ATLIN LAKE AND THE GOLD FIELDS
There is nothing drearier than camping on the edge of civilization
like this, where one is surrounded by ill smells, invaded by streams
of foul dust, and deprived of wood and clear water. I was exceedingly
eager to get away, especially as the wind continued cold and very
searching. It was a long dull day of waiting.
At last the boat came in and we trooped aboard--a queer mixture of
men and bundles. The boat itself was a mere scow with an upright
engine in the centre and a stern-wheel tacked on the outside. There
were no staterooms, of course, and almost no bunks. The interior
resembled a lumberman's shanty.
We moved off towing a big scow laden with police supplies for Tagish
House. The wind was very high and pushed steadily behind, or we would
not have gone faster than a walk. We had some eight or ten
passengers, all bound for the new gold fields, and these together
with their baggage and tools filled the boat to the utmost corner.
The feeling of elation among these men reminded me of the great land
boom of Dakota in 1883, in which I took a part. There was something
fine and free and primitive in it all.
We cooked our supper on the boat's stove, furnishing our own food
from the supplies we were taking in with us. The ride promised to be
very fine. We made off down the narrow lake, which lies between two
walls of high bleak mountains, but far in the distance more alluring
ranges arose. There was no sign of mineral in the near-by peaks.
Late in the afternoon the wind became so high and the captain of our
boat so timid, we were forced to lay by for the night and so swung
around under a point, seeking shelter from the wind, which became
each moment more furious. I made my bed down on the roof of the boat
and went to sleep looking at the drifting clouds overhead. Once or
twice during the night when I awoke I heard the howling blast
sweeping by with increasing power.
All the next day we loitered on Bennett Lake--the wind roaring
without ceasing, and the white-caps running like hares. We drifted at
last into a cove and there lay in shelter till six o'clock at night.
The sky was clear and the few clouds were gloriously bright and cool
and fleecy.
We met several canoes of goldseekers on their return who shouted
doleful warnings at us and cursed the worthlessness of the district
to which we were bound. They all looked exceedingly dirty, ragged,
and sour of visage. At the same time, however, boat after boat went
sailing down past us on their way to Atlin and Dawson. They drove
straight before the wind, and for the most part experienced little
danger, all of which seemed to us to emphasize the unnecessary
timidity of our own captain.
There was a charm in this wild spot, but we were too impatient to
enjoy it. There were men on board who felt that they were being
cheated of a chance to get a gold mine, and when the wind began to
fall we fired up and started down the lake. As deep night came on I
made my bed on the roof again and went to sleep with the flying
sparks lining the sky overhead. I was in some danger of being set on
fire, but I preferred sleeping there to sleeping on the floor inside
the boat, where the reek of tobacco smoke was sickening.
When I awoke we were driving straight up Tagish Lake, a beautiful,
clear, green and blue spread of rippling water with lofty and boldly
outlined peaks on each side. The lake ran from southeast to northwest
and was much larger than any map shows. We drove steadily for ten
hours up this magnificent water with ever increasing splendor of
scenery, arriving about sunset at Taku City, which we found to be a
little group of tents at the head of Taku arm.
Innumerable boats of every design fringed the shore. Men were coming
and men were going, producing a bewildering clash of opinions with
respect to the value of the mines. A few of these to whom we spoke
said, "It's all a fake," and others were equally certain it was "All
right."
A short portage was necessary to reach Atlin Lake, and taking a part
of our baggage upon our shoulders we hired the remainder packed on
horses and within an hour were moving up the smooth path under the
small black pines, across the low ridge which separates the two
lakes. At the top of this ridge we were able to look out over the
magnificent spread of Atlin Lake, which was more beautiful in every
way than Tagish or Taku. It is, in fact, one of the most beautiful
lakes I have ever seen.
Far to the southeast it spread until it was lost to view among the
bases of the gigantic glacier-laden mountains of the coast range. To
the left--that is to the north--it seemed to divide, enclosing a
splendid dome-shaped solitary mountain, one fork moving to the east,
the other to the west. Its end could not be determined by the eye in
either direction. Its width was approximately about ten miles.
At the end of the trail we found an enterprising Canadian with a
naphtha launch ready to ferry us across to Atlin City, but were
forced to wait for some one who had gone back to Taku for a second
load.
While we were waiting, the engineer, who was a round-faced and rather
green boy, fell under the influences of a large, plump, and very
talkative lady who made the portage just behind us. She so absorbed
and fascinated the lad that he let the engine run itself into some
cramp of piston or wheel. There was a sudden crunching sound and the
propeller stopped. The boy minimized the accident, but the captain
upon arrival told us it would be necessary to unload from the boat
while the engine was being repaired.
It was now getting dark, and as it was pretty evident that the
repairs on the boat would take a large part of the night, we camped
where we were. The talkative lady, whom the irreverent called "the
glass front," occupied a tent which belonged to the captain of the
launch and the rest of us made our beds down under the big trees.
A big fire was built and around this we sat, doing more or less
talking. There was an old Tennesseean in the party from Dawson, who
talked interminably. He told us of his troubles, trials, and
victories in Dawson: how he had been successful, how he had fallen
ill, and how his life had been saved by a good old miner who gave him
an opportunity to work over his dump. Sick as he was he was able in a
few days to find gold enough to take him out of the country to a
doctor. He was now on his way back to his claim and professed to be
very sceptical of Atlin and every other country except Dawson.
The plump lady developed exceedingly kittenish manners late in the
evening, and invited the whole company to share her tent. A singular
type of woman, capable of most ladylike manners and having
astonishingly sensible moments, but inexpressibly silly most of the
time. She was really a powerful, self-confident, and shrewd woman,
but preferred to seem young and helpless. Altogether the company was
sufficiently curious. There was a young civil engineer from New York
City, a land boomer from Skagway, an Irishman from Juneau, a
representative of a New York paper, one or two nondescripts from the
States, and one or two prospectors from Quebec. The night was cold
and beautiful and my partner and I, by going sufficiently far away
from the old Tennesseean and the plump lady, were able to sleep
soundly until sunrise.
The next morning we hired a large unpainted skiff and by working very
hard ourselves in addition to paying full fare we reached camp at
about ten o'clock in the morning. Atlin City was also a clump of
tents half hidden in the trees on the beach of the lake near the
mouth of Pine Creek. The lake was surpassingly beautiful under the
morning sun.
A crowd of sullen, profane, and grimy men were lounging around,
cursing the commissioners and the police. The beach was fringed with
rowboats and canoes, like a New England fishing village, and all day
long men were loading themselves into these boats, hungry, tired, and
weary, hastening back to Skagway or the coast; while others, fresh,
buoyant, and hopeful, came gliding in.
To those who came, the sullen and disappointed ones who were about to
go uttered approbrious cries: "See the damn fools come! What d'you
think you're doin'? On a fishin' excursion?"
We went into camp on the water front, and hour after hour men laden
with packs tramped ceaselessly to and fro along the pathway just
below our door. I was now chief cook and bottle washer, my partner,
who was entirely unaccustomed to work of this kind, having the status
of a boarder.
The lake was a constant joy to us. As the sun sank the glacial
mountains to the southwest became most royal in their robes of purple
and silver. The sky filled with crimson and saffron clouds which the
lake reflected like a mirror. The little rocky islands drowsed in the
mist like some strange monsters sleeping on the bosom of the water.
The men were filthy and profane for the most part, and made enjoyment
of nature almost impossible. Many of them were of the rudest and most
uninteresting types, nomads--almost tramps. They had nothing of the
epic qualities which belong to the mountaineers and natural miners of
the Rocky Mountains. Many of them were loafers and ne'er-do-wells
from Skagway and other towns of the coast.
We had a gold pan, a spade, and a pick. Therefore early the next
morning we flung a little pack of grub over our shoulders and set
forth to test the claims which were situated upon Pine Creek, a
stream which entered Lake Atlin near the camp. It was said to be
eighteen miles long and Discovery claim was some eight miles up.
We traced our way up the creek as far as Discovery and back, panning
dirt at various places with resulting colors in some cases. The trail
was full of men racking to and fro with heavy loads on their backs.
They moved in little trains of four or five or six men, some going
out of the country, others coming in--about an equal number each way.
Everything along the creek was staked, and our test work resulted in
nothing more than gaining information with regard to what was going
on.
The camps on the hills at night swarmed with men in hot debate. The
majority believed the camps to be a failure, and loud discussions
resounded from the trees as partner and I sat at supper. The
town-site men were very nervous. The camps were decreasing in
population, and the tone was one of general foreboding.
The campfires flamed all along the lake walk, and the talk of each
group could be overheard by any one who listened. Altercations went
on with clangorous fury. Almost every party was in division. Some
enthusiastic individual had made a find, or had seen some one else
who had. His cackle reached other groups, and out of the dark hulking
figures loomed to listen or to throw in hot missiles of profanity.
Phrases multiplied, mingling inextricably.
"Morgan claims thirty cents to the pan ... good creek claim ... his
sluice is about ready ... a clean-up last night ... I don't believe
it.... No, Sir, I wouldn't give a hundred dollars for the whole damn
moose pasture.... Well, it's good enough for me.... I tell you it's
rotten, the whole damn cheese.... You've got to stand in with the
police or you can't get...." and so on and on unendingly, without
coherence. I went to sleep only when the sound of the wordy warfare
died away.
I permitted myself a day of rest. Borrowing a boat next day, we went
out upon the water and up to the mouth of Pine Creek, where we panned
some dirt to amuse ourselves. The lake was like liquid glass, the
bottom visible at an enormous depth. It made me think of the
marvellous water of McDonald Lake in the Kalispels. I steered the
boat (with a long-handled spade) and so was able to look about me and
absorb at ease the wonderful beauty of this unbroken and unhewn
wilderness. The clouds were resplendent, and in every direction the
lake vistas were ideally beautiful and constantly changing.
Toward night the sky grew thick and heavy with clouds. The water of
the lake was like molten jewels, ruby and amethyst. The boat seemed
floating in some strange, ethereal substance hitherto unknown to
man--translucent and iridescent. The mountains loomed like dim purple
pillars at the western gate of the world, and the rays of the
half-hidden sun plunging athwart these sentinels sank deep into the
shining flood. Later the sky cleared, and the inverted mountains in
the lake were scarcely less vivid than those which rose into the sky.
The next day I spent with gold pan and camera, working my way up
Spruce Creek, a branch of Pine. I found men cheerily at work getting
out sluice boxes and digging ditches. I panned everywhere, but did
not get much in the way of colors, but the creek seemed to grow
better as I went up, and promised very rich returns. I came back
rushing, making five miles just inside an hour, hungry and tired.
The crowded camp thinned out. The faint-hearted ones who had no
courage to sweat for gold sailed away. Others went out upon their
claims to build cabins and lay sluices. I found them whip-sawing
lumber, building cabins, and digging ditches. Each day the news grew
more encouraging, each day brought the discovery of a new creek or a
lake. Men came back in swarms and reporting finds on "Lake Surprise,"
a newly discovered big body of water, and at last came the report of
surprising discoveries in the benches high above the creek.
In the camp one night I heard a couple of men talking around a
campfire near me. One of them said: "Why, you know old Sperry was
digging on the ridge just above Discovery and I came along and see
him up there. And I said, 'Hullo, uncle, what you doin', diggin' your
grave?' And the old feller said, 'You just wait a few minutes and
I'll show ye.' Well, sir, he filled up a sack o' dirt and toted it
down to the creek, and I went along with him to see him wash it out,
and say, he took $3.25 out of one pan of that dirt, and $1.85 out of
the other pan. Well, that knocked me. I says, 'Uncle, you're all
right.' And then I made tracks for a bench claim next him. Well,
about that time everybody began to hustle for bench claims, and now
you can't get one anywhere near him."
At another camp, a packer was telling of an immense nugget that had
been discovered somewhere on the upper waters of Birch Creek. "And
say, fellers, you know there is another lake up there pretty near as
big as Atlin. They are calling it Lake Surprise. I heard a feller say
a few days ago there was a big lake up there and I thought he meant a
lake six or eight miles long. On the very high ground next to Birch,
you can look down over that lake and I bet it's sixty miles long. It
must reach nearly to Teslin Lake." There was something pretty fine in
the thought of being in a country where lakes sixty miles long were
being discovered and set forth on the maps of the world. Up to this
time Atlin Lake itself was unmapped. To an unpractical man like
myself it was reward enough to feel the thrill of excitement which
comes with such discoveries.
However, I was not a goldseeker, and when I determined to give up any
further pursuit of mining and to delegate it entirely to my partner,
I experienced a feeling of relief. I determined to "stick to my
last," notwithstanding the fascination which I felt in the sight of
placer gold. Quartz mining has never had the slightest attraction for
me, but to see the gold washed out of the sand, to see it appear
bright and shining in the black sand in the bottom of the pan, is
really worth while. It is first-hand contact with Nature's stores of
wealth.
I went up to Discovery for the last time with my camera slung over my
shoulder, and my note-book in hand to take a final survey of the
miners and to hear for the last time their exultant talk. I found
them exceedingly cheerful, even buoyant.
The men who had gone in with ten days' provisions, the tenderfoot
miners, the men "with a cigarette and a sandwich," had gone out.
Those who remained were men who knew their business and were resolute
and self-sustaining.
There was a crowd of such men around the land-office tents and many
filings were made. Nearly every man had his little phial of gold to
show. No one was loud, but every one seemed to be quietly confident
and replied to my questions in a low voice, "Well, you can safely say
the country is all right."
The day was fine like September in Wisconsin. The lake as I walked
back to it was very alluring. My mind returned again and again to
the things I had left behind for so long. My correspondence, my
books, my friends, all the literary interests of my life, began to
reassert their dominion over me. For some time I had realized that
this was almost an ideal spot for camping or mining. Just over in the
wild country toward Teslin Lake, herds of caribou were grazing. Moose
and bear were being killed daily, rich and unknown streams were
waiting for the gold pan, the pick and the shovel, but--it was not
for me! I was ready to return--eager to return.
THE FREEMAN OF THE HILLS
I have no master but the wind,
My only liege the sun;
All bonds and ties I leave behind,
Free as the wolf I run.
My master wind is passionless,
He neither chides nor charms;
He fans me or he freezes me,
And helps are quick as harms.
He never turns to injure me,
And when his voice is high
I crouch behind a rock and see
His storm of snows go by.
He too is subject of the sun,
As all things earthly are,
Where'er he flies, where'er I run,
We know our kingly star.
THE VOICE OF THE MAPLE TREE
I am worn with the dull-green spires of fir,
I am tired of endless talk of gold,
I long for the cricket's cheery whirr,
And the song that the maples sang of old.
O the beauty and learning and light
That lie in the leaves of the level lands!
They shake my heart in the deep of the night,
They call me and bless me with calm, cool hands.
_Sing, O leaves of the maple tree,_
_I hear your voice by the savage sea,_
_Hear and hasten to home and thee!_