These plants, about the first of the month, require a complete dressing.
In the first place collect them all together, and with a sharp knife cut
off the wood of this year to within a few eyes of the wood of last year.
_Citriodórum_ and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants grown
from cuttings during the season, that have flowered, cut them to about
four inches from the pot. This being done, have the earth all prepared
with potshreds or fine gravel for draining the delicate kinds. And in a
shaded situation turn the plants progressively out of the pots they are
in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same pots may contain them
again, and allow from half an inch to two inches, according to the size
of the pot, of fresh soil around the ball, which press down by a thin
piece of wood cut for the purpose. Finish by leveling all neatly with
the hand. Give very gentle waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a
few weeks, until they have begun to grow, protecting them entirely from
the sun, till that period, then take the opportunity of a cloudy day to
expose them. After this repotting, the following kinds are liable to
suffer from too much water: _Pavonínum_, _Davey[)a]num_, _fúlgens_,
_ardens_, _citriodórum_, _rubéscens_, _florabùndum_, _ardèscens_; with
those of a similar habit, and these species do not require so much
encouragement at the root as the strong growing sorts. The tuberous
rooted and deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be
careful when watering that the new soil does not become saturated with
water, as, though allowed to dry again, it will not be so pure. When
they shoot afresh, turn them regularly every two weeks, to prevent them
growing to one side.
ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.
As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees into larger
tubs in the months of March and April, this month is a period that is
suitable both from the growth of the trees, and their being in the open
air. It would be improper to state the day or the week, that depending
entirely on the season. The criterion is easily observed, which is when
the first growth is over, these trees making another growth in autumn.
When they are large, they require great exertion, and are frequently
attended with inconvenience to get them shifted. Where there is a
quantity of them, the best plan that we have tried or seen adopted is as
follows: Have a strong double and a single block trimmed with a
sufficiency of rope; make it fast to the limb of a large tree, or any
thing that projects, and will bear the weight, and as high as will admit
of the plant being raised a few feet under it. Take a soft bandage and
put around the stem, to prevent the bark from being bruised; make a rope
fast to it, in which hook the single block. Raise the plant the height
of the tub, put a spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with a
mallet, which will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a strong
pointed stick probe a little of the earth from amongst the roots,
observing to cut away any that are affected by dry-rot, damp, or
mildew, with any very matted roots. Having all dressed, place a few
potshreds over the hole or holes in the bottom of the tub; measure
exactly the depth of the ball that remains around the plant, and fill up
with earth, pressing it a little with the hand, until it will hold the
ball one inch under the edge of the tub. If there is from four to six
inches of earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around the ball,
and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off with the hand.
Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly in the centre. This being
done, carry the tree to where it is intended to stand, and give it water
with a rose on the pot. The earth will subside about two inches, thus
leaving three inches, which will at any time hold enough of water for
the tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted again within
four or five years, having in the interim got a few rich top-dressings.
Frequently in attempting to take out of the tubs those that are in a
sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots, having no fibres
attached. When there are any such, after replanting, put them in the
Green-house, and shut it almost close up, there give shade to the tree,
and frequent sprinklings of water, until it begins to grow, when admit
more air gradually until it becomes hardened. These trees should be put
in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil. Give very
moderate supplies of water, merely keeping the soil moist. Tubs
generally give way at the bottom when they begin to decay, and in the
usual method of coopering after this failure they are useless, the
ledging being rotten, and will not admit of another bottom. The staves
should be made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed on the
inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself that it can be placed on
these brackets, and there is no necessity of it being water tight. Then
when it fails, it can be replaced again at a trifling expense. A tub
made this way will last out three or four bottoms, and is in every
respect the cheapest, and should be more wide than deep. _Large Myrtles_
and _Oleanders_ may be treated in the same manner as directed for the
above.
OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.
These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the _Lemon_, if not
frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this month look over them all
minutely, and cut away any of the small naked wood where it is too
crowded, and cut all young strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the
tree, giving it a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary to cut
out a small limb, but large amputations should be avoided. Cover all
wounds with turpentine or bees-wax, to prevent the bad effects of the
air.