CHAPTER IV

IN CAMP AT QUESNELLE

We came into Quesnelle about three o'clock of the eleventh day out.

From a high point which overlooked the two rivers, we could see great

ridges rolling in waves of deep blue against the sky to the

northwest. Over these our slender little trail ran. The wind was in

the south, roaring up the river, and green grass was springing on the

slopes.

Quesnelle we found to be a little town on a high, smooth slope above

the Fraser. We overtook many prospectors like ourselves camped on the

river bank waiting to cross.

Here also telegraph bulletins concerning the Spanish war, dated

London, Hong Kong, and Madrid, hung on the walls of the post-office.

They were very brief and left plenty of room for imagination and

discussion.

Here I took a pony and a dog-cart and jogged away toward the

long-famous Caribou Mining district next day, for the purpose of

inspecting a mine belonging to some friends of mine. The ride was

very desolate and lonely, a steady climb all the way, through

fire-devastated forests, toward the great peaks. Snow lay in the

roadside ditches. Butterflies were fluttering about, and in the high

hills I saw many toads crawling over the snowbanks, a singular sight

to me. They were silent, perhaps from cold.

Strange to say, this ride called up in my mind visions of the hot

sands, and the sun-lit buttes and valleys of Arizona and Montana, and

I wrote several verses as I jogged along in the pony-cart.

When I returned to camp two days later, I found Burton ready and

eager to move. The town swarmed with goldseekers pausing here to rest

and fill their parfleches. On the opposite side of the river others

could be seen in camp, or already moving out over the trail, which

left the river and climbed at once into the high ridges dark with

pines in the west.

As I sat with my partner at night talking of the start the next day,

I began to feel not a fear but a certain respect for that narrow

little path which was not an arm's span in width, but which was

nearly eight hundred miles in length. "From this point, Burton, it is

business. Our practice march is finished."

The stories of flies and mosquitoes gave me more trouble than

anything else, but a surveyor who had had much experience in this

Northwestern country recommended the use of oil of pennyroyal, mixed

with lard or vaseline. "It will keep the mosquitoes and most of the

flies away," he said. "I know, for I have tried it. You can't wear a

net, at least I never could. It is too warm, and then it is always in

your way. You are in no danger from beasts, but you will curse the

day you set out on this trail on account of the insects. It is the

worst mosquito country in the world."

THE GIFT OF WATER

"Is water nigh?"

The plainsmen cry,

As they meet and pass in the desert grass.

With finger tip

Across the lip

I ask the sombre Navajo.

The brown man smiles and answers "Sho!"[1]

With fingers high, he signs the miles

To the desert spring,

And so we pass in the dry dead grass,

Brothers in bond of the water's ring.

[Footnote 1: Listen. Your attention.]

MOUNTING

I mount and mount toward the sky,

The eagle's heart is mine,

I ride to put the clouds a-by

Where silver lakelets shine.

The roaring streams wax white with snow,

The eagle's nest draws near,

The blue sky widens, hid peaks glow,

The air is frosty clear.

_And so from cliff to cliff I rise,_

_The eagle's heart is mine;_

_Above me ever broadning skies,_

_Below the rivers shine._

THE EAGLE TRAIL

From rock-built nest,

The mother eagle, with a threatning tongue,

Utters a warning scream. Her shrill voice rings

Wild as the snow-topped crags she sits among;

While hovering with her quivering wings

Her hungry brood, with eyes ablaze

She watches every shadow. The water calls

Far, far below. The sun's red rays

Ascend the icy, iron walls,

And leap beyond the mountains in the west,

And over the trail and the eagle's nest

The clear night falls.

The Trail of the Goldseekers: A Record of Travel in Prose and Verse · 第 4 / 26 章