CHAPTER XIII

OF FLORIDA FISHING--OF THE TIGERISH BARRACUDA AND THE SURPRISED-LOOKING

DOLPHIN--OF THE UNCONVENTIONAL HABITS OF THE WHIP-RAY AND THE VARYING

ESTIMATES OF CAP’N CHARLEY THOMPSON--AND OF THE CONSERVATIVE RAVING OF

THE MIAMI PROSPECTUSES

The Florida keys drip down from the end of the peninsula on which Miami

beach is built, and would doubtless be compared by Senator Lodge or the

late Robert Browning to a necklace of jade and gold, or to mango on

mango that o’erlace the sea, or something similarly poetic. Among,

between and around these keys is found the greatest fishing in the

world. Florida fishing is about as much like the ordinary conception of

fishing as prize-fighting is like fox-trotting. Instead of sitting

contemplatively over a rod and reel with a pipe in his mouth and a

dreamy look in his eyes, and occasionally snaking a small fish out of

the water in a leisurely manner, the Florida fisherman crouches over

his rod with taut muscles and enters knock-down and drag-out fights with

bundles of concentrated energy that leave him as sore and limp and

blistered as though he had been wrestling with the Twentieth Century

Limited.

Speedy motor-boats slip away from Miami landing-stages and reach the

fishing grounds in an hour. Over the reefs, on whose rocky peaks lie the

skeletons of many an ancient wreck, wait the barracuda, sometimes known

as the tigers of the sea. They are long, slim, silvery fish, rather like

enormous pickerel, and their jaws are set with heavy dog-teeth. They

average between four and five feet in length; and as the fisherman sits

in the stern of a motor-boat with his bait spinning along thirty yards

astern, he can see the barracuda following, following along behind the

bait like a thin gray shadow. The barracuda is always there and always

hungry; so when all other game fish fail, the fishermen turn to him.

When he finally decides to take the bait, he takes it with such vigor

that the fisherman feels that a steamer trunk has fallen on the tip of

his rod. The rods are stiff as iron and the big reels have drags on them

that would stop a race-horse in a hundred yards; so the average

barracuda seldom fights more than ten minutes. All game fish, of course,

are caught by trolling from the back of a motor-boat traveling from six

to ten miles an hour.

Out a little farther toward the gulf stream are the golden dolphins,

thin and surprised-looking fish, much smaller than the barracuda, but

better fighters. There, too, is the husky amberjack, that fights for

twenty minutes and more in spite of the heavy drag on the reel. The

prettiest welter-weight fighter of the Florida waters is the sailfish, a

blue and silver torpedo, five and six and seven feet in length, with a

spear for a nose and a lateen sail for a dorsal fin. He is a finicky

striker; and when he is at the bait one feels only a slight jar. The

lightness of the touch usually means sailfish; and when it comes, the

fisherman releases his drag and lets his line run out fifteen or twenty

or even thirty feet. Then he snaps the drag back into place and hoists

his rod with a mighty heave without further inquiry. Frequently the

sailfish is at the end of the line, in which case the fun begins--the

sensation being about the same as holding a bucking bronco at the end of

a fifty-yard rope. If an amateur is holding the rod, the end of the

thirty or forty-five minute fight finds him calling in a weak and

trembling voice for a large drink of varnish or some similar

restorative, and he spends the remainder of the trip pricking and

caressing the blisters on his hands.

Farther out in the gulf stream are the kings of the heavy-weight

scrappers--tuna; while between the keys and the mainland are the giant

tarpon. These fish will fight for two, three and even four hours; and

if, in their leapings to shake the hooks from their mouths they chance

to fall in the boat, there is never any room for any one else.

The spectacles that one sees in these Florida waters are enough to make

Izaak Walton take the pledge.

During one day’s fishing which I had off the keys with President James

Allison of the Miami Aquarium and Cap’n Charley Thompson, champion

tarpon-tracker of Biscayne Bay, a whip-ray twenty feet from wing to wing

shot thirty feet into the air just ahead of our boat, falling back into

the water with a crash that must have been heard a mile in every

direction. Cap’n Thompson declared that this violent leaping was due to

the fact that the whip-ray frequently feeds on clams. When he has

gathered a bushel of clams into his stomach, he leaps high in the air

and descends on his stomach. The resultant crash breaks all the

clamshells and permits the ray to digest the clams. This doesn’t sound

exactly right, but one should be careful about disbelieving any of these

Florida stories. A little later a giant marlin or spear fish plunged out

of the water among our three lines when each line had a dolphin fighting

busily at its end. Cap’n Thompson estimated his weight at four hundred

pounds, but three hours later he was estimating it at seven hundred

pounds. At the end of the afternoon, when the lines were being reeled in

preparatory to starting home, an eight-foot shark surged up from nowhere

and removed my bait from beneath my hand. Fortunately, he removed the

hook with it, and a few minutes later he was lashed fast to the stern of

the boat, making a hurried trip back to Miami--where Director Louis

Mowbray of the Aquarium spent a happy hour removing pilot fish and

parasites from his nose and gills and tongue.

One can never tell what is going to turn up in Florida waters. The

prospectuses of both winter and summer resorts usually lay it on a

little too thick. The Miami prospectuses always sound very much too

much. Starting with the bathing-girls on the front cover and ending with

the proud fisherman on the back cover, they always look a little too

perfect. The phrasing, too, seems a trifle sappy and fat-headed. “It’s

June in Miami,” these prospectuses declare, “where winter is turned to

summer.” They seem to rave over-wildly. “Miami welcomes you with the

smile of the tropics,” rave these bits of passionate literature, “and

the warmth of the unclouded sun is instilled in the hospitality of the

greeting that awaits you here. Leave winter behind, fling care to the

icy winds, come to Miami and play at being eternally young again. Here

in Nature’s most alluring out-of-doors playground, under azure skies,

amid fronded palms and riotous flowers, with song of bird, balmy air,

and the benediction of glorious sunshine, find health, happiness and

contentment.”

It seems like raving before you’ve been there. But after you’ve been

there you recognize that the bathing girls and the fish are as

advertised. As for the prospectuses, they don’t seem so violent after

all. In fact, they seem pretty conservative.

THE END

Sun Hunting Adventures and Observations Among the Native and Migratory Tribes of Florida, Including the Stoical Time-Killers of Palm Beach, the Gentle and Gregarious Tin-Canners of the Remote Interior, and the Vivacious and Semi-Violent Peoples of Miami and Its Purlieus · 第 13 / 13 章