CHAPTER XXXII.

EARTHQUAKES AND VOLCANOES IN CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO.

BY TRUMBULL WHITE.

=A Region Frequently Disturbed by Subterranean

Forces--Guatemala a Fated City--A Lake Eruption in

Honduras Described by a Great Painter--City of San

Jose Destroyed--Inhabitants Leave the Vicinity to

Wander as Beggars--Disturbances on the Route of the

Proposed Nicaraguan Canal--San Salvador is Shaken--Mexican

Cities Suffer.=

Central America is continually being disturbed by subterranean forces.

Around the deep bays of this vast and splendid region, upon the shores

laved by the waters of the Pacific, and also about the large inland

lakes, rise, like an army of giants, a number of lofty volcanoes.

Whilst most of them are wrapped in slumber which has lasted for

centuries, others occasionally roar and groan as if in order to keep

themselves awake, and to watch well over their sleeping companions.

The fire which consumes their entrails extends far beneath the soil,

and often causes it to tremble. Three times within thirty years the

town of Guatemala has been destroyed by earthquakes, and there is not

in all Guatemala, Honduras, or any other state of Central America a

single coast which has not been visited by one or more violent

subterranean shocks. When the earthquakes occur in remote regions, far

from the habitations of men, in the midst of virgin forests, or in the

vicinity of large lakes, they give rise to very singular phenomena.

In 1856, a painter, entrusted with an official mission in Honduras,

witnessed an event of this kind, and though he sought to conceal his

identity, he was generally believed to be Herr Heine, the well-known

painter and explorer of Central America. Upon the day in question he

was sailing across a large lagoon named Criba, some twenty miles

broad, the weather being calm, and the sun shining brilliantly. After

having secured his boat to the shore, he had landed at the entrance to

a beautiful little village commanding a view of the plain dotted with

houses and with stately trees. Upon the opposite shore extended the

forest, with the sea in the far distance. The chief inhabitant of the

village having invited Herr Heine and his companions to come in and

rest, the whole party were seated beneath the veranda of the house,

engaged in pleasant conversation. Suddenly, a loud noise was heard in

the forest. The birds flew off in terror; the cocoanut palms bent and

writhed as if in panic, and large branches of them snapped off; shrubs

were torn up from the ground and carried across the lake. All this was

the effect of a whirlwind traveling through space from south to north.

The whole affair lasted only a few seconds, and calm was

re-established in Nature as suddenly as it had been disturbed.

Conversation, of course, then turned upon the phenomenon just

witnessed, and the natives maintained that atmospheric disturbances of

this kind are the forerunners of severe earthquakes or violent

volcanic eruptions; some of them declaring that a disaster of this

character had doubtless just occurred somewhere. The host, an elderly

man much esteemed in the district for his knowledge, went on to

describe many such catastrophes which he himself had witnessed. He

spoke more particularly of the eruption of the volcano of Coseguina,

in Nicaragua, which had been preceded by a fierce whirlwind, which had

been so strong that it carried pieces of rock and ashes to a distance

of nearly a mile. The captain of a large sailing vessel had told him

that upon the following day, when more than 100 miles from the coast,

he had found the sea covered with pumice-stone, and had experienced

great difficulty in threading a way for his vessel through these

blocks of volcanic stone which were floating upon the surface like

icebergs.

Everyone, including the European, had his story to tell, and while the

party were still in conversation, a terrible noise like thunder was

heard, and the earth began to quake. At first the shocks were felt to

be rising upward, but after a few seconds they became transformed into

undulations traveling northward, just as the sudden whirlwind had

done. The soil undulated like the surface of a stormy sea, and the

trees were rocked to and fro so violently that the topmost branches of

the palms came in contact with the ground and snapped off. The

traveler and his friends, believing themselves to be out of danger,

were able to follow with ever-increasing interest the rapid phases of

the disturbance, when a strange and alarming phenomenon attracted

their notice.

"Our attention was called," relates Herr Heine, "to a terrible

commotion in the direction of the lagoon, but I cannot express what I

then saw, I did not know if I was awake or a prey to a nightmare;

whether I was in the world of reality or in the world of spirits."

The water of the lagoon disappeared as if it were engulfed in a sort

of a subterranean cavern, or rather, it turned over upon itself, so

that from the shore to the center of the lake the bed was quite empty.

But in a few moments the water reappeared, and mounting toward the

center of the enormous basin, it formed an immense column, which,

roaring and flecked with foam, reached so high that it intercepted the

sunlight. Suddenly, the column of water collapsed with a noise as of

thunder, and the foaming waves dashed toward the shore. Herr Heine and

his companions would have perished if they had not been standing upon

elevated ground, and, as it was, they could not restrain an

exclamation of horror as they saw this mass of water, like solid rock,

rolling along the plain, carrying trees, large stones, and whole

fields before it.

"I saw all that without at first thinking of our own fate," recites

Herr Heine, "and I think that the greatness of the peril which

threatened the whole country made me indifferent as to the fate of

myself and my companions. In any case, when I saw my familiar

companion, Carib, nearly carried off, I remained indifferent, and it

was only after two others of my followers, Manuel and Michel, had had

very narrow escapes, that I succeeded in shaking off my apathy, and

going to their assistance."

When the travelers, whose boat had disappeared, started for the town

of San Jose, whence they had come in the morning, they were able to

judge for themselves as to the extent of the disaster. All the country

which they had passed through had been laid waste. Large masses of

rock had been detached from the mountains, and obstructed the course

of streams which had overflown their banks or changed their course.

Whole villages had been destroyed, and in all directions arose the

lamentations of the unfortunate inhabitants. The region over which the

waters of the lagoon had been carried was no longer to be identified

as the same, covered as it was with debris of every kind, and with a

thick layer of sand and rock.

When they started in the morning, the travelers had left San Jose

prosperous and full of cheerful stir, but when they returned at night

they found it in ruins and almost deserted. The earthquake had

overthrown all the houses with the exception of about twenty, and

these were very badly damaged.

All the buildings in solid masonry, including the massive church, were

heaps of ruins; and most of the inhabitants had perished. The Indians

who were prowling in the outskirts of the town took advantage of the

catastrophe to carry off all they could from the houses which were

still standing and from the ruins of the others. The agility with

which these Indians move about among the ruins and escape the falling

walls is something wonderful, and they never hesitate to risk their

lives for a very trifle.

In Central America disasters of this kind invariably cause many of

the inhabitants to emigrate. Men, women, and children form themselves

into groups, and travel through the country. They set the drama in

which they have taken part to music, and they journey from one village

to another, singing the rude verses they have composed, and then

sending the hat around. After they have visited the whole of their own

country, they cross into the neighboring state, where they are also

assured of a profitable tour. Thus for more than a year Honduras and

Nicaragua were visited by bands of homeless victims, chanting in

monotone the eruption of Lake Criba and the terrible catastrophe of

San Jose.

The western half of Nicaragua, including the basin in which lie Lakes

Managua and Nicaragua, is a volcanic center, including some of the

largest of the twenty-five active cones and craters of Central

America. Stretching from northwest to southeast, the string of craters

beginning with Coseguina and Viejo reaches well into the lake basin.

At the northern end of Lake Managua stands Momotombo, while from the

lake itself rises Momotombito. On the northwestern shore of Lake

Nicaragua lies the volcano Mombocho, while between the two lakes is

the volcano Masaya. Near the center of Lake Nicaragua are the two

volcanoes of Madera and Omotepe.

Since 1835 there have been six eruptions in Nicaragua, one of them, in

1883, being an outbreak in the crater of Omotepe in Lake Nicaragua,

the route of the proposed Nicaraguan canal. The Coseguina eruption,

the uproar of which was heard more than 1,000 miles away, threw the

headland upon which it stands 787 feet out into the sea, and rained

ashes and pumice-stone over an area estimated at 1,200,000 square

miles.

Like all Spanish towns in America, San Salvador, capital of the

republic of that name, covers a large area in proportion to its

population. The houses are low, none of them having more than one

story, while the walls are very thick in order to be capable of

resisting earthquakes. Inside each house of the better class is a

courtyard, planted with trees, generally having a fountain in the

center. It was to these spacious courtyards that, in 1854, many of the

inhabitants of San Salvador owed their lives, as they found in them a

refuge from their falling houses. On the night of April 16, the city

was reduced to a heap of ruins, only a single public building and very

few private ones having been left standing. Nearly 5,000 of the

inhabitants were buried in the ruins. There was a premonitory shock

before the great one, and many took heed of its warning and escaped to

places of safety, otherwise the loss of life would have been even more

terrible.

Guatemala was visited with a series of almost daily tremors from the

middle of April to the middle of June, 1870. The most severe shock was

on the 12th of June and was sufficiently powerful to overthrow many

buildings.

The republic of San Salvador was again visited by a great earthquake

in October, 1878. Many towns, such as Incuapa, Guadeloupe, and

Santiago de Marie, were almost totally destroyed, and many lives were

lost. The shock causing the most damage had at first a kind of

oscillatory movement lasting over forty seconds and ending in a

general upheaval of the earth; the result being that solid walls,

arches, and strongly braced roofs, were broken and severed like

pipe-stems. In the vicinity of Incuapa a number of villages

disappeared entirely.

The mountainous region of Mexico is highly volcanic, and earthquakes

are of frequent occurrence. Very few of them, however, in the historic

period, have occasioned great loss of either life or property. One of

the most disastrous occurred in January, 1835, when the town of

Acapulco was totally destroyed. In April, ten years later, the City of

Mexico was much shaken. Considerable damage was done to buildings,

especially to churches and other edifices of large size, several of

which were reduced to ruins. The loss of life was limited to less than

twenty. Probably the most serious convulsion the country has

experienced was in 1858, when shocks were felt over almost all the

republic, causing many deaths, and destroying much property. Over 100

people lost their lives on May 11 and 12, 1870, when the city of

Oaxaca was visited by a succession of severe shocks, which tore down

many buildings. Since this time Mexico has been free from convulsions

of any great magnitude, although slight earth tremors are of frequent

occurrence in different parts of the country.

Mexican volcanoes, likewise, are famous for their size, though of late

years no great eruptions have occurred. There are many isolated peaks,

all of volcanic origin, of which Orizaba, with a height of 18,314

feet, and Popocatepetl, 17,300 feet, the most renowned, are both

active. The latter has one crater 5,000 feet in diameter. From the

summit the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico are both visible.

This crater has not erupted for many years, but in former times it

threw its ashes a distance of sixty miles. One can descend into its

depths fully 1,000 feet, and view its sulphur walls, hung with

stalactites of ice, or see its columns of vapor spouting here and

there through crevices that extend down into the interior of the

earth. In the ancient Aztec and Toltec mythology of Mexico, this was

the Hell of Masaya.

Nowadays great sulphur mines on the peak bring profit to the owners,

and ice is quarried from the same vicinity to supply the neighboring

city of Puebla.

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