PRESENT STATE OF SOCIETY IN PARIS.

In this city are three very distinct kinds of society. But the order

I shall adopt in the description of each of them must not, in any

way, lead you to prejudge my opinion respecting the rank which they

hold among the French themselves. In this respect, I shall abstain

from every sort of reflection, and, confining myself to the simple

character of a faithful narrator, shall leave to your sagacity to

decide the question.

I shall begin by the society, chiefly composed of the _ci-devant

noblesse_, several of whom, never having quitted France, have

preserved some of their property; and of emigrants, lately returned

to their own country, and who have enough remaining to allow them to

have a household establishment, but in a very modest style indeed,

compared to that which their rank and fortune enabled them to support

before the revolution.

You present yourself at the residence of _Madame la Marquise de

C----_. In the anti-room, you declare your name and quality to the

groom of the chambers. Then, the opening of one or two folding-doors

announces to the mistress of the house, and to the company, the

_quantum_ of the ceremonies which are to be paid to the newcomer.

Keep your eye constantly on the _Marquise_, her behaviour will

regulate yours in regard to the individuals who compose her party. In

the course of conversation, take special care not to omit the title

of the person to whom you address yourself. Such an instance of

forgetfulness savours of a man of the new _régime_. Never pronounce

the new denominations respecting the divisions of the French

territory, the months, the weights, measures, &c. Those words would

draw on you an unfavourable interpretation. If you are inclined to

hear a discussion on the arts and sciences, or on any new discovery

whatever, you seldom find, in these parties, persons who can gratify

your taste; though you may meet with many who, as Locke says, "know a

little, presume a great deal, and so jump to a conclusion."

From the plebeians, whose presence the _ci-devant_ nobles are so

condescending as to endure, much obsequiousness and servility are

required; and it is expected that the distance of rank should never

be forgotten. But the learned or scientific French revolutionist, who

admits no other distance than that between knowledge and ignorance,

not choosing to submit to such conditions, seldom presents himself at

the house of _Madame la Marquise de C----_. However, you will hear

her company speak of the court of France, of the interest which each

individual had there, and also a few anecdotes not uninteresting, and

which will furnish you with some ideas of the brilliant parties there

formed. After this discussion, one will talk to you of his regiment;

another, of his hunting establishment, of his _châteaux_, of his

estates, &c. _Chez Madame la Marquise de C----_, you will find no

inconsiderable prepossession against every thing that is not of the

old order of things, and even some exclusive pretensions to manners

which belong to those only who are real gentlemen. Yet, through all

these absurdities, you will always see good-breeding prevail in this

society, and the disposition which distinguishes a Frenchman from

other polished nations, will here break forth and present itself to

you in a striking manner.

While speaking of the _ci-devant noblesse_, I cannot forbear to

mention the loss which those who had the happiness of her

acquaintance, have sustained by the recent death of Madame DE

CHOISEUL, the relict of the duke of that name, minister to Lewis XV.

Her virtues shed such a lustre round her, that it reached even the

monarch himself, who, when he banished her husband to Chanteloup,

wrote to him: "I should have sent you much further, but for the

particular esteem I have for Madame DE CHOISEUL, in whose health I

take no small interest." This uncommonly-respectable woman will long

be quoted and deservedly regretted, because she was modest in

greatness, beneficent in prosperity, courageous in misfortune, pure

in the vortex of corruption, solid in the midst of frivolity, as

simple in her language as she was brilliant in her understanding, and

as indulgent to others as she was superior to them in grace and

virtue.

I shall next lead you to the house of a _parvenu_, that is, one of

those, who, from having made some successful speculations, and

possessing a conscience not overnice as to the means of fixing

Fortune, is enabled to live in the expensive style of the _ci-devant_

court-lords and farmers-general. A letter changed in the person's

name, not unfrequently a _de_ or a _St._ added, (sometimes both)

puzzles the curious, who endeavour to discover what was formerly M.

_de St. H------_, now in the enjoyment of an annual income of a

hundred thousand francs, or £4000 sterling.

At his house, more than any where else, etiquette is kept up with an

extraordinary minuteness; and evil tongues will tell you that it is

natural for M. _de St. H------_ to remember and avail himself of the

observations which he had it in his power to make in the place he

formerly occupied. Under his roof, you will find little of that ease

and amiableness which are to be remarked in the other societies of

Paris. Each individual is on his guard, and afraid of betraying

himself by certain expressions, which the force of habit has not yet

allowed him to forget. But if you are fond of good music, if you take

a pleasure in balls, and in the company of _femmes galantes_ or

demireps; and even if first-rate jugglers, ventriloquists, and mimics

amuse you by their skilful performances, frequent the house of M. _de

St. H------_, and every day, or at least every day that he is at

home, you will have a new entertainment.

Between the acts, the company make their remarks, each in his own

way, on what they have just seen or heard. Afterwards, the

conversation turns on the public funds. Little is said, however, on

affairs of State, the bankruptcies of the day, and the profit which

such or such a speculation might produce. The ladies, after having

exhausted the subject of the toilet, finish by giving, as an apology

for their own conduct, the charitable enumeration of the peccadilloes

which they fancy they have remarked in other women.

So little am I disposed for gaming, that I forgot to mention

_bouillotte_, _quinze_, and also whist and reversi, which are

introduced at all these parties. But the two last-mentioned games are

reserved for those only who seek in cards nothing more than a

recreation from the occupations of the day. At the others, gain is

the sole object of the player; and many persons sit at the

gaming-table the whole night, and, in the depth of winter even,

never leave it till the "garish sun" warns them that it is time

to withdraw.

I have now only to introduce you at M. _B------'s_, Counsellor of

State. Here you will find the completion of the other two societies,

and a very numerous party, which affords to every one a conversation

analogous to his taste or his means. Refrain, however, from touching

on politics; the French government, still in its infancy, resembles a

young plant exposed to the inclemency of the air, and whose growth is

directed by skilful hands. This government must remove, and even

sometimes destroy every obstacle it meets with, and which may be

prejudicial to the form and direction that it thinks proper to give

to its branches and various ramifications. Beware, above all, of

speaking of the revolution. That string is too delicate to be touched

in regard to certain individuals of M. _B------'s_ party, perhaps

also in regard to himself: for the periods of the calamities which

the French have undergone are still quite recent, and the parts that

many of these persons may have acted, call to mind recollections too

painful, which, for their tranquillity, ought ever to be buried in

oblivion. And, in fact, you will always perceive, in the meetings of

this class, a harmony, apparent indeed, but which, surprises a

stranger the more, as, of all the societies in Paris, it presents to

him the greatest medley in point of the persons who compose it.

In this society you will hear very instructive dissertations on the

sciences, sound literature, the fine arts, mechanics, and the means

of rendering useful the new discoveries, by applying them with

economy to the French manufactories, either public or private: for M.

_B------_ considers it as his duty to receive with distinction all

the _savans_, and generally all those called men of talent. In this

line of conduct, he follows the example set him by the government;

and every one is desirous to appear a Mæcenas in the eyes of

Augustus. In other respects, the house of M. _B------_ will afford

you the agreeble pastimes which you have found at M. _de St.

H------'s_.

In Paris, however, are several other societies which, to consider

them rightly, are no more than a diminutive of those you have just

left; but which, nevertheless, are of a character sufficiently

distinct in their composition to justify their pretensions to be

classed as well as the others. This difference proceeding chiefly

from that of political opinions alone, an acquaintance with the great

societies here will enable you to select those of the middle class

which you may think proper to frequent, according to your taste, or

your manner of seeing and judging of the events of the French

revolution. Yet, you must not hence conclude that the conversation

turns chiefly on that subject in this particular class of the

Parisian societies. They concern themselves less about it perhaps

than the others, whether from the little share they have had in it,

or because they have but very indirect connexions with the

government, or lastly, and this final reason is, I believe, the most

conclusive, because a Frenchman, from the nature of his character,

ends by forgetting his misfortunes and losses, cares little for the

future, and appears desirous to enjoy the present only; following, in

that respect, the precept of La Fontaine:

_"Jouis dès aujourd'hui, tu n'as pas tant à vivre;

Je te rebàts ce mot--car il vaut tout un livre."_

In truth, although, among this people, vexations and enjoyments are

almost always the result of imagination, they have preserved the

remembrance of their misfortunes only to turn to account the terrible

lessons which they have received from them, by adopting, in regard to

the present and to the future, that happy philosophy which knows how

to yield to the circumstances of the moment. This it is (you may rely

on the fact) that has contributed, more than any other cause, to

re-establish, in so short a period, the order and tranquillity which

France presents to the eyes of astonished foreigners. This it is too

that has, in a great measure, obviated the fatal consequences which

their past troubles must have made them fear for a long time to come,

and for which few remedies could be expected, especially when we

reflect on the divisions which the revolution has sown in almost

every family in this country.

P. S. The sound of cannon, which strikes my ear at this moment,

announces the signature of the definitve treaty. In the evening, a

grand illumination will take place to celebrate the return of the

most desirable of all blessings.

"------------O beauteous Peace!

Sweet union of a State! What else but thou

Giv'st safety, strength, and glory to a people?"

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