_Royat Improved._--I have said Royat ought to be rebuilt. The Grand
Hotel is of a sort of Doll's House order of architecture, splendid
front, no depth to speak of, and built on so steep an ascent that it is
hoisted up at the back like a lady's skirt by a dress-improver. _Beau
site_ all the same, and magnificent view.
* * * * *
Last year the Hotel Continental formed part of a group of hotels--which
seemed to have been the result of some violent volcanic eruption, when
the mountain threw up several hotels, and left them there anyhow--is at
present separated from the Splendide and its other former companions by
an impromptu wall, and from all its front windows it commands varied,
beautiful, and, on the Clermont-Ferrand side, extensive views. It has a
pleasant garden, a most enjoyable terrace, and it only wants to be in
the hands of a firmly fixed and intelligent management to make it quite
the best hotel in Royat. "Personally recommended," that is, as managed
under the direction of M. HALL this year.
The service at the _Etablissement de Bains_ is about as good as it can
be. There are, however, no _bains de luxe_. A few of these would attract
those "whom" as the appeals to the charitable used to have it,
"Providence has blessed with affluence."
"La Compagnie Brocard," which manages Royat's bathing arrangements and
undertakes a portion of the mild yet (to my mind as a serious bather)
sufficient amusements, is not, unfortunately for the public, in accord
with M. SAMIE, the spirited Proprietor of an opposition Casino, where
there is a small theatre, in its way a perfect gem. Here all the "Stars"
of any magnitude make their appearance on visiting Royat. As a "Baigneur
de Royat" puts it, in a local journal, the Compagnie Brocard cannot
consider their stuffy little room ("_le petit étouffoir_") where
theatrical performances are given as a real theatre. It is a pity that
M. SAMIE and La Compagnie Brocard cannot, like the "birds in their
little nests," agree. But as to Theatres and spectacles, my rule at
Royat, or at any other Water-cure place, would be this:--
"_Any baigneur found out of his hotel or lodgings after 10.15, p.m.,
shall be arrested, conducted back to his hotel, his number taken, and
for the second offence he shall be fined. The fine to go to such objects
as the Direction shall determine._"
In short there should be introduced here the English University system
of Proctors and bull-dogs.
* * * * *
_Another Rule._--No theatrical entertainment should last more than two
hours with _entr'actes_ of seven minutes each. The ventilation of the
_salle de spectacle_ should be assured.
* * * * *
If a company wanted to play a piece in four Acts, they must stop here
two days; and, if they couldn't do that, then they must begin their
performance in the afternoon, have one _entr'acte_ of an hour and a half
to allow for dinner, and recommence at eight o'clock. I would discourage
all evening indoor entertainments. Music, coffee, _petits chevaux_, M.
GUIGNOL'S show, _ombres chinoises_, everything in fact that can be done
_al fresco_--(and why not good plays _al fresco_? After the Laboucherian
_Midsummer Night's Dream_, at Twickenham, which I am told was
perfection)--_cafés chantants_, and so forth, including the
"_consommation_ devoutly to be wished," and all the lights out by 9.30.
Lights in bedrooms to be extinguished same hour. This rule would mean,
Early to bed, and early to rise, and the "_baigneurs_" would receive
double the benefit they derive from these places, as now constituted.
Life in the open air should be the rule; plenty of exercise, riding and
walking, and regular hours for everything for three weeks. The
_baigneurs_ to choose their own hours, and be kept to them strictly.
* * * * *
But I have personally no sympathy with the _baigneurs_ who find such a
water-cure place as Royat dull. What do they want? If they cannot get on
without a sort of continuation of the London Season, let them stay away
altogether. Don't let them come and make night hideous with balls,
suppers, dances, and won't-go-home-till-morning parties.
* * * * *
The above are my suggestions for the improvement of Royat; and now I go
on to La Bourboule, and Mont Dore. By the way, the waters at these
places are all supplied, as I am credibly informed, from the same
source; but the waters flowing towards La Bourboule and Mont Dore
traverse certain _couches_ on their way, and come out arsenical. It is
strong drinking at La Bourboule and Mont Dore.
* * * * *
One Joanne Guide introduces you to another Joanne Guide, or a history,
you can't help yourself. The Joanne Guides are so united a family, that
as soon as any member of it establishes itself on a friendly footing
with you, your hand is always in your pocket while you are travelling on
that _Guide Joanne's_ account. An insidious tribe: and they make
themselves absolutely essential to the traveller's existence and
comfort.
* * * * *
Each _Guide Joanne_ tells you about his own country all that is
requisite for you to know, and just so much more as inspires you with a
thirst for further information. Say for example you see an old Château.
Let us say _Le Château de Jean_. You want to know everything about it.
Good. You inquire of the Guide Joanne which professes to show you all
over France, and which does it, mind you, in what would be an exhaustive
style if it was not written with such an evident eye to the bookselling
business. For example suppose you are looking for information about the
well-known ancient Château de Jean, here is a specimen of what Joanne
would say on the subject:--
"_Sur la rive g. (V. ci-dessous B.) restes d'un château, style ogival,
(mon. hist.,) bâti par le célèbre Jean Bienconnu-aux-enfants (V. mon.
hist, xe et xiie s.), beau portail, jolis détails d'architecture (mon.
hist.) et en particulier l'appartement dit de la Donzelle toute
désespéré (pour le visiter, s'addresser au gardien, pourboire), qui a
conservé une grande partie de sa décoration originale et de sa peinture
(mon. hist. xie). Le donjon renfermait une oubliette profonde nommée DU
RAT DÉVORANT, qui autrefois servait de grenier au malt (V. mon. hist.).
Ascension des Obélisques sur la terrasse (splendide panorama) et belles
promenades autour de la petite chapelle dite DU PRÊTRE CHAUVE. (V. vi.
L'ITINÉRAIRE DU PAYS-DE-BONNES, GUIDE DIAMANT.)_"
* * * * *