It was resolved that we should set out, in order to return to Slate,
to be in readiness to take boat whenever there should be a fair wind.
Dr Johnson remained in his chamber writing a letter, and it was long
before we could get him into motion. He did not come to breakfast, but
had it sent to him. When he had finished his letter, it was twelve
o'clock, and we should have set out at ten. When I went up to him, he
said to me, 'Do you remember a song which begins,
"Every island is a prison
Strongly guarded by the sea;
Kings and princes, for that reason,
Prisoners are, as well as we."'
I suppose he had been thinking of our confined situation. He would
fain have gone in a boat from hence, instead of riding back to Slate.
A scheme for it was proposed. He said, 'We'll not be driven tamely
from it': but it proved impracticable.
We took leave of M'Leod and Talisker, from whom we parted with regret.
Talisker, having been bred to physick, had a tincture of scholarship
in his conversation, which pleased Dr Johnson, and he had some very
good books; and being a colonel in the Dutch service, he and his lady,
in consequence of having lived abroad, had introduced the ease and
politeness of the continent into this rude region.
Young Col was now our leader. Mr M'Queen was to accompany us half a
day more. We stopped at a little hut, where we saw an old woman
grinding with the quern, the ancient Highland instrument, which it is
said was used by the Romans, but which, being very slow in its
operation, is almost entirely gone into disuse.
The walls of the cottages in Sky, instead of being one compacted mass
of stones, are often formed by two exterior surfaces of stone, filled
up with earth in the middle, which makes them very warm. The roof is
generally bad. They are thatched, sometimes with straw, sometimes with
heath, sometimes with fern. The thatch is secured by ropes of straw,
or of heath; and, to fix the ropes, there is a stone tied to the end
of each. These stones hang round the bottom of the roof, and make it
look like a lady's hair in papers; but I should think that, when there
is wind, they would come down, and knock people on the head.
We dined at the inn at Sconser, where I had the pleasure to find a
letter from my wife. Here we parted from our learned companion, Mr
Donald M'Queen. Dr Johnson took leave of him very affectionately,
saying, 'Dear sir, do not forget me!' We settled, that he should write
an account of the Isle of Sky, which Dr Johnson promised to revise. He
said, Mr M'Queen should tell all that he could; distinguishing what he
himself knew, what was traditional, and what conjectural.
We sent our horses round a point of land, that we might shun some very
bad road; and resolved to go forward by sea. It was seven o'clock when
we got into our boat. We had many showers, and it soon grew pretty
dark. Dr Johnson sat silent and patient. Once he said, as he looked on
the black coast of Sky--black, as being composed of rocks seen in the
dusk--'This is very solemn.' Our boatmen were rude singers, and seemed
so like wild Indians, that a very little imagination was necessary to
give one an impression of being upon an American river. We landed at
Strolimus, from whence we got a guide to walk before us, for two
miles, to Corrichatachin. Not being able to procure a horse for our
baggage, I took one portmanteau before me, and Joseph another. We had
but a single star to light us on our way. It was about eleven when we
arrived. We were most hospitably received by the master and mistress,
who were just going to bed, but, with unaffected ready kindness, made
a good fire, and at twelve o'clock at night had supper on the table.
James Macdonald, of Knockow, Kingsburgh's brother, whom we had seen at
Kingsburgh, was there. He shewed me a bond granted by the late Sir
James Macdonald, to old Kingsburgh, the preamble of which does so much
honour to the feelings of that much-lamented gentleman, that I thought
it worth transcribing. It was as follows:--
I, Sir James Macdonald, of Macdonald, Baronet, now, after arriving at
my perfect age, from the friendship I bear to Alexander Macdonald of
Kingsburgh, and in return for the long and faithful services done and
performed by him to my deceased father, and to myself during my
minority, when he was one of my Tutors and Curators; being resolved,
now that the said Alexander Macdonald is advanced in years, to
contribute my endeavours for making his old age placid and
comfortable, therefore he grants him an annuity of fifty pounds
sterling.
Dr Johnson went to bed soon. When one bowl of punch was finished, I
rose, and was near the door, in my way up stairs to bed; but
Corrichatachin said, it was the first time Col had been in his house,
and he should have his bowl; and would not I join in drinking it? The
heartiness of my honest landlord, and the desire of doing social
honour to our very obliging conductor, induced me to sit down again.
Col's bowl was finished; and by that time we were well warmed. A third
bowl was soon made, and that too was finished. We were cordial, and
merry to a high degree; but of what passed I have no recollection,
with any accuracy. I remember calling Corrichatachin by the familiar
appellation of Corri, which his friends do. A fourth bowl was made, by
which time Col, and young M'Kinnon, Corrichatachin's son, slipped away
to bed. I continued a little with Corri and Knockow; but at last I
left them. It was near five in the morning when I got to bed.