hailed it with joy and mutual
congratulation, as announcing the completion of our long-wished-for
discovery of a passage into the southern Indian Ocean." This fortunate
issue of their labours marked an epoch both in the history of discovery
and the progress of international commerce. The circuitous route round
the south of Van Diemen's Land could henceforth be avoided, and in our
day the intervening strait has become the ordinary highway for the
Australian trade. It being still deemed advisable to carry out the
instructions to the letter, the circumnavigation of the island was
prosecuted with varying interest. In the southern parts some valuable
discoveries were made, and errors of previous observers corrected. In
consequence of unfavourable weather the run along the eastern coast was
made for the most part out of sight of land, but on the 6th of January
it was found they had completely rounded Van Diemen's Land, and so
brought their work to an end. The time allotted for the expedition
having also expired, the heroic navigators returned to Sydney, bringing
the welcome intelligence that doubt was no longer possible concerning
the insularity of Tasmania, and the practicability of the intervening
channel as a highway of commerce. The merit of this latter discovery is
almost equally due to both navigators, but with a generosity which
reflects credit, and is as noble as it is rare, Flinders prevailed on
Governor Hunter to call it Bass' Strait.
What had now been done for the island of Van Diemen's Land by Bass and
Flinders conjointly was next to be achieved for the continent of
Australia by Flinders single-handed. Before his time much had been done
in enterprises of discovery on numerous and distant parts of the coast
by various commanders and by different nations; but as these efforts had
been conducted under no comprehensive plan, there was no continuous line
of exploration, and accordingly the discoveries hitherto made were known
only as _disjecta membra_, lying at wide intervals in the Southern
Ocean; but whether they were the extremities of one and the same
continent, or a cluster of sporadic islands, there was not yet
sufficient evidence to show. To settle this question was the true
mission of Matthew Flinders, and the method he adopted was to
circumnavigate the whole territory, keeping so near the land as to have
his eye on the raging surf, except when the darkness of the night and
the wildness of the weather rendered this purpose impracticable. On the
very day of his death the printing-press issued a record of his labours
in a couple of goodly quartos entitled "A Voyage to Terra Australis."
This name was proposed for the new country as a fair and likely means of
overcoming an acknowledged difficulty. The Dutch had long ago discovered
the western coast and called the country New Holland, whereas the
English, having performed a similar service for the eastern side, gave
the name of New South Wales to this and the parts adjacent. Herein lay
the difficulty; to call the whole continent New Holland seemed unfair to
the English, whilst it appeared equally unjust to the Dutch to give the
entire country the name of New South Wales. Flinders thought Terra
Australis would be a reasonable compromise, but added, in an
all-important footnote--"Had I permitted myself any innovation upon the
original term, it would have been to convert it into AUSTRALIA, as being
more agreeable to the ear and an assimilation to the other great
portions of the earth." The suggestion was a most fortunate one, in
spite of the innovation, and the remark shows that, among other and
greater obligations, we are indebted to this navigator for the name of
our country.
On the 18th of July, 1801, Flinders sailed from Spithead in the
_Investigator_ for the circumnavigation of Australia. The continent was
first sighted on the 6th of December at the old landmark of the Leeuwin,
which had hitherto been believed to be an island, but was now found to
be connected with the mainland, and henceforth known as _Cape_ Leeuwin.
Having visited King George's Sound, the run was next made along the
Great Australian Bight to Fowler's Bay and Nuyt's Archipelago. Other
navigators had visited this part and examined it with more or less
attention. All the knowledge gained in the next stage had the merit of
original discoveries. Foremost among these were Spencer and St. Vincent
Gulfs, with Yorke Peninsula intervening, and a large island lying nearly
opposite. On the latter they found no human inhabitants, but marsupials
and seals were seen in prodigious numbers, and hence the explorers gave
it the name of Kangaroo Island. Having never met with any of Adam's
children till now, the denizens of the island showed no timidity in the
presence of the strangers, nor expected any harm; and this indifference
was observed to continue much longer with the kangaroos than with the
seals. Flinders was of opinion that the kangaroos mistook their visitors
for a variety of seals, but the seals soon became too knowing to
confound them with kangaroos. A little sharp experience led both classes
of animals to regard the intruders as deadly enemies. From that hour
confidence departed and fear took its place. Shortly after the
navigator left this island a very memorable incident occurred. A sailor
from the mast-head reported a white rock in sight. On a nearer view it
proved to be the sails of a ship--of all things surely the last to be
expected in this unknown quarter of the world. Both vessels met in these
strange waters, and then the apparition turned out to be the French ship
the _Geographe_, also on a voyage of discovery, under the command of
Captain Baudin. The jealous Frenchman ill concealed his vexation on
meeting with a rival who had reaped the harvest of discovery over so
many leagues of a coast-line which he believed himself to be the first
to visit. Nor was jealousy his only or his worst fault. This
unscrupulous navigator had the audacity to proceed as an explorer in
unknown waters, and lay claim to discoveries which the Englishman had
just made. Flinders, on the contrary, acted like the model of integrity
which he was. He maintained the right of prior discovery in respect to
all the places he had been the first to visit, leaving to Baudin an
undisputed claim on such as he had already examined. This is the reason
why the names of localities to the westward of this point are
predominantly English, while those lying to the east are French. To the
place of meeting, as being a sort of double discovery, Flinders gave the
name of Encounter Bay. A minute examination of the remaining portions of
this coast having been rendered unnecessary, in consequence of Baudin's
cruise, Flinders now pushed on to Bass' Strait and entered an inlet
which he supposed to be Western Port. This conjecture turned out to be
a mistake, for the place, so far as Flinders was concerned, proved to be
a new discovery. Subsequently, however, he ascertained that the inlet
had been visited about ten weeks earlier by Lieutenant Murray, who had
given it the name of Port Phillip. Perceiving the importance of the
place, Flinders wisely devoted one week to the examination of the bay
and the exploration of the immediate neighbourhood. Having seen so many
capabilities of land and water, he put on record his opinion that "a
settlement would probably be made at Port Phillip some time after." This
hesitating prophecy was uttered as late as the year 1802, and the
locality in question is the site on which the great city of Melbourne
now stands, with its population of 300,000 souls! Having again stood out
to sea, the _Investigator_ was soon abreast of Western Port, the utmost
limit of Bass's discoveries, and now the vessel was considered to be in
known waters. A direct run was accordingly made for Port Jackson, and
Sydney was reached on the 1st of May, 1802.
Philip Gidley King was at that time governor of New South Wales, and
Flinders had the good fortune to find in him both the courtesy of a
gentleman and the kindness of a friend. Permission having been obtained
from the Admiralty, the Governor placed the _Lady Nelson_ at the service
of the indefatigable navigator, and in every possible way encouraged his
enterprise. Being thus supplied with all requisites which the young
settlement could furnish, the _Investigator_, accompanied by the _Lady
Nelson_ as tender, resumed the voyage of circumnavigation under
promising auspices. Since the time of Cook the north-eastern coast had
been visited in various parts by different navigators, but much yet
remained to be done before a correct map could be drawn up, and Flinders
had it among his instructions to supply the deficiencies of his
predecessors wherever that might be possible. Having taken the trouble
to find out what portions of the coast Cook had passed in the night, he
made it his business to keep a sharp look-out on such localities, and in
this way became the discoverer of Curtis Bay and other inlets of
considerable importance. He was able also to correct many of Cook's
observations, and being provided with better instruments, supplied, in
not a few cases, the shortcomings of several other predecessors. But his
most valuable services in this quarter were his observations on the
Great Barrier Reef, which for more than a thousand miles runs nearly
parallel with the northern coast, and had hitherto been viewed as the
terror of navigators. To pierce this obstruction and get out into the
open sea was an undertaking of so much intricacy that seamen were
accustomed to call it "threading the needle." Even Cook, prince of
navigators as he was, failed in the attempt. Flinders persevered till he
discovered a safe gap in the mighty rampart, and showed succeeding
navigators an easy escape from a grave difficulty. An outside course was
then followed to the extreme north. Having now passed through the
Endeavour Strait, Flinders came to anchor in the Gulf of Carpentaria,
where he found a new scene for his energies and a rich field of
discovery awaiting him.
The Gulf of Carpentaria had been early visited by the Dutch navigators,
but its exploration--if this word could be applied at all--had been
conducted in a desultory and piecemeal fashion. Its turn had come at
last, and the same painstaking service was to be rendered here which had
made the south and eastern coasts so correctly known. Flinders found the
gulf defined on the chart by a vague and hesitating coast-line, which
turned out, in most cases, to be more imaginary than according to
nature, and he left it so accurately described that his successors have
been able to add little to his careful investigations. In this patient
research four months were consumed, during which period he examined the
whole coast from end to end, including Arnheim Bay. The three seaboards
of Australia, south, east, and north, had now been explored in the
_Investigator_. It need not, therefore, occasion surprise to hear of her
showing signs of decay. This matter had to be attended to before
commencing the survey of the western coast, which was meant to be as
thorough as that of the other three had been. After making a call at
Timor with despatches, a rapid run was made for Port Jackson by the
western coast, but out of sight of land. Cape Leeuwin, the point from
which the circumnavigation had started, was reached on the 13th of May,
1803, and thus the heroic undertaking was virtually accomplished.
Shipwreck, tragic sufferings, and diabolical treachery cut off the
possibility of any further exploration of the western coast by Matthew
Flinders.
The work which was thus left imperfect through a long series of
misfortunes was afterwards resumed, and very satisfactorily completed,
by another distinguished navigator, Captain, and subsequently Admiral
King. He played a prominent part in this period of our history, and was
much beloved for his sterling qualities both of head and heart. He made
four voyages to the western coast, in every one of which excellent
service was rendered to the cause of exploration. The following
interesting abstract of his discoveries has been kindly furnished by his
son, the Hon. P. G. King, M.L.C.:--
"On the 4th of February, 1817, Lieutenant Philip Parker King, of the
Royal Navy, the only son of Captain Philip Gidley King, the third
Governor of New South Wales, was appointed by the Lords Commissioners of
the Admiralty to carry out a survey of the then unexplored parts of the
'coasts of New South Wales,' which comprised from Arnheim Bay, near the
western entrance of the Gulf of Carpentaria, westward, and southward as
far as the South-West Cape, including the opening or deep bay called Van
Diemen's Bay, and the cluster of islands called the Rosemary Islands,
and the inlets behind them. He was also to examine the coast between
Cape Leeuwin and Cape Gasselin in M. De Freycinet's chart, and to
complete the circumnavigation of the 'continent.'
"The Governor of the colony was directed to place at his disposal any
suitable vessel for his purpose, and accordingly the _Mermaid_, a cutter
recently arrived from India, of 84 tons burden, was placed under his
charge. Mr. F. Bedwell and Mr. John Septimus Roe (afterwards
Surveyor-General of Western Australia) were his assistants, and Mr.
Allan Cunningham, the botanical collector, specially appointed by Sir
Joseph Banks, the botanist of Cook's expedition. The chief of the Broken
Bay tribe of aborigines, 'Boon-ga-ree,' accompanied the little
expedition, and much service was obtained from him in the various
interviews with the natives.
"Taking advantage of the westerly monsoon, the _Mermaid_ commenced her
work, leaving Port Jackson on the 22nd of December, 1817, and,
proceeding by Bass' Strait, arrived off the North-West Cape on the 10th
of February. The favourable wind lasted till the beginning of March,
when the south-east monsoon obliged the vessel to be worked to the
eastward, for the purpose of running before it on her work. Having
examined the coast and islands as far as Depuch Bay, the survey was
resumed at the Goulburn Islands. Port Essington was examined; also, Van
Diemen's Gulf and the Alligator River. A survey was made of the northern
shore of Melville Island and Apsley Strait, till the 31st of May, when,
provisions drawing to an end and water failing, the little vessel
stretched across 'the Great Australian Strait' to Timor, and anchored
off the Dutch settlement of Coepang on the 4th of June. On the 19th
Montebelle and Barrow Islands were surveyed. Dysentery now attacked the
ship's company, and further work had to be given up for this, Lieutenant
King's first voyage, which, lasting 31-1/2 weeks, terminated in his
return to Port Jackson on the 29th of July.
"The winds not proving favourable for the passage through Torres Strait
by the eastern coast till February in the following year, 1819, a voyage
was made in the interval to Van Diemen's Land, and a survey was made of
Macquarie Harbour, on the west coast, and a departure was taken for the
second voyage on the 8th of May, during which a running survey was made,
including an examination of the entrance of Port Macquarie, from the
entrance of the inner passage through the Barrier Reefs at Breaksea Spit
to the Endeavour River, thence northerly as far as Cape York. A stretch
was now made across the Gulf of Carpentaria, and various parts of the
coast to the westward were examined, and Cambridge Gulf and Admiralty
Gulf were discovered and surveyed. A second visit had to be made to
Coepang to obtain supplies, to enable the vessel to return to Port
Jackson, where they arrived on the 12th December, after an absence of 35
weeks. During this voyage a survey had been made of 540 miles of the
northern coast, in addition to 500 on the previous expedition, as well
as on this occasion making a running survey on the eastern coast of 900
miles.
"The third expedition comprised a further survey of the 900 miles just
alluded to, and of the north-west coast in various parts. It may be
noteworthy that the cutter was rigged on this occasion with rope made in
New South Wales from New Zealand flax (_phormium tenax_). The third
voyage was completed on the 9th of December, 1820, having occupied a
period of 25-1/2 weeks.
"For the fourth voyage it was found necessary to purchase a larger
vessel, and, accordingly, Captain King, who had now received his
promotion, found himself in command of a brig of 170 tons, which was
thereafter called the _Bathurst_. The coast northwards to Torres Strait
was further examined. The Mauritius was visited, and the west coast
examined from Rottnest Island to the Buccaneers' Archipelago. The
_Bathurst_ returned to Port Jackson on the 25th of April, 1822, after an
absence of 344 days. Captain King was then ordered by the Admiralty to
return to England, to prepare his charts and journals for publication.
"It is impossible in such a short _résumé_ of his voyages to allude to
the numerous and interesting interviews with the aborigines which he
fell in with, further than to state that they were always conducted with
a desire to establish friendly relations. Captain King's services were
approved by the Admiralty, as he was entrusted with another command of
two vessels, to survey the southern coasts of South America."
From 1839 to 1845 the survey of the north-western coasts was continued
with the _Beagle_, first under the command of Captain Wickham, and
subsequently of Lieutenant Stokes. Soon after arriving from England, in
the close of 1837, the coast was examined from Roebuck Bay to King's
Sound, during which cruise the Fitzroy River was discovered and
navigated for 90 miles from its entrance. In another voyage to the north
the coast was explored in the vicinity of Port Essington, which was
found to be a spacious harbour. Whilst examining Clarence Strait they
made the important discovery of the Adelaide River, which was
subsequently described by Mr. J. M'Douall Stuart as one of the best
possible situations for a new settlement. Port Darwin was also
discovered during this voyage. The _Beagle_ now proceeded to Cambridge
Gulf, and discovered the Victoria and Fitzmaurice Rivers. The former was
navigated for 50 miles, and rather hastily described as one of the
finest rivers of Australia. The run was now made to Swan River, and
thence, after a cruise among the islands, to Port Jackson. In June,
1841, the _Beagle_ again left Sydney, to examine the southern coast of
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Some important discoveries were made during
this cruise. A fine river, which the explorers named the Flinders, was
found, and navigated for 30 miles. On the 1st of August they discovered
the Albert. Having ascended to a splendid sheet of water, which was
named Hope Reach, they found themselves in the midst of enchanting
scenery, which Captain Stokes thus describes:--"It was as glorious a
prospect as could greet the eye. A magnificent sheet of water lay before
us in one unbroken expanse, resembling a smooth translucent lake. Its
gentle repose harmonized exquisitely with the slender, motionless boughs
of the drooping gums, palms, and acacias that clustered on the banks,
and dipped their feathery foliage in the limpid stream that, like a
polished mirror, bore within its bosom the image of the graceful
vegetation by which it was bordered. The report of our guns, as they
dealt destruction among the quails that here abounded, rolled for the
first time along the waters of the Albert, breaking in on the hush of
stillness that appeared to reign over all like the presence of a spirit.
The country which stretched away from either bank was an extensive
plain, covered with long, coarse grass, above which was occasionally
seen the head of a kangaroo, listening with its acute ear to our
approach." It was not possible to ascend much higher than this reach, on
account of the fallen timber which blocked the channel. The explorers
then landed on immense plains, which, perhaps with too hasty judgment,
they named the Plains of Promise. During this voyage they had examined
the Gulf coast for 200 miles, making the discovery of twenty inlets and
two large rivers.
CHAPTER I.
THE PIONEERS OF THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.
Persons who have yet to make their acquaintance with the early history
of New South Wales will learn with surprise that the colony had been
founded for almost a quarter of a century before the Blue Mountain
barrier was crossed. For so long a period it was scarcely possible to
proceed more than forty miles from Sydney in any direction. Many a
despairing look must those early settlers have cast on the frowning
ramparts of the range, which, leaving only a narrow margin between
itself and the sea, threatened to convert the cradle of the colony into
a Procrustes' bed, to which its dimensions would have to conform in the
future, as they had done in the past. This sense of confinement was the
harder to bear that it was met with in a land of freedom; and many a
time did the caged eagle dash itself with fruitless rage against the
bars of its prison. A record of the unsuccessful attempts to get beyond
the main range would form a heroic chapter of our history, and one, too,
of which we might well feel proud, if there is any truth in the saying
that in great undertakings it is glorious even to fail. Within four
months after the arrival of the "first fleet" our annals present a
picture of Governor Phillip and party struggling laboriously westward
to the gorges of the mountains. In 1793 Lieutenant Dawes, with Captains
Trench and Paterson, put forth equally persistent, but just as
unsuccessful, efforts to scale the sandstone cliffs and reach the
interior. During this year, also, H. Hacking, of the _Sirius_, with two
companions, penetrated twenty miles into the mountains, passing over
eighteen or nineteen ridges or gullies, and returned to the settlement
after an absence of seven days. Three years later George Bass, the
famous, though unprofessional, navigator and discoverer of the strait
which still bears his name, did all that marvels of perseverance could
accomplish in the hope of forcing a passage by way of the valley of the
Grose. Taking a party on whose courage he could rely, Bass had his feet
armed with iron hooks that he might scale the cliffs, after the manner
of a spider, and made his men lower him with ropes into the outlying
chasms. But it was all in vain. After fifteen days of heroic endeavour,
he returned to Sydney, bringing the cold comfort of impossibility of
transit. Bass assured his fellow-colonists that a passage over the Blue
Mountains did not exist, even for a person on foot. It is possible that
this strong statement was disproved almost immediately after. A
tradition, not too well authenticated, speaks of a convict of the name
of Wilson actually crossing the mountains in 1799. With another advance
we get better footing, and read of a Lieutenant Barrellier making a
similar attempt, but only to add another name to the list of failures.
Two years later an effort of a more promising character was made by a
botanist of the name of Cayley, who pushed his way into the heart of the
mountains as far as the present Numantia, where he erected a cairn of
stones to mark the furthest limit of exploration to the west. He left
his rude monument without a name, but Governor Macquarie, in a sportive
mood, called it "Cayley's Repulse," and by this brand it is still
remembered by old colonists. The late Dr. Lang thus refers to it in his
"History":--"The place was pointed out to me by a respectable settler of
the Bathurst district on crossing the mountains for the first time in
the year 1826. It is certainly a most remarkable locality, nothing being
visible in any direction but immense masses of weather-beaten sandstone
rocks, towering over each other in all the sublimity of desolation;
quite a deep chasm, intersecting a lofty ridge covered with blasted
trees, seems to present an insurmountable barrier to all further
progress."
At this outpost discovery appears to have stood still for a considerable
period. If further attempts were entered on in the succeeding years very
little has been said about them. The settlers must have made up their
minds for the time being to submit to the inevitable and reconcile
themselves to the situation with the best consolation they could find.
But a pressing emergency assailed them before long which aroused the
slumbering energy and led to another assault on the western ramparts. A
continuous drought had succeeded equally disastrous floods in the
Hawkesbury. The live stock of the settlement had by this time increased
to 65,121 sheep, 21,343 horned cattle, and 1,891 horses, and all these
had to be kept during a season of drought on an area of 80 miles by 40,
the greater part of which in the best of times was hopelessly sterile.
In this trying situation it became very manifest that one of two
alternatives had to be faced--either the Blue Mountain barrier must be
forced at all hazards and a way found into the interior, or, should this
prove to be absolutely impossible, the surplus stock would have to be
removed from the colony, if they were not to perish from starvation. The
crisis was a serious one, but it happily called forth an effectual
remedy. Three most capable men now came to the front to scale the
mountain ramparts from which so many assailants had already been cast
down; and now, at last, fortune was pleased to smile on the enterprise.
The foremost of this memorable trio was Gregory Blaxland, a native of
Kent, and born of an old English family in 1779. The second on the
expedition was William Lawson, who was formerly lieutenant in the 102nd
regiment, but had latterly retired to "Veteran Hall," his own country
seat near Prospect. These two leaders, on whom the whole responsibility
devolved, were joined by a third person, then wholly unknown, but who
afterwards made for himself a name not to be forgotten in New South
Wales. This was the embryo patriot and statesman, William Charles
Wentworth. Blaxland was now in his 35th year, Lawson about the same
age, but Wentworth was barely out of his 'teens, and professedly joined
the expedition in a freak of youthful adventure.
This memorable expedition, consisting of the three parties named,
together with four attendants, a few pack horses, and several hunting
dogs, left Blaxland's farm, at South Creek, on the 11th of May, 1813.
The same afternoon the Nepean was crossed at Emu Ford, and the first
encampment made the same evening at the foot of the mountains which had
so long marked the western boundary of the settlement. The plan they
resolved to follow was to adhere to the dividing ridge or watershed
between the Warragumby and Grose Rivers, being careful to head all the
tributaries departing to the right or to the left. This determination
proved the secret of their ultimate success, and put the explorers in
possession of the only key to the situation. Next morning the Emu Plains
were left behind and the ascent of the mountains commenced. The high
land of Grose Head is noted as being about seven miles to the
north-east, and the place where the ascent began must have been
considerably to the north of the present Zig-zag, and near the starting
point of the original Bathurst-road. Having scaled the steepest part of
the ridge, here about 800 feet high, the travellers were careful to head
all the watercourses on both sides, in the hope of finding that the
highest ground would also be continuous. The first day's progress
amounted to a little over three miles, generally in a south-western
direction, and the night's encampment was made at the head of a deep
gully, where a small supply of water was found in the rock. Next morning
a start was made about 9 o'clock. After proceeding about a mile they had
the good luck to hit upon a large tract of forest land. Here was
discovered the track of a European, who had marked the trees. This belt
of open country ceased about two miles ahead, at which point further
progress was obstructed by impenetrable brushwood. The remainder of the
day having been consumed in fruitless efforts to round this obstacle,
the night was spent in the former position. Next morning the axes were
early at work hewing a track through the scrub, which could neither be
avoided nor penetrated. This step-by-step progress had to be endured for
five miles, until a more open patch was reached. Nor was this an
exceptional case. A great part of the route over the mountains had in
like manner to be laid open by the axe, thus making it necessary to
travel three times over the same ground. First, the track had to be cut
out; next, they had to return for the horses; and then the real advance
was made for another stage. On the fifth day the brushwood proved so
formidable that their progress did not exceed two miles. The following
day was Sunday, and the explorers enjoyed the Sabbath rest as much as
any toil-worn slave that ever breathed. On the 17th the horses were
loaded with a supply of grass, as the country was becoming still more
inhospitable, and an advance of seven miles was made through a track
which the axe had laid open. But the windings of the watershed now
appeared interminable, and the real progress, if measured in a straight
line, was small indeed. Yet it was only by this tedious course that the
mountains could be crossed, if crossed at all. The locality of the next
encampment was destitute of water, and what could be obtained in the
vicinity had to be carried up a precipitous cliff 600 feet in height.
The horses had to shift as they best could for that evening. To
aggravate matters, if such a thing were possible, a more serious
obstacle now rose in front of the intrepid explorers. The ridge, which
was their only hope, contracted to a width of 20 feet, and appeared to
terminate in a huge rock rising 30 feet directly in front. But
perseverance, which overcomes all things, brought them safely over this
barrier too. Wednesday, the 19th, was a red-letter day, for they now
reached the summit of the second elevation of the main range. The site
also was suitable for a camp, and offered a good supply of grass and
water. Next day a five-mile stage was accomplished, and the camp formed
on the margin of a lagoon with a small stream of water running through
it. Here the horses were left till the men had cut another day's march
through the scrub. Soon after the ridge began to widen, but proved to be
more rocky than ever. From the 22nd to the 28th the advance was made at
much the same rate and without any incidents calling for particular
remark. At last the pioneers had the inexpressible satisfaction of
finding themselves on the western fall of the mountains. But the slopes
facing the interior were exceedingly rugged, and a practicable descent
was nearly despaired of. After much difficulty a barely feasible one was
discovered, by means of which the party got clear of the mountains and
found themselves in a lovely valley, afterwards called the Yale of
Clwydd, and now well known as the site of the town of Hartley.
Now, at last, the Blue Mountains had been crossed, but the pioneers
continued their journey a short distance further, to make sure that
every obstacle had been overcome. After leaving the range they advanced
two miles to the westward on the same day, and encamped on the bank of a
fine stream, probably what was afterwards known as the Rivulet, and now,
by an absurd blunder in spelling, the River Lett. The last encampment
was made on another brook, since called Farmer's Creek, but not from any
connection with the farming interest. Here Sir Thomas Mitchell lost his
favourite horse "Farmer," and considered the event of sufficient
importance to have its remembrance preserved in the name of the creek.
From this outpost of the expedition Blaxland went forth on the last
afternoon of May, 1813, and ascended a neighbouring hill, from the top
of which he beheld a magnificent expanse of pastoral country,
sufficient, in his reckoning, to meet the wants of the colony for thirty
years to come. This being the extreme point reached in this enterprise,
Governor Macquarie paid the leader a well-merited compliment in
associating the name of Blaxland with this memorable peak.
The object of the journey being now happily attained, it was judged
unnecessary to travel further. Twenty days had been spent in forcing a
passage through the formidable mountain barrier, and the progress had
been so slow that not much more than three miles per day had been
averaged. The actual distance travelled along this tortuous ridge was
reckoned at fifty miles, and eight more had been added on the other
side. The return journey calls for no detailed remarks. The explorers
were greatly fatigued, in very poor health, and their clothes had been
torn to rags. Their outward track had been too laboriously hewn through
the brushwood to be difficult to find on their return. The colonists at
Sydney hailed with welcome the tidings of this signal success, and lost
no time in turning the wished-for discovery to practical account.