WOVEN RAG PORTIERES.
Rag weaving is not necessarily confined to rugs, for very beautiful
portieres and table and lounge covers may be woven from carefully
chosen and prepared rags. The process is practically the same, the
difference being like that between coarse and fine needlework, where
finer material and closer and more painstaking handiwork is bestowed.
The result is like a homespun cloth. Both warp and woof must be finer
than in ordinary carpet weaving. Instead of coarse cotton yarn, warp
must be fine "mercerized" cotton, or of linen or silk thread, and the
warp threads are set much closer in the loom. In place of ten or
twelve threads to the inch, there should be from fifteen to twenty.
The woof or filling may be old or new, and either of fine cotton,
merino, serge, or other wool material, or of silk. The ordinary
"silk-rag portiere" is not a very attractive hanging, being somewhat
akin to the crazy quilt, and made, as is that bewildering production,
from a collection of ribbons and silk pieces of all colours and
qualities, cut and sewed together in a haphazard way, without any
arrangement of colour or thought of effect, and sent to the weaver
with a vague idea of getting something of worth from valueless
material. This is quite a different thing from a silk portiere made
from some beautiful old silk garment, which is too much worn for
further use, where warp and woof colour are selected for fitness and
harmony, and the weaver uses her rags, as the painter does his
colours, with a purpose of artistic effect. If the work is done from
that point of view, the last state of the once beautiful old garment
may truly be said to be better than the first. If a light cloth is
used for this kind of manufacture, it may be torn into strips so
narrow as to simulate yarn--and make what appears to be yarn weaving.
This cannot well be done with old or worn cloth, because there is not
strength in the very narrow strip to bear the strain of tearing; but
new muslin, almost as light as that which is known as "cheesecloth,"
treated in this way makes a beautiful canvas-like weaving which, if
well coloured, is very attractive for portieres or table covers.
If one has breadths of silk of a quality which can be torn without
raveling, and is sufficiently strong to bear the process, it is
delightful material to work with. If it is of ordinary thickness, a
half-inch in width is quite wide enough, and this will roll or double
into the size of ordinary yarn. If the silk is not strong enough to
tear, it is better to cut the strips upon the bias than straight, and
the same is true of fine woolens, like merinos, cashmeres, or any
worsted goods. There is much more elasticity in them when cut in this
way, and they are more readily crushed together by the warp.
I know a beautiful hanging of crimson silk, or rather of crimson and
garnet--the crimson having been originally a light silk dress dyed to
shade into the garnet. The two coloured rags were sewn together "hit
or miss" fashion and woven upon a bright cardinal-coloured warp. There
was no attempt at border: it was simply a length of vari-coloured
coarse silk weaving, absolutely precious for colour and quality.
Treated in this way, an old silk gown takes on quite a new value and
becomes invested with absorbing interest. Spots and tarnish disappear
in the metempsychosis, or serve for scattered variation, and if the
weaver chooses to still further embellish it with a monogram or design
in cross stitch embroidery, she has acquired a piece of drapery which
might be a valuable inheritance to her children.
Merino or cashmere which has been worn and washed, and is coupled with
other material of harmonizing colour, like pieces of silk or velvet,
is almost as valuable for the making of portieres and table covers as
if it were silk. Indeed, for the latter purpose it is preferable,
being generally washable.
Cotton hangings made in this way are often very desirable. "Summer
muslins" which have served their time as dresses, and are of beautiful
colour and quite strong enough to go into the loom, can be woven with
a warp of gray linen thread into really beautiful hangings, especially
the strong, plain tints--the blues and greens and reds which have
been so much worn of late years. They have the advantage of being
easily washable, and are particularly suitable for country-house
hangings. Even worn sheets and pillow-cases can be dyed to suit the
furnishing of different rooms, and woven with a silk warp of stronger
colour. They should be torn into strips not more than a third of an
inch wide, so that it may crush into a roll not larger than an
ordinary yarn. This will weave into a light, strong cloth, always
interesting because it differs from anything which can be purchased
through ordinary channels. To reappear in the shape of a beautiful and
valuable rag-weaving is the final resurrection of good textiles, when
they have performed their duty in the world and been worn out in its
service.
These home-woven portieres are better without borders, the whole
surface being plain or simply clouded by mixing two tints of the same
colour together. They can be elaborated by adding a hand-made fringe
of folds of cloth sewn into a lattice and finished with tassels. This
is quite a decorative feature, and particularly suitable to the
weaving.
It can easily be understood that a large share of the beauty of making
these household furnishings lies in the colour. If that is good the
rug or portiere or table-cover is beautiful. If it is either dull or
glaring, the pleasure one might have in it is lacking, and it is quite
within one's power to have the article always beautiful.
It must also be remembered, if weaving is taken up as a source of
profit, that _few things which do not please the eye will sell_.
Therefore, if for no other reason, it is well worth while for the
weaver to first study the choice, production and combination of
beautiful colours rather than the fabric of the rug.
I have said, and will reiterate, that for this particular kind of
manufacture--the restoration and adaptation of old goods, and the
strengthening of tints in carpet warps--the yellows and reds of the
Magic or Diamond dyes of commerce are effective and reliable. Indeed,
for new goods cardinal dye is all that could be asked, but when it
comes to the use of dyes for the weaving of textiles and artistic
fabrics, one must resort to dye woods and plants.
[Illustration: KNOTTED WARP FRINGE FOR WOVEN TABLE-COVER]
[Illustration: SEWED RAG FRINGE FOR WOVEN PORTIERE]
FRINGES.
Nothing is more important than the proper _finish_ of the rug, and
this generally consists in a careful going over of the work after it
has come from the loom--the cutting of stray ravelings and sewing of
loose ends, and the knotting of the long warp ends.
It is only a very careless or inexperienced weaver who leaves the warp
ends in the state in which they come from the loom; and indeed they
can be made one of the most effective features of the rug. Simple
knotting of every six threads will make them safe from raveling, and
sometimes the shortness of the warp ends allows no more than this. It
is well worth while, however, to leave six or eight inches to work
into decorative fringes, and these can be made in various ways, of
which illustrations are given.
In the case of decorative fringes there can be double or triple
knotting--straight, or worked into points; braided fringes which have
the merit of both strength and beauty, and are free from the
tangle-trouble of long fringes, and the very effective rag-lattice
finish for portieres and table-covers. Indeed, half the beauty of the
rug may lie in the fringing and finish.
PROFITS.
The pecuniary gain from rag rug weaving may easily be calculated.
First of all comes the cost of the loom, which will be about seventy
dollars. The interest upon this, with necessary repairs, may be
reckoned at about five dollars per year.
To every six-foot rug goes two-thirds of a pound of warp, and this
would amount to from ten-and-a-half to fourteen cents, according to
the rate of purchase. To every such rug must go three pounds of cotton
or two pounds of woolen rags, costing for cotton thirty and for woolen
fifty cents. To the cotton rugs must be added the possible cost of
dye-stuffs, which, again, might cost twenty cents, making cost of
material in either cotton or woolen rugs from sixty to sixty-four
cents.
As far as profit is concerned, if rag rugs are well made they will
sell for two dollars each, if successful in colour, from two dollars
and a half to three and a half, and if beautiful and exceptional in
colour and finish from four to six dollars. But it must be remembered
that this latter price will be for rugs which have artistic value.
Probably the average weaver can safely reckon upon one dollar and
eighty-five cents to two dollars regular profit for the labor of
sewing and filling and weaving and knotting the rugs. It is fair to
accept this as a basis for regular profit, the amount of which must
depend upon facility of production and the ability to produce
unexceptionable things.
But it is not alone pecuniary gain which should be considered. Ability
to produce or create a good thing is in itself a happiness, and the
value of happiness cannot easily be reckoned. The knowledge necessary
to such production is a personal gain. Everything we can do which
people generally cannot or do not do, or which we can do better than
others, helps us to a certain value of ourselves which makes life
valuable. For this reason, then, as well as for the gain of it, a loom
in the house and a knowledge of weaving is an advantage, not only for
the elders, but to the children. If the boys and girls in every
farmhouse were taught to create more things, they would not only be
abler as human beings, but they would not be so ready to run out into
the world in search of interesting occupations. A loom, a
turning-lathe, a work-bench, and a chest of tools, a house-organ or
melodeon, and a neighbourhood library, would keep boys and girls at
home, and make them more valuable citizens when independent living
became a necessity. Everything which broadens the life, which must by
reason of narrow means and fixed occupation be stationary, gives
something of the advantage of travel and contact with the world, and
the adding of profitable outside industries to farmhouse life is an
important step in this direction.