According to what we have previously hinted in regard to having roses as
standards, where such are desired, the month of July is a proper time
for the operation of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should be
of a strong free growth. Such as _Ornamental parade_; _Dutch tree_; _R.
vilòsa_; _R. canína_; and frequently the French _Eglantine_, are taken.
Be provided with a proper budding-knife, which has a sharp thin blade
adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory haft made thin at the
end for raising the bark of the stock. For tieings use bass strings from
Russia mats, which should be soaked in water to make them more pliable.
The height of the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is
to be determined by the intended destination of the tree, (as it may be
properly called.) Choose a smooth part of the stem, from one to three
years old. Having marked the place, prune away all the lateral shoots
about and underneath it. With the knife directed horizontally, make an
incision about half an inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting into
the wood, but not deeper; then applying the point of the knife to the
middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision under the first,
extending from it between one and two inches. Having a healthy shoot of
the growth of this year provided of the kind that is desired, begin at
the lower end of this shoot, cut away all the leaves, leaving the
footstalk of each. Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife
about half an inch above the eye, slanting it downwards, and about half
through the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the eye, so as to
bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark, and part of the wood
adhering to it; the wood now must be carefully detached from the bark.
To do this insert the point of the knife between the bark and wood at
one end, and holding the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part, which
will readily part from the bark if the shoot from which the piece is
taken has been properly imbued with sap.[I] Look at the inner rind of
the separated bark, to see if that be entire; if there be a hole in it,
the eye of the bud has been pulled away with the wood, rendering the bud
useless, which throw away; if there be no hole, return to the stock, and
with the haft of the knife gently raise the bark on each side of the
perpendicular incision, opening the lips wide enough to admit the
prepared slip with the eye. If the slip is longer than the upright
incision in the stock, reduce the largest end. Stock and bud being
ready, keep the latter in its natural position, introduce it between the
bark and wood of the stock, pushing it gently downwards until it reaches
the bottom of the perpendicular incision. Let the eye of the bud project
through the centre of the lips; lay the slip with the bud as smooth as
possible, and press down the raised bark of the stock. The bud being
deposited, bind that part of the stock moderately tight with bass,
beginning a little below the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep
the eye uncovered, finishing above the incision. In a month after the
operation, examine whether the bud has united with the stock. If it has
succeeded, the bud will be full and fresh; if not, it will be brown and
contracted. When it has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may
swell, and in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off about
six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots from growing by
pinching them off. This will forward the bud, which will push and ripen
wood this season; but it must be carefully tied as it grows to the
remaining head of the stock. Some do not head down the stock until the
following spring, thereby not encouraging the bud to grow, which if
winter sets in early is the safest method.
[I] We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they had by
mistake been carried in the pocket of a coat three days. The shoot was
soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew. From this we infer
that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be carried very great
distances, and grow successfully.