In the morning I walked out, and saw a ship, the Margaret of Clyde,
pass by with a number of emigrants on board. It was a melancholy
sight. After breakfast, we went to see what was called a subterraneous
house, about a mile off. It was upon the side of a rising-ground. It
was discovered by a fox's having taken up his abode in it, and in
chasing him, they dug into it. It was very narrow and low, and seemed
about forty feet in length. Near it, we found the foundations of
several small huts, built of stone. Mr M'Queen, who is always for
making every thing as ancient as possible, boasted that it was the
dwelling of some of the first inhabitants of the island, and observed,
what a curiosity it was to find here a specimen of the houses of the
Aborigines, which he believed could be found no where else; and it was
plain that they lived without fire. Dr Johnson remarked, that they who
made this were not in the rudest state; for that it was more difficult
to make it than to build a house; therefore certainly those who made
it were in possession of houses, and had this only as a hiding-place.
It appeared to me, that the vestiges of houses, just by it, confirmed
Dr Johnson's opinion.
From an old tower, near this place, is an extensive view of Loch
Braccadil, and, at a distance, of the isles of Barra and South Uist;
and on the landside, the Cuillin, a prodigious range of mountains,
capped with rocky pinnacles in a strange variety of shapes. They
resemble the mountains near Corte in Corsica, of which there is a very
good print. They make part of a great range for deer, which, though
entirely devoid of trees, is in these countries called a forest.
In the afternoon, Ulinish carried us in his boat to an island
possessed by him, where we saw an immense cave, much more deserving
the title of antrum immane than that of the Sybil described by Virgil,
which I likewise have visited. It is one hundred and eighty feet long,
about thirty feet broad, and at least thirty feet high. This cave, we
were told, had a remarkable echo; but we found none. They said it was
owing to the great rains having made it damp. Such are the excuses by
which the exaggeration of Highland narratives is palliated. There is a
plentiful garden at Ulinish (a great rarity in Sky), and several
trees; and near the house is a hill, which has an Erse name,
signifying 'the hill of strife', where, Mr M'Queen informed us,
justice was of old administered. It is like the mons placiti of Scone,
or those hills which are called laws, such as Kelly law, North Berwick
law, and several others. It is singular that this spot should happen
now to be the sheriff's residence.
We had a very cheerful evening, and Dr Johnson talked a good deal on
the subject of literature. Speaking of the noble family of Boyle, he
said, that all the Lord Orrerys, till the present, had been writers.
The first wrote several plays; the second was Bentley's antagonist;
the third wrote the Life of Swift, and several other things; his son
Hamilton wrote some papers in the Adventurer and World. He told us, he
was well acquainted with Swift's Lord Orrery. He said, he was a
feeble-minded man; that, on the publication of Dr Delany's Remarks on
his book, he was so much alarmed that he was afraid to read them. Dr
Johnson comforted him, by telling him they were both in the right;
that Delany had seen most of the good side of Swift, Lord Orrery most
of the bad. M'Leod asked, if it was not wrong in Orrery to expose the
defects of a man with whom he lived in intimacy. JOHNSON. 'Why no,
sir, after the man is dead; for then it is done historically.' He
added, 'If Lord Orrery had been rich, he would have been a very
liberal patron. His conversation was like his writings, neat and
elegant, but without strength. He grasped at more than his abilities
could reach; tried to pass for a better talker, a better writer, and a
better thinker than he was. There was a quarrel between him and his
father, in which his father was to blame; because it arose from the
son's not allowing his wife to keep company with his father's
mistress. The old lord shewed his resentment in his will--leaving his
library from his son, and assigning, as his reason, that he could not
make use of it.'
I mentioned the affectation of Orrery, in ending all his letters on
the Life of Swift in studied varieties of phrase, and never in the
common mode of 'I am', &c. an observation which I remember to have
been made several years ago by old Mr Sheridan. This species of
affectation in writing, as a foreign lady of distinguished talents
once remarked to me, is almost peculiar to the English. I took up a
volume of Dryden, containing the Conquest of Granada, and several
other plays, of which all the dedications had such studied
conclusions. Dr Johnson said, such conclusions were more elegant, and,
in addressing persons of high rank (as when Dryden dedicated to the
Duke of York), they were likewise more respectful. I agreed that THERE
it was much better: it was making his escape from the royal presence
with a genteel sudden timidity, in place of having the resolution to
stand still, and make a formal bow.
Lord Orrery's unkind treatment of his son in his will, led us to talk
of the dispositions a man should have when dying. I said, I did not
see why a man should act differently with respect to those of whom he
thought ill when in health, merely because he was dying. JOHNSON. 'I
should not scruple to speak against a party, when dying; but should
not do it against an individual. It is told of Sixtus Quintus, that on
his death-bed, in the intervals of his last pangs, he signed
death-warrants.' Mr M'Queen said, he should not do so; he would have
more tenderness of heart. JOHNSON. 'I believe I should not either; but
Mr M'Queen and I are cowards. It would not be from tenderness of
heart; for the heart is as tender when a man is in health as when he
is sick, though his resolution may be stronger. Sixtus Quintus was a
sovereign as well as a priest; and, if the criminals deserved death,
he was doing his duty to the last. You would not think a judge died
ill, who should be carried off by an apoplectick fit while pronouncing
sentence of death. Consider a class of men whose business it is to
distribute death: soldiers, who die scattering bullets. Nobody thinks
they die ill on that account.'
Talking of biography, he said, he did not think that the life of any
literary man in England had been well written. Beside the common
incidents of life, it should tell us his studies, his mode of living,
the means by which he attained to excellence, and his opinion of his
own works. He told us, he had sent Derrick to Dryden's relations, to
gather materials for his Life; and he believed Derrick had got all
that he himself should have got; but it was nothing. He added, he had
a kindness for Derrick, and was sorry he was dead.
His notion as to the poems published by Mr M'Pherson, as the works of
Ossian, was not shaken here. Mr M'Queen always evaded the point of
authenticity, saying only that Mr M'Pherson's pieces fell far short of
those he knew in Erse, which were said to be Ossian's. JOHNSON. 'I
hope they do. I am not disputing that you may have poetry of great
merit; but that M'Pherson's is not a translation from ancient poetry.
You do not believe it. I say before you, you do not believe it, though
you are very willing that the world should believe it.' Mr M'Queen
made no answer to this. Dr Johnson proceeded, 'I look upon M'Pherson's
Fingal to be as gross an imposition as ever the world was troubled
with. Had it been really an ancient work, a true specimen how men
thought at that time, it would have been a curiosity of the first
rate. As a modern production, it is nothing.' He said, he could never
get the meaning of an Erse song explained to him. They told him, the
chorus was generally unmeaning. 'I take it,' said he, 'Erse songs are
like a song which I remember: it was composed in Queen Elizabeth's
time, on the Earl of Essex; and the burthen was
"Radaratoo, radarate, radara tadara tandore."'
'But surely,' said Mr M'Queen, 'there were words to it, which had
meaning.' JOHNSON. 'Why, yes, sir, I recollect a stanza, and you shall
have it:
"O! then bespoke the prentices all,
Living in London, both proper and tall,
For Essex's sake they would fight all.
Radaratoo, radarate, radara, tadara, tandore."'
[Footnote: This droll quotation, I have since found, was from a song
in honour of the Earl of Essex, called 'Queen Elizabeth's Champion',
which is preserved in a collection of Old Ballads, in three volumes,
published in London in different years, between 1720 and 1730. The
full verse is as follows:
Oh! then bespoke the prentices all,
Living in London, both proper and tall,
In a kind letter sent straight to the Queen,
For Essex's sake they would fight all.
Raderer too, tandaro te,
Raderer, tenderer, tan do re.]
When Mr M'Queen began again to expatiate on the beauty of Ossian's
poetry, Dr Johnson entered into no further controversy, but, with a
pleasant smile, only cried, 'Ay, ay; Radaratoo, radarate.'