55. _La Chaumière, aux Nouveaux Boulevards._

56. _Cabinet de démonstration de Physiologie et de Pathologie, au

Palais du Tribunat, No. 38, au premier._

Although, previously to the revolution, the taste for dramatic

amusements had imperceptibly spread, Paris could then boast of no

more than three principal theatres, exclusively of _l'Opéra Buffa_

introduced in 1788. These were _l'Opéra les Français_, and _les

Italiens_, which, with six inferior ones, called _petits spectacles_,

brought the whole of the theatres to ten in number. The subaltern

houses were incessantly checked in their career by the privileges

granted to the _Comédie Française_, which company alone enjoyed the

right to play first-rate productions: it also possessed that of

censorship, and sometimes exercised it in the most despotic manner.

Authors, ever in dispute with the comedians, who dictated the law to

them, solicited, but in vain, the opening of a second French theatre.

The revolution took place, and the unlimited number of theatres was

presently decreed. A great many new ones were opened; but the

attraction of novelty dispersing the amateurs, the number of

spectators did not always equal the expectation of the managers; and

the profits, divided among so many competitors, ceased to be

sufficiently productive for the support of every establishment of

this description. The consequence was, that several of them were soon

reduced to a state of bankruptcy.

Three theatres of the first and second rank have been destroyed by

fire within these two years, yet upwards of twenty are at present

open, almost every night, exclusively of several associations of

self-denominated _artistes-amateurs._

Amidst this false glare of dramatic wealth, theatres of the first

rank have imperceptibly declined, and at last fallen. It comes not

within my province or intention to seek the causes of this in the

defects of their management; but the fact is notorious. The _Théâtres

Favart_ and _Feydeau_, at each of which French comic operas were

chiefly represented, have at length been obliged to unite the

strength of their talents, and the disgrace which they have

experienced, has not affected any of those inferior playhouses where

subaltern performers establish their success on an assemblage of

scenes more coarse, and language more unpolished.

At the present moment, the government appear to have taken this

decline of the principal theatres into serious consideration. It is,

I understand, alike to be apprehended, that they may concern

themselves too little or too much in their welfare. Hitherto the

persons charged with the difficult task of upholding the falling

theatres of the first rank, have had the good sense to confine their

measures to conciliation; but, of late, it has been rumoured that the

stage is to be subjected to its former restrictions. The benefit

resulting to the art itself and to the public, from a rivalship of

theatres, is once more called in question: and some people even go so

far as to assert that, with the exception of a few abuses, the

direction of the _Gentils-hommes de la chambre_ was extremely good:

thence it should seem that the only difficulty is to find these lords

of the bed-chamber, if there be any still in being, in order to

restore to them their dramatic sceptre.[1]

Doubtless, the liberty introduced by the revolution has been, in many

respects, abused, and in too many, perhaps, relative to places of

public amusement. But must it, on that account, be entirely lost to

the stage, and falling into a contrary excess, must recourse be had

to arbitrary measures, which might also be abused by those to whose

execution they were intrusted? The unlimited number of theatres may

be a proper subject for the interference of the government: but as to

the liberty of the theatres, included in the number that may be fixed

on to represent pieces of every description, such only excepted as

may be hurtful to morals, seems to be a salutary and incontestable

principle. This it is that, by disengaging the French comic opera

from the narrow sphere to which it was confined, has, in a great

measure, effected a musical revolution, at which all persons of taste

must rejoice, by introducing on that stage the harmonic riches of

Italy. This too it is that has produced, on theatres of the second

and third rank, pieces which are neither deficient in regularity,

connexion, representation, nor decoration. The effect of such a

principle was long wanted here before the revolution, when the

independent spirit of dramatic authors was fettered by the

procrastinations of a set of privileged comedians, who discouraged

them by ungracious refusals, or disgusted them by unjust preferences.

Hence, the old adage in France that, when an author had composed a

good piece, he had performed but half his task; this was true, as the

more difficult half, namely, the getting it read and represented,

still remained to be accomplished.

As for the multiplicity of playhouses, it certainly belongs to the

government to limit their number, not by privileges which might be

granted through favour, or obtained, perhaps, for money. The taste of

the public for theatrical diversions being known, the population

should first be considered, as it is that which furnishes both money

and spectators. It would be easy to ascertain the proportion between

the population of the capital and the number of theatres which it

ought to comprise. Public places should be free as to the species of

amusement, but limited in their number, so as not to exceed the

proportion which the population can bear. The houses would then be

constantly well attended, and the proprietors, actors, authors, and

all those concerned in their success, secure against the consequences

of failure, and the true interest of the art be likewise promoted. In

a word, neither absolute independence, nor exclusive privilege should

prevail; but a middle course be adopted, in order to fix the fate of

those great scenic establishments, which, by forming so essential a

part of public diversion, have a proportionate influence on the

morals of the nation.

I have been led, by degrees, into these observations, not only from a

review of the decline of some of the principal playhouses here, but

also from a conviction that their general principle is applicable to

every other capital in Europe. What, for example, can be more absurd

than, in the dog-days, when room and air are particularly requisite,

that the lovers of dramatic amusement in the British metropolis are

to be crammed into a little theatre in the Haymarket, and stewed year

after year, as in a sweating-room at a bagnio, because half a century

ago an exclusive privilege was inconsiderately granted?

The playhouses here, in general, have been well attended this winter,

particularly the principal ones; but, in Paris, every rank has not

exactly its theatre as at a ball. From the _spectacles_ on the

_Boulevards_ to those of the first and second rank, there is a

mixture of company. Formerly, the lower classes confined themselves

solely to the former; at present, they visit the latter. An increase

of wages has enabled the workman to gratify his inclination for the

indulgence of a species of luxury; and, by a sort of instinct, he now

and then takes a peep at those scenes of which he before entertained,

from hearsay, but an imperfect idea.

If you wish to see a new or favourite piece, you must not neglect to

secure a seat in proper time; for, on such occasions, the house is

full long before the rising of the curtain. As to taking places in

the manner we do in England, there is no such arrangement to be made,

except, indeed, you choose to take a whole box, which is expensive.

In that case you pay for it at the time you engage it, and it is kept

locked the whole evening, or till you and your party, make your

appearance.[2]

At all the _spectacles_ in Paris, you are literally kept on the

outside of the house till you have received a ticket, in exchange for

your money, through an aperture in the exterior wall. Within a few

paces of the door of the principal theatres are two receiver's

offices, which are no sooner open, than candidates for admission

begin to form long ranks, extending from the portico into the very

street, and advance to them two abreast in regular succession. A

steady sentinel, posted at the aperture, repeats your wishes to the

receiver, and in a mild, conciliating manner, facilitates their

accomplishment. Other sentinels are stationed for the preservation of

order, under the immediate eye of the officer, who sees that every

one takes his turn to obtain tickets: however, it is not uncommon,

for forestallers to procure a certain number of them, especially at

the representation of a new or favourite piece, and offer them

privately at a usurious price which many persons are glad to pay

rather than fall into the rear of the ranks.

The method I always take to avoid this unpleasant necessity, I will

recommend to you as a very simple one, which may, perhaps, prevent

you from many a theatrical disappointment. Having previously informed

myself what _spectacle_ is best worth seeing, while I am at dinner I

send my _valet de place_, or if I cannot conveniently spare him, I

desire him to dispatch a _commissionnaire_ for the number of tickets

wanted, so that when I arrive at the theatre, I have only to walk in,

and place myself to the best advantage.

It is very wisely imagined not to establish the receiver's offices in

the inside of the house, as in our theatres. By this plan, however

great may be the crowd, the entrance is always unobstructed, and

those violent struggles and pressures, which among us have cost the

lives of many, are effectually prevented. You will observe that no

half-price is taken at any theatre in Paris; but in different parts

of the house, there are offices, called _bureaux de supplément_,

where, if you want to pass from one part of it to another, you

exchange your counter-mark on paying the difference.

Nothing can be better regulated than the present police, both

interior and exterior, of the theatres in Paris. The eye is not

shocked, as was formerly the case, by the presence of black-whiskered

grenadiers, occupying different parts of the house, and, by the

inflexible sternness of their countenance, awing the spectators into

a suppression of their feelings. No fusileer, with a fixed bayonet

and piece loaded with ball, now dictates to the auditors of the pit

that such a seat must hold so many persons, though several among them

might, probably, be as broad-bottomed as Dutchmen. If you find

yourself incommoded by heat or pressure, you are at liberty to

declare it without fear of giving offence. The criticism of a man of

taste is no longer silenced by the arbitrary control of a military

despot, who, for an exclamation or gesture, not exactly coinciding

with his own prepossessions, pointed him out to his myrmidons, and

transferred him at once to prison. You may now laugh with Molèire, or

weep with Racine, without having your mirth or sensibility thus

unseasonably checked in its expansion.

The existence of this despotism has been denied; but facts are

stubborn things, and I will relate to you an instance in which I saw

it most wantonly exercised. Some years ago I was present at the

_Théâtre Français_, when, in one of Corneille's pieces, Mademoiselle

Raucourt, the tragic actress, was particularly negligent in the

delivery of a passage, which, to do justice to the author, required

the nicest discrimination. An amateur in the _parterre_ reproved her,

in a very gentle manner, for a wrong emphasis. Being at this time a

favourite of the queen, she was, it seems, superior to admonition,

and persisted in her misplaced shrieks, till it became evident that

she set the audience at defiance: other persons then joined the

former in expressing their disapprobation. Instantly the _major_

singled out the leading critic: two grenadiers forced their way to

the place where he was seated, and conveyed him to prison for having

had the audacity to reprove an actress in favour at court. From such

improper exercise of authority, the following verse had become a

proverb:

_"II est bien des sifflets, mais nous avons la garde."_

Many there are, I know, who approved of this manner of bridling the

fickle Parisians, on the ground that they were so used to the curb

that they could no longer dispense with it. A guard on the outside of

a theatre is unquestionably necessary, and proper for the

preservation of order; but that the public should not be at liberty

to approve or condemn such a passage, or such an actor, is at once to

stifle the expression of that general opinion which alone can produce

good performers. The interior police of the theatre being at present

almost entirely in the hands of the public themselves, it is, on that

account, more justly observed and duly respected.

Considering the natural impetuosity of their character, one is

surprised at the patient tranquillity with which the French range

themselves in their places. Seldom do they interrupt the performance

by loud conversation, but exchange their thoughts in a whisper. When

one sees them applaud with rapture a tender scene, which breathes

sentiments of humanity or compassion, speaks home to every feeling

heart, and inspires the most agreeable sensations, one is tempted to

question whether the Parisians of the present day belong to the

identical race that could, at one time, display the ferocity of

tigers, and, at another, the tameness of lambs, while their nearest

relations and best friends were daily bleeding on the scaffold?

By the existing regulations, many of which are worthy of being

adopted in London, no theatre can be opened in Paris without the

permission of the police, who depute proper persons to ascertain that

the house is solidly built, the passages and outlets unincumbered and

commodious, and that it is provided with reservoirs of water, and an

adequate number of fire-engines.

Every public place that may be open, is to be shut up immediately,

if, for one single day, the proprietors neglect to keep the

reservoirs full of water, the engines in proper order, and the

firemen ready.

No persons can be admitted behind the scenes, except those employed

in the service of the theatre. Nor is the number of tickets

distributed to exceed that of the persons the house can conveniently

hold.

No coachman, under any pretext whatever, can quit the reins of his

horses, while the persons he has driven, are getting out of or into

their carriage. Indeed, the necessity of his doing so is obviated by

porters stationed at the door of the theatres, and appointed by the

police. They are distinguished by a brass plate, on which their

permission and the name of the theatre are engraved.

At all the theatres in Paris, there is an exterior guard, which is at

the disposal of the _civil_ officer, stationed there for the

preservation of order. This guard cannot enter the inside of the

theatre but in case of the safety of the public being exposed, and at

the express requisition of the said officer, who can never introduce

the armed force into the house, till after he has, in a loud voice,

apprized the audience of his intention.

Every citizen is bound to obey, _provisionally_, the officer of

police. In consequence, every person invited by the officer of

police, or summoned by him, to quit the house, is immediately to

repair to the police-office of the theatre, in order to give such

explanations as may be required of him. The said officer may either

transfer him to the competent tribunal, or set him at liberty,

according to circumstances.

Proper places are appointed for carriages to wait at. When the play

is ended, no carriage in waiting can move till the first crowd coming

out of the house has disappeared. The commanding officer of the guard

on duty decides the moment when carriages may be called.

No carriage can move quicker than a foot-pace, and but on a single

rank, till it has got clear of the streets in the vicinity of the

theatre. Nor can it arrive thither but by the streets appointed for

that purpose.

Two hours before the rising of the curtain, sentinels are placed in

sufficient number to facilitate the execution of these orders, and to

prevent any obstruction in the different avenues of the theatre.

Indeed, obstruction is now seldom seen; I have more than once had the

curiosity to count, and cause to be counted, all the _private_

carriages in waiting at the grand French opera, on a night when the

boxes were filled with the most fashionable company. Neither I nor my

_valet de place_ could ever reckon more than from forty to fifty;

whereas, formerly, it was not uncommon to see here between two and

three hundred; and the noise of so many equipages rattling through

the streets, from each of the principal theatres, sufficiently

indicated that the performance was ended.

By the number of advertisements in the _petites affiches_ or daily

advertiser of Paris, offering a reward for articles lost, no doubt

can exist of there being a vast number of pickpockets in this gay

capital; and a stranger must naturally draw such an inference from

observing where the pockets are placed in men's clothes: in the coat,

it is in the inside of the facing, parallel to the breast: in the

waistcoat, it is also in the inside, but lower down, so that when a

Frenchman wants to take out his money, he must go through the

ceremony of unbuttoning first his surtout, if he wears one in winter,

then his coat, and lastly his waistcoat. In this respect, the ladies

have the advantage; for, as I have already mentioned, they wear no

pockets.

[Footnote 1: During the old _régime_, the theatres were under the

control of the _Gentils-hommes de la chambre_, but at the

establishment of the directorial government, they were placed in the

power of the Minister of the Interior, in whose department they have

since continued. Of late, however, it is asserted, that they are each

to be under the direction of a Prefect of the Palace.]

[Footnote 2: Independently of the boxes reserved for the officers of

the staff of the city of Paris, and those at the head of the police,

who have individually free admission to all the _spectacles_ on

producing their ivory ticket, there is also a box at each theatre

appropriated to the Minister of Public Instruction.]

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