Monday, 13th September

The room where we lay was a celebrated one. Dr Johnson's bed was the

very bed in which the grandson of the unfortunate King James the

Second [Footnote: I do not call him the Prince of Wales, or the

Prince, because I am quite satisfied that the right which the House of

Stuart had to the throne is extinguished. I do not call him the

Pretender, because it appears to me as an insult to one who is still

alive, and, I suppose, thinks very differently. It may be a

parliamentary expression; but it is not a gentlemanly expression. I

KNOW, and I exult in having it in my power to tell, that the ONLY

PERSON in the world who is intitled to be offended at this delicacy,

thinks and feels as I do; and has liberality of mind and generosity of

sentiment enough to approve of my tenderness for what even HAS BEEN

Blood Royal. That he is A PRINCE by COURTESY, cannot be denied;

because his mother was the daughter of Sobiesky, king of Poland. I

shall, therefore, ON THAT ACCOUNT ALONE, distinguish him by the name

of PRINCE CHARLES EDWARD.] lay, on one of the nights after the failure

of his rash attempt in 1745-6, while he was eluding the pursuit of the

emissaries of government, which had offered thirty thousand pounds as

a reward for apprehending him. To see Dr Samuel Johnson lying in that

bed, in the isle of Sky, in the house of Miss Flora Macdonald, struck

me with such a group of ideas as it is not easy for words to describe,

as they passed through the mind. He smiled and said, 'I have had no

ambitious thoughts in it.' [Footnote: This perhaps, was said in

allusion to some lines ascribed to Pope, on his lying, at John Duke of

Argyle's, at Adderbury, in the same bed in which Wilmot, Earl of

Rochester, had slept.

With no poetick ardour fir'd,

I press the bed where Wilmot lay.

That here he liv'd; or here expir'd.

Begets no numbers, grave or gay.]

The room was decorated with a great variety of maps and prints. Among

others, was Hogarth's print of Wilkes grinning, with the cap of

liberty on a pole by him. That too was a curious circumstance in the

scene this morning; such a contrast was Wilkes to the above group. It

reminded me of Sir William Chambers's Account of Oriental Gardening,

in which we are told all odd, strange, ugly, and even terrible

objects, are introduced, for the sake of variety; a wild extravagance

of taste which is so well ridiculed in the celebrated Epistle to him.

The following lines of that poem immediately occurred to me;

Here too, O king of vengeance! in thy fane,

Tremendous Wilkes shall rattle his gold chain.

Upon the table in our room I found in the morning a slip of paper, on

which Dr Johnson had written with his pencil these words:

Quantum cedat virtutibus aurum.

[Footnote: With virtue weigh'd, what worthless trash is gold!]

What he meant by writing them I could not tell. [Footnote: Since the

first edition of this book, an ingenious friend has observed to me,

that Dr Johnson had probably been thinking on the reward which was

offered by government for the apprehension of the grandson of King

James II and that he meant by these words to express his admiration of

the Highlanders, whose fidelity and attachment had resisted the golden

temptation that had been held out to them.] He had caught cold a day

or two ago, and the rain yesterday having made it worse, he was become

very deaf. At breakfast he said, he would have given a good deal

rather than not have lain in that bed. I owned he was the lucky man;

and observed, that without doubt it had been contrived between Mrs

Macdonald and him. She seemed to acquiesce; adding, 'You know young

BUCKS are always favourites of the ladies.' He spoke of Prince Charles

being here, and asked Mrs Macdonald, 'WHO was with him? We were told,

madam, in England, there was one Miss Flora Macdonald with him.' She

said, 'they were very right'; and perceiving Dr Johnson's curiosity,

though he had delicacy enough not to question her, very obligingly

entertained him with a recital of the particulars which she herself

knew of that escape, which does so much honour to the humanity,

fidelity, and generosity, of the Highlanders. Dr Johnson listened to

her with placid attention, and said, 'All this should be written

down.'

From what she told us, and from what I was told by others personally

concerned, and from a paper of information which Rasay was so good as

to send me, at my desire, I have compiled the following abstract,

which, as it contains some curious anecdotes, will, I imagine not be

uninteresting to my readers, and even, perhaps, be of some use to

future historians.

Prince Charles Edward, after the battle of Culloden, was conveyed to

what is called the Long Island, where he lay for some time concealed.

But intelligence having been obtained where he was, and a number of

troops having come in quest of him, it became absolutely necessary for

him to quit that country without delay. Miss Flora Macdonald, then a

young lady, animated by what she thought the sacred principle of

loyalty, offered, with the magnanimity of a heroine, to accompany him

in an open boat to Sky, though the coast they were to quit was guarded

by ships. He dressed himself in women's clothes, and passed as her

supposed maid, by the name of Betty Bourke, an Irish girl. They got

off undiscovered, though several shots were fired to bring them to,

and landed at Mugstot, the seat of Sir Alexander Macdonald. Sir

Alexander was then at Fort Augustus, with the Duke of Cumberland; but

his lady was at home. Prince Charles took his post upon a hill near

the house. Flora Macdonald waited on Lady Margaret, and acquainted her

of the enterprise in which she was engaged. Her ladyship, whose active

benevolence was ever seconded by superior talents, shewed a perfect

presence of mind, and readiness of invention, and at once settled that

Prince Charles should be conducted to old Rasay, who was himself

concealed with some select friends. The plan was instantly

communicated to Kingsburgh, who was dispatched to the hill to inform

the Wanderer, and carry him refreshments. When Kingsburgh approached,

he started up, and advanced, holding a large knotted stick, and in

appearance ready to knock him down, till he said, 'I am Macdonald of

Kingsburgh, come to serve your highness.' The Wanderer answered, 'It

is well,' and was satisfied with the plan.

Flora Macdonald dined with Lady Margaret, at whose table there sat an

officer of the army, stationed here with a party of soldiers, to watch

for Prince Charles in case of his flying to the isle of Sky. She

afterwards often laughed in good humour with this gentleman, on her

having so well deceived him.

After dinner, Flora Macdonald on horseback, and her supposed maid, and

Kingsburgh, with a servant carrying some linen, all on foot, proceeded

towards that gentleman's house. Upon the road was a small rivulet

which they were obliged to cross. The Wanderer, forgetting his assumed

sex, that his clothes might not be wet, held them up a great deal too

high. Kingsburgh mentioned this to him, observing, it might make a

discovery. He said he would be more careful for the future. He was as

good as his word; for the next brook they crossed, he did not hold up

his clothes at all, but let them float upon the water. He was very

awkward in his female dress. His size was so large, and his strides so

great, that some women whom they met reported that they had seen a

very big woman, who looked like a man in woman's clothes, and that

perhaps it was (as they expressed themselves) the PRINCE, after whom

so much search was making.

At Kingsburgh he met with a most cordial reception; seemed gay at

supper, and after it indulged himself in a cheerful glass with his

worthy host. As he had not had his clothes off for a long time, the

comfort of a good bed was highly relished by him, and he slept soundly

till next day at one o'clock.

The mistress of Corrichatachin told me, that in the forenoon she went

into her father's room, who was also in bed, and suggested to him her

apprehensions that a party of the military might come up, and that his

guest had better not remain here too long. Her father said, 'Let the

poor man repose himself after his fatigues; and as for me, I care not,

though they take off this old grey head ten or eleven years sooner

than I should die in the course of nature.' He then wrapped himself in

the bed-clothes, and again fell fast asleep.

On the afternoon of that day, the Wanderer, still in the same dress,

set out for Portree, with Flora Macdonald and a man servant. His shoes

being very bad, Kingsburgh provided him with a new pair, and taking up

the old ones, said, 'I will faithfully keep them till you are safely

settled at St James's. I will then introduce myself by shaking them at

you, to put you in mind of your night's entertainment and protection

under my roof.' He smiled, and said, 'Be as good as your word!'

Kingsburgh kept the shoes as long as he lived. After his death, a

zealous Jacobite gentleman gave twenty guineas for them. Old Mrs

Macdonald, after her guest had left the house, took the sheets in

which he had lain, folded them carefully, and charged her daughter

that they should be kept unwashed, and that, when she died, her body

should be wrapped in them as a winding sheet. Her will was religiously

observed.

Upon the road to Portree, Prince Charles changed his dress, and put on

man's clothes again; a tartan short coat and a waistcoat, with

philibeg and short hose, a plaid, and a wig and bonnet.

Mr Donald M'Donald, called Donald Roy, had been sent express to the

present Rasay, then the young laird, who was at that time at his

sister's house, about three miles from Portree, attending his brother,

Dr Macleod, who was recovering of a wound he had received at the

battle of Culloden. Mr M'Donald communicated to young Rasay the plan

of conveying the Wanderer to where old Rasay was; but was told that

old Rasay had fled to Knoidart, a part of Glengary's estate. There was

then a dilemma what should be done. Donald Roy proposed that he should

conduct the Wanderer to the main land; but young Rasay thought it too

dangerous at that time, and said it would be better to conceal him in

the island of Rasay, till old Rasay could be informed where he was,

and give his advice what was best. But the difficulty was, how to get

him to Rasay. They could not trust a Portree crew, and all the Rasay

boats had been destroyed, or carried off by the military except two

belonging to Malcolm M'Leod, which he had concealed somewhere.

Dr Macleod being informed of this difficulty, said he would risk his

life once more for Prince Charles; and it having occurred, that there

was a little boat upon a fresh water lake in the neighbourhood, young

Rasay and Dr Macleod, with the help of some women, brought it to the

sea, by extraordinary exertion, across a Highland mile of land, one

half of which was bog, and the other a steep precipice.

These gallant brothers, with the assistance of one little boy, rowed

the small boat to Rasay, where they were to endeavour to find Captain

M'Leod, as Malcolm was then called, and get one of his good boats,

with which they might return to Portree, and receive the Wanderer; or,

in case of not finding him, they were to make the small boat serve,

though the danger was considerable.

Fortunately, on their first landing, they found their cousin Malcolm,

who, with the utmost alacrity, got ready one of his boats, with two

strong men. John M'Kenzie, and Donald M'Friar. Malcolm, being the

oldest man, and most cautious, said, that as young Rasay had not

hitherto appeared in the unfortunate business, he ought not to run any

risk; but that Dr Macleod and himself, who were already publickly

engaged, should go on this expedition. Young Rasay answered, with an

oath, that he would go, at the risk of his life and fortune. 'In God's

name then,' said Malcolm, 'let us proceed.' The two boatmen, however,

now stopped short, till they should be informed of their destination;

and M'Kenzie declared he would not move an oar till he knew where they

were going. Upon which they were both sworn to secrecy; and the

business being imparted to them, they were eager to put off to sea

without loss of time. The boat soon landed about half a mile from the

inn at Portree.

All this was negotiated before the Wanderer got forward to Portree.

Malcolm M'Leod, and M'Friar, were dispatched to look for him. In a

short time he appeared, and went into the publick house. Here Donald

Roy, whom he had seen at Mugstot, received him, and informed him of

what had been concerted. He wanted silver for a guinea, but the

landlord had only thirteen shillings. He was going to accept of this

for his guinea; but Donald Roy very judiciously observed, that it

would discover him to be some great man; so he desisted. He slipped

out of the house, leaving his fair protectress, whom he never again

saw; and Malcolm Macleod was presented to him by Donald Roy, as a

captain in his army. Young Rasay and Dr Macleod had waited, in

impatient anxiety, in the boat. When he came, their names were

announced to him. He would not permit the usual ceremonies of respect,

but saluted them as his equals.

Donald Roy staid in Sky, to be in readiness to get intelligence, and

give an alarm in case the troops should discover the retreat to Rasay;

and Prince Charles was then conveyed in a boat to that island in the

night. He slept a little upon the passage, and they landed about

day-break. There was some difficulty in accommodating him with a

lodging, as almost all the houses in the island had been burnt by

soldiery. They repaired to a little hut, which some shepherds had

lately built, and having prepared it as well as they could, and made a

bed of heath for the stranger, they kindled a fire, and partook of

some provisions which had been sent with him from Kingsburgh. It was

observed, that he would not taste wheat-bread, or brandy, while

oat-bread and whisky lasted; 'for these,' said he, 'are my own

country's bread and drink'. This was very engaging to the Highlanders.

Young Rasay being the only person of the company that durst appear

with safety, he went in quest of something fresh for them to eat; but

though he was amidst his own cows, sheep, and goats, he could not

venture to take any of them for fear of a discovery, but was obliged

to supply himself by stealth. He therefore caught a kid, and brought

it to the hut in his plaid, and it was killed and drest, and furnished

them a meal which they relished much. The distressed Wanderer, whose

health was now a good deal impaired by hunger, fatigue, and watching,

slept a long time, but seemed to be frequently disturbed. Malcolm told

me he would start from broken slumbers, and speak to himself in

different languages, French, Italian, and English. I must however

acknowledge, that it is highly probable that my worthy friend Malcolm

did not know precisely the difference between French and Italian. One

of his expressions in English was, 'O God! Poor Scotland!'

While they were in the hut, M'Kenzie and M'Friar, the two boatmen,

were placed as sentinels upon different eminences; and one day an

incident happened, which must not be omitted. There was a man

wandering about the island, selling tobacco. Nobody knew him, and he

was suspected to be a spy. M'Kenzie came running to the hut, and told

that this suspected person was approaching. Upon which the three

gentlemen, young Rasay, Dr Macleod, and Malcom, held a council of war

upon him, and were unanimously of opinion that he should instantly be

put to death. Prince Charles, at once assuming a grave and even severe

countenance, said, 'God forbid that we should take away a man's life,

who may be innocent, while we can preserve our own.' The gentlemen

however persisted in their resolution, while he as strenuously

continued to take the merciful side. John M'Kenzie, who sat watching

at the door of the hut, and overheard the debate, said in Erse, 'Well,

well; he must be shot. You are the king, but we are the parliament,

and will do what we choose.' Prince Charles, seeing the gentlemen

smile, asked what the man had said, and being told it in English, he

observed that he was a clever fellow, and, notwithstanding the

perilous situation in which he was, laughed loud and heartily. Luckily

the unknown person did not perceive that there were people in the hut,

at least did not come to it, but walked on past it, unknowing of his

risk. It was afterwards found out that he was one of the Highland

army, who was himself in danger. Had he come to them, they were

resolved to dispatch him; for, as Malcolm said to me, 'We could not

keep him with us, and we durst not let him go. In such a situation, I

would have shot my brother, if I had not been sure of him.' John

M'Kenzie was at Rasay's house, when we were there.[Footnote: This old

Scottish Member of Parliament, I am Informed, is still living (1785).]

About eighteen years before, he hurt one of his legs when dancing, and

being obliged to have it cut off, he now was going about with a wooden

leg. The story of his being a Member of Parliament is not yet

forgotten. I took him out a little way from the house, gave him a

shilling to drink Rasay's health, and led him into a detail of the

particulars which I have just related. With less foundation, some

writers have traced the idea of a parliament, and of the British

constitution, in rude and early times. I was curious to know if he had

really heard, or understood, any thing of that subject, which, had he

been a greater man, would probably have been eagerly maintained. 'Why,

John,' said I, 'did you think the king should be controuled by a

parliament?' He answered, 'I thought, sir, there were many voices

against one.'

The conversation then turning on the times, the Wanderer said, that to

be sure, the life he had led of late was a very hard one; but he would

rather live in the way he now did, for ten years, than fall into the

hands of his enemies. The gentlemen asked him, what he thought his

enemies would do with him, should he have the misfortune to fall into

their hands. He said, he did not believe they would dare to take his

life publickly, but he dreaded being privately destroyed by poison or

assassination. He was very particular in his inquiries about the wound

which Dr Macleod had received at the battle of Culloden, from a ball

which entered at one shoulder, and went cross to the other. The doctor

happened still to have on the coat which he wore on that occasion. He

mentioned, that he himself had his horse shot under him at Culloden;

that the ball hit the horse about two inches from his knee, and made

him so unruly that he was obliged to change him for another. He threw

out some reflections on the conduct of the disastrous affair at

Culloden, saying, however, that perhaps it was rash in him to do so. I

am now convinced that his suspicions were groundless; for I have had a

good deal of conversation upon the subject with my very worthy and

ingenious friend, Mr Andrew Lumisden, who was under secretary to

Prince Charles, and afterwards principal secretary to his father at

Rome, who, he assured me, was perfectly satisfied both of the

abilities and honour of the generals who commanded the highland army

on that occasion. Mr Lumisden has written an account of the three

battles in 1745-6, at once accurate and classical. Talking of the

different Highland corps, the gentlemen who were present wished to

have his opinion which were the best soldiers. He said, he did not

like comparisons among those corps: they were all best.

He told his conductors, he did not think it advisable to remain long

in any one place; and that he expected a French ship to come for him

to Lochbroom, among the Mackenzies. It then was proposed to carry him

in one of Malcolm's boats to Lochbroom, though the distance was

fifteen leagues coastwise. But he thought this would be too dangerous,

and desired that at any rate, they might first endeavour to obtain

intelligence. Upon which young Rasay wrote to his friend, Mr M'Kenzie

of Applecross, but received an answer, that there was no appearance of

any French ship.

It was therefore resolved that they should return to Sky, which they

did, and landed in Strath, where they reposed in a cow-house belonging

to Mr Niccolson of Scorbreck. The sea was very rough, and the boat

took in a good deal of water. The Wanderer asked if there was danger,

as he was not used to such a vessel. Upon being told there was not, he

sung an Erse song with much vivacity. He had by this time acquired a

good deal of the Erse language.

Young Rasay was now dispatched to where Donald Roy was, that they

might get all the intelligence they could; and the Wanderer, with much

earnestness, charged Dr Macleod to have a boat ready, at a certain

place about seven miles off, as he said he intended it should carry

him upon a matter of great consequence; and gave the doctor a case,

containing a silver spoon, knife, and fork, saying, 'keep you that

till I see you', which the doctor understood to be two days from that

time. But all these orders were only blinds; for he had another plan

in his head, but wisely thought it safest to trust his secrets to no

more persons than was absolutely necessary. Having then desired

Malcolm to walk with him a little way from the house, he soon opened

his mind, saying, 'I deliver myself to you. Conduct me to the Laird of

M'Kinnon's country.' Malcolm objected that it was very dangerous, as

so many parties of soldiers were in motion. He answered. 'There is

nothing now to be done without danger.' He then said, that Malcolm

must be the master, and he the servant; so he took the bag, in which

his linen was put up, and carried it on his shoulder; and observing

that his waistcoat, which was of scarlet tartan, with a gold twist

button, was finer than Malcolm's, which was of a plain ordinary

tartan, he put on Malcolm's waistcoat, and gave him his; remarking at

the same time, that it did not look well that the servant should be

better dressed than the master.

Malcolm, though an excellent walker, found himself excelled by Prince

Charles, who told him, he should not much mind the parties that were

looking for him, were he once but a musquet shot from them; but that

he was somewhat afraid of the highlanders who were against him. He was

well used to walking in Italy, in pursuit of game; and he was even now

so keen a sportsman, that, having observed some partridges, he was

going to take a shot; but Malcolm cautioned him against it, observing

that the firing might be heard by the tenders who were hovering upon

the coast.

As they proceeded through the mountains, taking many a circuit to

avoid any houses, Malcolm, to try his resolution, asked him what they

should do, should they fall in with a party of soldiers: he answered.

'Fight to be sure!' Having asked Malcolm if he should be known in his

present dress, and Malcolm having replied he would, he said, 'Then

I'll blacken my face with powder.' 'That,' said Malcolm, 'would

discover you at once.'

'Then,' said he, 'I must be put in the greatest dishabille possible.'

So he pulled off his wig, tied a handkerchief round his head, and put

his night-cap over it, tore the ruffles from his shirt, took the

buckles out of his shoes, and made Malcolm fasten them with strings;

but still Malcolm thought he would be known. 'I have so odd a face,'

said he, 'that no man ever saw me but he would know me again.'

He seemed unwilling to give credit to the horrid narrative of men

being massacred in cold blood, after victory had declared for the army

commanded by the Duke of Cumberland. He could not allow himself to

think that a general could be so barbarous.

When they came within two miles of M'Kinnon's house, Malcolm asked if

he chose to see the laird. 'No,' said he, 'by no means. I know

M'Kinnon to be as good and as honest a man as any in the world, but he

is not fit for my purpose at present. You must conduct me to some

other house; but let it be a gentleman's house.' Malcolm then

determined that they should go to the house of his brother-in-law, Mr

John M'Kinnon, and from thence be conveyed to the main land of

Scotland, and claim the assistance of Macdonald of Scothouse. The

Wanderer at first objected to this, because Scothouse was cousin to a

person of whom he had suspicions. But he acquiesced in Malcolm's

opinion.

When they were near Mr John M'Kinnon's house, they met a man of the

name of Ross, who had been a private soldier in the Highland army. He

fixed his eyes steadily on the Wanderer in his disguise, and having at

once recognized him, he clapped his hands, and exclaimed, 'Alas! is

this the case?' Finding that there was now a discovery, Malcolm asked,

'What's to be done?' 'Swear him to secrecy,' answered Prince Charles.

Upon which Malcolm drew his dirk, and on the naked blade, made him

take a solemn oath, that he would say nothing of his having seen the

Wanderer, till his escape should be made publick.

Malcolm's sister, whose house they reached pretty early in the

morning, asked him who the person was that was along with him. He said

it was one Lewis Caw, from Crieff, who being a fugitive like himself,

for the same reason, he had engaged him as his servant, but that he

had fallen sick. 'Poor man!' said she, 'I pity him. At the same time

my heart warms to a man of his appearance.' Her husband was gone a

little way from home; but was expected every minute to return. She set

down to her brother a plentiful Highland breakfast. Prince Charles

acted the servant very well, sitting at a respectful distance, with

his bonnet off. Malcolm then said to him, 'Mr Caw, you have as much

need of this as I have; there is enough for us both: you had better

draw nearer and share with me.' Upon which he rose, made a profound

bow, sat down at table with his supposed master, and eat very

heartily. After this there came in an old woman, who, after the mode

of ancient hospitality, brought warm water, and washed Malcolm's feet.

He desired her to wash the feet of the poor man who attended him. She

at first seemed averse to this, from pride, as thinking him beneath

her, and in the periphrastick language of the highlanders and the

Irish, said warmly, 'Though I wash your father's son's feet, why

should I wash his father's son's feet?' She was however persuaded to

do it.

They then went to bed, and slept for some time; and when Malcolm

awaked, he was told that Mr John M'Kinnon, his brother-in-law, was in

sight. He sprang out to talk to him before he shoulld see Prince

Charles. After saluting him, Malcolm, pointing to the sea, said,

'What, John, if the prince should be prisoner on board one of those

tenders?' 'God forbid!' replied John. 'What if we had him here?' said

Malcolm. 'I wish we had,' answered John; 'we should take care of him.'

'Well, John,' said Malcolm, 'he is in your house.' John, in a

transport of joy, wanted to run directly in, and pay his obeisance;

but Malcolm stopped him, saying, 'Now is your time to behave well, and

do nothing that can discover him.' John composed himself, and having

sent away all his servants upon different errands, he was introduced

into the presence of his guest, and was then desired to go and get

ready a boat lying near his house, which, though but a small leaky

one, they resolved to take, rather than go to the Laird of M'Kinnon.

John M'Kinnon, however, thought otherwise; and upon his return told

them, that his chief and Lady M'Kinnon were coming in the laird's

boat. Prince Charles said to his trusty Malcolm. 'I am sorry for this,

but must make the best of it.' M'Kinnon then walked up from the shore,

and did homage to the Wanderer. His lady waited in a cave, to which

they all repaired, and were entertained with cold meat and wine. Mr

Malcolm M'Leod being now superseded by the Laird of M'Kinnon, desired

leave to return, which was granted him, and Prince Charles wrote a

short note, which he subscribed 'James Thompson', informing his

friends that he had got away from Sky, and thanking them for their

kindness; and he desired this might be speedily conveyed to young

Rasay and Dr Macleod, that they might not wait longer in expectation

of seeing him again. He bade a cordial adieu to Malcolm, and insisted

on his accepting of a silver stock-buckle, and ten guineas from his

purse, though, as Malcolm told me, it did not appear to contain above

forty. Malcolm at first begged to be excused, saying, that he had a

few guineas at his service; but Prince Charles answered, 'You will

have need of money. I shall get enough when I come upon the main

land.'

The Laird of M'Kinnon then conveyed him to the opposite coast of

Knoidart. Old Rasay, to whom intelligence had been sent, was crossing

at the same time to Sky; but as they did not know of each other, and

each had apprehensions, the two boats kept aloof.

These are the particulars which I have collected concerning the

extraordinary concealment and escapes of Prince Charles, in the

Hebrides. He was often in imminent danger. The troops traced him from

the Long Island, across Sky, to Portree, but there lost him.

Here I stop, having received no farther authentic information of his

fatigues and perils before he escaped to France. Kings and subjects

may both take a lesson of moderation from the melancholy fate of the

House of Stuart; that kings may not suffer degradation and exile, and

subjects may not be harrassed by the evils of a disputed succession.

Let me close the scene on that unfortunate House with the elegant and

pathetick reflections of Voltaire, in his Histoire Generale. 'Que les

hommes prives,' says that brilliant writer, speaking of Prince

Charles, 'qui se croyent malheureux, jettent les yeux sur ce prince et

ses ancetres.'

In another place he thus sums up the sad story of the family in

general:

II n'y a aucun exemple dans l'histoire d'une maison si longtems

infortunee. Le premier des Rois d'Ecosse, qui eut le nom de Jacques,

apres avoir ete dix-huit ans prisonnier en Angleterre, mourut

assassine, avec sa femme, par la main de ses sujets. Jacques II, son

fils, fut tue a vingt-neuf ans en combattant centre les Anglois.

Jacques III, mis en prison par son peuple, fut tue ensuite par les

revoltes, dans une battaille. Jacques IV perit dans un combat qu'il

perdit. Marie Stuart, sa petite fille, chassee, de son trone, fugitive

en Angleterre, ayant langui dix-huit ans en prison, se vit condamnee a

mort par des juges Anglais, et eut la tete tranchee. Charles I, petit

fils de Marie, Roi d'Ecosse et d'Angleterre, vendu par les Ecossois,

et juge a mort par les Anglais, mourut sur un echauffaut dans la place

publique. Jacques, son fils, septieme du nom, et deuxieme en

Angleterre, fut chasse de ses trois royaumes; et pour comble de

malheur on contesta a son fils sa naissance; le fils ne tenta de

remonter sur le trone de ces peres, que pour faire perir ses amis par

des bourreaux; et nous avons vu le Prince Charles Edouard, reunuissant

en vain les vertus de ses peres, et le courage du Roy Jean Sobieski,

son ayeul maternel, executer les exploits et essuyer les malheurs les

plus incroyables. Si quelque chose justifie ceux qui croyent une

fatalite a laquelle rien ne peut se soustraire, c'est cette suite

continuelle de malheurs qui a persecute la maison de Stuart, pendant

plus de trois-cent annees.

The gallant Malcolm was apprehended in about ten days after they

separated, put aboard a ship and carried prisoner to London. He said,

the prisoners in general were very ill treated in their passage; but

there were soldiers on board who lived well, and sometimes invited him

to share with them: that he had the good fortune not to be thrown into

jail, but was confined in the house of a messenger, of the name of

Dick. To his astonishment, only one witness could be found against

him, though he had been so openly engaged; and therefore, for want of

sufficient evidence, he was set at liberty. He added, that he thought

himself in such danger, that he would gladly have compounded for

banishment. Yet, he said, he should never be so ready for death as he

then was. There is philosophical truth in this. A man will meet death

much more firmly at one time than another. The enthusiasm even of a

mistaken principle warms the mind, and sets it above the fear of

death; which in our cooler moments, if we really think of it, cannot

but be terrible, or at least very awful.

Miss Flora Macdonald being then also in London, under the protection

of Lady Primrose, that lady provided a post-chaise to convey her to

Scotland, and desired she might choose any friend she pleased to

accompany her. She chose Malcolm. 'So,' said he, with a triumphant

air, 'I went to London to be hanged, and returned in a post-chaise

with Miss Flora Macdonald.'

Mr Macleod of Muiravenside, whom we saw at Rasay, assured us that

Prince Charles was in London in 1759, and that there was then a plan

in agitation for restoring his family. Dr Johnson could scarcely

credit this story, and said, there could be no probable plan at that

time. Such an attempt could not have succeeded, unless the King of

Prussia had stopped the army in Germany; for both the army and the

fleet would, even without orders, have fought for the King, to whom

they had engaged themselves.

Having related so many particulars concerning the grandson of the

unfortunate King James the Second; having given due praise to fidelity

and generous attachment, which, however erroneous the judgement may

be, are honourable for the heart; I must do the highlanders the

justice to attest, that I found every where amongst them a high

opinion of the virtues of the King now upon the throne, and an honest

disposition to be faithful subjects to his majesty, whose family had

possessed the sovereignty of this country so long, that a change, even

for the abdicated family, would now hurt the best feelings of all his

subjects.

The abstract point of right would involve us in a discussion of remote

and perplexed questions; and after all, we should have no clear

principle of decision. That establishment, which, from political

necessity, took place in 1688, by a breach in the succession of our

kings, and which, whatever benefits may have accrued from it,

certainly gave a shock to our monarchy, the able and constitutional

Blackstone, wisely rests on the solid footing of authority: 'Our

ancestors having most indisputably a competent jurisdiction to decide

this great and important question, and having, in fact decided it, it

is now become our duty, at this distance of time, to acquiesce in

their determination.' [Footnote: Commentaries on the Laws of England,

Book I. chap. 3.]

Mr Paley, the present Archdeacon of Carlisle, in his Principles of

Moral and Political Philosophy, having, with much clearness of

argument, shewn the duty of submission to civil government to be

founded neither on an indefeasible jus divinum, nor on COMPACT, but on

EXPEDIANCY, lays down this rational position:

Irregularity in the first foundation of a state, or subsequent

violence, fraud, or injustice, in getting possession of the supreme

power, are not sufficient reasons for resistance, after the government

is once peaceably settled. No subject of the British Empire conceives

himself engaged to vindicate the justice of the Norman claim or

conquest, or apprehends that his duty in any manner depends upon that

controversy. So likewise, if the house of Lancaster, or even the

posterity of Cromwell, had been at this day seated upon the throne of

England, we should have been as little concerned to enquire how the

founder of the family came there. [Footnote: Book VI. chap. 3. Since I

have quoted Mr Archdeacon Paley upon one subject, I cannot but

transcribe, from his excellent work, a distinguished passage in

support of the Christian Revelation. After shewing, in decent but

strong terms, the unfairness of the INDIRECT attempts of modern

infidels to unsettle and perplex religious principles, and

particularly the irony, banter, and sneer, of one whom he politely

calls 'an eloquent historian', the archdeacon thus expresses himself:

'Seriousness is not constraint of thought; nor levity, freedom. Every

mind which wishes the advancement of truth and knowledge, in the most

important of all human researches, must abhor this licentiousness, as

violating no less the laws of reasoning than the rights of decency.

There is but one description of men to whose principles it ought to be

tolerable. I mean that class of reasoners who can see LITTLE in

Christianity even supposing it to be true. To such adversaries we

address this reflection. Had Jesus Christ delivered no other

declaration than the following, "The hour is coming in the which all

that are in the graves shall hear his voice, and shall come forth,

--they that have done well unto the resurrection of life, and they

that have done evil unto the resurrection of damnation," he had

pronounced a message of inestimable importance, and well worthy of

that splendid apparatus of prophecy and miracles with which his

mission was introduced and attested--a message in which the wisest of

mankind would rejoice to find an answer to their doubts, and rest to

their inquiries. It is idle to say that a future state had been

discovered already. It had been discovered as the Copernican System

was; it was one guess amongst many. He alone discovers who PROVES; and

no man can prove this point but the teacher who testifies by miracles

that his doctrine comes from God' (Book V. chap. 9).

If infidelity be disingenuously dispersed in every shape that is

likely to allure, surprise, or beguile the imagination--in a fable, a

tale, a novel, a poem, in books of travels, of philosophy, of natural

history, as Mr Paley has well observed--I hope it is fair in me thus

to meet such poison with an unexpected antidote, which I cannot doubt

will be found powerful.]

In conformity with this doctrine, I myself, though fully persuaded

that the House of Stuart had originally no right to the crown of

Scotland; for that Baliol, and not Bruce, was the lawful heir; should

yet have thought it very culpable to have rebelled, on that account,

against Charles the First, or even a prince of that house much nearer

the time, in order to assert the claim of the posterity of Baliol.

However convinced I am of the justice of that principle, which holds

allegiance and protection to be reciprocal, I do however acknowledge,

that I am not satisfied with the cold sentiment which would confine

the exertions of the subject within the strict line of duty. I would

have every breast animated with the FERVOUR of loyalty; with that

generous attachment which delights in doing somewhat more than is

required, and makes 'service perfect freedom'. And, therefore, as our

most gracious Sovereign, on his accession to the throne, gloried in

being born a Briton; so, in my more private sphere, Ego me nunc

denique natum gratulor. I am happy that a disputed succession no

longer distracts our minds; and that a monarchy, established by law,

is now so sanctioned by time, that we can fully indulge those feelings

of loyalty which I am ambitious to excite. They are feelings which

have ever actuated the inhabitants of the Highlands and the Hebrides.

The plant of loyalty is there in full vigour, and the Brunswick graft

now flourishes like a native shoot. To that spirited race of people I

may with propriety apply the elegant lines of a modern poet, on the

'facile temper of the beauteous sex':

Like birds new-caught, who flutter for a time.

And struggle with captivity in vain;

But by-and-by they rest, they smooth their plumes.

And to NEW MASTERS sing their former notes. [Footnote: Agis, a

tragedy, by John Home.]

Surely such notes are much better than the querulous growlings of

suspicious Whigs and discontented Republicans.

Kingsburgh conducted us in his boat, across one of the lochs, as they

call them, or arms of the sea, which flow in upon all the coasts of

Sky, to a mile beyond a place called Grishinish. Our horses had been

sent round by land to meet us. By this sail we saved eight miles of

bad riding. Dr Johnson said, 'When we take into the computation what

we have saved, and what we have gained, by this agreeable sail, it is

a great deal.' He observed, 'it is very disagreeable riding in Sky.

The way is so narrow, one only at a time can travel, so it is quite

unsocial; and you cannot indulge in meditation by yourself, because

you must be always attending to the steps which your horse takes.'

This was a just and clear description of its inconveniencies.

The topick of emigration being again introduced, Dr Johnson said, that

'a rapacious chief would make a wilderness of his estate'. Mr Donald

M'Queen told us, that the oppression, which then made so much noise,

was owing to landlords listening to bad advice in the letting of their

lands; that interested and designed people flattered them with golden

dreams of much higher rents than could reasonably be paid; and that

some of the gentlemen tacksmen, or upper tenants, were themselves in

part the occasion of the mischief, by over-rating the farms of others.

That many of the tacksmen, rather than comply with exorbitant demands,

had gone off to America, and impoverished the country, by draining it

of its wealth; and that their places were filled by a number of poor

people, who had lived under them, properly speaking, as servants, paid

by a certain proportion of the produce of the lands, though called

sub-tenants. I observed, that if the men of substance were once

banished from a Highland estate, it might probably be greatly reduced

in its value; for one bad year might ruin a set of poor tenants, and

men of any property would not settle in such a country, unless from

the temptation of getting land extremely cheap; for an inhabitant of

any good county in Britain, had better go to America than to the

Highlands or the Hebrides. Here, therefore was a consideration that

ought to induce a chief to act a more liberal part, from a mere motive

of interest, independent of the lofty and honourable principle of

keeping a clan together, to be in readiness to serve his king. I

added, that I could not help thinking a little arbitrary power in the

sovereign, to control the bad policy and greediness of the chiefs,

might sometimes be of service. In France a chief would not be

permitted to force a number of the king's subjects out of the country.

Dr Johnson concurred with me, observing, that 'were an oppressive

chieftain a subject of the French king, he would probably be

admonished by a LETTER'.

During our sail, Dr Johnson asked about the use of the dirk, with

which he imagined the highlanders cut their meat. He was told, they

had a knife and fork besides, to eat with. He asked, how did the women

do? and was answered, some of them had a knife and fork too; but in

general the men, when they had cut their meat, handed their knives and

forks to the women, and they themselves eat with their fingers. The

old tutor of Macdonald always eat fish with his fingers, alledging

that a knife and fork gave it a bad taste. I took the liberty to

observe to Dr Johnson, that he did so. 'Yes,' said he; 'but it is

because I am short-sighted, and afraid of bones, for which reason I am

not fond of eating many kinds of fish, because I must use my fingers.'

Dr M'Pherson's Dissertations on Scottish Antiquities, which he had

looked at when at Corrichatachin, being mentioned, he remarked, that

'you might read half an hour, and ask yourself what you had been

reading: there were so many words to so little matter, that there was

no getting through the book'. As soon as we reached the shore, we took

leave of Kingsburgh, and mounted our horses. We passed through a wild

moor, in many places so soft that we were obliged to walk, which was

very fatiguing to Dr Johnson. Once he had advanced on horseback to a

very bad step. There was a steep declivity on his left, to which he

was so near, that there was not room for him to dismount in the usual

way. He tried to alight on the other side, as if he had been a 'young

buck' indeed, but in the attempt he fell at his length upon the

ground; from which, however, he got up immediately without being hurt.

During this dreary ride, we were sometimes relieved by a view of

branches of the sea, that universal medium of connection amongst

mankind. A guide, who had been sent with us from Kingsburgh, explored

the way (much in the same manner as, I suppose, is pursued in the

wilds of America) by observing certain marks known only to the

inhabitants. We arrived at Dunvegan late in the afternoon. The great

size of the castle, which is partly old and partly new, and is built

upon a rock close to the sea, while the land around it presents

nothing but wild, moorish, hilly, and craggy appearances, gave a rude

magnificence to the scene. Having dismounted, we ascended a flight of

steps, which was made by the late Macleod, for the accomodation of

persons coming to him by land, there formerly being, for security, no

other access to the castle but from the sea; so that visitors who came

by the land were under the necessity of getting into a boat, and

sailed round to the only place where it could be approached. We were

introduced into a stately dining-room, and received by Lady Macleod,

mother of the laird, who, with his friend Talisker, having been

detained on the road, did not arrive till some time after us.

We found the lady of the house a very polite and sensible woman, who

had lived for some time in London, and had there been in Dr Johnson's

company. After we had dined, we repaired to the drawing-room, where

some of the young ladies of the family, with their mother, were at

tea. This room had formerly been the bed-chamber of Sir Roderick

Macleod, one of the old lairds; and he chose it, because, behind it,

there was a considerable cascade, the sound of which disposed him to

sleep. Above his bed was this inscription: SIR RORIE M'LEOD OF

DUNVEGAN, KNIGHT. GOD SEND GOOD REST! Rorie is the contraction of

Roderick. He was called Rorie More, that is, great Rorie, not from his

size, but from his spirit. Our entertainment here was in so elegant a

style, and reminded my fellow-traveller so much of England, that he

became quite joyous. He laughed, and said, 'Boswell, we came in at the

wrong end of this island.' 'Sir,' said I, 'it was best to keep this

for the last.' He answered, 'I would have it both first and last.'

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