is a number of circles, slide the cutter towards the edge of the
work by turning the screw of the slide rest, then, to make the outer
circle of the border, turn the small nut, G, of the cutter six times
round; put a double angular tool into the tool box, screw it firmly,
adjust your cutter by the screws, H H, to the proper distance, and
stop your wheel with the steel key at 360. Cut one circle, alter
your wheel thirty numbers, cut another circle, then thirty numbers
more, till the twelve circles are all cut. This done, alter the wheel
fifteen numbers, which will make the circle cut half through two of
the former ones, then move 30, as before, till the twelve are done.
For the small inner circles turn the nut, G, of the cutter two turns
back, to reduce the size, and move 30 as before. The pattern in the
middle is still circles, though differently arranged. Draw back the
cutter till a little past the middle of the work, then unscrew the
nut, G, fifteen turns, cut one circle, move the brass wheel 15, cut
another; move 15, cut another; then move 45, cut another; move 15,
then 15, and so on till all are finished.
Third pattern.—Set the cutter at five turns, and move five numbers on
the brass wheel for every circle. For the middle pattern, turn the
nut of the cutter eight times, move ninety numbers on the wheel, till
four circles are cut; then move 45, cut another; then 90 again. To
make the small circles, turn the nut, G, backward two turns, and move
90 as before, for the four first circles; then move 45; then 90 to
the end.
[Illustration: _Plate 6._]
Fourth.—The border of this pattern is the same as the one in No. 3,
only you place a piece of wood about a quarter of an inch in depth
_across_ the bed of the lathe, letting it pass half under the slide
rest; screw the rest down firmly, and proceed as above. By thus
raising the rest in a slanting position, half the circle only is cut,
which has a very pleasing effect. For the centre pattern, set the
cutter at a small circle, cut one in the middle, having the wheel
fixed at 360. Then move the brass wheel of the slide rest, plate
5, three numbers for each circle; these done, return to the middle
circle and continue the same to the other end. Then move the brass
wheel of the lathe to 45, and repeat as above, three numbers for each
circle, till the next row is finished; then again move forty-five
numbers on the large wheel; and so on to the end.
Fifth pattern.—Set the cutter at a large circle, the brass wheel at
360. Move 5 for four circles, then move 15, then 4 four times more,
then 15 again, and so on to the end. For the middle, set the cutter
to a small circle, and move the brass wheel of the lathe 90 four
times.
Sixth pattern.—Set the cutter to the largest circle it will make,
begin in the middle of the work, set the wheel at 360, and move ten
every time.
To assist the beginner, a drawing is given of the wheel, supposing
the largest number to be 360, A, plate 4. By this the numbers are all
arranged; a table of the divisions is also given; for on the proper
and accurate calculation of the numbers depends the exactness of
the patterns. The plate on the wheel divided at 144 is the plate for
marking half-circles and arcs, as in plate 12, fig. 3, which shall be
described hereafter. These patterns are very beautiful, and, from the
arcs being gradually reduced in size, they have a curious and elegant
appearance, but they cannot be worked _without_ an eccentric chuck.
THE DRILL.
The drill is a most useful auxiliary to the eccentric cutter, not
only for drilling holes, which it does with great nicety and speed,
but also for making mouldings and patterns of various kinds. Unlike
the cutter, which moves either in a large or small circle, the
drill can only work upon its own centre, and therefore the size of
the pattern depends upon the tool placed in it, its position being
regulated by the screw in the sliding rest, into which it slips
like the cutter. It is turned by a rope exactly the same as in the
directions already given for the eccentric cutter, and greatly
resembles it in shape, except at the end, A, plate 7, which is made
just to receive the tool, and a small screw keeps it firm. Suppose
you wish to ornament anything—say, the pen-holder, plate 9—with
concave mouldings, as in A. Having set the rest, by the aid of the
T square, exactly in the same slanting direction, put a round-ended
tool, No. 3, into the drill, set it to the proper distance, fix the
brass wheel at 360, cut a round hole; move the wheel to 72, cut
another, and so on till five are drilled; then, without altering the
rest, put in a smaller round-ended drill, hold it by means of the
lever well up to the work, make the large wheel go very quick, and
slowly turn the screw of the slide rest, so as to impel the drill
which ever way you wish. Do not cut too deep at first, or you will
break the tool; if a great depth is required, go over in the same
line three or four times. This done, count 72, as before, and proceed
the same; the pattern will have the appearance of the pen-holder
in the drawing. The end, B, after being turned to the shape, is
ornamented in small holes, that resemble a honeycomb, in the same
manner, with a round-ended drill; counting so as to make them fit
nicely between each other. To do this, you must be able to subdivide
your first numbers. Thus, suppose you drill a round hole at 1, 40,
80, and so on till you come to 360, these numbers can be divided by
beginning the next row (which must be begun the breadth of the tool
from the former one, by turning the slide-rest screw half, or a whole
turn, according to the breadth of the tool) at 20, then count forty
numbers as before; but if you had taken forty-five instead of forty
for your number, you could not have divided it evenly in the second
row, so as to make the holes intersect each other. Be very careful
to remember how many times you turn the slide-rest wheel, that each
cut may be of equal length. There are generally about four dozen
tools belonging to the drill, of various sizes, but of the shapes
given in plate 7. Nos. 1 and 2 drill large or small holes, as for
instance, round the sides of a turned pincushion, or needle-book, for
the stitches to go through; 3 is used to make concave mouldings, or
to cut quite through the work in straight lines, as in the lighter
case, E, plate 9. This pattern looks very pretty, and is quite easy,
if your work is turned sufficiently thin; it should be lined with
coloured velvet. No. 4 makes concave mouldings flat at the bottom;
these tools are also used to cut round dots: 5, cuts small or large
beadings, which give great lightness and finish to the work. Having
made a moulding with the hollow tool No. 2 of the slide rest, choose
a beading tool that just fits the moulding, put it in your drill, set
it to cut sufficiently deep to be quite round at the top; having cut
one, count by the brass wheel the proper distance, to make them fit
close, but without one spoiling the shape of the other; the round
dots on the bottom of the lighter case are intended to represent
these beads. Tool No. 6 cuts mouldings of the same shape as the
drawing. In using this and the tools Nos. 7 and 8, be careful, after
the first cut, where you place them for the second, to make them fit;
and in using all the drill tools, make the lathe go as quick as you
can, but move your _tool_ very _slowly_, and keep the drill slide
well oiled.
LIST OF NUMBERS ON THE SMALL WHEEL AND ECCENTRIC CHUCK.
+——————————————————————————————————————————++————————————————————+
| LATHE WHEEL. || CHUCK WHEEL. |
+——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————+
|No. of| No. of | ||No. of| No. of | ||No. of| No. of | |
|divi- |cuts to | ||divi- |cuts to | ||divi- |cuts to | |
|sions |complete| ||sions |complete| ||sions |complete| |
| for | the |Odd || for | the |Odd || for | the |Odd |
| one | circle.|nos.|| one | circle.|nos.|| one | circle.|nos.|
| cut. | | || cut. | | || cut. | | |
+——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————+
| 1 | 360 | — || 1 | 96 | — || 1 | 120 | — |
| 2 | 180 | — || 2 | 48 | — || 2 | 60 | — |
| 3 | 120 | — || 3 | 32 | — || 3 | 40 | — |
| 4 | 90 | — || 4 | 24 | — || 4 | 30 | — |
| 5 | 72 | — || 5 | 19 | 1 || 5 | 24 | — |
| 6 | 60 | — || 6 | 16 | — || 6 | 20 | — |
| 7 | 51 | 3 || 7 | 13 | 5 || 7 | 17 | 1 |
| 8 | 45 | — || 8 | 12 | — || 8 | 15 | — |
| 9 | 40 | — || 9 | 10 | 6 || 9 | 13 | 3 |
| 10 | 36 | — || 10 | 9 | 6 || 10 | 12 | — |
| 11 | 32 | 8 || 11 | 8 | 8 || 11 | 10 | 10 |
| 12 | 30 | — || 12 | 8 | — || 12 | 10 | — |
| 13 | 27 | 9 || 13 | 7 | 5 || 13 | 9 | 3 |
| 14 | 25 | 10 || 14 | 6 | 12 || 14 | 8 | 8 |
| 15 | 24 | — || 15 | 6 | 6 || 15 | 8 | — |
| 16 | 22 | 8 || 16 | 6 | — || 16 | 7 | 8 |
| 17 | 21 | 3 || 17 | 5 | 11 || 17 | 7 | 1 |
| 18 | 20 | — || 18 | 5 | 6 || 18 | 6 | 12 |
| 19 | 18 | 18 || 19 | 5 | 1 || 19 | 6 | 6 |
| 20 | 18 | — || 20 | 4 | 16 || 20 | 6 | — |
| 21 | 17 | 3 || 21 | 4 | 12 || 21 | 5 | 15 |
| 22 | 16 | 8 || 22 | 4 | 8 || 22 | 5 | 10 |
| 23 | 15 | 15 || 23 | 4 | 4 || 23 | 5 | 5 |
| 24 | 15 | — || 24 | 4 | — || 24 | 5 | — |
| 25 | 14 | 10 || 25 | 3 | 21 || 25 | 4 | 20 |
| 26 | 13 | 22 || 26 | 3 | 18 || 26 | 4 | 16 |
| 27 | 13 | 9 || 27 | 3 | 15 || 27 | 4 | 12 |
| 28 | 12 | 24 || 28 | 3 | 12 || 28 | 4 | 8 |
| 29 | 12 | 12 || 29 | 3 | 9 || 29 | 4 | 4 |
| 30 | 12 | — || 30 | 3 | 6 || 30 | 4 | — |
| 31 | 11 | 19 || 31 | 3 | 3 || 31 | 3 | 27 |
| 32 | 11 | 8 || 32 | 3 | — || 32 | 3 | 24 |
| 33 | 10 | 30 || 33 | 2 | 30 || 33 | 3 | 21 |
| 34 | 10 | 20 || 34 | 2 | 28 || 34 | 3 | 18 |
| 35 | 10 | 10 || 35 | 2 | 26 || 35 | 3 | 15 |
| 36 | 10 | — || 36 | 2 | 24 || 36 | 3 | 12 |
+——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————++——————+————————+————+
[Illustration: _Plate 7._]
These tools are also useful for cutting out the edges of work in
vandykes, as in the top of the lighter case, E, for which pattern the
tool No. 8 was used, the gimped edge being cut with No. 2; the end of
the needle-case, D, in plate 9, is done with a round-ended drill, No.
3, in the same manner as directed for the end of the pen-holder.
In the patterns Nos. 1 and 6 of plate 11, the straight lines near the
centre are cut with the round-ended drill.
GONEOMETER.
All the eccentric tools require the greatest care in sharpening, and
the above ingenious machine has been invented for this purpose; it is
represented at P, in plate 4. The upper part, 1, is a plate of brass,
the outer edge, 2, is graduated as high as 50 each way, beginning at
the tongue, 3. Beyond the numbers is a groove, in which one end of
the tool slide, 4, slips, and is firmly fixed (so as to point to any
of the numbers that suit the angle of the tool) by a nut underneath.
The whole plate, 1, is raised and lowered at pleasure by a small
hinge at 5, and the requisite height is fixed and settled by counting
the numbers on the steel tongue, 3. Underneath is another brass bed
with two feet, upon which the machine rests, while the front part
leans forwards and rests upon the end, 5. The box that contains the
goneometer has three drawers in it; the first is lined with brass,
except for about three inches in width, which space is covered with
fine Turkey stone. To use this machine, take out this drawer, lay the
feet of the goneometer on the brass, put the slide-rest tool, No. 4,
into the tool box, screw it firm, then slide the tool box along the
groove till it arrives at the proper angle, say 45; fix it with the
nut underneath, then raise the whole brass plate, 1, sliding it along
the tongue, 3, till at the exact height necessary for the tool to
touch the Turkey stone. Rub it backwards and forwards upon it with
oil. When one side is sharp, move the tool slide to the opposite
angle, to sharpen the other. The small eccentric tools are placed in
the steel case, U, and the case fits into the tool slide.
CIRCULAR REST.
The rest we have already described, called the Parallel Rest, works,
as its name sufficiently expresses, in a straight line; it is
therefore useless for ornamenting spherical objects, and the circular
rest has lately been invented to supply this deficiency. It is a most
ingenious contrivance, and perfectly fulfils the purpose for which it
was invented.
[Illustration: _Plate 8._]
The bed, A A, is the same as in the parallel rest, and screws
in the same way to the bed of the lathe. B is a brass socket and
pillar, which support the bed C, in which the tool box slides; they
are formed in the same piece with the lower bed, L L, and firmly
fixed into the lower part, which is grooved, by four brass-headed
screws, N N. The grooves enable the whole socket and tool box to
slide backwards and forwards on the bed of steel, D D, and by means
of the screw which passes through it the workman regulates the
advance or retreat of the rest to or from the work in a _straight
line_, while the lower part remains stationary. The small wheel, E,
is graduated, and turned by a key, to enable the turner to count the
distance. F is a steel spindle, which works in two brass collars,
G G; about half-way down. The spindle is formed into a screw, O,
which turns upon the brass wheel, H, and by moving the nut, J,
moves the whole rest in a circular direction, in the same way that
the screw in the steel bed, D D, impels it in a straight line: by
this ingenious contrivance all objects that are round or spherical
can be ornamented: such as balls, the globular sides of vases, or
small baskets, in every variety of pattern. The learner will easily
discover the proper method of using this rest, which is very simple
in its mechanism and use. The nut, K, is for setting the tool slider
at different angles, the same as in the parallel or sliding rest; the
tools to be employed are those of the above-mentioned rest.
THE VERTICAL, OR UNIVERSAL CUTTER.
PLATE 7.
This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest, is different from
the others; and, as its name denominates, the patterns it can cut
are almost endless, for it may be turned in any direction. The bed
of the slide is the same as with the drill; at the end, No. 1, is a
screw, which, when turned by the key, B, inclines the tool-holder, 2,
to any angle that may be required, and it is regulated by the lines
on the brass plate, 3, which are marked by a small steel point; so
that if you wish to cut out a pattern slanting to the right, and
another to correspond slanting to the left, you have only to mark
the number on the plate, where you cut the first, and then with the
key move the cutter to the same position on the opposite side. When
the tool-holder, 2, stands straight, as in the plate, the tool
cuts horizontally: when it is screwed down to the last line on the
plate, it cuts perpendicularly, but the cut always scoops out; and by
putting the tool as far out of the holder as you can, the cut will
be larger, and the scoop deeper. The back support of the pulley,
4, moves with the tool-holder; and the pulleys, 5, correspond with
each; the back one is turned in the same direction as the front one,
by unloosing the screw, 6. The gut, after passing over the pulley
on the over-head frame, comes through the two back pulleys of the
cutter and round the front one, as in the plate; but when the cutter
is screwed flat, a short cord, the same as that used for the drill,
is sufficient; and the back pulleys are then not necessary. This tool
requires constant oiling at D D, for the friction is very great; it
also demands much care and delicacy in using it, as it must not be
incautiously thrust against the wood, or it will stick fast, and
not turn round. There are about four dozen tools, all of the shapes
given in the plate, but of various sizes. This cutter slides into the
slide rest, and the depth of the cut is, as usual, regulated by the
screws at the end, and the cutter is brought to the work by the aid
of the same lever as is used for the drill and eccentric cutter. The
patterns cut by this tool are counted and regulated by the numbers
on the brass wheel, as with the others. When the turner has once
tried it, he will readily discover its advantages for all kinds of
ornamental work, particularly for the sides of boxes, needle-cases,
and many other articles; but it is needless to give many drawings of
the patterns, as they much depend upon the taste of the turner.
One beautiful design for a lighter case, or small basket, is worked
with this cutter with a flat-ended tool. Turn the work very thin,
chuck it firmly, make one cut deep enough to allow the tool _just_
to cut through, and no more. Count thirty on the brass wheel of the
lathe every time; the next row make the cut deeper, so that the
opening will be larger, then move 60. By this means a piece of ivory
will be left standing out, with openings cut between, which, when
lined with coloured velvet, looks light and elegant. This row count
sixty every time; the next, thirty, as at the beginning.
[Illustration: _Plate 9._]
The needle-case in plate 9, fig. K, is entirely ornamented with this
cutter in a variety of patterns. Figs. 1, 3, 4, and 8, are worked
with the flat and round-ended tools; 2, with the tool No. 6; 5 with
the tool 3; 7, with 4; and 6 with No. 6.
The bottle, B, is also ornamented with the same tools. It is hollow
down the neck, and is intended to contain a tin or glass of water;
in the stopper is glued a small camel’s-hair brush, which rests in
the water, and is meant to be used for wetting postage-stamps, and
fastening them upon letters. The bottom of the neck unscrews at fig.
1, and the part below it is hollowed out like a box, to hold the
stamps. The neck is ornamented in steps. Set the cutter quite flat,
facing the side of the work; use the tool No. 5; cut one line, move
the brass wheel of the lathe just far enough to make the second cut
join the first, and the same all round. In the next row make the
first cut half-way between the others; thus, if you have begun at
the numbers, 1, 6, 12, in the second row begin at 3, then go to 9,
then to 15, and so on. Every row of steps begins half-way through the
former ones, and for each row move the cutter on the slide rest the
breadth of the tool. The convex moulding at the bottom of the neck is
done by putting one of the hollow tools of the sliding rest into a
handle, and rounding the ornament with it. The other patterns are all
done with the same cutter, by placing the tools at different angles.
In the same plate, 9, the two patterns F and G are very beautiful,
they are worked with the eccentric cutter. F resembles the scales of
fish lying one over another: put the most angular tool, No. 5, (of
the cutter tools), into the cutter; describe a circle from the edge
of the middle line to the outer one; cut one circle very _deep_, move
ten numbers on the brass wheel of the lathe, and so on to the end.
The pattern, G, is worked exactly the same, only a less angular tool,
No. 4, is used, and fewer numbers are counted: it resembles leaves,
one lying over the other.
The stopper of the bottle, B, is also ornamented with this cutter,
and with an angular tool. First turn the stopper quite circular, (the
knob at the top must be glued in afterwards). Set the sliding rest
at a convenient distance, and place under it one of the slide-rest
tools, so as to raise it in an uneven manner; screw the rest firmly,
and set the circle just large enough to encircle half the stopper.
By this means the tool cuts the UNDER part of the circle, and passes
over the other half: this pattern must be cut very deep, and about
five numbers be counted between each cut on the brass wheel of the
lathe.
D is another pattern for a stopper; it is worked with a round-ended
drill. Cut the holes rather deep, and as near as you can to one
another, only leaving a very little thin shell of ivory between them,
and the pattern will resemble a honeycomb. The lighter case, E, is
ornamented with the drill and vertical cutter. Turn the upper part
very thin, then drill long lines quite through the ivory, leaving
a space between each; this looks light and elegant, if lined with
coloured paper. The base is cut in steps with the vertical cutter;
count twenty for each cut; the second row, make each cut between the
former ones, moving for each row the breadth of the tool. The top is
cut out in leaves with the drill tool No. 8.
To sharpen all these tools, use the goneometer, taking care that you
fix it exactly at the proper angle, by counting the position by the
numbers. If you do not place the tool just at the right angle, it
will cut the patterns quite crooked.
ECCENTRIC CHUCK.
“The centre mov’d—a circle straight succeeds;
Another still, and still another spreads.”
[Illustration: _Plate 10._]
Perhaps the most useful of all the additions to the lathe is this
chuck, for by its aid the turner can alter the centre of his work as
he pleases, producing a great variety of circular lines of different
sizes, and other ornaments, which cannot be attempted without it.
The tools are those already described belonging to the slide rest,
which latter, when used with this chuck, assumes quite a different
character than when employed with the eccentric and universal cutters
and the drill. With these three, it merely serves to mark, by aid of
its screw, the distance they require to be from the work, and the
position in which they are to be placed, but does not assist in the
size or form of the patterns to be cut; with the eccentric chuck,
however, it is quite different. The rest marks the _size_ of the
circles, while the chuck fixes their _position_. Thus: suppose you
wish to cut a circle, or series of circles, not as in the pattern,
No. 1, plate 6, which begin from the centre and gradually enlarge,
but like those in No. 3; the slide rest must be set to the proper
position, to enable the tool to cut the requisite circle, and then
the chuck must be screwed down till the tool arrives opposite the
exact place where the pattern is to be worked. With this chuck the
over-head frame is no longer used; the brass and fly-wheels being
employed together, as in common turning, the chuck having a wheel of
its own by which to regulate the patterns. In the annexed plate, fig.
1, is a front view of the eccentric chuck; fig. 2 is the same seen
sideways.
A A are two brass plates, with a screw at the back of them, as shown
at P, fig. 2; by this screw it fastens on to the mandrel of the lathe
like a common chuck. A A are so shaped as to admit of D sliding up
and down them, and the four screws enable the slide to be tightened
or loosened. Down the middle of the chuck is a screw with a very fine
thread; it is turned at either end by the square head, 3, and thus
D slides up and down at pleasure, but cannot in any way get out of
its proper position, and, above all, can never shake in its bed. E
is a brass wheel divided into 120 teeth, upon which the distances
are calculated, the same as on the other brass wheel; in the middle
of it, F, is a screw, the same in size as that on the mandrel, upon
which the chuck that holds the work must be screwed. The wheel, E,
has a spring screw, which, by turning back the spring, H, enables
you to move the wheel round as many numbers as you wish, and the
steel point, K, marks the one you wish to set it at. L is a small
wheel with four numbers marked upon it; by setting it at O, the steel
screw passes from line to line of the wheel, E, fig. 2; by turning
it one line further, it stops at ¼; another line, it stops at ½; and
a third, at ⅓; thus enabling you to cut your patterns as fine and
delicate as you like.
The square heads, 3 3, are placed at each end of the chuck, so that
the plate D can traverse the whole length, and thus enable you to
ornament a square or an oblong piece of work; both heads have four
numbers marked upon them, by which you regulate the motions of the
chuck. For instance, when D D is screwed up level with the black
line O, the screw F will be exactly in the centre of the lathe. Now,
suppose the tool in the slide rest is set to cut a very small circle,
and you wish, having done that one, to cut several others of the
same size round it, thus, [Illustration: small wheel] you must turn
the chuck down one turn by counting the numbers on the square head,
No. 3; and having cut one circle in the proper place, count as many
numbers on the brass plate, E, as are necessary to make them fit
properly. Should you wish to make a second row of circles larger than
the first, besides turning down the chuck, you must, to enlarge them,
turn the screw of the slide-rest one turn forwards. All the patterns
already given for the eccentric cutter can be done equally well with
the eccentric chuck, except the border pattern in No. 4, which can
only be worked by the cutter. Patience, calculation, and attention
will enable you to perform the most beautiful, minute, and intricate
patterns with the eccentric chuck; but though I have endeavoured
to give many specimens, when printed they only in a slight degree
convey an idea of the real beauty of this kind of turning; the
depth of the cut will wholly alter the appearance of a pattern,
and the same circles cut with another shaped tool present quite a
different appearance; in all, however, there is one rule, which must
never be forgotten—viz., be very careful to make your wood or ivory
_perfectly_ smooth, flat, and even, before attempting to ornament
it, or you will be disappointed by finding that your circles are cut
deep in one part and are scarcely visible in another; also remember
to _line_ it, as directed when treating of the slide-rest, for this
gives much effect to the work.
[Illustration: _Plate 11._]