Anselm, the Archbishop of Canterbury, who had been a monk of Bec,

in Normandy, and who had signalized himself at Rouen by his fierce

opposition to long hair, was still anxious to work a reformation in this

matter. But his pertinacity was far from pleasing to the King, who had

finally made up his mind to wear ringlets. There were other disputes, of

a more serious nature, between them; so that when the Archbishop died,

the King was so glad to be rid of him, that he allowed the see to remain

vacant for five years. Still the cause had other advocates, and every

pulpit in the land resounded with anathemas against that disobedient and

long-haired generation. But all was of no avail. Stowe, in writing of

this period, asserts, on the authority of some more ancient chronicler,

"that men, forgetting their birth, transformed themselves, by the length

of their haires, into the semblance of woman kind;" and that when their

hair decayed from age, or other causes, "they knit about their heads

certain rolls and braidings of false hair." At last accident turned the

tide of fashion. A knight of the court, who was exceedingly proud of

his beauteous locks, dreamed one night that, as he lay in bed, the devil

sprang upon him, and endeavoured to choke him with his own hair. He

started in affright, and actually found that he had a great quantity of

hair in his mouth. Sorely stricken in conscience, and looking upon the

dream as a warning from Heaven, he set about the work of reformation,

and cut off his luxuriant tresses the same night. The story was soon

bruited abroad; of course it was made the most of by the clergy, and the

knight, being a man of influence and consideration, and the acknowledged

leader of the fashion, his example, aided by priestly exhortations, was

very generally imitated. Men appeared almost as decent as St. Wulstan

himself could have wished, the dream of a dandy having proved more

efficacious than the entreaties of a saint. But, as Stowe informs us,

"scarcely was one year past, when all that thought themselves courtiers

fell into the former vice, and contended with women in their long

haires." Henry, the King, appears to have been quite uninfluenced by the

dreams of others, for even his own would not induce him a second time

to undergo a cropping from priestly shears. It is said, that he was

much troubled at this time by disagreeable visions. Having offended

the church in this and other respects, he could get no sound refreshing

sleep, and used to imagine that he saw all the bishops, abbots, and

monks of every degree, standing around his bed-side, and threatening to

belabour him with their pastoral staves; which sight, we are told, so

frightened him, that he often started naked out of his bed, and attacked

the phantoms sword in hand. Grimbalde, his physician, who, like most of

his fraternity at that day, was an ecclesiastic, never hinted that his

dreams were the result of a bad digestion, but told him to shave his

head, be reconciled to the Church, and reform himself with alms and

prayer. But he would not take this good advice, and it was not until he

had been nearly drowned a year afterwards, in a violent storm at sea,

that he repented of his evil ways, cut his hair short, and paid proper

deference to the wishes of the clergy.

In France, the thunders of the Vatican with regard to long curly hair

were hardly more respected than in England. Louis VII. however, was

more obedient than his brother-king, and cropped himself as closely as

a monk, to the great sorrow of all the gallants of his court. His Queen,

the gay, haughty, and pleasure-seeking Eleanor of Guienne, never admired

him in this trim, and continually reproached him with imitating, not

only the headdress, but the asceticism of the monks. From this cause, a

coldness arose between them. The lady proving at last unfaithful to her

shaven and indifferent lord, they were divorced, and the Kings of France

lost the rich provinces of Guienne and Poitou, which were her dowry.

She soon after bestowed her hand and her possessions upon Henry Duke

of Normandy, afterwards Henry II of England, and thus gave the English

sovereigns that strong footing in France which was for so many centuries

the cause of such long and bloody wars between the nations.

When the Crusades had drawn all the smart young fellows into Palestine,

the clergy did not find it so difficult to convince the staid burghers

who remained in Europe, of the enormity of long hair. During the absence

of Richard Coeur de Lion, his English subjects not only cut their hair

close, but shaved their faces. William Fitzosbert, or Long-beard, the

great demagogue of that day, reintroduced among the people who claimed

to be of Saxon origin the fashion of long hair. He did this with the

view of making them as unlike as possible to the citizens and the

Normans. He wore his own beard hanging down to his waist, from whence

the name by which he is best known to posterity.

The Church never showed itself so great an enemy to the beard as to long

hair on the head. It generally allowed fashion to take its own course,

both with regard to the chin and the upper lip. This fashion varied

continually; for we find that, in little more than a century after the

time of Richard I, when beards were short, that they had again become

so long as to be mentioned in the famous epigram made by the Scots who

visited London in 1327, when David, son of Robert Bruce, was married to

Joan, the sister of King Edward. This epigram, which was stuck on the

church-door of St. Peter Stangate, ran as follows--

"Long beards heartlesse,

Painted hoods witlesse,

Gray coats gracelesse,

Make England thriftlesse."

When the Emperor Charles V. ascended the throne of Spain, he had no

beard. It was not to be expected that the obsequious parasites who

always surround a monarch, could presume to look more virile than their

master. Immediately all the courtiers appeared beardless, with the

exception of such few grave old men as had outgrown the influence of

fashion, and who had determined to die bearded as they had lived. Sober

people in general saw this revolution with sorrow and alarm, and thought

that every manly virtue would be banished with the beard. It became at

the time a common saying,--

"Desde que no hay barba, no hay mas alma."

We have no longer souls since we have lost our beards.

In France, also, the beard fell into disrepute after the death of Henry

IV, from the mere reason that his successor was too young to have

one. Some of the more immediate friends of the great Bearnais, and

his minister Sully among the rest, refused to part with their beards,

notwithstanding the jeers of the new generation.

Who does not remember the division of England into the two great parties

of Roundheads and Cavaliers? In those days, every species of vice and

iniquity was thought by the Puritans to lurk in the long curly tresses

of the Monarchists, while the latter imagined that their opponents were

as destitute of wit, of wisdom, and of virtue, as they were of hair. A

man's locks were the symbol of his creed, both in politics and religion.

The more abundant the hair, the more scant the faith; and the balder the

head, the more sincere the piety.

But among all the instances of the interference of governments with

men's hair, the most extraordinary, not only for its daring, but for its

success is that of Peter the Great, in 1705. By this time, fashion had

condemned the beard in every other country in Europe, and with a voice

more potent than Popes or Emperors, had banished it from civilized

society. But this only made the Russians cling more fondly to their

ancient ornament, as a mark to distinguish them from foreigners, whom

they hated. Peter, however resolved that they should be shaven. If he

had been a man deeply read in history, he might have hesitated before

he attempted so despotic an attack upon the time-hallowed customs

and prejudices of his countrymen; but he was not. He did not know

or consider the danger of the innovation; he only listened to the

promptings of his own indomitable will, and his fiat went forth, that

not only the army, but all ranks of citizens, from the nobles to the

serfs, should shave their beards. A certain time was given, that people

might get over the first throes of their repugnance, after which every

man who chose to retain his beard was to pay a tax of one hundred

roubles. The priests and the serfs were put on a lower footing, and

allowed to retain theirs upon payment of a copeck every time they passed

the gate of a city. Great discontent existed in consequence, but the

dreadful fate of the Strelitzes was too recent to be forgotten, and

thousands who had the will had not the courage to revolt. As is well

remarked by a writer in the "Encyclopedia Britannica," they thought it

wiser to cut off their beards than to run the risk of incensing a man

who would make no scruple in cutting off their heads. Wiser, too, than

the popes and bishops of a former age, he did not threaten them with

eternal damnation, but made them pay in hard cash the penalty of their

disobedience. For many years, a very considerable revenue was collected

from this source. The collectors gave in receipt for its payment a

small copper coin, struck expressly for the purpose, and called the

"borodovaia," or "the bearded." On one side it bore the figure of a

nose, mouth, and moustachios, with a long bushy beard, surmounted by

the words, "Deuyee Vyeatee," "money received;" the whole encircled by a

wreath, and stamped with the black eagle of Russia. On the reverse,

it bore the date of the year. Every man who chose to wear a beard was

obliged to produce this receipt on his entry into a town. Those who were

refractory, and refused to pay the tax, were thrown into prison.

Since that day, the rulers of modern Europe have endeavoured to

persuade, rather than to force, in all matters pertaining to fashion.

The Vatican troubles itself no more about beards or ringlets, and men

may become hairy as bears, if such is their fancy, without fear of

excommunication or deprivation of their political rights. Folly has

taken a new start, and cultivates the moustachio.

Even upon this point governments will not let men alone. Religion as

yet has not meddled with it; but perhaps it will; and politics already

influence it considerably. Before the revolution of 1830, neither the

French nor Belgian citizens were remarkable for their moustachios;

but, after that event, there was hardly a shopkeeper either in Paris or

Brussels whose upper lip did not suddenly become hairy with real or mock

moustachios. During a temporary triumph gained by the Dutch soldiers

over the citizens of Louvain, in October 1830, it became a standing joke

against the patriots, that they shaved their faces clean immediately;

and the wits of the Dutch army asserted, that they had gathered

moustachios enough from the denuded lips of the Belgians to stuff

mattresses for all the sick and wounded in their hospital.

The last folly of this kind is still more recent. In the German

newspapers, of August 1838, appeared an ordonnance, signed by the King

of Bavaria, forbidding civilians, on any pretence whatever, to wear

moustachios, and commanding the police and other authorities to arrest,

and cause to be shaved, the offending parties. "Strange to say," adds

"Le Droit," the journal from which this account is taken, "moustachios

disappeared immediately, like leaves from the trees in autumn; everybody

made haste to obey the royal order, and not one person was arrested."

The King of Bavaria, a rhymester of some celebrity, has taken a good

many poetical licences in his time. His licence in this matter appears

neither poetical nor reasonable. It is to be hoped that he will not take

it into his royal head to make his subjects shave theirs; nothing but

that is wanting to complete their degradation.

DUELS AND ORDEALS

There was an ancient sage philosopher,

Who swore the world, as he could prove,

Was mad of fighting. * * *

Hudibras,

Most writers, in accounting for the origin of duelling, derive it from

the warlike habits of those barbarous nations who overran Europe in the

early centuries of the Christian era, and who knew no mode so effectual

for settling their differences as the point of the sword. In fact,

duelling, taken in its primitive and broadest sense, means nothing

more than combatting, and is the universal resort of all wild animals,

including man, to gain or defend their possessions, or avenge their

insults. Two dogs who tear each other for a bone, or two bantams

fighting on a dunghill for the love of some beautiful hen, or two fools

on Wimbledon Common, shooting at each other to satisfy the laws of

offended honour, stand on the same footing in this respect, and are,

each and all, mere duellists. As civilization advanced, the best

informed men naturally grew ashamed of such a mode of adjusting

disputes, and the promulgation of some sort of laws for obtaining

redress for injuries was the consequence. Still there were many cases

in which the allegations of an accuser could not be rebutted by any

positive proof on the part of the accused; and in all these, which must

have been exceedingly numerous in the early stages of European society,

the combat was resorted to. From its decision there was no appeal. God

was supposed to nerve the arm of the combatant whose cause was just, and

to grant him the victory over his opponent. As Montesquieu well remarks,

["Esprit des Loix," liv. xxviii. chap. xvii.] this belief was not

unnatural among a people just emerging from barbarism. Their manners

being wholly warlike, the man deficient in courage, the prime virtue

of his fellows, was not unreasonably suspected of other vices besides

cowardice, which is generally found to be co-existent with treachery.

He, therefore, who showed himself most valiant in the encounter,

was absolved by public opinion from any crime with which he might be

charged. As a necessary consequence, society would have been reduced to

its original elements, if the men of thought, as distinguished from the

men of action, had not devised some means for taming the unruly passions

of their fellows. With this view, governments commenced by restricting

within the narrowest possible limits the cases in which it was lawful

to prove or deny guilt by the single combat. By the law of Gondebaldus,

King of the Burgundians, passed in the year 501, the proof by combat was

allowed in all legal proceedings, in lieu of swearing. In the time of

Charlemagne, the Burgundian practice had spread over the empire of the

Francs, and not only the suitors for justice, but the witnesses, and

even the judges, were obliged to defend their cause, their evidence,

or their decision, at the point of the sword. Louis the Debonnaire, his

successor, endeavoured to remedy the growing evil, by permitting the

duel only in appeals of felony, in civil cases, or issue joined in a

writ of right, and in cases of the court of chivalry, or attacks upon

a man's knighthood. None were exempt from these trials, but women, the

sick and the maimed, and persons under fifteen or above sixty years of

age. Ecclesiastics were allowed to produce champions in their stead.

This practice, in the course of time, extended to all trials of civil

and criminal cases, which had to be decided by battle.

The clergy, whose dominion was an intellectual one, never approved of a

system of jurisprudence which tended so much to bring all things under

the rule of the strongest arm. From the first they set their faces

against duelling, and endeavoured, as far as the prejudices of their

age would allow them, to curb the warlike spirit, so alien from the

principles of religion. In the Council of Valentia, and afterwards

in the Council of Trent, they excommunicated all persons engaged in

duelling, and not only them, but even the assistants and spectators,

declaring the custom to be hellish and detestable, and introduced by the

Devil for the destruction both of body and soul. They added, also, that

princes who connived at duels, should be deprived of all temporal power,

jurisdiction, and dominion over the places where they had permitted them

to be fought. It will be seen hereafter that this clause only encouraged

the practice which it was intended to prevent.

But it was the blasphemous error of these early ages to expect that the

Almighty, whenever he was called upon, would work a miracle in favour of

a person unjustly accused. The priesthood, in condemning the duel, did

not condemn the principle on which it was founded. They still encouraged

the popular belief of Divine interference in all the disputes or

differences that might arise among nations or individuals. It was the

very same principle that regulated the ordeals, which, with all their

influence, they supported against the duel. By the former, the power of

deciding the guilt or innocence was vested wholly in their hands, while,

by the latter, they enjoyed no power or privilege at all. It is not to

be wondered at, that for this reason, if for no other, they should have

endeavoured to settle all differences by the peaceful mode. While that

prevailed, they were as they wished to be, the first party in the state;

but while the strong arm of individual prowess was allowed to be the

judge in all doubtful cases, their power and influence became secondary

to those of nobility.

Thus, it was not the mere hatred of bloodshed which induced them to

launch the thunderbolts excommunication against the combatants; it a

desire to retain the power, which, to do them justice, they were, in

those times, the persons best qualified to wield. The germs of knowledge

and civilization lay within the bounds of their order; for they were

the representatives of the intellectual, as the nobility were of the

physical power of man. To centralize this power in the Church, and

make it the judge of the last resort in all appeals, both in civil and

criminal cases, they instituted five modes of trial, the management

of which lay wholly in their hands. These were the oath upon the

Evangelists; the ordeal of the cross, and the fire ordeal, for persons

in the higher ranks; the water ordeal, for the humbler classes; and,

lastly, the Corsned, or bread and cheese ordeal, for members of their

own body.

The oath upon the Evangelists was taken in the following manner:

the accused who was received to this proof, says Paul Hay, Count du

Chastelet, in his Memoirs of Bertrand du Guesclin, swore upon a copy of

the New Testament, and on the relics of the holy martyrs, or on their

tombs, that he was innocent of the crime imputed to him. He was also

obliged to find twelve persons, of acknowledged probity, who should take

oath at the same time, that they believed him innocent. This mode

of trial led to very great abuses, especially in cases of disputed

inheritance, where the hardest swearer was certain of the victory. This

abuse was one of the principal causes which led to the preference given

to the trial by battle. It is not all surprising that a feudal baron, or

captain of the early ages, should have preferred the chances of a fair

fight with his opponent, to a mode by which firm perjury would always be

successful.

The trial by, or judgment of, the cross, which Charlemagne begged his

sons to have recourse to, in case of disputes arising between them, was

performed thus:--When a person accused of any crime had declared his

innocence upon oath, and appealed to the cross for its judgment in his

favour, he was brought into the church, before the altar. The priests

previously prepared two sticks exactly like one another, upon one of

which was carved a figure of the cross. They were both wrapped up with

great care and many ceremonies, in a quantity of fine wool, and laid

upon the altar, or on the relics of the saints. A solemn prayer was then

offered up to God, that he would be pleased to discover, by the judgment

of his holy cross, whether the accused person were innocent or guilty. A

priest then approached the altar, and took up one of the sticks, and the

assistants unswathed it reverently. If it was marked with the cross,

the accused person was innocent; if unmarked, he was guilty. It would be

unjust to assert, that the judgments thus delivered were, in all

cases, erroneous; and it would be absurd to believe that they were left

altogether to chance. Many true judgments were doubtless given, and, in

all probability, most conscientiously; for we cannot but believe that

the priests endeavoured beforehand to convince themselves by secret

inquiry and a strict examination of the circumstances, whether the

appellant were innocent or guilty, and that they took up the crossed

or uncrossed stick accordingly. Although, to all other observers, the

sticks, as enfolded in the wool, might appear exactly similar, those who

enwrapped them could, without any difficulty, distinguish the one from

the other.

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