AT LAST THE STIKEEN
About the middle of the afternoon of the fifty-eighth day we topped a
low divide, and came in sight of the Stikeen River. Our hearts
thrilled with pleasure as we looked far over the deep blue and
purple-green spread of valley, dim with mist, in which a little
silver ribbon of water could be seen.
After weeks of rain, as if to make amend for useless severity, the
sun came out, a fresh westerly breeze sprang up, and the sky filled
with glowing clouds flooded with tender light. The bloom of fireweed
almost concealed the devastation of flame in the fallen firs, and the
grim forest seemed a royal road over which we could pass as over a
carpet--winter seemed far away.
But all this was delusion. Beneath us lay a thousand quagmires. The
forest was filled with impenetrable jungles and hidden streams,
ridges sullen and silent were to be crossed, and the snow was close
at hand. Across this valley an eagle might sweep with joy, but the
pack trains must crawl in mud and mire through long hours of torture.
We spent but a moment here, and then with grim resolution called out,
"Line up, boys, line up!" and struck down upon the last two days of
our long journey.
On the following noon we topped another rise, and came unmistakably
in sight of the Stikeen River lying deep in its rocky canyon. We had
ridden all the morning in a pelting rain, slashed by wet trees,
plunging through bogs and sliding down ravines, and when we saw the
valley just before us we raised a cheer. It seemed we could hear the
hotel bells ringing far below.
But when we had tumbled down into the big canyon near the water's
edge, we found ourselves in scarcely better condition than before. We
were trapped with no feed for our horses, and no way to cross the
river, which was roaring mad by reason of the heavy rains, a swift
and terrible flood, impossible to swim. Men were camped all along the
bank, out of food like ourselves, and ragged and worn and weary. They
had formed a little street of camps. Borland, the leader of the big
mule train, was there, calm and efficient as ever. "The Wilson
Outfit," "The Man from Chihuahua," "Throw-me-feet," and the
Manchester boys were also included in the group. "The Dutchman" came
sliding down just behind us.
After a scanty dinner of bacon grease and bread we turned our horses
out on the flat by the river, and joined the little village. Borland
said: "We've been here for a day and a half, tryin' to induce that
damn ferryman to come over, and now we're waitin' for reenforcements.
Let's try it again, numbers will bring 'em."
Thereupon we marched out solemnly upon the bank (some ten or fifteen
of us) and howled like a pack of wolves.
For two hours we clamored, alternating the Ute war-whoop with the
Swiss yodel. It was truly cacophonous, but it produced results.
Minute figures came to the brow of the hill opposite, and looked at
us like cautious cockroaches and then went away. At last two shadowy
beetles crawled down the zigzag trail to the ferry-boat, and began
bailing her out. Ultimately three men, sweating, scared, and
tremulous, swung a clumsy scow upon the sand at our feet. It was no
child's play to cross that stream. Together with one of "The Little
Dutchmen," and a representation from "The Mule Outfit," I stepped
into the boat and it was swung off into the savage swirl of gray
water. We failed of landing the first time. I did not wonder at the
ferryman's nervousness, as I felt the heave and rush of the whirling
savage flood.
At the "ratty" little town of Telegraph Creek we purchased beans at
fifteen cents a pound, bacon at thirty-five cents, and flour at ten
cents, and laden with these necessaries hurried back to the hungry
hordes on the opposite side of the river. That night "The Little
Dutchman" did nothing but cook and eat to make up for lost time.
Every face wore a smile.
The next morning Burton and one or two other men from the outfits
took the horses back up the trail to find feed, while the rest of us
remained in camp to be ready for the boats. Late in the afternoon we
heard far down the river a steamer whistling for Telegraph Creek,
and everybody began packing truck down to the river where the boat
was expected to land. Word was sent back over the trail to the boys
herding the horses, and every man was in a tremor of apprehension
lest the herders should not hear the boat and bring the horses down
in time to get off on it.
It was punishing work packing our stuff down the sloppy path to the
river bank, but we buckled to it hard, and in the course of a couple
of hours had all snug and ready for embarkation.
There was great excitement among the outfits, and every man was
hurrying and worrying to get away. It was known that charges would be
high, and each of us felt in his pocket to see how many dollars he
had left. The steamboat company had us between fire and water and
could charge whatever it pleased. Some of the poor prospectors gave
up their last dollar to cross this river toward which they had
journeyed so long.
The boys came sliding down the trail wildly excited, driving the
horses before them, and by 5.30 we were all packed on the boat, one
hundred and twenty horses and some two dozen men. We were a seedy and
careworn lot, in vivid contrast with the smartly uniformed purser of
the boat. The rates were exorbitant, but there was nothing to do but
to pay them. However, Borland and I, acting as committee, brought
such pressure to bear upon the purser that he "threw in" a dinner,
and there was a joyous rush for the table when this good news was
announced. For the first time in nearly three months we were able to
sit down to a fairly good meal with clean nice tableware, with pie
and pudding to end the meal. It seemed as though we had reached
civilization. The boat was handsomely built, and quite new and
capacious, too, for it held our horses without serious crowding. I
was especially anxious about Ladrone, but was able to get him into a
very nice place away from the engines and in no danger of being
kicked by a vicious mule.
We drifted down the river past Telegraph Creek without stopping, and
late at night laid by at Glenora and unloaded in the crisp, cool
dusk. As we came off the boat with our horses we were met by a crowd
of cynical loafers who called to us out of the dark, "What in hell
you fellows think you're doing?" We were regarded as wildly insane
for having come over so long and tedious a route.
We erected our tents, and went into camp beside our horses on the
bank near the dock. It was too late to move farther that night. We
fed our beasts upon hay at five cents a pound,--poor hay at
that,--and they were forced to stand exposed to the searching river
wind.
As for ourselves, we were filled with dismay by the hopeless dulness
of the town. Instead of being the hustling, rushing gold camp we had
expected to find, it came to light as a little town of tents and
shanties, filled with men who had practically given up the Teslin
Lake Route as a bad job. The government trail was incomplete, the
wagon road only built halfway, and the railroad--of which we had
heard so much talk--had been abandoned altogether.
As I slipped the saddle and bridle from Ladrone next day and turned
him out upon the river bottom for a two weeks' rest, my heart was
very light. The long trail was over. No more mud, rocks, stumps, and
roots for Ladrone. Away the other poor animals streamed down the
trail, many of them lame, all of them poor and weak, and some of them
still crazed by the poisonous plants of the cold green mountains
through which they had passed.
This ended the worst of the toil, the torment of the trail. It had no
dangers, but it abounded in worriments and disappointments. As I look
back upon it now I suffer, because I see my horses standing
ankle-deep in water on barren marshes or crowding round the fire
chilled and weak, in endless rain. If our faces looked haggard and
worn, it was because of the never ending anxiety concerning the
faithful animals who trusted in us to find them food and shelter.
Otherwise we suffered little, slept perfectly dry and warm every
night, and ate three meals each day: true, the meals grew scanty and
monotonous, but we did not go hungry.
The trail was a disappointment to me, not because it was long and
crossed mountains, but because it ran through a barren, monotonous,
silent, gloomy, and rainy country. It ceased to interest me. It had
almost no wild animal life, which I love to hear and see. Its lakes
and rivers were for the most part cold and sullen, and its forests
sombre and depressing. The only pleasant places after leaving
Hazleton were the high valleys above timber line. They were
magnificent, although wet and marshy to traverse.
As a route to reach the gold fields of Teslin Lake and the Yukon it
is absurd and foolish. It will never be used again for that purpose.
Should mines develop on the high divides between the Skeena, Iskoot,
and Stikeen, it may possibly be used again from Hazleton; otherwise
it will be given back to the Indians and their dogs.
THE FOOTSTEP IN THE DESERT
A man put love forth from his heart,
And rode across the desert far away.
"Woman shall have no place nor part
In my lone life," men heard him say.
He rode right on. The level rim
Of the barren plain grew low and wide;
It seemed to taunt and beckon him,
To ride right on and fiercely ride.
One day he rode a well-worn path,
And lo! even in that far land
He saw (and cursed in gusty wrath)
A woman's footprint in the sand.
Sharply he drew the swinging rein,
And hanging from his saddle bow
Gazed long and silently--cursed again,
Then turned as if to go.
"For love will seize you at the end,
Fear loneliness--fear sickness, too,
For they will teach you wisdom, friend."
Yet he rode on as madmen do.
He built a cabin by a sounding stream,
He digged in canyons dark and deep,
And ever the waters caused a dream
And the face of woman broke his sleep.
It was a slender little mark,
And the man had lived alone so long
Within the canyon's noise and dark,
The footprint moved him like a song.
It spoke to him of women in the East,
Of girls in silken robes, with shining hair,
And talked of those who sat at feast,
While sweet-eyed laughter filled the air.
And more. A hundred visions rose,
He saw his mother's knotted hands
Ply round thick-knitted homely hose,
Her thoughts with him in desert lands.
A smiling wife, in bib and cap,
Moved busily from chair to chair,
Or sat with apples in her lap,
Content with sweet domestic care.
_All these his curse had put away,_
_All these were his no more to hold;_
_He had his canyon cold and gray,_
_He had his little heaps of gold._