WEAVING THE VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
_Heavy Loom Required—How Long-Sided Effect and Folding Line Are
Obtained—Cloth Construction_
Until recently the soft collar was cut and carved into shape from plain
piece goods. The patented Van Heusen collar has done away with much of
this, for from the loom is produced a fabric properly shaped and formed
for the purpose, and ready to be cut into suitable lengths. It is adapted
to various styles. Clumsy joinings are done away with and a collar is
produced which combines shape, comfort and appearance. Much labor in
collar manufacturing is also eliminated by this method of production.
There have recently been quite a number of factories put on the
production of these goods, and at least one newly organized factory is
devoted exclusively to their manufacture. The main feature in the Van
Heusen collar is that it is woven in such a manner that when it leaves
the loom it is complete in respect of the cloth for the band and outer
part, with provision made for folding, thus doing away with any joining
together of the two parts as formerly.
The formation of a cloth having the novel quality of allowing for a
greater woven length at the outer edge of the collar than at the band,
properly graded throughout so as to meet all the requirements of a collar
in comfort and fit, at the same time providing for the insertion of the
scarf so that it will run easily, and also allowing for the production
of a variety of styles, calls for features in manufacturing that are
different in many respects from the making of a flat fabric.
HEAVY LOOM REQUIRED
The first essential is a loom of sufficient strength and firmness to
withstand the heavy beat of the lay resulting from packing in the
filling, where an aggregate weight of 1,000 pounds for each individual
piece must be carried. The looms which are now being used have from
12 to 16 pieces, so that it will be seen that they must be very rigid
indeed properly to care for the weight carried on the combined pieces,
and maintain uniform picking. In order also to get the requisite shed
opening, the strain on the cams and cam jacks is severe, so that
provision for ample strength at these parts is essential.
CONE-SHAPED TAKE-UP ROLL
The long-sided formation of the cloth is produced by the use of a
cone-shaped take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope
of 1 inch in 6 inches. Above this cone-shaped roll is hung a straight
roll, which swings freely to different angles, so as to take care of the
slack delivered to the take-up roll. It will be noticed that one leg of
the swinging roll is longer than the other, thus allowing the straight
roll to set in proper position over the cone.
At first thought it would seem advisable to provide a reverse cone-shaped
take-up roll, as shown in the illustration, which has a slope of 1
[Transcriber’s Note: It’s possible that a line of text was missing here
from the original printing, as the sentence doesn’t make complete sense]
the impracticability of such an arrangement and the straight roll with a
free movement as described is more desirable. It is also necessary, or at
least advisable, to use a slightly tapered roll on the breast beam, over
which the cloth passes.
WOVEN IN THREE WIDTHS
The fabric woven is made in three widths, 4¼ inches, 4¾ inches and 5¼
inches, with the folding line in different positions in each width, so
as to provide for different styles. The great amount of stock employed
over these widths, and the difference in the take-up between one side
of the web and the other, makes it necessary to divide the warps into
sections and carry considerable weight on each, so as to obtain a perfect
clearance in the shed, and pack the filling in uniformly.
THE WEAVE
The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face,
back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face
and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads
required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.
WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
4¼ Inch 4¾ Inch 5¼ Inch
No. of Threads Weight No. of Threads No. of Threads
Warps (60/2) Carried Warps (60/2) Warps (60/2)
Face 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119
Face 2 82 7 lbs. each 2 92 2 104
Back 1 198 13 lbs. each 1 218 2 238
Back 1 164 12 lbs. each 1 184 2 208
Binder 1 99 10 lbs. each 1 109 1 119
Binder 1 78 7 lbs. each 1 88 1 100
Gut 2 99 8 lbs. each 2 109 2 119
Gut 2 78 7 lbs. each 2 88 2 100
It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back
rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for
2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which
will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which
together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it
convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads
straight and confined to the limitations of space available.
[Illustration: Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth]
METHOD OF REEDING
The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each
dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a
26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next,
splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier,
and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by
the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching
process.
[Illustration: Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar]
The folding line between the neck band and the outer fold of the collar
is made by leaving out the binder and gut threads in four cords at the
desired point, only retaining the face and back threads. The position of
the folding line may be varied in each of the three standard widths to
meet the requirements of the manufacturer and according to the style of
the collar desired.
There are 104 picks per inch, counting at the folded line, as there are
more on the short side and less on the long side. High grade 60/2 C. P.
yarn is used throughout. The goods are woven in the gray and bleached
afterwards.
Knitted Narrow Fabrics
By WILLIAM DAVIS, M.A.
_Branch of the Knitting Industry That Presents Interesting Features—Yarn
Testing—Manufacture of Cleaners and Meat Bags, Coverings for Wires and
Cables, Fancy Stitch and Colored Effects for Trimmings—Use of Core Thread
to Give Strength_
Knitting machine builders are remarkable for the new inventions and
adaptations they are constantly bringing out on their machines. Several
important concerns in this line have recently been active in producing
types to deal with the large trade now being done in narrow fabrics for
various purposes.
The ordinary circular knitting machine of small diameter has long been
recognized as a suitable means of making trials of new yarns to judge
how closely they match the original sample, because in knitting there
is not the necessity of elaborate warp preparation and loom mounting.
The machine generally employed for this purpose is an ordinary type of
stocking knitter containing 96 or 112 needles. If the machine is only to
be employed as a sampling machine it is by no means necessary to have a
full stocking machine, because in this work it is never necessary to use
the ribber or dial which is always supplied.
The work of sampling to shade is done in most weaving or spinning
factories and a narrow width plain stitch knitting machine is
satisfactory for the purpose. It is usually quite suitable to work the
machine by hand, owing to the small lengths required and the frequent
changes necessary when testing different colors and qualities.
The latch needle machine is much better for this purpose than the bearded
needle frame owing to the simplicity of loop formation and also owing to
the facility with which small or thick yarns can be made to give good
work on the machine with suitable adjustment of the stitch tensions. It
is also used as a means of producing samples of color, as the various
colors can be introduced rapidly one after the other on this machine.
This type of frame with the needles stationary, and revolving cams and
thread guide has from the first been recognized as the best adapted for
knitting gas mantles from ramie. The yarn is working in long lengths on
a narrow width circular knitting machine using the latch needle and this
fabric is afterwards cut into lengths according to the mantles being
produced. Mantles of different sizes can be obtained by using different
diameters of machines as supplied by machine builders for this purpose.
In most hardware establishments and department stores one sees woven
metal material knitted into fabric on such machines, and intended to be
used for cleaning pots and pans in household work. The wire has a sharp
edge so as to grip the matter to be removed. Knitting the metal material
into looped form enables the product to do its work with the greatest
efficiency.
Another side line of the knitting industry is the production of what
are known as meat bags, with which the carcasses of frozen and ordinary
mutton and beef are covered prior to transport. These bags are usually
made on circular knitting machines of large diameter using the latch
needle, and as the size of the yarn is fine compared to the set of the
needles a gauze-like character is obtained which allows free circulation
of air as well as affording a clean method of handling the meat and
protecting it in the course of transport on ship, train and truck.
PLAIN KNITTED TUBE
Examples are given by the accompanying illustrations of a few products of
the narrow fabric branch of the trade. It will be evident at once what
an interesting field of application is afforded by this division of the
knitting industry. Fig. 1 shows a plain knitted fabric worked in circular
form on a knitting machine using the latch needle in which we have 40
needles in the circumference, so that in this tube, front and back, are
40 stitches shown here in flat form.
[Illustration: Fig. 1 Fig. 2]
[Illustration: Fig. 3 Fig. 4]
It is evident that this tubing can be used for the purpose of covering
wires and cables which slide inside the fabric. It has more elasticity
than woven fabric of similar form and is generally produced in a more
simple and direct manner. It should be pointed out, however, that this
fabric is susceptible to being torn and if it breaks at any point a
little further strain will cause it to unravel in a rapid manner. Thus
it is clear that it cannot be used by itself to any great extent in
cases where great strain or pull will be applied to it. Made in suitable
materials, there is nothing to hinder this tube from serving as lamp
wicks.
INTRODUCTION OF FANCY STITCH
Fig. 2 shows the same fabric with a fancy stitch introduced at one
needle on the cylinder of the knitting machine to produce what is known
as “tuck” work. In this work the needle in question is made to hold its
thread for one course without knocking over its loop, and takes a second
thread on the next course so that two threads are knocked over together,
giving rise to the effect shown in the middle of the illustration.
This effect is produced by inserting a needle at this point with a latch
which is longer than the other needle latches of the machine, with the
result that it does not knock over its stitches with the ordinary needles
unless it receives a specially deep draw down, which it gets every second
course. All the stitches made on this needle are double as compared with
the single stitches in the rest of the tube. In a machine with 20 needles
in the circumference, one needle would be inserted with this extra long
latch to give a tuck stitch right down the tube.
As regards the position of the fabric at which the tuck effect is made
to show, this is entirely a matter of arrangement in folding the tube.
According to the line of folding the tuck effect can be made to appear in
the middle or at the side.
Further examples of this style of narrow fabric are given in Figs. 3 and
4, made on the same diameter of machine. In Fig. 3 the tuck stitch is
made both front and back of the tape; that is, a long latch needle is
inserted in the cylinder every tenth needle so that there are two in the
circumference in place of the single line in Fig. 2. In Fig. 3 the second
vertical line of tucking stitches appears on the back of the fabric
directly under the line shown on the face, and this has the effect of
making the tuck stitch more pronounced.
[Illustration: Fig. 5 Fig. 6]
[Illustration: Fig. 7 Fig. 8]
In Fig. 4 it will be recognized that this idea is further developed by
having two vertical rows of tuck stitches showing on the face of the
tube, and these are supplemented by two others placed directly under them
on the other side of the fabric, thus giving a total of four long latch
needles in the circumference of the machine. To give the proper effect,
the tube as obtained from the machine has to be carefully pressed so as
to show the fancy effect at the correct place, for if the tube gets out
of alignment at any point, this will affect the form of the pattern.
USE FOR TRIMMINGS
In the knitting industry such pieces of tubing folded double are found
extremely useful in trimming garments, particularly in the circular or
cut trade, where so much depends on having articles tastefully ornamented
at a moderate cost. At present the manufacturer has often to buy these
touches of trimmings from the outside. The great advantage of doing the
work on his own premises and on his own machines is that he can install
such a machine at a very moderate cost and place among his ordinary
knitting machines at little or no extra cost for mechanics.
PATTERNS WITH COLORED YARNS
Several other examples are given herewith of the application of this
principle of the latch needle knitting machine for tubular fabrics
suitable for narrow tapes or ribbons. Fig. 5 illustrates a fabric
produced on a machine of still narrower dimensions, having only
12 needles in the circumference of the machine. In this case the
pattern effect is introduced by having several feeds of thread in the
circumference; three different colors are employed and introduced in the
order of one white, one black, and one tan all the way down the fabric,
thus giving rise to a style of pattern which is very suitable for many
purposes of the knitting manufacturer, particularly of outer garments.
There are three yarn feeds round the circumference of this machine and
every revolution of the machine creates three courses in the three colors
named.
It will be noted that this gives rise to a color effect showing at a
decided angle to the right, in place of being exactly horizontal, as
would be approximately the case in a machine of larger diameter. This is
one of the defects of all machines of this character where several feeds
are used. They create a decidedly spiral tendency and the color effects
appear at an angle. In many cases this is no disadvantage, but rather the
reverse, as it takes away the stiffness of the color scheme and produces
attractive effects in twill fashion similar to what can only be created
in woven goods by the aid of the corkscrew weave and an elaborate setting
of the cloth.
Fabrics of the character shown in Fig. 5 are very useful for edging parts
of knitting coats, jumpers or vestings, these edgings giving a suitable
finish for the edges of the garment. In addition to the color feature,
these bands are often made in a tight tension so as to give a rigid cloth
which will strengthen certain parts at which extra pull is applied,
enabling the garment to retain its shape.
KNITTED CORDS
Fig. 6 gives a view of a narrow fabric made on a circular latch needle
knitting machine with only six needles in the cylinder. There are two
feeds, one supplying blue yarn to the needles and the other supplying
green, the pattern being alternate courses of green and blue. The
material is artificial silk and the cord, for it is nothing more, is
employed for threading through certain garments which have a kind of open
trimming through the spaces of which this cord is passed to complete the
drawing together of the part. Very often these drawing together cords
are provided with tassels at their extreme ends to afford a further
ornamental feature.
Fig. 7 gives another variation of this pattern produced on the same
machine where the courses alternate with each other in red and green.
This sample shows the facility with which new color blends can be
produced to match any color of ground garment. One bobbin is simply
replaced with another on the machine, or both may be changed. In this
pattern again a decided tendency is shown for the effect to run in the
direction of the right owing to the tendency to a spiral effect.
USE OF CORE THREAD
In some cases the cord made of the knitted fabric itself is too elastic
and lacks the tensile strength required for certain purposes. In this
event it is an easy matter to arrange that a center core thread be run
into the machine as the fabric is being knitted. The core thread is made
of some strong, non-elastic material and is arranged on a bobbin above
the machine. That material is drawn off its bobbin and passes down the
center of the circle of needles so that it is completely covered by
the knitted fabric. Its use considerably strengthens the cord and makes
it suitable for certain purposes for which it otherwise would not be
satisfactory.
Fig. 8 shows a sample of an actual cord made on the same type of machine
where we have only four needles in the cylinder, these being worked with
two yarn feeds, one black and one white, giving a one and one black
and white effect in the cord. For this style it is necessary to have a
core thread of material which passes into the center of the tube as the
knitting proceeds. This makes the cord bulk larger and causes it to be
quite round in effect.
The smallest cord of this character is produced from one latch needle by
an arrangement such as is supplied with the Union Special sewing machine,
where the latch needle works by power, enters its loop and takes the new
thread, which it draws through the old one, thus making an endless chain
of loops in a very rapid manner. These strings are used as the ground
work of the ornamental edgings produced on this machine.
THE ABBOTT PRESS, NEW YORK