55. NATURE OF FROZEN DESSERTS.--Frozen desserts were formerly confined
almost entirely to warm weather, but they are now used during the entire
year and served on almost any occasion. They are without doubt the
daintiest dessert that can be served and are popular with almost every
one. A very ordinary meal becomes much more attractive when a frozen
dessert is served with it, and a dainty luncheon or an elaborate dinner
seems incomplete without a dessert of this nature. In reality, it is
quite impossible to serve, in either hot or cold weather, any dessert
that is as pleasing as an ice or an ice cream of some kind.
56. In addition to being delicious and finding favor with most persons,
frozen desserts occur in unlimited variety. They include ice creams of
various kinds, frozen custards and punches, sherbets, ices, frappés,
mousses, parfaits, and biscuits. Recipes for several varieties of each
of these kinds are given in this Section, and it will therefore not be a
difficult matter to select a frozen dessert that will be suitable for
any meal in which it may be served. The preparation of frozen desserts,
however, need not be confined to a certain limited number of recipes, as
a recipe may be devised to suit almost any occasion or condition. For
instance, if there are certain fruits or fruit juices in supply that
should be used, an excellent way in which to utilize them is in a frozen
dessert of some kind. After a little experience, the housewife will find
that she can produce excellent results by merely combining the
ingredients she has on hand or those corresponding with the meal in
which the frozen dessert is to be served.
57. The food value of frozen desserts varies with the ingredients used
in their preparation, it being extremely high in some and very low in
others. Therefore, the particular one to select depends somewhat on the
other dishes in the meal. On the whole, they contain very healthful
ingredients, so that, if they are properly made, they may have a place
in the diets of both children and grown ups, sick persons and well ones.
Whether or not certain individuals should eat frozen desserts is
sometimes a troublesome question. There may be conditions under which
desserts of this kind should not be included in the diet, but these need
not give the housewife any particular concern.
58. Frozen desserts may be purchased ready made, but those made in the
home cost less, are usually more delicious, and can be prepared in
greater variety. As they are not difficult to make and are not
necessarily an expensive dessert, the housewife should often include
them in her meals. Therefore, an ice-cream freezer of a size that will
accommodate the requirements of the members of the family is a good
thing to add to the cookery equipment. Ices and ice creams can be made
in a pail that has a cover and a bail, such as a lard pail, but this is
not a very convenient equipment and does not produce such satisfactory
results as those obtained with a good freezer. Some desserts of this
kind may be frozen without the use of a freezer, but, as a rule, they
contain materials that make them rather expensive.
59. THEORY OF FREEZING.--So that the best results may be secured in the
making of frozen desserts, it is well that the theory of freezing be
thoroughly understood. The two things necessary for the freezing of such
desserts are ice and salt. When these are brought together and the ice
melts, a salt solution is formed, since salt has a tendency to combine
with moisture whenever they come in contact with each other. In order to
obtain this result in the freezing of desserts, it is necessary, of
course, that the ice be melted. The warmth required to make this melting
possible comes from the contents of the can inside the ice-cream
freezer. When this warmth is absorbed by the ice, the cold temperature
released by the melting of the ice passes into the ice-cream mixture.
The result is that the ice tends to become liquid and the contents of
the can solid by the exchange of temperatures. To make the mixture of
uniform consistency, it is usually agitated by means of a dasher during
the freezing process. This incorporates air into the mixture and
consequently makes it light and increases its volume.
60. PROPORTION OF ICE TO SALT.--The ingredients used in the mixture have
much to do with the texture of the ice cream when it is frozen. For
instance, a mixture that is thin and composed largely of water will not
have so smooth a consistency when frozen as a heavier mixture in which
cream or eggs or both are present and a smaller proportion of water is
used. Another important factor in the texture of the finished product is
the proportion of ice to salt, for this has much to do with the length
of time required for freezing the mixture. The smaller the proportion of
salt, the slower will be the freezing process, for the melting of the
ice takes place more slowly; but the result of this slow freezing is a
finer, smoother texture. Granular, coarse-grained frozen desserts, such
as some sherbets and frappés, are frozen with a large proportion of
salt, which permits the freezing to take place more quickly.
61. On this rapidity in freezing also depends to a large extent the
increase in quantity that takes place in the frozen mixture. Any one who
has had experience in making ice cream knows that the can of the freezer
cannot be filled before the freezing is begun or it will overflow during
the freezing process. Even if it is only two-thirds or three-fourths
full, it will be entirely full when the freezing is completed. This
increase depends somewhat on the kind of mixture, as has been stated, as
well as on the way in which the crank of the freezer is turned, but it
is more largely determined by the proportion of ice and salt and
consequently by the length of time required for the freezing. As can be
readily understood, the more turning that is done, the greater will be
the quantity of air incorporated into the mixture and naturally the more
increase in volume.
62. TABLE SHOWING DETAILS OF FREEZING.--As an aid to the housewife in
the making of frozen desserts, Table I is presented. In it are given the
names of the various kinds of frozen desserts, together with the usual
texture of each, the proportion of ice and salt required to freeze each,
the way in which it freezes, and the increase in volume that can be
expected in each. In trying out the recipes that follow, it will be well
for the housewife to refer to this table for the particular dessert that
she is making, for then she will be able to carry out the freezing more
successfully and will understand what to expect in the finished product.