_Hon. C. A. Dodge._
Two letters by Tallmadge B. Word, written from Oregon Territory in
1846 and 1847. See "Documents" of preceding number of THE QUARTERLY
for an account of the author:
CLATSOP, Clatsop Co., Oregon Territory,
February 19, 1846.
DEAR BROTHER: It was with pleasure I received yours of March
8, 1845; also one from Cyrel at the same time (Nov. last,
1845), and was happy to hear of general health, and that I
am blest with the same, and have been ever since I have been
in this territory; and, in fact, I have not had an hour's
sickness for five years past. You ask me to give a sketch of
my travels since I first arrived in Missouri. It is not
possible for me to do so, with any degree of accuracy at
present. Although I have a Journal of much of my trampings,
it is now 200 miles distant, and I will not be able to get
it before our mail starts for the U. S. I have also a daily
journal of our journey to this country, and one of the
weather for the first year I was here, which I sent you by
the return party of 1845, but we have ascertained, that our
letters were all lost, so I am aware you did not receive
mine of '45, but hope it may not keep you from writing in
the spring.
The Ship by which I intended to send you letters, was sold
at the Sandwich Islands, and consequently did not return to
the U. S. Now of my tramp: I will mearly say that I have
ranged over nearly the whole country west of the Missouri
River and east of the Rocky Mountains, from the British line
on the north to the center of New Mexico on the south. The
country is nearly of a sameness, quite a barren, sandy
desert, with the exception of borders of streams, valleys,
mountains, &c. The whole country abounds in game and
Indians--the latter generally hostile. I could tell you of
some long hunting yarns, and Indian fights, but they are of
too little interest to spend time with now; so I will wait
until I take a walk down East, and then some long evening,
over a mug of cider and dish of apples, you shall have them.
I was some of the time in employ of Fur & Trading Co., and
some of my time a free trapper. A hunter's life is a dog's
life, exposed to all kinds of danger and hardships, and but
little gained at last, but men soon get so accustomed to it
that in a short time they fear neither man, musket, or the
D----, and there is so much nature, romance, and excitement
in their way of living, that they soon become much attached
to it, for it is much easier for a white man to become an
Indian, than to reverse the thing. I have been compelled to
[by] hunger to eat mules, horses, dogs, wolves, badgers,
ground hogs, skunks, frogs, crickets, ants, and have been
without food of any kind for six days and nights. Cats,
dogs, or anything else, is right good eating meat at such
times.
At another time we were four days, and three out of the four
compelled to fight our way as we traveled, but hungry men
are fond of fight and fear nothing, and so we walked
through. You may think crickets and ants rather small game
to shoot at, and so it is, but we have another way of taking
them, which is by going in search, early in the morning,
when the crickets (which are in some parts very numerous and
as large as the end of your thumb,) by the coolness of the
air and dew are very stupid, and climb to the top of weeds
in great numbers that the sun may get a fair chance at them;
they are at such times easily captured by jarring them off
into a basket and then roasting them with hot
stones,--feathers, guts, and all,--and make very good
eating--when one gets used to it. The ants are taken by
sticking a stick in the center of their hill, and making a
fire around it, which compels them to ascend the stick, and
from that to the basket or sack; in this way a meal is soon
procured. But those times are all past with me.
I am now where we have plenty to eat and out of many dangers
to which a man is exposed, and I know well how to prize it.
As to how I got here I think I gave you some idea in my
letter of 1844, and as I am not able to give the
particulars, I will say nothing about it, but I will assure
you I am here on Clatsop Plains, at the mouth of the
Columbia River, within three quarters of a mile of the
Pacific Ocean, in a country that when I arrived here was so
thinly populated that I was able to become acquainted with
every white person in the territory; but the two last years
has so increased the population that two fifths are now
strangers to me; 1844 gave by land an emigration of about
1,200; 1845 nearly twice that number; this year we expect
them by the thousands. The people who come here are from all
parts of the globe, but mostly from the western states of
the U. S. A great portion are single men, roving characters,
who are from every place but this, and this they can not
well leave; and the prospects of our infant country are so
flattering that we have no inclination to leave it; at
present almost every man that arrives here, is at once
filled with enterprise, and dives heels over head into
something.
We have now a population of five or six thousand; there is
now in operation six sawmills and five flouring mills, six
stores, exclusive of the Hudson Bay Co., six blacksmith
shops, and three gunsmiths, carpenter shops in any number,
two tan yards, Lawyers, Doctors, and Preachers by the dozen.
We have a legislature, and they have made scores of laws,
the particulars of which you will get in the _Oregon
Spectator_, a paper which is printed at Wellemette Falls,
once in two weeks; the first number came out last week. I
sent you one or two numbers of the first print of the
_Northwest Coast_. I presume you would like to know
something of the situation of our country, the climate,
production, natural resources, &c., of which I will attempt
to give you a slight idea. The general character of the
country is broken and mountainous, but is interspersed with
beautiful valleys. The first I shall introduce to you is the
place of Clatsop; it is very small, but beautiful; it is
bounded on the north by the Columbia, west by the ocean, and
south and east by heavy timbered land; it is about twenty
miles in length by two in breadth; from the sea beach to the
big timber the soil is of the best quality, capable of
producing any vegetation grown in any of the northern or
western states in the U. S. As the wind is nine tenths of
the time from the salt water, I believe it to be one of the
most healthy places on the globe. It is now four years since
the first whites settled here, and there has not been a case
of sickness nor a death as yet, and but ten or fifteen
births, for there is not a woman that has a husband, but
what well fulfills the Commandment by about every year
giving birth to a fine chub, and very often two at a time,
and some instances of women, without husbands, lending a
hand in populating our valuable country, and all owing to
the climate and shellfish (?) which we have in abundance.
The number of families at this place is fourteen, counting
in five bachelor halls. The tide flows from 9 to 12 feet
perpendicular at the mouth of the Columbia. We will now
proceed up the river. Thirteen miles from the bar is old
Astoria, now occupied by the H. B. Co. This place is a
beautiful situation for a town, and will probably be the New
York of Oregon; it has a full view of the whole harbor, and
a vessel can lay at any time in perfect safety. Now three
miles and we come to Tongue Point; this is a narrow point of
land running into the river; a fortification on it could
have full command of the river, as the channel runs near the
point. On we go; heavy timber and broken land on each side
of the river, which is from three to ten miles wide; we now
come to the mill which I told you I was erecting. I will
tell you more of that by and by, but we will go ahead. The
banks of the river heavy timbered and broken, but the soil
rich; we now come to Coulitye [Cowlitz] River, which is
about 200 yards wide at the mouth, comes in on the north
side of the Columbia, about 50 miles from the mouth of the
Columbia. We will ascend this river 15 miles, against a
strong current. The country now opens out into a large
plain, many miles in length and breadth, the soil of the
best quality, beautifully watered, and interspersed with
timber. At the time I first visited these parts there were
but fourteen families of French and half-breeds, but since
that time there has been a number of American families
settled in this section. The valley is one or more hundred
miles, in diameter, and situated on one of the noblest
harbors on our coast, that, is the Puget Sound. Now we will
return to the Columbia, and ascend 40 miles to the
Willemette River, of which you will get an idea by the paper
which I send. Six miles above the Willemette River is
Vancouvers, the principal depot of the Hudson Bay Co.; all
of their shipping ascends to this place, though not without
some difficulty, particularly if the craft draws more than
thirteen feet of water.
In the vicinity of Fort Vancouver there is much fine farming
land. The company has fine farms, and many thousand head of
cattle. Fifty or sixty miles above are the Cascades; it is
where the river crosses the Cascade Mountains, a range
running north and south. East of these mountains is a
country extending many hundred miles in each direction, and
most particularly adapted to grazing. Stock of all kinds can
live here winter and summer without the least care. This is
as far as I have seen the country, though it is said there
is much fine country in the south of the territory, but no
settlements in that section.
Our stock keeps fat through the winter without care; we had
no snow last winter nor this. Buds are now swelling, and
some flowers in bloom. You wished to know where we get saws
to saw our big timber. I brought two, of the longest kind,
with me, and we have since had two from the Hudson Bay Co.,
and three from the States. We have timber of all sizes, so
we take our choice; we have some 16 feet in diameter and 300
feet in length; no mistake. I have measured such. We have
shipped three cargoes of lumber to the Sandwich Islands, for
which we received $20 per thousand feet, clear of freight.
Lumber is, and will be, a great source of wealth to this
country. The Columbia, and its tributaries, are alive with
salmon during the summer months; the Indians take them in
great numbers with spears, nets, and seines; there are many
packed and sent to foreign markets annually.
I am now improving me a farm on Clatsop Plains. I have a
splendid claim of six hundred and forty acres of land, about
fifty acres timber, the rest prairie--laying immediately on
the Pacific. We are all very anxious to hear the result of
the treaty (if one is made) between the _U. S._ and John
Bull. We are very much afraid Uncle will fool away the north
of the Columbia; if he does we shall be _Silux_. We are very
anxious the U. S. should extend her jurisdiction over our
valuable country, and we are nearly out of patience with the
delay. We are not all thieves and runaways, as represented
by the Hon Mr. Mc----, nor our country a booty. Boy, if it
is, it's inferior to none in point of beauty, pleasant
climate, natural resources, and advantages of wealth; and if
the settlers were ever thieves they have wholly reformed,
for it is generally believed that no other colony has ever
equaled this in point of bravery, enterprise, hospitality,
honesty, and morality. There are men who arrived here in
October last who have at this time one hundred acres fenced
and sown to wheat. Now, all we want is a little of Uncle
Sam's care, that capitalists may be safe in investing their
money.
Merchandise is generally high here, owing to the scarcity
and great demand. Salt $1 per bush.; sugar 12½ cts. per lb.;
coffee 25 cts. per lb.; molasses 50 cts. per gal.: tea 50
cts. to $1.50; nails 18 cts.: window glass 10 to 12 cts.
per light; dry goods in proportion; beef, pork, hides,
tallow, and most kinds of produce taken in payment; beef $6
per h.; pork $10; hides $2 apiece by the lot; tallow 8 to
10; butter 20 to 25; wheat 75 cts. to $1; oats 75 cts.;
potatoes 50 cts. per bu.; lumber from 15 to $25 per 1,000
feet; shingles 4 to $5 per 1,000; common laborers $1 per
day, and mechanics $2. You see by the manner of my writing
that I am in great haste, therefore you must allow me to
close.
After you peruse this I want you to enclose it, and, with
love and respect, send it to Cyrel, for I have not a
moment's time to write to him, and I have nothing to say to
him only to be sure he is right and then go ahead; and for
you both, to send me letters every chance, for I value each
letter at five hundred dollars--provided I could get them no
cheaper. Give my love to father, sister, and all inquiring
friends, and should like to see some of you in Oregon.
Yours, most affectionate,
T. B. WOOD.
(I. NASH.--My consent to publish this if you think it of any
interest).
The above letter was written by Tallmadge B. Wood, from Clatsop,
Clatsop County, Oregon Territory, February 19, 1846, to Isaac M. Nash,
his brother-in-law, at Ballston Spa, Saratoga County, New
York.--_Florence E. Baker._
Copy of a letter written from Oregon City, formerly Willemette Falls,
Oregon, December 23, 1847, by Tallmadge B. Wood to his brother-in-law,
Isaac Nash, and sister.--_Florence E. Baker._
OREGON CITY, December 23, '47.
DEAR BROTHER: I avail myself of this opportunity of writing
you a few lines that you may know that I am still in the
land of the living. I received one letter from you by the
arrival of Mr. Shively, being the second one that I have
received from you since I have been in this brush. We, of
course, got news of the fate of the "Oregon Bill" of last
session, and as you may judge was very much disappointed,
but we grin and bear it because there is no other way for us
to do. We are at present in rather an awkward situation;
there has of late been some serious difficulties with the
upper country Indians in which Dr. Whitman, wife and nine
others were murdered.
There were fifty men dispatched last week to protect the
Mission at the Dals, [Dalles]; we have had no news from them
since. There are orders for the raising of five hundred men
to go up and give the scoundrels a wiping out. So you may
say we have the loud cry of war in Oregon; but what is done
here, is done by the voluntary acts of the people and
without pay. And as there is such a diversity of opinions,
as to the best way to proceed, I think there will not be as
much done at present, as we have got so many people here
that it is not so easy for them all to agree as it was in
former times.
This year's emigration was very large. They all got through
with less difficulties than that of last year. There has
been considerable sickness with them. Their disease being
the measles, the disorder is proving quite fatal with the
natives; it was in consequence of this that Dr. Whitman was
killed, as they held a malice against the whites for
bringing the disorder unto the country.
Our legislature being in session, it has authorized Mr. Meek
to go to the United States with dispatches to the
government, informing it of our situation. He starts
to-morrow morning, and it is by him that I send this letter.
It is a general time of good health and spirits, in Oregon,
with the exception of now and then a case of the measles.
Our commerce has much improved within the last year. A large
number of ships have left our port the last season well
ladened.
The winter thus far is very fine, no freezing, and little
rain. Wheat looks well, and great quantity sown. I have sold
my interest in my mill, and also my farm. I am going to put
up salmon next spring, and after the season is over, which
will be in August, I am going to build a mill, as I now have
one of the best sites on the Columbia, and lumbering the
best business in Oregon.
I would write much more, had I time and room on my
sheet--though I am sure it would not be very interesting. Be
sure and send me a letter every time the Ship Whiton sailed
for the U. S. as it will return to this country. Be sure and
avail that chance though I missed it. Give Father my
Respects; tell him I intend on coming to see him once more.
I must scratch a few lines to sisters, so I bid you a
Farewell.
Dear Sisters, I have only room to tell you that I am well. I
Farmed it and did housework last summer, but I guess I don't
do it again soon. There are lots of pretty girls here now,
but I do not get time to get one of them just now, but will
take a year or two, by and by, and attend to these matters.
Frances must write to Cyrel for me, for it is now late and I
haven't time. Give my love to all cousins and inquiring
friends. Write every chance.
Good by, your affectionate brother,
T. B. WOOD.
To _I. Nash_, _S. C. Nash_, _J. A. Wood_.
The above letter was folded, and sent without an envelope:
It was sealed with a red seal; it cost ten cents postage; it
was mailed at St. Joseph, Mo.; it was directed to Isaac
Nash, Ballston Spa, Sarotogo County, N. Y.; it arrived at
Sarotogo Springs June 5th. It was marked _Missent_. This
letter was written on large sheets of pale blue paper with
black ink, and is in good preservation now, 1908.--_Florence
E. Baker._