As the season advances and vegetation increases, the waterings will
require to be more copious and more frequent. Look over all plants
minutely every day, and with judicious care supply their wants. Those
that are of a soft shrubby nature, and in a free-growing state, will
require a larger portion at one time than those of a hard texture, which
may only want it every two or three days. The weather and situation in
some instances may require a modification of these directions. Plants in
general will not suffer so soon from being a little dry as from being
over-watered. The health and beauty of the foliage of the plants may be
much improved by syringing them freely three evenings in the week,
except in moist weather, when it ought not to be done. The ravages of
many insects also will be retarded, especially mildew and red spider,
which will be entirely destroyed. If the red spider is on any of the
plants, particularly take them aside evening and morning, and give them
a good dashing with water through the syringe. Where there is mildew,
after syringing the plant, dust it on the affected parts with flowers of
sulphur, and set them for a few days where they will be sheltered from
the wind, after which wash off the sulphur. If the cure is not complete,
renew the dose. Always sweep out and dry up the water in the house when
any is spilt. The succulent plants will be in want of a little water
about once a week, but do not overwater them, as there is not heat
enough to absorb much moisture. If the soil is damp, it is quite
sufficient.
ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.
Will in many instances about the end of this month be showing flowers or
flower buds. They must under these circumstances have plenty of air to
prevent them from falling off when entirely exposed. The reason that we
see so much fine blossom falling to the ground where the trees are
brought out of the house in May, is from the confinement they have had.
Where there is a convenience of giving air from the back of the
Green-house, it should always be given in mild days, especially in those
houses that have a recess back from the top of the sashes, for even if
the sashes are let down every day, still the house will not be properly
ventilated. Any plants that are sickly and intended to be planted in the
garden next month to renovate their growth, may be cut back, (if not
already done,) as far as is required to give the tree a handsome form,
taking care not to cut below the graft or inoculation. Let the operation
be done with a fine saw and sharp knife, smoothing the amputations that
are made by the saw; and if they are large, put a little well made clay
over the wound, to prevent the air from mortifying the shoot. Turpentine
is preferable to clay, not being subject to crack or fall off by the
weather.
If there are any _Lagerstr[oe]mias_, _Pomegranate_, or _Hydràngeas_ in
the cellar, they should be brought out about the first of the month, and
planted in their respective situations. Give the _Hydràngea_ a very
shady spot. It does not require one ray of the sun, providing it has
plenty of air, and do not plant it into soil that has been lately
manured. A large plant must have great supplies of water in dry weather.
If the plant is very thick, the oldest branches may be thinned out, but
do not cut out any of the young shoots, as they contain the embryo of
the flower. _Lagerstr[oe]mias_ will flower abundantly without pruning,
but to have fine large spikes of flowers, cut in the wood of last year
to about three eyes from the wood of the preceding year; by this they
will be much finer. _Pomegranates_ will only require a little of the
superfluous wood cut out. Perhaps some of them may be desired to flower
in pots or tubs during summer: the balls will admit of being much
reduced, and by this a pot or tub very little larger will do for them.
Do not give much water until they begin to grow.