RISKY TRAVELLING.--AT BRUSSELS.--FRENCH AMBULANCE BREAKS DOWN
COMPLETELY.--WE START AGAIN FOR PARIS.
Dr. Pratt was of opinion that, if the Germans did not require our
services, they might perhaps allow us to get into Paris, where, as it
was rumoured, medical men were scarce. With this object in view, we had
determined to go round by Belgium, and now made for Bouillon, the
nearest frontier town. It was a lovely evening when we arrived. As we
came near the custom-house--"_la Douane_," the meaning of which I now
understood--we were in a state of trepidation lest, on the waggons being
overhauled, our trophies of Sedan should be discovered and taken from
us. For my part, I had hidden my chassepot, pistol, sword, and lance-top
from the Plain of Floing, securely beneath some sacks of corn. But the
officers allowed us to pass with only a formal scrutiny. As it was late,
we stayed that night in Bouillon at the hotel. All our baggage, waggons,
horses, and infirmarians were quartered in the old Castle yard; and,
having given my horse to the groom to be picketed (for I had turned my
grey Arab loose again on the plains of Sedan), I joined Hayden, and went
down into the town to look for quarters. When we had secured them, we
dined very comfortably at our hotel with the rest of the staff. This was
the first meal we had enjoyed for many weeks in a neighbourhood free
from war's alarms, and we found it pleasant.
After a sound night's rest we arose at three, and had our horses and men
together at the appointed time, which was an hour later. But more time
elapsed before all was ready, and it was quite five when marching orders
were given. We reached Libramont after a pleasant five hours' journey
through a pretty and very interesting country. Here all our staff, with
the exception of Hayden and myself, took the fast train to Brussels.
We two had been told off to stay in charge of the _infirmiers_, waggons,
horses, and stores, which we were to take on to Brussels in the evening,
by luggage-train. This was a heavy task, and occupied nearly all the
afternoon. Moreover, we had to get our ten horses fed, watered, cleaned,
and boxed, which was far from easy, considering that few of the
_infirmiers_ knew anything about the management of horses, while their
boxing and conveyance by train were quite beyond them. Here my
experience of boxing horses for the world-renowned Fair of Cahirmee,
near Buttevant, stood me in very good stead. Three of our waggons were
heavily laden with stores and corn, and required a truck each for
themselves. The fourth was a light covered fourgon which contained our
personal luggage, and in this we resolved to travel up to Brussels.
Having dined on mutton and fruit in a clean little inn near the station,
at 7·30 P.M. we started, comfortably stretched out at the bottom of our
fourgon, and covered up in rugs and coats. The night wore on, and we
were suddenly aroused from our slumbers by feeling the movement of our
waggon upon the truck, which latter was only a sand train. As we went
along, the line became more and more uneven; our van rolled several
times backwards and forwards, and was kind enough also to sway from side
to side in a most uncomfortable manner. I crept out and found its
moorings loose. The night was dark and misty, and we had no light, nor
the means of getting one; and, as the wheels of the fourgon were high,
and the edges of the truck low, while the motion of the train was very
rough, we thought it would be dangerous to try our hand at putting the
concern straight. We discussed our chances of being pitched overboard;
but concluded that the risk was small, although the jolting and swaying
from time to time vexed us not a little. However, at one in the morning,
we found ourselves at Namur, and were told we should have to stay there
four hours.
Accordingly, leaving men, horses, and waggons at the station, my friend
and I strolled into the town. It was a beautiful moonlight night. After
some wandering we saw a gleam in one of the restaurants, and roused up
the landlady, who kindly gave us some hot coffee and braised mutton.
Thus fortified we settled down in a couple of arm-chairs, and slept for
some hours. At half-past four we took our places again in the waggon;
but not until we had seen it firmly secured.
We arrived in Brussels at 10 A.M., having been _en route_ more than
fourteen hours. When we alighted we were in a sad plight,--sleepy,
hungry, and disreputable-looking, bearing upon us all the marks of the
hardships which we had gone through since entering on the campaign. Not
many minutes after our arrival, Dr. Pratt came up, and expressed his
satisfaction that orders had been carried out punctually. There was a
conveyance waiting, he said, to take us to the Hôtel de France; and
there we should find breakfast and comfortable quarters ready.
After the wear and tear of the last couple of months, one may fancy our
joy at this sudden return to the comforts, and even the luxuries, of
civilised life. No longer the din of armed men on the march, or going to
their exercises; no longer sentries at every step; no longer the
streets thronged with military! Yet, the sight of an occasional French
officer limping about on crutches, or with his arm in a sling, reminded
us that the seat of war was not far distant. When breakfast was over, we
turned in and slept until evening. Then, with some others of the staff,
and certain friends of Dr. May's who had fled from Paris, we took a box
at the Circus, and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.
Next day it was our business to report to Captain Brackenbury. After
filling up forms, answering questions, and submitting to a deal of red
tape, we were handed our pay up to date and a month in advance.
Here we learned that the French Society, under whose patronage we had
started from Paris, was now disorganised, and had stopped supplies. Not
only were its funds exhausted, but its Ambulances had failed to render
efficient service on the field of battle. Although we had now joined the
English Society, and, in consequence, were associated also with the
Prussians, it was a graceful act on the part of the Vice-President of
the French Association to make his acknowledgments, as he did, for the
assistance which we had given to his countrymen in our Hospitals around
Sedan.
At noon on the 8th of October, we received orders to hold ourselves in
readiness; and great excitement arose when it was noised abroad that the
Prussians had cut the line between Lille and Brussels. Thus, we might
have to go round by London, in order to reach Paris. We ascertained,
however, that the line had not yet been injured, although the enemy had
come into its immediate neighbourhood near the town of Lille.
In the evening, therefore, we quitted Brussels by train, taking with us
stores, waggons, and horses. The journey to Lille was a short one, and
from thence we travelled by Douai and Arras to Amiens, where we halted
for a few hours to eat and sleep until the next train set out for Rouen.
At daybreak we resumed our expedition, and as we entered Normandy the
whole aspect of the country, which had been hitherto flat and
monotonous, changed for the better. The red-brick houses, some tiled,
some thatched, reminded me a little of villages I had remarked in my
journey from London to Holyhead; but here most of the houses had timber
built into them, which made them more quaint and picturesque.