There have been many plans devised and visionary projects offered to the
public as the best for a well regulated Hot-house. As we intend forming
one for practical purposes, we shall adopt a convenient size, have flues
for the conveyance of heat, and coal or wood for fuel.
_Site and Aspect._--The house should stand on a situation naturally dry,
and if possible sheltered from the north west, and clear from all shade
on the south, east and west, so that the sun may at all times act
effectually upon the house. The standard principle as to aspect is to
set the front directly to the south. Any deviation from that point
should incline to east.
_Dimensions._--The length may be from ten feet upwards; but if beyond
thirty feet, the number of fires and flues are multiplied. The medium
width is from twelve to sixteen feet. Our directions will apply to the
two extreme points, viz. thirty feet by sixteen, and in height at back
from twelve to eighteen feet; the height in front six feet, including
about three feet in brick basement to support the front glass, which
will be two and a half feet, allowing six inches for frame work.
_Furnace and Flues._--It is of great importance to have these erected in
such a manner as will effectually heat the house. The greatest
difficulty is to have the furnace to draw well. As workmen are not
generally conversant on the subject, nor yet understand the effect or
distribution of heat in these departments, we will give minute details
on their construction. The furnace should be outside of the house,
either at back or end; the former is preferable, circumstances not
always allowing it on the other plan. Dig out the furnace hole, or what
is termed stock hole, about five feet deep. Let the door of the furnace
be in the back wall of the house, thereby having all the heated building
inside, that no heat may be lost. The brick work round the furnace
should be from fifteen to eighteen inches thick, laying the inside with
fire-brick. The furnace will require to be two and a half feet long, ten
inches wide, and one foot high, before the spring of the arch and clear
of the bars; leave one foot for an ash pit, then lay the bars. They
should be sixteen inches long, one inch broad on the upper side, two
inches deep, and two eighths broad on the lower side, and with the door
and frame should be cast iron. Half an inch between each bar will be
sufficient. The flue should rise from the furnace by a steep declivity
of about two feet, and pass the door of the house (without a dip), when
it must be elevated above the level of the floor of the house along the
front, and at the opposite end of the house must dip to pass the door.
The dip must not be lower than the top of the furnace, and should be of
a concave form, (avoiding acute angles.) Lead it along the back to enter
the wall over the furnace. When thus taken round the house, the heat
will be expanded before it passes off, The inside of the flues should be
about six inches wide and eight inches deep; plaster the bottom of it,
but no other part, as plaster is partially a non-conductor. The above
description is for burning anthracite coal, but where wood is to be the
fuel, the furnace and flues must be one half larger. We have been
particular in the description of furnace bars, as those generally used
are miserable substitutes. Circumstances may cause the furnace to be
placed at the end or front of the house. In either case the stock hole
will not require to be so deep; or where there is only one door in the
house a stock hole three and a half feet deep will be enough, which
should be built like a cellar to keep out any under water. In all
instances pass the first flue to the front of the house, over which have
a close shelf eight inches clear, covered with two inches of sand, and
by keeping it moist will afford a very congenial heat to young valuable
plants. Likewise over the furnace have a frame in the same manner, which
will be found valuable. Any part of the furnace or flue that is under
the floor of the house, should have a vacuity on both sides to let the
heat pass upward.
_Bark Pit._--We consider such an erection in the centre of a Hot-house a
nuisance, and prefer a stage, which may be constructed according to
taste. It should be made of the best Carolina pine, leaving a passage
round the whole to cause a free circulation of air. The back and end
paths should be about two feet wide, and the front three feet. The angle
of the stage should be parallel with the glass, having the steps from
six inches to one foot apart.
Where there are some large plants, they may stand on the floor behind
the stage, or on tressels, according to their height.
_Angle of the glazed roof._--The pitch of the roof is usually varied to
agree with the design of the house, and the size of the plants to be
grown therein. Where pleasure and ornament are the principal objects,
the angle should be about 43°, but a few degrees of inclination either
way is of minor importance, the height and elevation being regulated by
the size of the plants intended to be cultivated. It is not advisable to
shingle any part of the roof on the south aspect.
_Materials for glazed frames._--Carolina pine is the best material for
the wood work, as it is not so subject to decay from moisture and heat
as the other kinds of pine wood. The frames or sashes can be of any
convenient length, not exceeding ten feet, and about three and a half or
four feet wide, divided so as they can be glazed with glass six inches
wide.
_Of glazing._ The pieces of glass should not exceed six inches by ten,
the lappings about one quarter of an inch. The frames ought to have one
coat of paint previous to glazing, and all under the glass puttied. Some
prefer the lappings to be puttied also. It is our opinion that in a
Hot-house these should not be puttied, but in the Green-house the closer
they can be made the better.
_Of Shutters._--These should be made of half inch white pine, and bound
on both ends and sides, having a cross piece in the middle of the same.
They ought to be painted once in three years.