DYEING.
In the early years of the past century a dye-tub was as much a
necessity in every house as a spinning wheel, and the re-establishment
of it in houses where weaving is practised is almost a necessity; in
fact, it would be of far greater use at present than in the days when
it was only used to dye the wool needed for the family knitting and
weaving. All shades of blue, from sky-blue to blue-black, can be dyed
in the indigo-tub; and it has the merit of being a cheap as well as an
almost perfectly fast dye. It could be used for dyeing warps as well
as fillings, and I have before spoken of the difficulty, indeed almost
impossibility, of procuring indigo-dyed carpet yarn.
Blue is perhaps more universally useful than any other colour in rag
rug making, since it is safe for both cotton and wool, and covers a
range from the white rug with blue warp, the blue rug with white
warp, through all varieties of shade to the dark blue, or clouded
blue, or green rug, upon white warp. It can also be used in connection
with yellow or orange, or with copperas or walnut dye, in different
shades of green; and, in short, unless one has exceptional advantages
in buying rags from woolen mills, I can hardly imagine a profitable
industry of rag-weaving established in any farmhouse without the
existence of an indigo dyeing-tub.
RED.
The next important color is red. Red warps can be bought, but the
lighter shades are not even reasonably fast; and indeed, the only sure
way of securing absolutely fast colour in cotton warp is to dye it.
Prepared dyes are somewhat expensive on account of the quantity
required, but there are two colours, Turkey red and cardinal red,
which are extremely good for the purpose. These can be brought at
wholesale from dealers in chemicals and dye-stuffs at much cheaper
rates than by the small paper from the druggist.
COPPERAS.
The ordinary copperas, which can be bought at any country store, gives
a fast nankeen-coloured dye, and this is very useful in making a dull
green by an after-dip in the indigo-tub.
WALNUT.
There are some valuable domestic dyes which are within the reach of
every country dweller, the best and cheapest of which is walnut or
butternut stain. This is made by steeping the bark of the tree or the
shell of the nut until the water is dark with colour. It will give
various shades of yellow, brown, dark brown and green brown, according
to the strength of the decoction or the state of the bark or nut when
used. If the bark of the nut is used when green, the result will be a
yellow brown; and this stain is also valuable in making a green tint
when an after-dip of blue is added. Leaves and tree-bark will give a
brown with a very green tint, and these different shades used in
different rags woven together give a very agreeably clouded effect.
Walnut stain will itself set or fasten some others; for instance,
pokeberry stain, which is a lovely crimson, can be made reasonably
fast by setting it with walnut juice.
RUST-COLOUR.
Iron rust is the most indelible of all stains besides being a most
agreeable yellow, and it is not hard to obtain, as bits of old iron
left standing in water will soon manufacture it. It would be a good
use for old tin saucepans and various other house utensils which have
come to a state of mischievousness instead of usefulness.
GRAY.
Ink gives various shades of gray according to its strength, but it
would be cheaper to purchase it in the form of logwood than as ink.
LOGWOOD CHIPS.
Logwood chips boiled in water give a good yellow brown--deep in
proportion to the strength of the decoction.
YELLOW FROM FUSTIC.
Yellow from fustic requires to be set with alum, and this is more
effectively done if the material to be dyed is soaked in alum water
and dried previous to dyeing. Seven ounces of alum to two quarts of
water is the proper proportion. The fustic chips should be well
soaked, and afterward boiled for a half-hour to extract the dye, which
will be a strong and fast yellow.
ORANGE.
Orange is generally the product of annato, which must be dissolved
with water to which a lump of washing soda has been added. The
material must be soaked in a solution of tin crystals before dipping,
if a pure orange is desired, as without this the color will be a pink
buff--or "nankeen" color.
What I have written on the subject of home dyeing is intended more in
the way of suggestion than direction, as it is simply giving some
results of my own experiments, based upon early familiarity with
natural growths rather than scientific knowledge. I have found the
experiments most interesting, and more than fairly successful, and I
can imagine nothing more fascinating than a persistent search for
natural and permanent dyes.
The Irish homespun friezes, which are so dependable in colour for
out-of-door wear, are invariably dyed with natural stains, procured
from heather roots, mosses, and bog plants of like nature. It must be
remembered that any permanent or indelible stain is a dye, and if boys
and girls who live in the country were set to look for plants
possessing the colour-quality, many new ones might be discovered. I am
told by a Kentucky mountain woman, used to the production of reliable
colour in her excellent weaving, that the ordinary roadside smartweed
gives one of the best of yellows. Indeed, she showed me a blanket with
a yellow border which had been in use for twenty years, and still held
a beautiful lemon yellow. In preparing this, the plant is steeped in
water, and the tint set with alum. Combining this with indigo, or by
an after-dip in indigo-water, one could procure various shades of fast
blue-green, a colour which is hard to get, because most yellows, which
should be one of its preparatory tints, are buff instead of lemon
yellow.
An unlimited supply and large variety of cheap and reliable colour in
rag filling, and a few strong and brilliant colours in warps, are
conditions for success in rag rug weaving, but these colours must be
studiously and carefully combined to produce the best results.
I have said that, as a rule, light warps must go with dark filling and
dark warps with light, and I will add a few general rules which I have
found advantageous in my weaving.
In the first place, in rugs which are largely of one colour, as blue,
or green, or red, or yellow, no effort should be made to secure _even_
dyeing; in fact, the more uneven the colour is the better will be the
rug. Dark and light and spotted colour work into a shaded effect which
is very attractive. The most successful of the simple rugs I possess
is of a cardinal red woven upon a white warp. It was chiefly made of
white rags treated with cardinal red Diamond dye, and was purposely
made as uneven as possible. The border consists of two four-inch
strips of "hit or miss" green, white and red mixed rags, placed four
inches from either end, with an inch stripe of red between, and the
whole finished with a white knotted fringe.
A safe and general rule is that the border stripes should be of the
same colour as the warp--as, for instance, with a red warp a red
striped border--while the centre and ends of the rug might be mixed
rags of all descriptions.
It is also safe to say that in using pure white or pure black in mixed
rags, these two colours, and particularly the white, should appear in
short pieces, as otherwise they give a striped instead of a mottled
effect, and this is objectionable. White is valuable for strong
effects or lines in design; indeed, it is hard to make design
prominent or effective except in white or red.
[Illustration: THE LOIS RUG]
These few general rules as to colour, together with the particular
ones given in other chapters, produce agreeable combinations in very
simple and easy fashion. I have not, perhaps, laid as much stress upon
warp grouping and treatment as is desirable, since quite distinct
effects are produced by these things. Throwing the warp into groups of
three or four threads, leaving small spaces between, produces a sort
of basket-work style; while simply doubling the warp and holding it
with firm tension gives the honeycomb effect of which I have
previously spoken. If the filling is wide and soft, and well pushed
back between each throw of the shuttle, it will bunch up between the
warp threads like a string of beads, and in a dark warp and light
filling a rim of coloured shadow seems to show around each little
prominence. Such rugs are more elastic to the tread than an
even-threaded one, and on the whole may be considered a very desirable
variation.
It is well for the weaver to remember that every successful experiment
puts the manufacture on a higher plane of development and makes it
more valuable as a family industry.