CHAPTER VI.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

On Monday, Jan. 9, 1860, we formed part of a crowd who had assembled in

the Poet's Corner, Westminster Abbey, to view the burial of the only man

of our generation who, by means of his literary and oratorical efforts,

has won for his brow a coronet. Of Babington Macaulay, as essayist,

poet, orator, historian, statesman, we need not speak. What he was, and

what he did, are patent to all the world. Born in 1800, the son of

Zachary Macaulay, one of the brilliant band of anti-slavery agitators of

which Mr. Wilberforce was the head, young Babington commenced life under

favourable circumstances. At Trinity College, Cambridge, where he was

educated, the world first heard of his wondrous talent. In 1830 he was

returned by Lord Lansdowne for his borough of Calne; the Reform agitation

was then at its height, and how bitterly, and fiercely, and eloquently

Macaulay spoke we remember at this day. Then, in 1834, commenced his

Indian exile, at the end of which he returned to Parliament with a

competency. His Essays in the Edinburgh Review and his History were the

chief business of his life. He might have shone as a poet had he not

betaken himself to prose; but in this department he remained unrivalled,

and the result was riches and fame. On one occasion, it is said, his

publisher gave him a cheque for 20,000 pounds, and he was made by the

Whigs a peer. His burial at Westminster Abbey, at the foot of Addison,

was a fitting climax to his career of wondrous achievement and gorgeous

success. Men most distinguished in literature--in science--in law--in

statesmanship--in divinity--in rank--were present. The funeral was not

as touching as might have been expected. It may be that the choral

service itself interferes with the inner feeling of sadness the death of

such a man arouses in every mind; it may be that the human voice is

inadequate to express the power, and pathos, and majesty of the form of

words used on such occasions; and it is certain that the many ladies

present were dressed in the most unbefitting costumes, and that ribbons,

and bonnets, and dresses of all the colours of the rainbow were quite out

of keeping with the place and the occasion. The saddest sight, the one

most suggestive of deep feeling, was that of one or two ladies, high up

in a recess above the grave. They were real mourners. Indeed, it was

said one of them was the sister of the deceased peer. Lord John Russell

also exhibited an emotion for which the general public will scarce give

him credit. At the grave he was so much overcome, that it seemed as if

he would have fallen had not the Duke of Argyle held him up. Well might

his Lordship be moved to tears. Could he keep from thinking, while

standing there, how soon his own turn would come, and how well and

worthily he, who slept the sleep of death in the plain coffin at his

feet, had fought the battle of the Whigs in their palmy days? We looked

back, as we stood there, to other days. We saw a theatre in Gower Street

filled with intelligent youths. A winter session had been closed: all

its work and competition were over; to the successful candidates prizes

were to be awarded. The fathers and mothers, the friends and sisters of

such had come together from far and near. Seated in a chair was a stout,

mild, genial man, with face somewhat pale, and hair scant and inclined to

grey. He rose, and was received with rapturous applause; he spoke in

plain language--with little action, with a voice rather inclined to be

harsh--of the bright future which rises before the rapt eye of youth. He

spoke--and as he did so, as he mounted from one climax to another, every

young heart filled and warmed with the speaker's theme. That was

Macaulay, just come from India, with an honourable competence, to

consummate the fame as a man he had acquired in younger years. Again, we

thought of that last speech in the House of Commons, when, at an early

hour on a beautiful summer evening, the Parks, and Clubs, and Rotten Row

had been deserted, for it had gone forth to the world that Macaulay was

about to speak. Poor Joseph Hume had moved the adjournment of the

debate, and, as a matter of right, was in possession of the House; but

the calls for Macaulay on all sides were so numerous, that even that most

good-natured of men, as Hume was, grew a little angry and remonstrated;

but it was in vain that he sought the attention of the House: all were

anxious for the next speaker, and no sooner had Hume sat down than

Macaulay delivered, in his hurried feverish way, one of those speeches

which not merely delight, but which influence men's votes and opinions,

and may be read with delight when the occasion which gave rise to them

has long since passed away. We have heard much in favour of competition

in the civil service, at home and in India, since then, but never was the

argument more clearly put--more copiously illustrated, more clothed in

grace and beauty; and then came a few short years of infirmity of body,

of labour with the pen, and sudden death, and the burial at Westminster

Abbey. Out of the thousands standing by the grave, few could ever expect

to see the career of such another genius. He is gone, and we may not

hope to see his work finished. In vain we call up him--

"Who left untold,

The story of Cambuscan bold."

Since then another public funeral has taken place in Westminster Abbey;

only the other day we saw deposited there the ashes of Sir Charles Barry,

and here, as year by year passes over our heads, richer, and dearer, and

wider are the associations which cluster around that venerable pile. I

don't envy the man who can point a sneer at Westminster Abbey; how placid

and beautiful is the outside, how eloquently it speaks to the ambitious

lawyer, the busy merchant, the statesman bent on fame, the beauty armed

for conquest; what a testimony it bears to the religious spirit of the

age which witnessed its erection, and of the brain or brains which

conceived its magnificent design.

The Abbey is open to public inspection between the hours of eleven and

three daily, and also in the summer months between four and six in the

afternoon. The public are not admitted to view the monuments on Good

Friday, Christmas Day, or fast days, or during the hours of Divine

Service. The nave, transept, and cloisters are entirely free. The

charge for admission to the rest of the Abbey, through which you are

accompanied by a guide, is sixpence each person. The entrance is at the

south transept, better known as Poet's Corner. It will do you good to

walk in there any Sunday during Divine Service. The appearance of the

place is singularly striking. The white-robed choristers; the benches

filled with well-dressed people the dark religious columns; the lofty and

fretted roof; the marble monuments and busts looking down on you from

every wall and corner; the gleams of mellow sunlight streaming in from

richly painted windows--all tend to produce an effect such as you can

find nowhere else--an effect of which you must be sensible if you care

not for the rich notes of the organ, or sleep while the parson preaches.

The Abbey, originally a Benedictine monastery--the Minster west of St.

Paul's London--was founded originally in what was called Thorney Island,

by Sebert, King of the East Saxons, 616. The patron Saint, Peter

himself, is said to have consecrated it by night, and in a most

miraculous manner. Till the time of Edward the Confessor the Abbey does

not seem to have made much way; but the meek-minded Prince was led to

give the Abbey a patronage which led to the building becoming what it is.

It seems the Prince had been ill, and vowed to take a journey to the Holy

Land if he should recover. But, as often is the case with vows made in

sickness, the Prince, when well, found it exceedingly inconvenient to

fulfil his vow. The only course left for him was to appeal to the Pope.

The Holy Father, of course, was appealed to, and freed the pious king

from his vow on one condition--that he should spend the money that the

journey would have cost him in some religious building. The Prince, too

happy to be freed from the consequences of this foolish vow, gladly

promised to do so; and, whilst he was considering as to what building he

should favour with his royal patronage, one of the monks of

Westminster--rather an artful man, we imagine--was reported to have had a

wonderful dream, in which no less a personage than St. Peter himself

appeared to him, and charged him to take a message to the King, to the

effect that his celestial saintship hoped he would not overlook the

claims of Westminster. Of course, to so pious a prince as Edward, the

saintly wish was law; and on Westminster were lavished the most princely

sums. Succeeding kings followed in the same steps. Henry III. and his

son, Edward I., rebuilt it nearly as we see it now. It is difficult to

say what the building must have cost its royal patrons. In our own time,

its repairs have amounted to an enormous sum.

As the last resting place of the great, Westminster Abbey must always be

dear to Englishmen. It was a peerage or Westminster Abbey that urged

Nelson on. Old Godfrey Kneller did not rate the honour of lying in

Westminster Abbey quite so highly. "By God," exclaimed the old painter,

"I will not be buried in Westminster! They do bury fools there." It is

difficult to say on what principle the burials there take place. Byron's

monument was refused, though Thorwaldsen was the sculptor; and yet Prior

has a staring one to himself--that Prior whose Chloe was an alehouse

drab, and who was as far inferior to Byron in genius as a farthing

rushlight to the morning star.

Another evil, to which public attention should be drawn, is the expense

attending a funeral there. When Tom Campbell (would that he were alive

to write war lyrics now!) was buried, the fees to the Dean and Chapter

amounted to somewhere between five and six hundred pounds. Surely it

ought not to be so. The Dean and Chapter are well paid enough as it is.

If, reader, pausing on the hallowed ground, you feel inclined to think of

the past, remember that beneath you sleep many English

statesmen,--Clarendon, the great Lord Chatham, Pitt, Fox, and Canning;

that there

"The mighty chiefs sleep side by side.

Drop upon Fox's grave the tear,

'Twill trickle to his rival's bier."

Remember that--

"Bacon there

Gives more than female beauty to a stone,

And Chatham, eloquence to marble life;"

that of poets; Chaucer, Spenser, Ben Jonson, Dryden, Congreve, Addison,

Sheridan, and Campbell, and others, there await the sound of the last

trumpet; that old Sam Johnson there finds rest; that there the brain of a

Newton has crumbled into dust; and, as if to shew that all distinctions

are levelled by death, Mrs. Oldfield, Mrs. Bracegirdle, and other

favourites of the stage, are buried there. As a burial place Westminster

Abbey resembles the world. We jostle one another precisely so in real

life. "The age is grown so picked, that the toe of the peasant comes so

near the heel of the courtier, he galls his kibe."

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