18. Many of the desserts that are served cold come under the head of
custards. These are dishes high in protein and consist of two varieties:
those thickened entirely by eggs and known as _true custards_ and those
in which a starchy material is used for part of the thickening. They may
be cooked by steaming, dry steaming, or baking.
19. In true custards there must be a sufficient number of eggs to
thicken the desired amount of milk, for nothing else produces
thickening. To these two ingredients may be added sweetening in the form
of sugar, sirup, honey, etc. and flavoring of any desirable kind. The
plain custard thus produced makes an excellent dessert and one that is
easily digested. In fact, it can be digested with such ease that it is
used perhaps more frequently in the diets of children and invalids than
any other single dessert. For instance, when it is necessary that eggs
and milk be taken in the diet, they usually become monotonous after a
time, but a little variety may be added to the diet by serving them in
the form of custard. While this is an expensive dessert when eggs are
high in price, its value is such that it should be prepared frequently
for children in spite of its cost.
20. Although custards are considered to decrease in quality as fewer
eggs are used and starch in some form is added for thickening, many
excellent custard desserts are made in this way. Then, too, plain
custard is often utilized in the making of desserts, such as tapioca,
rice, and bread puddings. In such an event, fewer eggs are used and the
starchy material is depended on for a certain amount of the thickening.
Because the starchy foods used are generally cheaper than eggs, custard
desserts that rely partly on starch for their thickening are more
economical than those thickened entirely by eggs. They are also
different in composition and texture, being lower in protein because of
a smaller proportion of eggs and higher in carbohydrate because of
additional starch; nevertheless, they are delicious desserts and find
much favor.
21. For its thickness, or solidity, a custard depends largely on the
thickening property of the protein material in the eggs. Here, again, as
in the preparation of other foods, only a certain proportion of milk and
eggs will thicken, or solidify, upon being cooked. In general, the
correct proportion for a plain custard is _1 egg to 1 cupful of milk_.
So important is this proportion that it should be memorized. Before the
eggs are added to the milk, they are, of course, beaten, but their
beating is a matter of little consequence, for they are used merely to
supply thickening and give richness and not to produce lightness.
Therefore, they need only be mixed well and beaten slightly, as any
increase in the amount of the beating adds nothing.
The sweetening and flavoring used in custards should be in sufficient
quantity to suit the tastes of those who are to eat the dessert.
However, the usual proportion of sugar is _1 tablespoonful to 1 egg and
1 cupful of milk_. A tiny pinch of salt added to a mixture of this kind
always improves its flavor and should never be omitted.
Because of the various ways of making custards, they differ somewhat
when they are done. They may be thin enough to pour or they may be set
and so thick that they can be cut. The consistency of the finished
product depends, of course, on the proportion of the ingredients used
and the method of cookery adopted.